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55 Fargo

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Blog Comments posted by 55 Fargo

  1. UPDATE:

    Hey all, did not post much lately on this swap, all has been on hold and hope to get back at it soon.

    The AoK plate while a great quality piece, was not going to work on my large truck bell housing, thats what my Canadian built truck with a T98 Acme trans is equipped with.

    Not what was expected, but this particular bell was not engineered to work with the adapter plate, but another is being engineered as I write this post, so stay tuned.

    But here are pics of Harry37s build from the HAMB, his A833 trans and AoK adapter plate coupled with his Chrysler flathead 6.

    I was recently approached by a member as to what was happening with this swap, and no I have not given up or failed on the switch, just a roadblock.

    So hopefully will get going again soon, and get her done...

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  2. UPDATE:

    Hey all, been a while again and I apologize for the delay on the A833 happenings.

    Okay here is the SCOOP,

    The AoK adapter plate and my Canadian built T 98 Acme bell are having an issue.

    While the adapter plate does bolt on the bell housing in the smaller 4 bolt pattern, it cannot bolt onto the 4 bolt pattern that my T98A trans attached to.

    Now this is because of the following, the 4 bolts to hang the T98 A are 5/8 threads, so the adapter plate is designed for 7/16 bolts, next issue is, the 4 inner bolt holes to align to this bell, but, now the plate center input hole is not dead center to the bell housing hole or the crankshaft.

    This T98 A trans was used in Jeep, Ford and Canadian built M37 Power Wagons, not sure how it ended up in my light duty 108 WB Fargo pickup, nor will I ever know.

    So this project is ground to a halt for the time being, but we are looking at solutions while I type this, for my case only.

    I cannot attest to any 1940s through 50s USA car/truck bells or Canadian built bells, not using a T98A transmission.

    I apologize for the delay and hope to bring more updates to the "table" when possible.

    Some pics for those to have an idea what I am up against.

    I did create a bronze bushing to reduce the throwout bearing assembly to work with the A833 input-shaft, which turned out very well, and its super simple. The car type and smaller truck type throw out bearing work as is.

    a 10.5 or 11 inch Mopar 23 t clutch disc is whats needed with your stock flywheel and clutch, again a simple part of the equation.

    If the plate was aligned to register dead center on my odd ball bell it would be such a simple swap, it's not funny.

    The A833 input shaft with the adapter place is the correct length.

    Its basically the same length as the T98Acme trans input shaft minus the plate. So a correct for for the pilot bushing and crank end.

    other considerations for the time being, my diff gearing is 3.23 , this with a .73 overdrive is a little tall for my engine power and the truck, a 373 would be best, at the very least a 3.55 and the most a 3.90 set of gears.

    I do not see any issue with the gear spread from 1st to 3rd gears, as it is essentially the same as my T98 A from 2nd to 4th gears.

    The T98 A is back in for a short time again, a very heavy trans, and fun to put back in.

    STAY TUNED

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    • Like 1
  3. Here is a peak inside the old T98 Acme trans, BTW these transmissions were used exclusively on all Canadian built M37 Power Wagons, along with a 250 engine, and Acme PTO transfer case..

    It looks not bad inside, it did have a little water in it, when I got it.. 

    A very tough brutish trans, I  wonder how it made its way into my little 108 WB Fargo, I also had a 1955 Dodge 1 ton with an identical trans, so possibly in the C series trucks, Chrysler Canada had an excess of these and were using them too, I cannot verify this one way or another..

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  4. So 1 noticeable issue, the T98 Acme, has a 13/8 input shaft, and the A833 is 1 inch, so at first thought, decided I would buy a smaller diameter release bearing and holder.

    I thought about this some more, and decided to purchase a new larger release bearing SKF N1087, and use the correct size bronze bushing to reduced the entire throwout bearing for the A833 input shaft collar, it works like a charm. The bronze bushing reducer, is not pressed into the holder yet.

    So next need a 23 spline 11 inch clutch disc in order to proceed in fit alignment etc, stay tuned...........

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  5. UPDATE 2:

    Last Sunday got ready and pulled the T98 Acme truck trans, no small feat in a home garage, no hoist, no trans jack.

    Put front end of truck up on stands, pulled floor plate, and go to it, will not belabor the minor details.

