Jump to content

Richard Cope

Members
  • Posts

    198
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Richard Cope

  1. 1939 Plymouth owners may want to check out the following video on UTube " The birth of a new car 1939 Plymouth assembly line XD14774" with audio
  2. I found a company that can convert the film to a digital format. It is ScanCafe (866-234-3909), 7998 Centerpoint Drive, Suite 600, Indianapolis, In. 46256. As I understand it takes a few weeks, and they charge by the foot and what type of media want it stored on.
  3. Hi Mark, I have been traveling and on my cell phone don't get the full form screen, didn't see alerts for messages. However returned today and can't find any messages from you, kindly send again. I have heard there was a small shop near me that used to transfer film, going to go this week to see if they are still in business. Hopefully will be able to transfer the film to flash sticks. Regards Richard
  4. Purchased an advertising film strip for a 1939 Plymouth. Looks to be in good shape, is around 34 mm in width and rolled in a small original metal container. Looking to get it converted to a modern media, if I can't get it done locally does anyone know of a shop that does these conversions? Also does anyone know if these film strips included sound? Regards, Richard
  5. Thanks for the tip Loren, will give it a try. Have two injector plates, will be using one and a friend using the other. Width of plates are .25 in. injector holes are very small, was going to measure however have wires in center of holes, Either plate should work, however one has a smaller circumference where the line from the bottle connects, this may help with clearance. Going to have to use longer studs to compensate for the plate. The top has a regulating valve / or can be used to shut off. Thinking of using a small flow, with perhaps every other tank of gas. My heater has two mounting bolts that come through the firewall enough that a plate can be added, will mount the jar on that plate.
  6. If I had the space, would be tempting to get a price. Looks like it is mostly there, with a lot of surface rust. The frames of the 39 convertibles were unique, with a second frame bolted on top of the main frame under the passenger area.
  7. Hi Polsonator2, Appreciate if you could post a photo of your injector plate with the carburetor, want to ensure that I have the correct plate. Suspect that I am getting or have gotten gasoline with excess ethanol. The summer that was getting tapping from the valves, also went through three mechanical fuel pumps. All of the pumps were suppose to be alcohol resistant, however when disassembled the diaphragms were sticky & gummy. Tried different gas stations and neutralizers however didn't know if it works until too late and AAA is bringing car back. Switched to an electric fuel pump and that issue solved.
  8. I'm not affiliated in any way with either Ampco or MMO or promoting their products. I seen where probably 40 to 50 year old NOS Ampco lubricating units were being sold and thought would pass on. I mentioned my positive experience by adding MMO in the gas tank, however this was my personal experience and not intended to promote the product. Perhaps others have had negative experiences. The ethanol gasoline we are using may be different along with the selected motor oils. Based on everyone's own experiences either add or don't add additives, use or don't use a lubricator, I recommend use what works best in your particular car. There are enough products on the market and custom blends that one shoe doesn't have to fit all.
  9. Couple of weeks ago went to a cruise night, granted the entrance to the parking area was on a slope and as I turned in the car was coasting with the engine idling. Most of the cars at the show were muscle or street rods. Later when I opened the hood, several individuals came over, they said that they expected to see that it had been converted to electric as they didn't hear the engine when I turned in. The engine idles quiet, if I get too much MMO in the gas tank will get a puff of smoke when I pull out
  10. I purchased one & received it today, It is NOS, enclosed paperwork is yellow with age. The container is glass unlike the one in the photo. When get an opportunity will install and test out. Last year started getting a slight valve ping, a theory was that the ethanol gasoline was cleaning the lubricant from the valve guides. Added a few ounces of MMO in the gas tank and the ping stopped shortly after & hasn't came back. Have been occasionally adding a few ounces of MMO since. The engine has about 6,500 miles since a rebuild done around 20 years ago, have been using 30 wt HD oil. The unit has a control valve, will see how low can adjust the flow to. If it adds too much will shut it off and continue occasionally add to the gas tank. Will be a conversation piece.
  11. Hi MajD Welcome to the forum, nice to hear of another 39 Ply., like to see photos. I also have a 39 Ply. P8, believe the drums were black but can't be sure. They aren't going to be visible when the wheels are on. Originally put a lot of effort in trying to keep mine as close to stock as possible, color of steering column, nickel plating interior parts, upholstery, window glass date coding, etc. Later made some modifications that can be reversed for safety and reliability. As your restoration progresses and you have questions keep in touch. Richard Cope
  12. For those that use Marvel Mystery Oil in their gasoline, came across new old stock lubricators that are being sold by Ampco, see attached. Was told that they are from the 50's era. The injector plates are listed by year / manufacturer and sell for and additional $25 or so. I use MMO in my 39 occasionally, seems to run quieter, considering installing one of the lubricators.
