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Andrew50

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About Andrew50

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge B-2 Stepside Pickup

Converted

  • Location
    Greenwood
  • Interests
    Wrenching on old vehicles, bicycle riding, shooting

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  • Occupation
    Retired

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  1. What kind of gasoline should this truck use? I have access to ethonol free 87 octane and 93 octane.
  2. I received this horn today in the mail. It is better than it looks and should clean up nicely. I made an offer and bought for less than the asking amount, but still kinda pricey. If it will not honk is the noise generating part replaceable? Maybe this is it: https://dcmclassics.com/home/814-b-781-horn-replacement-6v-or-12v.html?search_query=Horn&results=5
  3. Good points DJ194850. This truck is already converted to 12v but I have to be careful nonetheless. I have received the new fuel tank and gauge sender unit. How can I use the sender unit to test the gauge that hasn't been working? If I connect 6 volts direct to the gauge's two connectors will it read full? If I connect 12 volts direct will it read full and/or will it go up in a sparks and a puff of smoke? If I then wire in series the sender unit and then cycle the float will the gauge needle move accordingly? How do I tell which wire on the back is ground? Did someone say the 6v was positive ground?
  4. I am trying to achieve original appearance and sound. The horns on the truck do work. Not absolute to change them out but would like to.
  5. Is $66 a fair price for this horn? I can clean and paint but it ultimately has to work. I see on line instructions to restore similar horns. That 12v to 6v converter is noted to buy later if needed. I'll check the ohm reading of the fuel gauge. Thanks for all the help.
  6. So might this horn be correct? May not be the best choice considering condition. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-Dodge-Pickup-Truck-Horn-The-Electric-Auto-lite-Co-6-volt-Rat-Rod/253353310660?hash=item3afd08b9c4:g:PlMAAOSwnTdaPp4f&vxp=mtr
  7. Thanks Merle. But that video makes it look easier than really is. It seems to me. I'll spray them down with PB Blaster and let 'em sit for a while. Edit three hours later: After letting the penetrating oil soak I maxed the air on my impact wrench and got the top one out. I was able to pull the shackle from the lower bushing because of its excessive wear. Then worked with and got that bushing out too. So now I know I can do it and will order the needed parts. I hope the front pin and bushing are not too difficult.
  8. So how does one get these front suspension U-Joint bushings out? My impact wrench barely moves the lower one and the upper one just laughs at the impact. Saw through the U-Joint then press out the bushing? I am hoping to do this without removing the leaf spring from the straight axle. Soak them with some PB Blaster? Or is it worth the effort to replace?
  9. Thank you for the photo of the horn. Fuel gauge seems like it is going to be a bear to get going. 😕
  10. How many quarts does this engine require? How do I tell which flathead six engine size this is?
  11. I'll check out the Baldwin JC405 filter. It does state to us "JC" filter and gasket on the lid. Today I dropped the fuel tank and removed the fuel sending unit. I plan to replace both. Is there a specific fuel sending unit I should use with the 6-to-12 converted system? I'll keep an eye open for a horn. Is there any way to rebuild them for 12 volt application? Thank you, Andrew
  12. Is a horn like this correct for this truck? https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Volt-Vintage-Horn-40s-50s-60s-Dodge-Chevy-Ford-Truck-Car-Works-Great-Jeep/263569749426?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3Dc1091216bf6a41ab8dba72335b7927cc%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D263581383890%26itm%3D263569749426&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042
  13. Hello. I've taken on a project to tune and repair the truck in the subject line. This truck has very nice green/black paint and a very nice interior. My mission is to check and repair as needed. These are noted initially: Get the fuel gauge workingTune up engine including new plugs and maybe a points conversionTighten the steering (as much as possible) Check the brakes for any needed repairs. Per the attached picture it seems the brakes may be ok. Spending some time with it I have these questions: I am finding this truck in pretty good shape. The king pins allow just a little slop of the wheels when off the ground. Measured maybe .100" at the top of the tires. I doubt new kingpins will reduce this much. The tie rod ends and all are tight. The air cleaner element visually looks pretty clean, I will replace the oil in the reservoir. Any specific oil that should be used?Both ends of the front leaf spring supports need new bushings. I figured they allowing the springs to slop around negatively affecting steering.I found about 15 psi in the front tires with a large patch of rubber on the ground. With the tire max pressure at 65 I inflated the front to 50 and rear to 40. This should reduce steering effort.I tightened the steering box nut one turn. With the wheels off the ground there is no slop when changing directions. I don't want to over tighten this adjustment.I drained the oil. What oil and how many quarts for this truck? I found a metal oil filter in the filter canister that I suspect is incorrect as it is not tall enough to contact the upper clamping portion of the canister. It just sits there with no clamping pressure. I don't think the Fram PB 1/2P would fit properly. I turkey basted the remaining oil from the filter canister. Should this have one of the sock type filters?How do I adjust the timing? The book says so many degrees from cylinder #6. I will replace the plugs and he gave the go-ahead to put an electronic points conversion in the distributor. Don't know if I will or not. What do you guys think? How might I firm up the shifter linkage? Looking from below it seems in pretty good shape. I suspect the fuel gauge is not connected. Will check that out. While the underside of the truck is mostly rust free, just some occasional surface rust, the fuel tank has surface rust and an obvious leakage repair. Some kind of epoxy applied across the bottom surface. I plan to replace the tank and the gauge sending unit. This truck is 12v converted, does this affect the function of the fuel gauge? Fortunately he does have a Shop Manual B-2 Series with very good instructions even to the details of rebuilding the transmission. Fortunately rebuilding the tranny isn't needed. I initially posted questions in The Garage Journal. They were helpful but I understand this forum us where the collection of experts reside. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=390297 If allowed I'll post some photos on here a little later today. I'm building a basket of parts with these folks. https://dcmclassics.com/ Thanks in advance for your help. Andrew
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