MarkB2PW

I use the breezeways as much as the shop. It's too hot in the shop in summer

I did exactly that. Twice. I wanted an overhang on the side of my shop, but when I looked at the cost of building a support wall, a sea container was a better alternative instead. I use the breezeways as much as the shop. It's too hot in the shop in summer summer.

That's beautiful. Motor pics?

I'm going to chime in because I live in the foothills of Northern California that are full of rattlesnakes. My property is semi remote so I can use guns when necessary. When we first moved in 23 years ago we had rattlers every spring. Having small kids at the time, I had a "the only good rattler is a dead rattler" policy. My wife and I killed many, and now we don't have them. Maybe 1 per year. We have gopher snakes, milk snakes and garter snakes to keep the rodent population down. The bite from a rattler can be deadly but is also going to rot the flesh around the bite area (see google images). I'll spare you my snake stories because it's a car site. I have not yet run one over with the p15 yet, but, I will at the first opportunity.

Does anyone know where I can get a pair of rims for my 1948 P15? Remanufactured or NOS would work for me. The spare is bent by about 3/8" and the right rear which I'm currently driving on is bent enough that the tire sidewall moves in and out 1/4" when rotated. I feel the vibration at 45+mph. I seen some similar on ebay, but you never know for sure what you'll get.

I rewired my 1950 Dodge Power Wagon by removing the old harness and starting fresh with a 12v alternator and coil. Start with the ignition circuit first, then do the lights, horn, and gages next. If you break the rewire project into pieces it's not that difficult.

UPDATE: I was considering changing to 12 volts anyway so I put on a 12v coil, and alternator, lights... Wow, what a difference. It ran much better, not perfect, but better. Then on the second test run, the fuel pump died! So, I put on a new one and now it runs right. No more stumbling. Maybe it was a combination of not enough spark or fuel? I'm just happy to have a running classic again. Thanks again for your help.

The wet compression test with a little oil brought it up to 90psi. What are my budget conscious options going forward?

I could use some help with my recently purchased stock 1950 Olds 88. It ran a little rough when I first got it so I rebuilt the carburetor, new points, plugs, rotor, cap and adjusted the timing. When I step on the gas it still coughs and wants to die. 303 Rocket motor with 73,000 miles. It does idle ok. Setting the timing I went right by the book. I put the distributor clamp arm at "O" position, then rotated the distributor to get the crank pulley pointer in the middle of the machined slot. It ran worse after that. So, I put the distributor back to where it was when I started. I rotated the distributor clockwise almost as far as it would go and it ran much better. About 12 degrees. BUT, it still coughs when I step on the gas. The spring on the points seemed to have the same force as the ones I took out. So, summing it up: I replaced the coil,condenser, rotor, cap, points, plugs. Rebuilt the carb. Checked the compression. 75-80 psi. Purged the fuel line and got fresh fuel. Added a clear fuel filter so I could see if the carb was getting fuel (It is). Checked the timing chain when I had the fuel pump off. It has about 1/4" play as checked from the fuel pump hole. So, still same issue. It will fire up & run at low speed,but, when it warms up and I put load on it (drive up hill) it stumbles. Ok, I accepted my automotive knowledge limitations and took it to a local shop in Placerville, Ca. $154 later they told me that the 80 psi compression is enough for them to say the 303 Rocket needs to be rebuilt. What do you think? I honestly don't know. How much compression is enough for smooth operation? Thanks again for the help.

Tom I had the same problem a while back and I'm just now getting around to fixing it. Forgive me for being cheap, but, is there another way to wire the horn without spending ANOTHER $100 for the relay? Will a modern relay at 1/4 of the price work?

Yep. Cured it. New leaf Spring Shackle Bushings. My son was over on Christmas and grabbed the rear fender well and rocked the car with all his might. I was underneath of course, and could hear the popping coming from the leaf spring shackle bushing. So I replaced them today. All better. Thanks again for your help. Mark

I'm sure I didn't torque the drum to 142 ft-lbs so I will go back and do that. It's going to be about another week or two, before I get to work on the '48 again, but I'll start with the drums. I'll let you know what happens. Mark

Shock bushings look ok and are tight. Spring bushings look terrible. That could be the problem. Are they hard to change?

When I replaced the brakes I greased&checked the wheel bearings and everything felt ok. Differential has not been touched, other than changing the fluid. I've never had the cover off.

205/75-15. I just checked. I have about 2.5" clearance all around between the fender and the tire. I don't think that's it. I'm going to keep looking.

Looking for some help in identifying a clunk I have in the right rear of my 1948 P15. The car is all stock. If I make a right turn I hear a clunk from somewhere near the right rear wheel well and the gas tank. If I make a left turn, same thing, same place. The shocks are old, but, not loose. The exhaust is old but all tight. The gas tank is an aftermarket purchased on Ebay last year. The leaf springs don't seem to be loose. I've been under the probably 10 times car shaking everything to find this noise. No luck. So, I put myself in the trunk and had my son drive it down the road swerving left & right. I could hear it just below me, but, I still can't find it. It sounds like a loose wrench hitting the side of the frame on every movement left or right. Could something be loose in the gas tank? Any suggestions? Mark

I've never liked buying something I could just fix. But, it's time to buy a new one. Thanks for all your input again. What an awesome community. mm

Joe I've got some CLR. I'll try that tonight. I seen a nice tank for 300 bucks but would rather not spend the money for this driver. Thanks Mark

120PSI doesn't work. Hitting the end of a Coat Hanger still doesn't work Solvent doesn't work. Unless someone knows where I can get a clean looking 7/8-20 to 5/16 right angle hose barb fitting... $230.00 at Summit Racing might be the ticket.

I'm going to try the compressed air tomorrow.

The ferrule fell out when I removed the line. I 'm not sure of it's function. I just put it back in when I reinstalled the tank. Should it slip around the internal line? It looked like it was compressed from the flare at each end.

I had the fuel tank line off the '48 P15 today. The old fuel looked like WD-40 but the inside of the tank looked pretty good. I'd like to save the tank but the line going to the sump internally seems clogged. It seemed like it had some flow so I remounted it. Nope, could not get fuel from the tank. Any suggestions on clearing this out? I tried soaking it in diesel, then gas. I tried sticking bailing wire through it from the outside and the wire goes down about 8" then stops. Nothing seems to be clearing it. I'm now considering just using the tank bottom drain for accessing the fuel, if I can find a fitting. I welcome any thoughts.

Has anyone ever used Kanter Auto Products? Are they a reliable source of parts?

I'm replacing the brake system completely, but saving the drums and re-cutting them. My drivers side rear brake drum is bent?. Wobbles like crazy on the lathe. About .070-.100" maybe. Where can I get one at a decent price? And if I find a passenger side drum can I use that one? Or am I overlooking something? I know the thread will be right hand , not left but I'm ok with that. Rockauto has been good for most of the parts , but not the drums. Thanks for your help.

Nice diagnosis Dr Plymouthy Adams. The spring tension arm on the first set was floppy. I took em back to NAPA. The second set, from Autozone of all places, has very high tension and worked like a charm. Noticeable difference in power. This forum saves me so much time, I'm very grateful for your help. 1) Yep. Me. 2) Yep. Or .22 3) Nope. And skunks are rodents around here. 4) Mark 3, Skunks 0.