HanksB3B

The nightmare is over I watched and chased threads while Rod Drilled, Chiseled, Ice Picked and tapped with taps from his pop Leonard's tool box. Learned there are tapered and bottom taps and in special cases a "custom" starter tap (more tapered). Easy-Outs did not work but perserverance resulted in what looks like a perfect re-thread without the need for a heli-coil. Nice work Rod, Hank

Those do not look like stock drums and if they worked it would be nice to know what they came off because when it comes to drums you are most likely "s" out of luck unless you find a local junk yard that happens to have some. Unfortunately your time to go with a disc brake conversion is here. Mines a ticking time bomb like most of us that will most likely have to bite the bullet at some point and convert to front discs. Jeff knows because his truck is disc's all around and a couple of "been there done that" guys on the forum will be more helpful. I've seen the drums go for $450 so x 2 that leaves you with a good reason to do it now. Welcome to the Forum, and who knows you could get lucky and find some, Hank P.S. For owners of rusty bolt vehicles: there is an art-form to rusty bolt removal: When I found a junk yard with a part I wanted I first bought the part (or gave a deposit) Before I left the yard I'd soak the bolts with (liquid wrench back then) PB Blaster or they say a mixture of ATF and something else I think Acetone then come back the following week. Repeated tap tap tap or an impact tool will break up rust crystals id the bolt moves at all try loosening/tightening repeatedly until you get motion..keep soaking and if it doesn't give come back next week...You catch my drift...Patience and in some cases taking as long as possible with these trucks is often the shortest path to progress. To me it looks like you never soaked the studs, too much force and snap or bend..is usually the outcome.

You need to know your engine number to find the correct Distributor Number for your truck. The Part Manual seems kind of cryptic when it comes to an actual part number (unless I don't know how to read it) Does anyone know part numbers for the 1AT series distributors ? Don ??? Anyone ??? Thanks, Hank P.S. at $1.15, I'll take ten...

How bout "Fun with "OOS Parts" Part of the "booty" of the "All Mopar Swapmeet" at the Rosebowl 1980 with my friend Slick (the guy that got me into this mess) the shackles were $1.50....those were the days of Junkyards and no eBay. Hank I think these were $0.50...

BigPhillip from Texas , Howdy & Welcome Hank

Guys, Wondering if it's a Vacuum Control pandemic. My quirky running truck (not unlike Jeff's thinking "it's a carb issue") Rod's truck started acting quirky as well. My thoughts are that at <67 years Pilothouse Vacuum Control Diaphrams have outlived their life expectancy. Like Merle, I'm on the quest this morning to find an outfit capable of rebuilding these units. If there are any mechanical engineers in our group ? Let me throw this out there: What determines the thickness of the original diaphram ? Is it vacuum pressure/thickness x area (or some formula like that)? . Also I'd want the diaphram to be urethane if that material is compatible with gasoline. If you can blow through your vaccume control unit, It's shot, Hank Now for something different: Around sundown I pulled my truck under a tree at my local hardware store an admirerer asked "Is that a Kit? My thought..."Fiberglass*&%$#* ?" " I know some some people that would kill if asked that question"? (well....maybe not...)

Paul, Maybe let Keven take it off your hands (he's a wonderful guy and he lives up your way) that is if his wife doesn't say "One more project Keven and I'm leaving." (Actually I wouldn't wish that on anyone I was once heartbroken and I called an older wiser friend told him my marriage fell apart and he said "You Lucky Guy" at the time I thought it was completely inappropriate....after a while I came to realize it was not. Too bad but I hope it make your other dreams come true, Hank

Precicely Don, ...Fernando, Edit your post #25 (remove the pics keep the words) where you quoted some idiot that put huge pictures in post # 24. Thanks, Hank

Don, Seems I have two 1AT -4012. One that I have been through and the other one untouched. X X X Working on it..but offline Hank

I'm not really sure what all the part codes explain but will do some research unless anyone else has already done this. I'm getting my parts book out now. Of the three distributors I have (other than the one in my truck) the most obvious difference is the length of the shaft, however I have a theory that a 1/4 " spacer could be used between the base of the distributor casting and the mounting plate that will raise the disrributor up 1/4" and allow more than just the numbers correct distributor to be used. If I remember correctly the 1AT that my truck is running has a 5-1/4" long shaft (218-230 engines) and I've been told that the 5-1/2" shaft distributors are for the 265 cubic inch engines. It's a theory but I think there is plenty of lenght of the collar (the part that seats into the engine block) so that by use of the 1/4" spacer between the distributor and the mounting plate it just may be possible to use the distributor designed for the 265 on the 218-230 cu. in, engines. More to follow, Hank

Look what Rod found this past Saturday at Woodley Park. It's still true that nice things happen to good people. They are in excellent shape and even 30 years ago these four would have been a great deal. and really nice patches: Had a great time even though there was not one Pilothouse, Our trucks are really becoming scarce. Nice find Rod ! Hank .

Fernando, PM me your address I'll send you one (not brand new) but in good shape. Hank .

I think I'll experiment on Rod's thuch it's running something aweful I hear..mine's running great right now but I want to do the advance till it pings and then back it off experience just to be roadworthy knowledgeable. Maybe I'll get my friend Clem to hang over the fender and tweak it while we're driving. Thanks, Fargo Hank

Nice work work guys on helping Finmad out, but Fargo I always thought that turning the dizzy clockwise "advanced" rather than "retarded" the timing. I'm not saying I'm right I just want to know. Nice temporary fix on plugging the vaccuum port at the carb ! (everybody knows that...except for me) Jeff that sounds like a good idea to have a vaccuum gauge as part of the running gear. Would you please post a picture. I guess having it on my truck all the time is better than leaving it in a closet and desperately looking for it. Thanks, Hank

Your vaccuum advance diaphram may be shot. Made it necessary for me to tennderfoot my gas pedal. Extremely weak acceleration and weak power band from idle up to running speed. Just a thought, Hank .

I thought "taller" meant a higher gear ratio, so to pull a camper you need a shorter gear ratio. I also think that the term "taller gear ratio would be better understood if we just said higher gear ratio and lower gear ratio but that is confusing as well like a 3.54 is a higher gear ratio than a 4.11 so the lower number 3.54 is a higher gear ratio or the lower the number the taller the ratio. Not confused, just mixed up. Hank

Thought so, Thanks. Hank

Is it the sock type that you are using ? Thanks, Hank

Neat Trick ! Hank

me too ! 1. what are the dimensions of the label ? 2. the height of all the lettering. 3. and how many inches the lettering runs Keven can make anything in vinyl (I could help with the artwork Kev) Hank

Hi Fernando, Take a picture, Hank

Don, Thanks for explaining that to me. I don't see the ported vacuum connection located on the base of the carburetor (the little aluminum button?) That dual carb set up of yours sure looks nice. Is that something you upgraded to of did your car come with a them? If not, did you notice a big performance improvement going dual ? I always appreciate your help, Hank Jeff, I can see your...no, I don't see your points, but I do see your point ! Send me a set for Christmas, it's just around the corner and it'll probably cool down to 90 deg. by then ya think ? Not a purist, Hank

It is called a "shoulder washer" it's made of Nylon and can be found at Ace Hardware or I'd imagine any other good local hardware store that has those slide out flip top boxes. O'rings sound like they may do the trick, but a harder shoulder washer is the "perfect" fix. Hank finmad, If you can't find it, slip me a PM with your mailing address and I'll send you one.