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About matt167

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    old cars
  1. Please Help Me with My 1950 Windsor

    That's true, but then with the tip toe, unless low range is needed, should be able to use one leg for operation. A working parking brake to hold car while shifting to reverse or forward, and beyond that it's automatic.. No reason not to try and see if it can be driven like that Also an option to add a VW Autostick diaphram, with a vac servo. Push button clutch. swap the horn ring for use as the clutch switch, and hide a horn button
  2. Topping up gearbox oil

    GL-4 is spec for use with yellow metals in more modern vehicles, so it 'should' be ok. Oils spec for GL4 AND GL5 only hold the GL-4 spec for use in differentials. Read the bottle and it excludes transmissions due to the yellow metals.. My JDM Suzuki mini truck requires 75W90 GL-4 in the transmission due to bronze syncro's and that stuff was $60/ gallon since Redline is one of only a couple that still make it. GL-1 is ready available at many places, but not the places you think to look.. The Ford N series tractors spec GL1 90W, and oil for them can be found at almost any tractor shop you could think of.. TSC for one, but many others. Even some UTF's like Super 303 can carry or cross to a GL-1 spec. Search FNH 134D spec. That is available at Walmart I think. It's all about where you look. These old Mopar's and other's have more in common with tractors, than cars so that is where you look.
  3. help me find sbc swap into 50 plymouth links

    Some states that have inspections will have policies that consider vehicles with non stock like modifications class the vehicle as reconstructed where they have to be brought ' up to code ' so to speak ( seatbelts, 4 way flashers ect... ) but most states, anything goes if it's safe enough
  4. My first classic

    Every year. I'll be taking my car hopefully
  5. light bulb sockets

    The absolute best sockets you will ever find are Ron Francis special billet aluminum sockets. They come in single and dual filament sockets and use a large nut to tighten down, so there is no crimping and everything holds tight. They will take a 6v bulb of the right size. On my '51 Chevy I saved the original license plate light using one. The baseplate was severely rotten and the socket was part of the baseplate. I cut the socket off and cleaned up the base plate, put a single filiment RF socket in place and it worked and fit perfect. https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RR-11
  6. 1953 Chrysler Brakes Rebuild Thread

    They do cover some non factory ways to do things without using the tools you may or may not be able to get anymore. I have a '37-'53 manual. $50 from an antique dealer. Good to have for reference.
  7. 1953 Chrysler Brakes Rebuild Thread

    Old Mopar should have just paid licensing for Bendix. Both GM and Ford had some stake in the Bendix company at one point and pretty much 'everyone else' had gotten away from Lockheed brakes and into Bendix by 1950.. Fitting a Bendix backing plate wouldn't be the end of the world if someone really wanted easy drums, but with Scarebird and Rusty Hope, there is no point for the front. My Motors manual does cover adjustment without the gauge, but it requires modifications which are listed
  8. New owner, 51 Plymouth Cambridge

    My personal experience in 6v came from a '51 Chevy. Slow old cranking beast. Always started but it always felt like a dead battery even though it was not. I've been around other 6v GM's which all seem to operate the same.. 6V Mopar's are very different and crank much faster and start easier. Aside from only having 6v, and positive ground, there is really no reason to switch. You probably wouldn't know the difference
  9. Spark plug wiring order 1948 p14 Deluxe

    Should be about 7 o clock if it's right. But these are old engines, and you could simply drop the distributor in any old way, and wire them up on #1 at TDC and it'll run and work just fine. Depends on the mechanic who worked on it last. Verify it by finding #1 at TDC and go from there. Where the rotor is pointing is where it is.
  10. Spark plug wiring order 1948 p14 Deluxe

    1 5 3 6 2 4 with #1 at the front
  11. '50 Plymouth brakes adjust or upgrade?

    I'll have to see how bad it is when I get it home. He told me all the brake parts are new, and they do work well enough for that to be believable. Said he got them from Napa for a cost around $500. If it's screwballed then the $500 that I'll have to spend to get it back in shape would be better spent on a disc kit. I'll just fight with the rears to get them adjusted if that is the case. I do know a guy that probably has the right tool if I need it. I really don't want to bother swapping in a different rear end and I actually have a couple Ranger/ Explorer rears that I could use.
  12. '50 Plymouth brakes adjust or upgrade?

    Will an original MC work with the discs? My Motors manual shows 2 ways to do it, the one with the tool and another without it, although that process is like 5 steps more.. With the cost of brakes if anything is amiss it would pay to install the discs.
  13. Picking up my '50 Plymouth sometime next month. Trying to figure out everything I need to do to it to get it where I want it.. I have zero issues with 4 wheel drum brakes, and non self adjusters. BUT, I've never had a car with Lockheed brakes either. The PO told me they probably need a bit of adjustment although they stop straight and decent. I'm pretty positive he did not have a manual.. I took a gander at my '37-'53 Motors Manual and OMG, those front brakes and the adjustments are out there... How easy is it to get them in decent adjustment or, should I just put a Scarebird kit on it? IF I put discs on the front will the factory Master cylinder be sufficient? I really don't want to go beyond stock, but I do want to stop
  14. working with plastic

    I bet it's made of HPDE, which is a type of thermoplastic and will bend and shape as well as any. If you make it thinner by heating it up, you can buy/ order some P-Tex which is actually base repair sticks for skis and snowboards but is just Polyethelene sticks. The P tex can be burned/ melted and then using a razor blade/ sanding get it smooth again
  15. Lube door hinges on 1950 Special Deluxe

    IIRC it's a very basic straight petroleum oil with a solevant mixed in to make it flow faster... You can get a basic chain lube in either a dropper bottle or aerosol to do the same thing, since chain needs similar lubrication