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51_Meadowbrook

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Rhode Island
  • Interests
    Learning about how cars work so I can fix them back to the way they were when new.
  • My Project Cars
    1951 Dodge Meadowbrook
    1952 Cadillac Fleetwood Series 75

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  • Location
    Rhode Island
  • Interests
    Car Restoration

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  1. Removing the studs revealed two pieces. Can I use a standard drum and the wheel studs into this hub or will the new drum be too shallow due to the indentations the older drum had which seem to push the drum back further? Do not use this picture as reference to the indentation, use the original one. Since I didn’t care about this drum since it couldn’t be turned I did not make sure to keep its structural shape when I was removing the studs.
  2. Oh I didn’t even think of the threads. The drums and hubs are identical though, correct?
  3. Upon closer look it looks like it might just be held together by the studs.
  4. The ones I took off are riveted as well. I thought about removing the rivets and attaching a new standard 11” drum on it but the drum turned said he wasn’t sure they would sit right since the original drums are recessed from the riveted section.
  5. Why are the left and right different part numbers? Wouldn’t they be the same drum? What’s different about them?
  6. I don’t have an interchange book and it’s leading to my downfall. I thought I was just adjusting the brakes but I saw the front shoes full of brake fluid. So I took the front drums off and decided to have them turned. Since I was doing the front cylinders I decided to go to the back and rebuild them. I took the rear drums off and brought all four to get turned. The guy said did the front drums and said I need new bearings and races but wouldn’t do the rear. He said they were so out of round he couldn’t get them to come back. So now I’m stuck with $450 per drum unless I can find some used drums. My issue is I don’t know which cars used 11” drums with the hub attached to it. They are 11x2.25. It’s my understanding that Plymouth had this type but used 10” drums. Any ideas on which cars used that style brake drums and where I might find some used ones?
  7. I had been enjoying my ‘51 Meadowbrook and took off from a red light. First gear was fine, second gear started making some rattling, then third gear was rattling so bad I thought I was going to lose my driveshaft. I got it home and checked and the driveshaft is fine. The u-joints seem solid. There is some play in the rear end. I topped off the differential and left the house and it started rattling bad in second too. After about a month of not driving it I took it out tonight around the block. Second gear sounded quieter but still rattling and third gear was rattling. I can’t seem to figure out what it is. It’s only when I accelerate. If I am coasting it doesn’t make the noise. If I push the clutch when coasting it doesn’t make the noise. But as soon as I press the accelerator it starts rattling again. There is no rattling in reverse. I see no signs of anything scraping. I checked the transmission mounts and they are tight. The transmission is a 3 speed manual fluid drive, not the gyro-magic electronic shift. Any suggestions?
  8. That’s the problem, when I jump the terminals I get spark at the plugs. If I just turn the key to START the starter spins but no spark. I can have it soon all day by turning the key and get nowhere. But if I run a wire from the IGN to ST terminal it fires up immediately.
  9. I have had quite a tough time with my '51 Meadowbrook over this past year. The latest of issues started with a faulty ignition switch; it would shut off if you hit a bump and would have to jiggle the key to get it to gain continuity again. It's a strange one that has three terminals, listed as ST, ACC, AM, and a central wire that is fixed to it under a metal sheathing that goes through the firewall and attaches to the horn relay. The switch I bought was from a '50 Coronet and has four terminals, listed ST, ACC, IGN, BATT. I'm not sure what the AM standards for but it had one wire attached to it. The ST had one wire attached to it. The ACC had the rest of the wires, such as the radio and heater motor, attached to it. So I connected the ST wire to the ST terminal of the new switch, the AM wire the ACC terminal, the set of wires from the ACC in the old switch to the IGN terminal in the new switch, and I ran a wire from the BATT terminal to the outside of the firewall to the horn relay. I did this based on position of the wires on the switch. Well that didn't work as it shot my Ammeter down to -50. So I found that the wire that is attached to the ACC wire had current in it and connected it to the BATT terminal. From there that left the wire on the ST, the wire on the BATT, the wire going to the horn relay on the ACC, and the set of wires on the IGN. I turned the key and the starter turned and turned but would not fire up. I found that the only way it will fire up, and it fires up immediately, is if I turn the key to ON and connect a wire from the IGN to the ST. I can't understand why it will not fire is I turn the to the START position. I also found out that if the engine is running and I turn the key from ON to ACC the engine continues to run. What am I messing up, or is this switch faulty as well? And through my playing with this switch I fried the LED flasher relay so I need to replace it.
  10. Being unable to make the lights any brighter than they were, which probably was right for the car, I converted them to LED. I picked a bulb that was about the same brightness for both dim and bright filaments. The LED is very distinct on the bright light. You can tell I’m hitting the brake and when the directional is on. And the bonus is that it barely draws on the battery. Since I bought the taillights I bought the front directionals and the flasher. They work beautifully now.
  11. This may not be the right spot for this post but here goes. It’s time for me to replace the tires on my cars and the old debate pops up. Which tire size should I get? My ‘51 Dodge Meadowbrook originally had 7.10-15 bias tires on it. The guy I bought it from out 225/75/15 on it. So when I changed them I put them on too. As I’m looking at different conversion charts they are saying 215/75/15 or 225/70/15. Being a little green on tires I’m not sure exactly what makes one tire better or worse than the other. I understand the fundamentals of the tire sizes but not necessarily the functional difference between them. Anyone willing to shed some light and their thoughts on this would be great. Does one provide a better comfort when riding down the road than the other?
  12. John I don’t know if this help but they have a FAQ section on their website.
  13. Vacuum leaks are a monster. They can cause erratic issues. I may be way off but I would think that if the vacuum is bouncing all over it would be pulling the distributor really strong and letting it go back to idle position and bounce back and forth between.
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