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Everything posted by Jomani

  1. I wanted to see what shape the original differential out of my 47 Wd21 was in. Not planning to use it - just curious about the condition. When I pulled the cover, this dropped out. I am guessing it is the drive gear thrust pad. Is it possible someone backed off the adjustment screw thinking it was the drain plug and it fell out? Also, the differential case has these nasty gouges all the way around. Contact with the pinion gear at some point? Anyone see anything like this before?
  2. Finally getting around to starting a build thread for my 1947 Dodge WD-21. First, the name. A few months after starting the tear down on my recently acquired truck, I was diagnosed with coronary artery disease - never any heart problems or symptoms in the past. I am still recovering from quadruple bypass surgery also known as CABG (Coronary Artery Bypass Graph) x4. During my hospital stay, the nurses kept referring to me as the “cabbage times four”. When I finally asked what the heck they were talking about, one of the nurses explained the acronym CABG and said that it was pronounced “cabbage”. Since the primary purpose of this truck will be hauling my butt around, it will be a Cabbage Hauler. Ok, probably more information than most of you care to read about, but it is important to understand why this build took a very interesting change of course - more on that when I get caught up with the build. I have many pictures so I have been working to set up a Photo Bucket account and get them all organized. I will test that out in the next post... Joe
  3. I couldn’t resist throwing the wheels on. The Dana 60 is a little wider than I wanted - it would be nice to take 2” out of each side but not worth the extra work and cost. Overall, I am pretty happy with the look.
  4. We got a break from the rain today. I was able to get the rear end under the frame and lifted into place. The new spring perches arrived earlier in the week - just sitting on the axel tubes until I can figure out the proper angle. Put the drums on and slid the axels in.
  5. I was able to get the rear brakes installed today. Glad I ordered the brake hardware kit - saved a lot of time cleaning parts. Hopefully we get a break from the rain next weekend so I can hang the rear end and start working on driveline angles.
  6. I ended up sealing everything up and sand blasting, priming and painting the rear end. Once I determine the drive line angle, I will weld on some new spring perches. The Dana 60 axel tubes are a smaller diameter than the original WD tubes. I will probably fabricate some 1/8th inch plate and weld it to the bottom of the tubes so I can use the original hanger brackets.
  7. All of my parts arrived during the week, so I was able to get some work done on the rear end today. All new brake hardware, seals, gaskets, wheel cylinders, etc. Removed the old spring perches, welded up the scars, and ground everything smooth. Original spring perches were set at 8 degrees - seems like a fairly steep angle.
  8. I got back to the rear end today. Couldn’t find any marking grease so I sprayed a little paint on the ring gear to see if I could check the pattern. This is what I ended up with. Hard to tell from the pictures, but the pattern is fairly well centered. Backlash was a little more than I wanted to see. From the research I have done, max backlash for a new setup is .010” for this rear end. Mine measured .012”. Since the ring and pinion contact looks decent, I am going to run it like this. It will probably make a loud clunk when it goes into drive, but I think it has some decent life left in it.
  9. Setting up a rear end is probably one of my least favorite things to do - probably because I have only done a couple. I wonder if what you are seeing is a shadow. I gave it a quick look during disassembly and couldn’t see a wear pattern. I need to get some marking compound and check the contact. I did find another picture that I took that might offer a slightly better view. I also need to pull out the dial indicator and check backlash. Feels a little loose but specs call for .002-.009” (relatively broad range). With 120,000 miles pushing a heavy motor home, I would expect to see more wear than I am.
  10. The rain came back so I spent the afternoon pulling the Dana 60 apart. As with everything that came off the old motor home, I was very happy to see the condition of the rear end. I will probably only replace seals and and wheel cylinders.
  11. I was able to hang the front axel on the frame today. Not sure I like the way the front hanger bushings fit - there seems to be a lot of movement in the hangers. All the spring packs went together with liners. A little more work, but I really like the way they came together.
  12. I had a hard time finding someone local who could/would fit the kingpin bushings. The first guy I tried ended up messing up the bushings - didn’t get the reamer properly aligned. I contacted Gary at Roberts Motor Parts and he hooked me up with a spare set of bushings without having to buy another kit. This time I decided to fit them myself. I turned an aluminum shaft down so that it easily slid through the bushings. I cut a groove the length of the shaft and slid a half sheet of 320 grit sand paper into the groove. Wrapping the paper around the shaft, I made a flap disk that slid through both bushings at the same time. I was able to slowly work the bushings to just over a .001” fit. Very happy with the fit and the way everything went together.
  13. It rained on and off all day so I spent the day assembling the front axel. Got the king pins fitted and installed, spring packs assembled with liners, and new tie rod ends. All new bushings and spring hardware - ready to hang back on the frame.
  14. Jomani

