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MarkB2PW

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MarkB2PW last won the day on July 31 2019

MarkB2PW had the most liked content!

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern Ca
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth Business Coupe
    1950 Dodge B2 power Wagon
    1950 Oldsmobile Futuramic 88

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I fish too
  • Occupation
    Retired

Converted

  • Location
    Sacramento, Ca
  • Interests
    Old Vehicles

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  1. I use the breezeways as much as the shop. It's too hot in the shop in summer
  2. I did exactly that. Twice. I wanted an overhang on the side of my shop, but when I looked at the cost of building a support wall, a sea container was a better alternative instead. I use the breezeways as much as the shop. It's too hot in the shop in summer summer.
  3. That's beautiful. Motor pics?
  4. I'm going to chime in because I live in the foothills of Northern California that are full of rattlesnakes. My property is semi remote so I can use guns when necessary. When we first moved in 23 years ago we had rattlers every spring. Having small kids at the time, I had a "the only good rattler is a dead rattler" policy. My wife and I killed many, and now we don't have them. Maybe 1 per year. We have gopher snakes, milk snakes and garter snakes to keep the rodent population down. The bite from a rattler can be deadly but is also going to rot the flesh around the bite area (see google images). I'll spare you my snake stories because it's a car site. I have not yet run one over with the p15 yet, but, I will at the first opportunity.
  5. Does anyone know where I can get a pair of rims for my 1948 P15? Remanufactured or NOS would work for me. The spare is bent by about 3/8" and the right rear which I'm currently driving on is bent enough that the tire sidewall moves in and out 1/4" when rotated. I feel the vibration at 45+mph. I seen some similar on ebay, but you never know for sure what you'll get.
  6. MarkB2PW

    Wiring

    I rewired my 1950 Dodge Power Wagon by removing the old harness and starting fresh with a 12v alternator and coil. Start with the ignition circuit first, then do the lights, horn, and gages next. If you break the rewire project into pieces it's not that difficult.
  7. UPDATE: I was considering changing to 12 volts anyway so I put on a 12v coil, and alternator, lights... Wow, what a difference. It ran much better, not perfect, but better. Then on the second test run, the fuel pump died! So, I put on a new one and now it runs right. No more stumbling. Maybe it was a combination of not enough spark or fuel? I'm just happy to have a running classic again. Thanks again for your help.
  8. The wet compression test with a little oil brought it up to 90psi. What are my budget conscious options going forward?
  9. I could use some help with my recently purchased stock 1950 Olds 88. It ran a little rough when I first got it so I rebuilt the carburetor, new points, plugs, rotor, cap and adjusted the timing. When I step on the gas it still coughs and wants to die. 303 Rocket motor with 73,000 miles. It does idle ok. Setting the timing I went right by the book. I put the distributor clamp arm at "O" position, then rotated the distributor to get the crank pulley pointer in the middle of the machined slot. It ran worse after that. So, I put the distributor back to where it was when I started. I rotated the distributor clockwise almost as far as it would go and it ran much better. About 12 degrees. BUT, it still coughs when I step on the gas. The spring on the points seemed to have the same force as the ones I took out. So, summing it up: I replaced the coil,condenser, rotor, cap, points, plugs. Rebuilt the carb. Checked the compression. 75-80 psi. Purged the fuel line and got fresh fuel. Added a clear fuel filter so I could see if the carb was getting fuel (It is). Checked the timing chain when I had the fuel pump off. It has about 1/4" play as checked from the fuel pump hole. So, still same issue. It will fire up & run at low speed,but, when it warms up and I put load on it (drive up hill) it stumbles. Ok, I accepted my automotive knowledge limitations and took it to a local shop in Placerville, Ca. $154 later they told me that the 80 psi compression is enough for them to say the 303 Rocket needs to be rebuilt. What do you think? I honestly don't know. How much compression is enough for smooth operation? Thanks again for the help.
  10. Tom I had the same problem a while back and I'm just now getting around to fixing it. Forgive me for being cheap, but, is there another way to wire the horn without spending ANOTHER $100 for the relay? Will a modern relay at 1/4 of the price work?
  11. Yep. Cured it. New leaf Spring Shackle Bushings. My son was over on Christmas and grabbed the rear fender well and rocked the car with all his might. I was underneath of course, and could hear the popping coming from the leaf spring shackle bushing. So I replaced them today. All better. Thanks again for your help. Mark
  12. I'm sure I didn't torque the drum to 142 ft-lbs so I will go back and do that. It's going to be about another week or two, before I get to work on the '48 again, but I'll start with the drums. I'll let you know what happens. Mark
  13. Shock bushings look ok and are tight. Spring bushings look terrible. That could be the problem. Are they hard to change?
  14. When I replaced the brakes I greased&checked the wheel bearings and everything felt ok. Differential has not been touched, other than changing the fluid. I've never had the cover off.
  15. 205/75-15. I just checked. I have about 2.5" clearance all around between the fender and the tire. I don't think that's it. I'm going to keep looking.
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