  13. Anyone using Evans Waterless? My engine was rebuilt 20 plus years ago and that is the only antifreeze that has been used. It is pricy however didn't change it until recently when the radiator was changed (was starting to get hairline cracks), at that time sent a sample to Evans and they did a chemical assay and indicated that it was still good. Eliminates the concern of rust (was particularly concerned with the distribution tube). It has a high boiling point so don't get boil overs. Looked inside the head when changing the radiator, looked like the day it was assembled. Don't have a baseline to compare the engine temp to, however Evans indicates this it normal for it to run a little hotter as more heat is being removed. Works good for me. Richard
  14. Hi Chris, I have a 39 Ply, last summer the honey comb radiator started leaking. Took the radiator to Custom Auto Radiator, Lacey, N.J. (609-242-9700). The shop specializes is brass radiators. They disassembled, used the original top, bottom and sides & made up a new more efficient brass core. The top was originally painted, shop ask if I wanted it polished for a nominal fee. I was very satisfied with the constructions / soldering and the polishing was more than expected. The new core isn't honeycomb. While it was apart, I had another shop powder coat the side braces, however believe Custom Auto Radiator can also do. On the bottom, added a fitting so a temperature probe could be added. When I had the radiator off, added a pusher fan which also purchased from the shop. The fan isn't noticeable unless one looks through the grill, or can hear the motor running. Don't plan on using the fan all of the time, however on those summer days when the temp is in the high 90's and stuck in traffic takes some stress away. If you would like to see photo, let me know. Richard
  15. Thank everyone for your help, problem solved. Turned out to be the new 12 volt horn that was using to test before putting the 6 volts back on. The horn worked most of the time and would then stop for no obvious reason. Mounted the original 6 volt horns with a 12 volt relay, works good but as everyone mentioned very loud. End up disconnecting one horn, to quite it down a little. Unfortunately the trumpet horns don't have the same sound with 12 volts. Have an idea like to get comments on. When starting this project I purchased a voltage reducer from Vintage Auto (HR02) which is intended for heater blower motors - 100 watts. End up putting a new 12 v motor in the heater and didn't use. If the reducer was mounted under the horn bracket & connected to a 6 volt horn relay with the two 6 v trumpet horns, think it may bring them back towards the original sound? Attaching some photos of my 12 volt conversion, still have a few small parts to reattach. Generator is about 1/8 in longer, voltage regulator is a little larger. The aluminum cylinder near the steering column is a remote fill for the master cylinder. Panel box is mounted behind the front seat and normally covered with a tarp. The front load panel seemed to be more flexible than a prewired. Added a crash relay, battery monitor / charger is to the right. Once again than everyone for your comments, Regards Richard
  16. Thank everyone for your comments. Saturday will have help to press the horn ring to get a voltage reading, suspect that it is either a defective 12 volt relay or replacement horn. A little concerned about my wiring, for the horns I followed the same wiring diagram as original. The wire going from the horn ring to the relay is now negative ground as it was originally, and the relay is getting positive power from the voltage regulator which used to be negative. The horn bracket is grounded to the body which is now negative. Because of this, should I be wiring up the relay different? I believe most cars today the wire coming from the horn ring would be positive. I doubt if it is heat from the engine causing a problem, when I took it for a 30 min test drive it was 40 degrees outside and still had the hood side panels off. For those that are using 6 v horns with 12 v. systems, are you using 12 v relays? I agree powder coating is the way to go, had mine done years ago and still look like new. Have ground wires attached to the brass screws in the rear of horns that connects to the horn mechanism and attaches to the firewall, my grounds are good. Located a supplier that sells a powder that matches the steering column, emergency brake, etc really close for the 39 Ply. Purchased a pound or so for around $40 and a local shop coates parts as I get them ready. If interested, will pass on the supplier's name and part number. They give free small metal tags of the color.
