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matt167

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About matt167

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    many

Converted

  • Location
    prattsville
  • Interests
    old cars

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  1. matt167

    MoPar's Syracuse Nationals

    I'll be there, but with my 1974 MGB. I no longer own a Mopar.. I voted for the Dodge in the Build off last year
  2. www.scarebird.com Stock wheels on my '50 Plymouth did not fit, but I don't think any disc brake will fit those particular wheels, and if they do it's because the rotor is smaller than 9" which is what the Scarebird Rotor is ( 1993-1997 Ford probe and many Mazda applications )
  3. Can bolt on Scarebirds in an hr or so.. Either are good kits, Scarebird gets you brand new hubs too, but the kit costs $100 more
  4. matt167

    Stupid carburetor!

    My '50 plymouth did the same thing on a hot idle. I just turned the idle screw a tad, now it idles fine.
  5. My conversion is done and my car is driving again. Brakes stop true and hard. Had a hiccup that's worth noting. The bearings when adjusted like every other bearing I've ever installed ( tighten till tight, back off till castle nut is lined up ) were too loose, and caused a clunk/ bang situation when braking. I put new pads on, then staked the outer pad tabs into the calipers and finally tightened up the bearings one castle notch.
  6. matt167

    Rear brake question

    They probably are close enough to work. The drums are matched sizes, probably 11" in your case. They are only different to accommodate the hub. Other companies used the exact same drums and hardware, front and rear.. That said, rears do not always use the dual wheel cylinder setup like the front. It depends on the year/ model. I'll check my Motors manual to see what you need
  7. It's the bearing itself bottoming out on the spindle.. I thought it was the seal doing it, but after pulling it apart a few times, looking at it, it cannot be the seal preventing it to go all the way in. The only way to see if it differs from the factory hub, is to pull the inner bearing from the factory hub and see where it lands on the spindle, and then do the same with the Scarebird provided bearing. I think the issue though, is the original hubs had the bearings deeper and the seal went over that rear area. The Scarebird hubs just do not cover it And ditto on the seal being listed twice.. I guess mistakes like that just prove Mark is human running a small shop
  8. yup. Can feel the seal sliding past when putting the hub on, so it's at least that far in.
  9. I got the seals in my kit. Timken brand. And yes, it also lists them as '67-'68 Camaro. It goes right behind the rear bearing, cup side in and fits flush with the back of the hub. I think he owe's you a seal I have not finished mine/ hoses not installed. Bummed and waiting for wheels now. I bought both 15 and 17" but I think 15" will work. The line comes into the clip from the top over the frame rail, and the hose comes in from the bottom.. I'll go through my phone and see if I took any pics
  10. are you sure that it was the hub? my rotors fit right over the hubs, no issue. I have the same gap in the back but deemed it ok after looking.
  11. matt167

    1952 Plymouth Suburban

    Looks buildable enough. Good luck with it. Sure hope you didn't trade your Rebel SST for it though.
  12. matt167

    Inexpensive disc brake pads,

    I saw this on another forum. The sad thing is, it works. Never ever see this type of thing anymore but wooden brake linings were once common. Won't last long, but if your in a remote corner of the universe on a sunday, this type of thing will get you home Myself, I just use cheap semi metallic pads
  13. I ended up getting Jegs ralleys with caps in 15x6. $257 total and I threw in a t shirt for no reason.
  14. Yeah. I just didn't really want to.. I have a couple Crown vic wheels. I might fit them up and just stick them on the front.
  15. Yup, but that's not what is on his website. I would have prepared with wheels on order. Now I'm set back a week or so
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