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matt167

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About matt167

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • My Project Cars
    many

Converted

  • Location
    prattsville
  • Interests
    old cars

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  1. matt167

    Thoughts on General tires

    Keep in mind, that General, Firestone or any of the others do not actually manufacture the vintage look tires. Those tires are licensed products built by another company. Coker tire builds many, but there are others.
  2. matt167

    1941dodge luxury liner cross ply tyres

    Vredenstine has USA based dealers. The Sprint Classic being one that even Coker sells. However the only 16" is a 185HR16 which has a diamater of about 27" which is about right, but a section width of 185mm is extremely narrow. There is little reason to stay with a bias ply if you plan to drive it, a good alignment tech can tweak the adjustments to get rid of any wander and it will drive just the same. I currently have a 1974 MGB, which is spec'd for both cross ply ( bias ply ) and radial ply tires. It gives 2 different alignment specs in the manuals and 2 different air pressure specs in the glove box but drives absolutely perfect on modern tires. The MGB was introduced in 1962 using very old tech and remained mechanically unchanged basically until it was discontinued in 1980. Uses king pin A arm front suspension with lever shocks all around
  3. matt167

    My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe

    No real need for LED lights. They add a bit of complexity for almost no reason. Incandescent lights can be just as bright considering the reflectors are designed for incandescent. Your not going to get rid of the boat feel. It's just how it is, and the car is actually too heavy to utilize a Mustang II safely.. I had a stock '50 converted to discs that I intended to daily and I ended up just hating driving it, so I traded it for an 1974 MGB.. It's the kind of car you keep as a second vehicle and drive rarely. I'd suggest borrowing one before spending too much or deciding if you just want to use the body ect.... It's just the reality of it, especially for a new driver. JMHO
  4. matt167

    MoPar's Syracuse Nationals

    I'll be there, but with my 1974 MGB. I no longer own a Mopar.. I voted for the Dodge in the Build off last year
  5. www.scarebird.com Stock wheels on my '50 Plymouth did not fit, but I don't think any disc brake will fit those particular wheels, and if they do it's because the rotor is smaller than 9" which is what the Scarebird Rotor is ( 1993-1997 Ford probe and many Mazda applications )
  6. Can bolt on Scarebirds in an hr or so.. Either are good kits, Scarebird gets you brand new hubs too, but the kit costs $100 more
  7. matt167

    Stupid carburetor!

    My '50 plymouth did the same thing on a hot idle. I just turned the idle screw a tad, now it idles fine.
  8. My conversion is done and my car is driving again. Brakes stop true and hard. Had a hiccup that's worth noting. The bearings when adjusted like every other bearing I've ever installed ( tighten till tight, back off till castle nut is lined up ) were too loose, and caused a clunk/ bang situation when braking. I put new pads on, then staked the outer pad tabs into the calipers and finally tightened up the bearings one castle notch.
  9. matt167

    Rear brake question

    They probably are close enough to work. The drums are matched sizes, probably 11" in your case. They are only different to accommodate the hub. Other companies used the exact same drums and hardware, front and rear.. That said, rears do not always use the dual wheel cylinder setup like the front. It depends on the year/ model. I'll check my Motors manual to see what you need
  10. It's the bearing itself bottoming out on the spindle.. I thought it was the seal doing it, but after pulling it apart a few times, looking at it, it cannot be the seal preventing it to go all the way in. The only way to see if it differs from the factory hub, is to pull the inner bearing from the factory hub and see where it lands on the spindle, and then do the same with the Scarebird provided bearing. I think the issue though, is the original hubs had the bearings deeper and the seal went over that rear area. The Scarebird hubs just do not cover it And ditto on the seal being listed twice.. I guess mistakes like that just prove Mark is human running a small shop
  11. yup. Can feel the seal sliding past when putting the hub on, so it's at least that far in.
  12. I got the seals in my kit. Timken brand. And yes, it also lists them as '67-'68 Camaro. It goes right behind the rear bearing, cup side in and fits flush with the back of the hub. I think he owe's you a seal I have not finished mine/ hoses not installed. Bummed and waiting for wheels now. I bought both 15 and 17" but I think 15" will work. The line comes into the clip from the top over the frame rail, and the hose comes in from the bottom.. I'll go through my phone and see if I took any pics
  13. are you sure that it was the hub? my rotors fit right over the hubs, no issue. I have the same gap in the back but deemed it ok after looking.
  14. matt167

    1952 Plymouth Suburban

    Looks buildable enough. Good luck with it. Sure hope you didn't trade your Rebel SST for it though.
  15. matt167

    Inexpensive disc brake pads,

    I saw this on another forum. The sad thing is, it works. Never ever see this type of thing anymore but wooden brake linings were once common. Won't last long, but if your in a remote corner of the universe on a sunday, this type of thing will get you home Myself, I just use cheap semi metallic pads
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