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Jomani last won the day on November 4

Jomani had the most liked content!

About Jomani

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Santa Maria, Ca
  • Interests
    Wood working, metal working, fixing old stuff.
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Dodge 1 ton WD-21, 1956 Willys CJ5

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I enjoy working on older vehicles - mechanical and metal work
  • Occupation
    Supervisor of Vocational Instruction (Vice Principal)


  • Location
    Santa Maria Ca.
  • Interests
    Woodworking, project vehicles

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  1. Jomani

    Oil Pan Installation

    I worked as a field service diesel mechanic a long time ago. For ease of future service, my rule of thumb was to never use any type of sealant on the engine side of anything. It is much easier to scrape the old gasket off the part (sitting on the back of my truck) than the engine while it is still in the vehicle. The other reason I do it that way - if you look at the most stable surface, it should be the machined surface on the engine block. Unless it has defects, it most likely won’t be the cause of any leaks. The oil pan on the other hand will flex and bend if/when the bolts are over tightened - that would be the surface causing the leaks. Every Engine has specific places where leaks are more of a potential - generally where joints are created in the gasket material. Those are the only places where I would use a small amount of silicone - just my opinion of course.
  2. Jomani

    Hound dog hauler

    Since you have easy access and talked about changing out the valve cover gaskets, why not remove the front cover, watch the valve movement while turning the engine over by hand - you should see the exhaust valve open during the exhaust cycle (piston traveling up) then the intake valve open during the intake cycle (piston traveling down). After the intake valve closes, turn the crankshaft until the timing marks align to get TDC on cylinder #1. Doing it that way avoids any question. As far as trying to get the timing exact, that would be very hard to do. It should start and run at TDC.
  3. Jomani

    Droopy door handle

    My 47 has the same problem. I haven’t pulled the latch assembly apart yet so I am not sure what to expect when I get in there. I did come across these pictures (I am a visual guy) that helped me understand how it works. This is 48-49, but I have to believe yours has to be similar.
  4. Thanks DJ. I appreciate the heads up. This set only came with single springs with the flat coil inside. The instructions talked about only using one spring during break-in but I think they include that verbiage with all of their products. My understanding is that the flat coil doesn’t count as a spring - they didn’t seem to want to come out. Someone please correct me if I am wrong - the last “performance cam” I installed was in the early 80s when things were very different. I have read some real horror stories about their more radical cams but I think this one is fairly mild. I will definitely use the break-in oil that they recommend and change after the initial 20-30 minute run. That is the reason for the engine run stand - I want to make sure all goes well before it gets set in the truck.
  5. Front looks original 1 ton 6 lug wheel. Rear axle/duallies look newer. Hard to tell from the pics, but the steering looks like it has been changed. I would love to see more pics of the drive train and steering. Appears to be very close to what I am doing with my 47 - only sticking with Mopar. Looks like a great project.
  6. Sounds like a fun project. Where are the pictures? Keep in mind that the automatic transmission will also be longer and taller than the original drive train. The 4.0L has a rear sump oil pan which is perfect but will also limit how far forward you can move the engine. It is also much taller than the Flathead. If it were me, I would mock up the engine and trans in the frame and get some good measurements before cutting into the firewall. The 4.0L engine is probably one of the best things that came out of AMC (great torque) but certainly not plug and play in your application.
  7. I got the Competition Cam kit. Supposed to offer relatively high torque in the lower rpm range. COMP Cams High Energy 260H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft Complete Kit Lift: .440" /.440" Duration: 260°/260° RPM Range: 1200-5200
  8. Got back to the engine rebuild today. The cam kit came with new springs, seals and retainers. Since the heads were in great shape, I decided to hand lap the valves just to make sure that there was no pitting When I tried to reinstall the springs, I discovered that my old valve spring compressor wasn’t going to make it. The new cam came with heavier springs and it couldn’t handle it. I tried to find a heavy duty spring compressor - not going to happen on a Sunday. I decided to get creative. Several years ago I bought a huge lot of heavy duty c-clamps. I still had some of the smaller clamps laying around, so I decided to give it a shot. A little cutting and it was time to give it a shot. Worked like a charm. Sometimes you just have to get creative. I was able to get the heads assembled and back on the engine. Aluminum intake, water pump, and fuel pump should be here this week. Next project will be to build an engine run stand. Hopefully I can get it running in a couple of weeks.
  9. I think you summed up the two tone options perfectly - something I hadn’t thought about. I plan to go with the Dana 70 dually reared from the motor home so the rear will be very wide. By painting the lower half of the grill to match the fenders, it should give it a wider appearance in the front. I haven’t decided on the bed yet. Since this was originally a pickup and the running boards go all the way back, I may build some fenders that tie into the running boards and keep the bed narrow (between the wheels). I have been looking at tow trucks from that era - if I can find a period tow truck bed, I could go that route.
  10. I don’t know the early history of this truck. I can trace it back two owners and have reason to believe it received an armature restoration and probably engine swap back in the 80’s. The overload springs are definitely an add-on but appear to be original to the truck - I would guess either a factory option or dealer install (just a guess on my part). There is no backup alarm - a taillight turned sideways. The build is going well. I started back to work a couple weeks ago so progress is slow but steady. I plan to finish the engine this weekend.
  11. Jomani

    New member new project

    The new 5.7 takes up a lot of real estate and requires a lot of technology and fabrication. I am in the process of killing the originality of my 47 by dropping in a 360 with automatic. Everytime I work on it, I wonder if that was the right decision. These things are so cool to drive with the original running gear.
  12. Nice truck. That is very close to what I was imagining - I was thinking about adding a little green to the white but a little nervous about the results - paint is ridiculously expensive and I can’t afford to make too many mistakes. I also thought long about the color I wanted on the lower half of the grill. Seeing these pictures now makes me wonder about that decision... Thanks for sharing the pictures.
  13. Ok -the grill is assembled again. Definitely prefer this green. This paint is really metallic but laid down very nicely for a single stage paint.
  14. Jomani

    ANSWERED Long block engine number

    Could be carbon buildup. You might need to try poking with something a little harder. Just be careful. On top dead center, the piston is very close.
  15. Jomani

    How many are using gas?

    Check CL for used bottles. I have been able to pick up a half dozen bottles for Mig and oxy/acetylene. The first time I get them filled, I have to pay for hydro test (usually $15 or $20 bucks) then exchange every time. One local vendor will let me exchange between oxygen, argon, and 75/25 bottles with no additional charge. I use 75/25 mix for general welding and straight argon for aluminum. When I first bought a Mig Welder, I didn’t think I could justify the extra cost of gas and used strictly flux core wire. Never could get a good looking bead and had lots of splatter. I always thought it was the welder (me or the machine). Took a welding class at the local community college, switched to gas on my personal welder and have never touched flux core wire again. Personally, I wouldn’t buy the 40 cf bottle. Mine are all 125/130 cf (the largest “personal” bottle). I don’t do a lot of welding but still go through 2 or 3 bottles per year. If you have to drive 30 miles to exchange, the extra cost of the larger bottle would pay for itself in no time.

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