     

    Got the trans out, lowered to floor with a small floor jack some wood blocking and a small ratchet strap.

     

    Once trans was out, 2 details, 1) the trans bolts are tapped 5/8 UNC, and adapter plate is designed for 7/16 holes and fasteners, nota big deal though as once the trans was pulled, my dual pattern bell revealed the smaller 4 pattern 7/16 holes, as is on the AoK adapter plate.

    It attaches well as you will see in this picture.20180114_142640_resized_2.jpg.71cd8ac35f163e95c3b646284d0a45f6.jpg

     

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  6. Hey all here is an update, unfortunately any and all further info on this swap will be contained to this blog, as troublemakers insist on sabotaging any open forum threads and dialogue.

    UPDATE A833 Transmission Swap to  Chrysler Flathead 6 Cylinder Truck Application:

    Early January, the A833 was rebuilt minus new gears, all in great shape and ready for the "trans plant".

     

     

     

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  7. UPDATE 2018-01-03

    Okay so another New Year has begun and its been quite a while since I updated this thread.

    Been super busy with many other things, do now getting some time for this project.

    Dropped off my A833 to a local trans guru yesterday.

    This gent has a super large home shop he us a drag racer and predominantlya Chevy guy gor that stuff.

    Last night got a call from him, he informed me all looks good but front inputshaft bearing and thrust washes seals gaskets etc.

    He stated the gears looked great.

    So next step is the clutch, but first have to pull trans and clutch from truck for rebuilding unless i can source new stuff first.

    My clutch is not old so might just swap friction discs, as it all gets pulled again for the 265 swap.

    Will post pics soon .

    Circle the wagons T5ers A833 boys are riding into town.

     

     

     

     

  8. Well its fairly simple on a cam profile for an industrial engine destined for a "combine" low RPM torque, how much different than say a truck profile I do not know. These engines are rated at 95 hp, but at a much lower RPM than 3600.

    Okay some close up pics, cyl 6 has a bad rust pitted spot, that cyl might clean up with a honing, but it could very well be a boring candidate. Not as good as I was told, but would only believe after my assessment.

    Lifter chamber is quite clean...

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  9. Okay so picked up the engine last Saturday, and hauled it home.

    I pulled the head, lots of carbon, and cyl 6 had some moisture o the valves, and the cyl got a little rusted on the top 2 inches.

    I lceaned up all, and oiled the cyl walls until I get a chance to deal with it.

    The valve chambers, the valves and top of combustion chambers cleaned up nicely.

    The underside of head cleaned up too.

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  10. Okay today picked up one of the 265 engines.

    It looks good, lifter chamber clean as whistle, has compression, oil while dark was clean and not full of metal flakes or anything.

    Plugs don't look bad either.

    I asked a lot of questions, Gent I bought it from purchased it 25 years ago from an old Farmer, he either had his engine rebuilt or bought a rebuilt engine from Piston Ring Machine in Winnipeg.

    It was installed into a Massey combine and used 2 seasons then the combine had other issues so the machine was scrapped, but the farmer did not want to scrap a rebuilt engine, so pulled it....

    The big plan is to hopefully use this engine without a rebuild, but shave head and install a wilder cam.

    This will be coupled to a Chrysler A833 trans, no T5 for this baby.....

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  11. Okay, here is a blog update, and is of course a Mopar 4 Mopar solution.

    Yesterday while cutting grass on my lawn tractor, noticed something looked wet on the back side of the right rear tire and upon close inspection, it looks like a wheel cyl started leaking.

    Lucky for me, I had a new slave cyl in my stock, and just needed to fix the problem

    I pulled the brake a apart, some leakage, but not super bad yet, shoes were saveable, so rolled up my sleeves and got to work.

    I cleaned all the parts, and shoes, as well as the drum, with brake clean, then painted drum to a nice gloss black.

    Once all was back together, it was time to bleed the brakes, nobody was around as it was getting on into the night, and the wife did not feel up to helping me out.

    I used my Lisle 1 man brake bleeder kit, and bled the brakes, and got out some nasty fluid, which surprised me as I had bled the brakes only a few years ago.

    brakes were not bad, but not quite as good as before, thought I might have air in the system, so decided to try gravity bleeding, so up front I first pulled the bleeders out of the stock type drum brakes, well they both had restrictive crud in them, So got them nice and clean, but gravity bleeding didn't work so well with a master cylinder, so low in the mix.

