Jump to content

Jomani

Members
  • Posts

    190
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by Jomani

  1. Custom spring hanger bolts arrived from SD Truck Springs so I was able to get the rear springs finished up. Spring perches welded in place and overload springs installed.
  2. What a bummer. At least the damage was minimal. On the bright side - you now know you left enough clearance to get the thing apart if needed. Waiting for the brown truck to arrive will be torture. ?????
  3. Good choice on ditching the fuse. It looks like you have the battery cable well insulated. I am surprised at your choice of battery terminals though. Those cheap clamp-on terminals are a problem waiting to happen - especially under the truck. The link below shows a great system that is foolproof and offers a much better electrical connection. https://youtu.be/SXDkNMDDrBs
  4. I also got the cross member stitched back together and the trans mount fabricated. The new engine placement put the trans mount right at the cross member. I decided to use the cross member - I will reinforce it after I pull the engine back out.
  5. Had another productive sunny day today. I got the engine angle set - 3 degrees on the top of the intake to make up for the rake of the truck. If all goes as planned, the carburetor will sit level. The pinion angle ended up at 6.3 degrees. The driveshaft angle is less than I was hoping for. With a load on the rear, it could very well end up running straight. If that happens, I may have to lift the engine a little.
  6. If my calculations are correct, I should only need about an inch to get sufficient firewall clearance. The nice thing is that I can leave the original radiator placement.
  7. The rain held off long enough today to get back on locating the engine and fabbing up some motor mounts. I picked up a smaller starter from a 94 Dakota to see if it would help with the steering clearance. Turns out that it didn’t help. I decided to push the engine back far enough so the exhaust port for cylinder #7 is behind the steering shaft. This will force me to cut into the firewall - in the end I think it will be better than pushing the engine too far to the right. I ended up moving the engine 1 5/8” to the right as opposed to 3” if I stayed out of the firewall. Front motor mounts finished. I should be able to get the trans mount finished tomorrow.
  8. It ended up raining all weekend so I couldn’t get much done on the truck. I decided to play around with some fenders for the rear. Since I am not exactly sure what will go on the back of the truck yet, I decided to fab up some simple fenders until I make up my mind. I had ordered a couple of trailer fenders to play around with. Couldn’t find anything wide enough so I decided to split one and make my own.
  9. Thanks for the advice. It is always good to hear from someone with real world experience. I kicked around the idea of boxing the frame and talked to a couple of local hot rod builders. In the end both recommended against it. The 360 doesn’t put out much in the way of torque and the truck will only see moderate cruising speeds - mostly in-town driving. As far as balance goes, it will be interesting to see how it comes out in the end. The placement of the gas tank and the fact that I am no lightweight should help balance moving the engine to the right some. From what I have been able to gather, the one ton front suspension is a little stouter than the half ton. I am hoping the forward placement of the engine will offer a better ride ( at least in the front). I still expect it to ride like a lumber wagon.
  10. My plan is to cut down the original piece that I removed from the cross member and weld it back in along with a filler piece making an oblong opening. I just need to get final engine placement and driveline angle finalized first. Young Ed- Yours came out nice - probably a better option than the route I took.
  11. I don’t have personal experience but have been looking at silicone bronze Mig wire to fill in the body seams at the top of the cab. A two pound roll is available online for less than $40 if your welder will take the smaller rolls. I already have a bottle of argon for aluminum. Since it is a softer material, my thought was to weld up the seams then file/sand it down to get the original look. The lower melting temp should help limit metal distortion while providing a good seal. Hopefully, someone with experience using it will respond and let us both know how well it works.
  12. Pushing the envelope is what makes all of this fun. You will have a nice ride when you get it finished. When I put a V6 in my 56 Willys I wanted to get the weight as far back as possible so I opted to cut into the firewall - nothing as drastic as your build but a lot of work nonetheless. On this one, I want to do as little structural fabricating as possible just in case I (or someone else) decide to go back to original drivetrain. I figure one small modification to a cross member won’t be a deal breaker.
  13. Perfect - thanks for the info. It will be great watching you resurrect Big Frank.
  14. It Will be tight, but I think it will work. I will need to get a smaller starter and will need to fabricate an exhaust. I will also have to push the radiator forward and install a pusher fan. All worth the work to save the firewall. I got the the passenger side motor mount fabricated.
  15. The sun was shining today so I decided to drop the engine and transmission in. The plan is to set it far enough forward and to the right to avoid cutting into the firewall while at the same time clearing the steering. I knew I would have to open up the cross member to clear the transmission.
  16. BobB- Revisiting this older post to see if you have made any progress on the one ton. I just finished installing a Dana 60 dually rear end in my 47 and am curious how much wider it is that an original 47 with duals. I believe is it about 4” wider (measuring to the outside of the tires). If you have a chance, can you check to see what yours measures. Mine came original with single wheels but I like the looks of a dually.
  17. I wanted to see what shape the original differential out of my 47 Wd21 was in. Not planning to use it - just curious about the condition. When I pulled the cover, this dropped out. I am guessing it is the drive gear thrust pad. Is it possible someone backed off the adjustment screw thinking it was the drain plug and it fell out? Also, the differential case has these nasty gouges all the way around. Contact with the pinion gear at some point? Anyone see anything like this before?
  18. I couldn’t resist throwing the wheels on. The Dana 60 is a little wider than I wanted - it would be nice to take 2” out of each side but not worth the extra work and cost. Overall, I am pretty happy with the look.
  19. We got a break from the rain today. I was able to get the rear end under the frame and lifted into place. The new spring perches arrived earlier in the week - just sitting on the axel tubes until I can figure out the proper angle. Put the drums on and slid the axels in.
  20. I was able to get the rear brakes installed today. Glad I ordered the brake hardware kit - saved a lot of time cleaning parts. Hopefully we get a break from the rain next weekend so I can hang the rear end and start working on driveline angles.
  21. I ended up sealing everything up and sand blasting, priming and painting the rear end. Once I determine the drive line angle, I will weld on some new spring perches. The Dana 60 axel tubes are a smaller diameter than the original WD tubes. I will probably fabricate some 1/8th inch plate and weld it to the bottom of the tubes so I can use the original hanger brackets.
  22. All of my parts arrived during the week, so I was able to get some work done on the rear end today. All new brake hardware, seals, gaskets, wheel cylinders, etc. Removed the old spring perches, welded up the scars, and ground everything smooth. Original spring perches were set at 8 degrees - seems like a fairly steep angle.
  23. I got back to the rear end today. Couldn’t find any marking grease so I sprayed a little paint on the ring gear to see if I could check the pattern. This is what I ended up with. Hard to tell from the pictures, but the pattern is fairly well centered. Backlash was a little more than I wanted to see. From the research I have done, max backlash for a new setup is .010” for this rear end. Mine measured .012”. Since the ring and pinion contact looks decent, I am going to run it like this. It will probably make a loud clunk when it goes into drive, but I think it has some decent life left in it.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use