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MOPARNUTS

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Everything posted by MOPARNUTS

  1. This age and memory thing sucks. I was going from memory on research for a B1D possible swap. I went back to the book. Merle is absolutely right..There was indeed a change in mid B2. So back to Bigphilips original post, swap is possible, but check serial numbers of both donor and receiver to confirm compatability. I think the axles spring mounts may all be the same. Change was probably to the knuckle/king pin mounts mid B2. But don't quote me on that! This change may well explain the king pin differences 4mula - dlx referred to as well. Sigh.
  2. The parts manual I used was a 1953 version for all B series trucks 1948 - 1953. I understand there were some changes 1954+, but I know not what. Perhaps you got something other than 1948 - 53 pins? I have no idea.
  3. jmooner3 I commend you for keeping these scarce parts in circulation. Getting the old gal across the continent (I'm in British Columbia, Canada) would be a challenge. Drums alone would be a little easier. But I understand your desire to keep her whole if possible. I may have a line on some drums - I should know in a couple of weeks. If that falls through, I'll get back to you to see how you are making out with it. And if I hear of anyone needing a rolling chasis I will be sure to let them know. Thanks for your info
  4. According to the parts book, the front axle is the same. number for B, C, & D. Spindles for B & C the same. D is different. King pin for B, C, D all the same Brake support (backing plate) for C & D the same. B is different. Brake shoes for C & D the same. B is different. Drums and hubs are different for each, just to complicate things. So according to this, you could leave your axle on and put B or C spindles on it, as long as you use the complete brake system, drums, backing plate, and hubs for the spindle you are putting on. Clear as mud? Hope this helps.
  5. P-15 D-24 Haven't been able to find wear spec for the B1D front drum. Can you help? Feel bad I haven't found it myself. MAY have found drums. Checking to confirm they can be turned. Many thanks
  6. I did many split rings years ago. If the wheels and rings were in good shape and were installed properly, there was no problem. Inflation was the danger if the rings weren't installed properly. Didn't have a fancy cage, but we put ring to the ground, chain through the wheel holes and across the thread, and put the air to them. Never had a problem. The suggestion of lowering a hoist on top of them during inflation sounds good, too - if you have one.
  7. Thanks so much for the offer. I sure appreciate your effort. I'm not sure what those would fit, but not my B1D. If I run into anyone looking for those in my research I will be sure to let them know. Warm regards.
  8. I'm looking for B1D 1 Ton front (11 in.) and rear (14 in.) brake drums. All are 6 lug. Any such parts? Thanks.
  9. Is it possible that front axle is still available? How about the rear one? I could be interested.
  10. I'm looking for front and rear drums for a 1949 B 1D 1 ton (6 stud). Do you have any such things
  11. That would be for the 5 stud B2B series with sold rims right? Mine is a 6 stud B1D series with split rings.
  12. Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm. Winston Churchill
  13. Thanks for the comments. I'm trying to keep the truck as original as possible. Also, my research to date agrees with Young Ed - converting to discs would entail significant effort and expense for a 1 ton. Also I would need to abandon the originality aspect. If my effort to source the correct drums is unsuccessful, one option I'm looking at is to bolt B 1 B axles under it. Seems those parts are much easier to find. At least that would keep it somewhat original. Anyone out there done that?
  14. I'm new to the forum so I hope I'm doing this right. I have a Fargo FM2 1 ton, same as a Dodge B 1 D, I believe. All four brake drums are worn beyond limits. I have not yet been able to source serviceable replacements. They are hard to find! I haven't been able to find anything on the subject in the forums about welding or inserts or some other method, then turning them to spec (which I don't have). I've looked at recasting using the existing drums to build moulds, but cannot be assured they will conform to specs after cooling. And the cost would be $400.00 to$500.00 each. Ouch! Can anyone help?
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