  17. HI, Recently converted my 39 Plymouth to 12 volt negative ground, used a 12 volt generator, Ron Francis panel & the original style cloth covered wire under the hood. Happy with the conversion, however have one hiccup with the horn. Goal is to eventually use the 6 volt trumpet horns with reducers, however to be cautious connected a new 12 volt replacement horn and 12 v. relay to the stock horn bracket, which is grounded. Ran a positive wire to the relay and connected the horn wire - negative. At this time only connected one 12 v. horn. When the car isn't running or at a low rpm horn works, however after driving for 10 min or so in which the generator is putting out more amps the horn stops working, has a 30A, which doesn't get blown. Appears that it is overheating, for after awhile with engine off the horn will start working again. This weekend plan to work with it, does the wiring sound correct? If so, perhaps the horn & or relay are defective. As always, thank everyone for your comments, Regards, Richard
  18. Hi Lloyd, I have Julianos retractable 3 point belts in my 39 P8 Business Coupe. Work good, except like to get some type of roll up for the center belts. Is your car a coupe or sedan? I won't be able to get photos for a week or so as am out of town. Will check my hard drive to see if there are any photos on it. Regards, Richard
  19. Have a 39 Ply, originally used 600x16, changed to 215/70 R 16 and in my opinion car handles much better and definately stops better. Probably takes a little more force to parallel park, however when driving see no difference. Purchased from Diamond Back, as they have more sizes to pick from. They take conventional tires and mold the white onto. Look great and so far have held up. Don't know how true it is, when speaking with Croker at Hershey car show, did not feel that one should use radial tires on standard wheels as they are not strong enough??? End up purchasing 6 in wheels and welding tabs on to use original type hubcaps, keeping original wheels in storage. If you live near central N.J. and would consider used 600x16 bias ply, very low millage but old, PM me.
  20. Appreciate your comments. Overdrive wasn't an option in the 39 Ply, trying to locate some literature on how they operate. What little that have found seems it uses a pull cable to activate. When activated it will engage around 30 mph and disengage if speed is reduced below 30 mph. If anyone is using one, would appreciate if they would upload a photo of the pull cable & was connecting the emergency brake an issue. Seems like a great unit for the 39, for although I have a floor shift now, it could be changed back to a column shift by changing top and rails of transmission. This will be a winter project, when make the change over, figure be a good time to also put a new clutch in as will have to take the floor out, clutch doesn't have miles on it, but has years. Car currently has a Mitchells universal unit, works OK, but requires a split driveshaft and getting the two at correct angles took some doing. In my opinion the Mitchels unit would work good in a vehicle with a longer. wheel base. The driveshafts on the car now have modern universal joints, however still have the original driveshaft with trunions. Haven't decided if will have the original driveshaft modified, if so there is a driveshaft shop near me. When playing with the angles, seems like the trunions would have been more forgiving although angles shouldn't be an issue with the change over. The only issue I had with them is changing the rubber covers and the leather covers didnt hold up very well.
  21. Pete, I haven't received the overdrive yet, below are a couple of photo that I received. The top of the transmission looks to be the same as the 39 trans, therefore appears possible to change the top and rails and it could be converted to a column shift. When I changed my column shift to a floor shift was just a matter of changing the top plate & rails. Also had to change the floor from a P7 to allow for the floor shift. I personally like the floor shift, but would be easy to change back to a column shift. Appears that the R6 unit uses the same top plate as the 39 Ply. When I get it in a couple of weeks will upload photos. Appears hat the R6 is an easier swap for the 39. I'm hoping that the second gear is the same ration as the 39.
  22. Hi Recently acquired a transmission / overdrive from a 1937/38 Desoto. It is an R6-1, T86-1P, the unit has been rebuilt. I want to put in a 1939 Plymouth P8 Business Coupe, with stock engine, the current transmission has been converted to a floor shift & floor panels changed. Does anyone know of any available literature for this unit? As I understand it is mechanical and a push / pull cable is used to engage / disengage and if engaged the unit will go into overdrive around 30 mph. The emergency brake cable is on the opposite side, hoping that the current cable can be moved to that side? The drive shaft will have to be shortened. Is anyone aware of any other issues that may come up during installation? Thank you in advance for your help. Regards, Richard
  23. Hi Recently acquired a transmission / overdrive from a 1937/38 Desoto. It is an R6-1, T86-1P, the unit has been rebuilt. I want to put in a 1939 Plymouth P8 Business Coupe, with stock engine, the current transmission has been converted to a floor shift & floor panels changed. Does anyone know of any available literature for this unit? As I understand it is mechanical and a push / pull cable is used to engage / disengage and if engaged the unit will go into overdrive around 30 mph. The emergency brake cable is on the opposite side, hoping that the current cable can be moved to that side? The drive shaft will have to be shortened. Is anyone aware of any other issues that may come up during installation? Thank you in advance for your help. Regards, Richard
  24. Rich, Great article, lot of good pointers. Before I put it away this year will see what can be done.
  25. Bob, NOS worms are getting difficult to locate, were they able to find or modify one? Or possibly have a good machinist on staff.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use