    "Farmer fixes"

    Hole in the bottom of the oil pan repaired with silicone.
  15. Looking good. How did the weld through primer work for you? I have been tempted, but never tried it.
  16. I have been pleasantly surprised by this one. The deeper I get into it, the more I think it needs to go back 100% original. Unfortunately, I already blew a big chunk of my budget on the drive train. With the exception of one modification for the transmission tunnel, I plan to leave the frame as unmolested as possible. My first build was back in the 70s when I lived in Southern Minnesota. 51 Ford F1 covered in black primer. I fought the rust on that truck for the better part of a year. Hat’s off to you guys saving these gems back in the rust belt 👍
  17. The steering box is back on the frame. It will come back off to put the cab back on, just mocking everything up to see how for to the right the engine will have to go.
  18. I was able to get the steering box cleaned up and reassembled. To ensure that all the abrasive media is completely removed from parts, they always get a bath in soapy water and throughly blown out. Everything went together nicely - followed the process that is detailed on a number of threads here for making the final adjustments.
  19. I was able to make a little more progress on the build yesterday. Just about finished media blasting parts. Sure makes it nice to be able to load the blast cabinet up with a bunch of parts and blast for hours without stopping.
  20. Jomani

    Motor and tranny swap

    I am knee deep into putting a 360 with 727 automatic in my 47 one ton WD21 (Cabbage Hauler). I have read a lot of different forums and articles and I can tell you firsthand that it isn’t any “easy” upgrade. I probably went a little overboard with my build - took it down to the bare frame and just started back together this last weekend. Because the starter on a 360 is on the driver’s side, it interferes with the steering. That is one reason some opt for a small block Chevy. I don’t want to change the steering, so I will offset the engine to the passenger side. Another consideration is the fact that you will lose the factory parking brake. For me, the easiest solution for that was to change out the rear differential. I found a doner 1974 Dodge Motor Home and used the engine, trans and Dana 60 rear differential from it. Without that, the cost would have been too much for me. Fabrication will include; motor mounts, trans mount, modifying the first cross member to accommodate the engine shift to the right, hanging brake pedal, parking brake, shifter, new spring perches and spring hangers for rear, possibly narrow the Dana 60 (I will wait to see what it looks like first), push the radiator forward to avoid cutting into the firewall (if at all possible), and minor brackets as required. This is all fairly straightforward stuff but will require welding, cutting, bending, etc.
  21. I pulled the steering box apart today and ran into something very unexpected. After determining that I have the second generation steering box for the “W” series, I expected to see this steering gear shaft (#8). Instead I found this. Seems to be a much better design. Is it possible this is Power Wagon? Can’t find anything like it in my W Series parts or service manuals.
  22. Generally only out front on Saturdays. Definately have some understanding neighbors. Most of them are curious and stop in to see how things are progressing.
  23. I hit a big milestone today. I actually started going back together with the truck. I got the king pin bushings pressed into the spindles - ready for the machine shop to ream to size. I got one of the rear spring packs back together and the bushings pressed in. Actually hung the springs - great to see it going back together. I did end up going with the liner between the springs. It added about a half inch to the total spring pack height. I removed two springs hoping for a little better ride - the extra height from the liner should keep the overall height about the same.
  24. After the acid wash, I hit the whole frame with scotch bright pads and lacquer thinner. A final wipe down with lacquer thinner and the epoxy primer went on. The clouds are rolling in - hopefully the rain holds off until the primer dries.

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