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Rjpond

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    39
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About Rjpond

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    1955 dodge truck c-3-c

Converted

  • Location
    Grovertown
  • Interests
    Old tractors and trucks

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  1. That is one nice looking hubcap, thanks for sharing that picture
  2. Thanks, I’ve been looking on internet and I think I found a couple examples. The “DODGE” lettering is painted a separate color. I guess these work trucks didn’t display much chrome
  3. I’ve enjoyed the time spent cleaning up the original rims on my truck. My plans are to make my truck just a nice, original looking daily driver. With my rims looking new again, and with a set of new tires, I’m pretty proud on how everything turned out I have started, however, to research what hubcaps were used and I’m learning that originally the hubcaps were painted the same cream color of the rims? Does anyone have pictures of their painted hubcaps? I guess I’m trying to warm up to the thought of painted hubcaps instead of chrome thanks Scott
  4. Rjpond

    Look at a parts truck 55

    I’m also working on a 1955 pickup. My truck sat outside for a number of years and it’s 259 remains froze up. Which gives me a headache. If you go to the look at the parts truck, I would be interested in making you an offer for the V8 hood emblem and the tailgate if in good condition. Here in Indiana, I missed out on a 1956 dodge truck that was tore down but the parts and correct V8 engine were very useable. Sold for $1000
  5. Rjpond

    Dome light door switch

    Dummy me, I didn’t even think about eBay. I’m often searching for stuff using : 1955 dodge truck or c-series dodge and never saw them listed. Thanks you Plymouthy Adam
  6. Almost finished wiring the 1955 3/4 ton, I need to order a new turn signal switch and also run new wires to the dome light. Where the door hinges attach to the frame, is a wired post terminal that turns the dome light on or off when the door is opened or closed. I unscrewed the post and found that both (driver side and passenger) are pretty rusty. Is there a supplier who handles these post or has anyone upgrade to a push-button door switch? thank you
  7. Rjpond

    Wiring question

    Do you still run the two battery set up?
  8. Rjpond

    Wiring question

    Yeah, I did a poor job answering the member’s question on if it’s a 12 volt system. It is a six volt system with positive ground. The truck had one six volt battery in the battery box mounted to the frame and a second battery was mounted under the hood. I’m not sure why the two batteries ,maybe for better starting in winter weather? I plan to keep it six volts with only one battery
  9. Rjpond

    Wiring question

    Thanks guys for the good info and help
  10. Rjpond

    Wiring question

    Thank you Plymouthy Adams for your reply regarding the schematic and what it actually shows. I’m pretty sure the wiring is all original so I’ll keep tracking and replacing one wire at a time. I do reference the wiring diagram to make sure I replace with correct gauge wire
  11. Rjpond

    Wiring question

    Yes it is a six volt positive ground system. The previous owner had add a second device (like a second selinoid) which a member told me allowed him to add a second six volt battery . So that also complicates things for a novice like me
  12. Lately I’ve ejoyed replacing wires on my 55 3/4 ton truck. I’ve started working on the wiring that matches up with the wiring diagram that I have. My 55 is what they say a later model and I wonder if I need a better diagram? My truck has a horn relay, windshield wipers, heater box and other wiring areas that don’t match with the 1955 diagram that I’m using. For instance, my truck’s headlight switch has a wire connected direct to the ignition switch. The corresponding attaching post on my diagram shows a wire running to the ammeter ( which matches my trucks wiring), however it shows the other wire going to the coil and not the ignition? I guess I’m a bit confused. thanks
  13. Rjpond

    1955 C-3-C gas tank placement

    I agree that holding the tank tight to the frame rail makes the most sense. I guess what had me concerned was that the tank sat higher than the frame rail Looking now at the big picture I also see where the rear shock mounts are above the frame rail. I’m thinking that the height of the tank will not cause me any problems when I try to remember how the bed bolts down. thank you
  14. My apologies for my slow work but I finally had some time to work on my truck yesterday. Thanks to you guy’s photos, using the spring and bolt setup. I fastened the front of the tank with the seam of the tank resting on top of the bottom lip of the frame’s crossmember. The original rear bracket, that the back of the tank attached to, was rusted through so I fabricated a new one. Maybe I didn’t replicate the bracket with enough perfection because when I attached the tank to my rear bracket the connection for the gas fill tube was too far apart for the original hose length to be securely fastened. If I slide the rear of the tank over about two inches then the entire lip of the tank’s seam would rest on the bottom channel of frame’s main rail. Maybe that is the correct placement of the tank? This would solve the fill tube connection problem. However, sliding the rear of the tank over also lifts the tank up to where the top of the tank is now about an inch above the top of the two main frame rails. Won’t this cause me problems with reattaching the bed? I guess I’m just confused if I should simply buy a longer piece on connecting hose or if proper placement of the tank would require sliding it over? Thanks
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