    Back to the 1 man bleeder kit, and a pole to hold brake pedal down between bleeding, this worked well.

    it then dawned on me to check all the brake adjustments, and had to adjust the right rear drums, a lot, as they had just been apart, also the left rear needed some, and the fronts were fine as is.

    The result, great, high and hard pedal and great braking, very pleased with the brakes and outcome...

    Of course these are 1980s Mopar bendix type brakes on my 8 1/4 rearend....

     

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  12. So yesterday scored 2 265 engines, both turn both run, the 1 out of it,s application was run  few years ago.

    I can now add this to my other 265 engine, for 3 of these babies for future use for myself or other flathead Hi Perf enthusiasts.

    The gent I am acquiring these engines from also had a 237 and a 250 both running, he also had a low mile 313 Poly V8, so a real Mopar dude.

    engine spins freely, has nice dark oil, quite clean valve lifter chambers, and no broken manifold studs in the block.

    I will of course need to go over this engine, it has been rebuilt once at Winnipegs largest engine rebuilder, then and now, Piston Ring Service, .040 pistons, .010 rods, 0.20 mains.

    Now if the mains are out of spec again, might not use this crank for Hi Perf use.

    Here are some pictures, it was a great afternoon and visit..

     

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    • Like 1
  13. Okay Mopar Flathead fans, "hear Ye, hear ye hear all".......

    Okay so my "old faithful, 228 ci Fargo engine is getting tired after a 62 year dedicated and reliable service.

    Recently compression tests indicate some compression loss, dry tests and wet tests numbers about the same, cold tests lower than warm engine tests.

    it was high time for a more reliable test which could more precisely isolate what is going on inside this engine.

    Compression tests are a good indicator often of a healthy engine, in my case, I was getting compression numbers of 90-95 psi, on all cyls except for cylinder 4, which was about 80 psi. Adding il down the sparkplug hole did little if any to change the numbers.

    Thanx to a good Pal locally borrowed his Cylinder Leakdown Tester, this I used on both cold and warm engine.

    The results are as follows, on all cyls, escept cyl 4 moderate pressure loss, to the tune of 40%, and cyl 4 near 80 %.

    I could not hear any air rushing out of the intake/carbs or tail pip, but on cyl #4 I could hear some air out the tail pipe.

    On all cyls air leakage was coming out the oil filler pipe, telling me, my rings and cylinders are leaking moderately.

    Now compression rings are leaking, or upper cylinder wear or possibly even broken rings.

    This engine has really good oil pressure, and does not smoke or burn oil out the tail pipe. It does however have some blowby out the filler tube pipe, such as life, this engine has earned its right to smoke a bit after 62 years of service.

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  14. So yesterday scored 2 265 engines, both turn both run, the 1 out of it,s application was run  few years ago.

    I can now add this to my other 265 engine, for 3 of these babies for future use for myself or other flathead Hi Perf enthusiasts.

    The gent I am acquiring these engines from also had a 237 and a 250 both running, he also had a low mile 313 Poly V8, so a real Mopar dude.

    1 engine spins freely, has nice dark oil, quite clean valve lifter chambers, and no broken manifold studs in the block.

    I will of course need to go over this engine, it has been rebuilt once at Winnipegs largest engine rebuilder, then and now, Piston Ring Service, .040 pistons, .010 rods, 0.20 mains.

    Now if the mains are out of spec again, might not use this crank for Hi Perf use.

    Here are some pictures, it was a great afternoon and visit..

     

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  15. Okay Mopar Flathead fans, "hear Ye, hear ye hear all".......

    Okay so my "old faithful, 228 ci Fargo engine is getting tired after a 62 year dedicated and reliable service.

    Recently compression tests indicate some compression loss, dry tests and wet tests numbers about the same, cold tests lower than warm engine tests.

    it was high time for a more reliable test which could more precisely isolate what is going on inside this engine.

    Compression tests are a good indicator often of a healthy engine, in my case, I was getting compression numbers of 90-95 psi, on all cyls except for cylinder 4, which was about 80 psi. Adding il down the sparkplug hole did little if any to change the numbers.

    Thanx to a good Pal locally borrowed his Cylinder Leakdown Tester, this I used on both cold and warm engine.

