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Andrew50

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About Andrew50

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South East of Due West, West of Ninety Six in Greenwood, SC
  • Interests
    Old cars and trucks
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge B2B Stepside Pickup

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  • Biography
    Tinkerer
  • Occupation
    Retired

Converted

  • Location
    Greenwood
  • Interests
    Wrenching on old vehicles, bicycle riding, shooting

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  1. So I used the DCM fuel sender unit and wired a 12v to 6v diode inline to the gauge. I mock wired the sender unit before install and watched the gauge hand sweep from empty to full when I moved the float arm. Now I have it all assembled and with ten gallons of gasoline it reads barely 1/4 full. I suspect the new DCM fuel tank is 20 gallons or less so it should be reading at least 1/2 full. I did a visual check of the float arm length before install and was satisfied it would reach the bottom of the tank when empty, but maybe the arm length needs checked, which means dropping the tank. Thoughts? Or maybe like FlashBuddy I need to drive it down a dirt road. πŸ˜‰
  2. Well I got it all sorted out and today took the truck for a drive. The brakes feel good and it stops straight. I am satisfied with them. The engine valves are chattering and demand my attention. I will again view the video posted earlier and will tackle them. This truck has front turn signals but no rear turn signals. There is a breakdown in the wiring somewhere. No brake lights either and no obvious wires to connect to the master cylinder brake switch. The wiring overall looks pretty bad. Now looking at the possibility of replacing the entire wiring harness. Any of you done this? I am considering purchasing from DCM https://dcmclassics.com/electrical/163-le-104-complete-wiring-harness.html?search_query=wiring+harness&results=4
  3. What are the torque specs for the castle nut securing the rear drum to the tapered axle? Purchased the spare tire hanger. How does this install? https://dcmclassics.com/body-parts/475-b-606-spare-tire-carrier-15-16-20-wheels.html
  4. Aren't they beautiful?
  5. That $12 spent at Harbor Freight for the brake spring tool was money well spent. I cannot imagine being strong enough to string them across with channel locks. Got all the shoes set with the drums and then bled the brakes. Everything went well except for the brake indicator switch attached to the front of the master cylinder that leaks around the electrical connect pins. 😨 Thankfully Steve at DCM Classics is sending a replacement free of charge. Next I will again align the shoes with the drums then tighten and secure the castle nuts with cotter pins. How much drag should the shoes have against the drums?
  6. Shouldn't the drum surface have some roughness to help bed the shoes? I know it helps to have the flywheel a little rough to bed in a new disc. I've gotten my hands on a pair of drum spring pliers. Even with them these springs have a lot of tension and they are difficult to get installed.
  7. In that picture it is hard to see but I did mask off the shoe contact surfaces. They are all smooth surfaced and I've been considering how I might rough them up a little bit. I see you are in Greer. Howdy neighbor!
  8. Adding another photo
  9. The backing plates and drums have been de-greased, paint remover applied, sand blasted and painted. They are now reassembled with the new shoes, wheel cylinders and front springs. The new brake lines, hard and flex, are installed. I need to get the rear springs installed. What is the secret to accomplishing this? The front I gripped the spring arm with a vise grip and used a pry bar supported by a lower eccentric shoe bolt. The rear springs seem to be more difficult to install. The front center backing plates were replaced and new felt seals added. Because I didn't have the correct rivets I tapped the plate holes to 10-32 and used screws to secure them. You can see the screw heads below. After installing the rear springs and the line connecting the two rear cylinders I will turn my attention to setting the shoes to the drum. Then I will need to bleed out the system.
  10. The shoes in the picture were once soaked in brake fluid and replacements are ordered. I hope the new shoes closely match the drum radius. I am thinking this setup will work pretty well. I made it adjustable to utilize on the back's 11" brakes.
  11. With some parts in the misc bin I made this to dial in the new shoes. The bearing is from a previous timing belt replacement. Sometimes being a pack rat does pay off.
  12. Your concerns are noted. I am ordering new shoes front and rear. That puts the brakes on using that pot. πŸ™‚
  13. Jerry, good info, thank you. I can make a variation of one of those. Larry, thank you. Since these have material remaining I'll do some more research and decide if these can be salvaged.
  14. Well the replacement puller arms delivered today. I ground clearance to allow radius support and applied pressure. With some big hammer application, impact wrench and whacking the end of the puller shaft the drum popped loose. I then turned my attention the other side and after applying the same it too popped loose. ☺️ There is no noticeable ridge from shoe/drum wear but there is a lot of brake fluid contamination. After being soaked in brake fluid for an extended period are the shoes toast? Or can they be degreased and cleaned up? I figured I might just replace them. Is there anyone out there who will let me lease the tool to correctly set the shoes? Now let's discuss the master cylinder. πŸ˜– With the brake line attached as pictured above it is impossible to thread it through the framework and parts of the truck to install. The steering box is in the way. So I removed the bellow and clevis hardware and got it installed. Then I couldn't get the bellow reinstalled on the back of the master cylinder. Worked with it for more than an hour. There is limited space and much grease and dirt on the underside of the truck. So the master cylinder had to come back out for reinstall of the bellow. In doing so I spilled most of the fluid, a lot of it on me and the remainder on the floor. 😞 Net result I lost my fluid and bench bleed. So I emptied out the fluid, removed the brake line, reapplied the bellow and reinstalled the master cylinder. Then screwed the clevis pin into the back and reinstalled the brake line. I'll have to gently bleed the master cylinder after I get it all back together. Whoever "restored" this truck did a great job on the sheet metal and interior but just painted black over everything underneath. I can scrape 68 years of grease off surfaces and I often find surface rust under washers and other areas of the frame and suspension. I wish I had the space, time and equipment to remove the body and completely restore the frame.
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