    The results are as follows, on all cyls, escept cyl 4 moderate pressure loss, to the tune of 40%, and cyl 4 near 80 %.

    I could not hear any air rushing out of the intake/carbs or tail pip, but on cyl #4 I could hear some air out the tail pipe.

    On all cyls air leakage was coming out the oil filler pipe, telling me, my rings and cylinders are leaking moderately.

    Now compression rings are leaking, or upper cylinder wear or possibly even broken rings.

    This engine has really good oil pressure, and does not smoke or burn oil out the tail pipe. It does however have some blowby out the filler tube pipe, such as life, this engine has earned its right to smoke a bit after 62 years of service.

     

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  16. Okay, so the current engine in my 55 Fargo is a correct numbers 1954-56 Canadian Dodge or Fargo engine, and could very well be a 54 or eraly 55 as it is a 228.

    I do not have a spec for HP, Torque or Compression Ratio.

    My little engine has always ran good, burns no oil, and never smokes, and has very little blowby.

    She starts well, has the usual small amounts of oil leaking etc.

    I have done a compression test, both dry and wt, with a good and warm engine.

    90-95 in 5 cyls,  cyl #4 is 85, adding oil did not change the results to any degree.

    So next was time for a "Leak Down Test", on a warmed up engine, this engine has 40% leakage with cyl #4 in the 80 % range.

    There is no air loss via the intake or exhaust, all out the crankcase, so no doubt cylinder and ring wear, or possibly broken rings.

    I did the test 3 times, to make very sure.

    I will run my little engine for the summer, and most likely install a 265 this fall or winter, do not think I will be rebuilding this engine.

    If I did rebuild it, most likely would go over bore to 3 7/16 pistons, a nd a hotter cam with a milled head for added compression. This would or could make a nice little revver of an engine.

    But as my good friend Tim Kingsbury would say, no replacement for displacement, and why try to make a "silk purse" outta a "sows ear"......LOL

    here is my good running donor 265 engine, have to do a diagnostic on it before I would install it though...

     

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    • Like 1
  17. Okay, so not a whole lot of activity on the Chrysler Flathead Hi Perf Engine thread the past few days, was hoping some of the serious and interested types would contribute some content on this thread.

    It does not need to be high dollar, and super exotic modified engines, a simple "Head Milling" and split exhaust certainly qualifies.

    I have come across 2 rebuilt 265 engines the past few days, and will be looking at one as a perspective candidate, and will post pics and updates on what I find.

    I do won another 265, came out of My Father -in-laws combine, and is a runner too, but still need to get it home, this one is a Chrysler Industrial engine built in 1969.

    I have no idea what type of cam profile or Combustion Chamber design the Industrial engine many have, but do suspect it is built for a fixed RPM with low RPM torque being the priority.

    My current engine is a bit tried, a stock 228 CI  3 3/8 bore and 4 1/4 stroke 25 inch block,with a T 335 serial number, and in most likely was never rebuilt.

    It runs very well, does not burn oil, leaks a bit, has very good oil pressure 55-60 after 35 mph, and 40 psi at idle, on real hot days or when engine good and warm, that might drop to 35 or so at idle.

    Last night did a compression test, as she is a bit down on power, this is what I found 90-95 psi compression except cyl#4 it has 75 psi, did this wet with 30 weight oil in each cyl, this did not change the test results.

    I am no doubt deal with a burnt valve or very poorly sealed ring in hole #4.

    This engine starts well, and runs well for the most parts, so is a bit tired, factory or fresh compression normally on this 7:1 engine would be 110-120 psi, so down a bit.

    Here are some fairly recent pics of the bottom end, note how clean it is, and evidence of cross hatching can be seen in the cyls.post-107-0-79614800-1446498100.jpg.d1e639bba9e12e0a6db16d2bcb46ac4f.jpgpost-107-0-09777400-1446498104.jpg.3be33da595224d1e7823736af7996abc.jpg

     

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  18. Thanx Tim, most likely will focus on this Blog Topic, and some others relating to Hi Perf Flathead topics.

    I am currently not participating in the "Open Forum", where some people with a specific agenda continue to berate and question why A Mopar freak wold want a Mopar solution for an overdrive trans.

    The last weeks issues regarding the AoK Adapter, was the icing on the cake, and of course they had nothing to add in a productive way...

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