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55 Fargo

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Everything posted by 55 Fargo

  1. Right On Pat, Should We Take A Poll, I Am Sure Larry Will In For This............fred Lol
  2. Ed, I know the twin cities is not like Warroad or Int Falls, weather wise, but you are probably one of the coldest big cities in the continental USA. But I do remember going to the Twin Cities years ago in November, and it was 50, while in Winnipeg it was 10 f. Winnipeg is one of the coldest cities in the world next to maybe Moscow Russia. And I would have taken a ride with the top down, great for you guys, enjoy the spring weather...........Frosty PS IT'S ABOUT 45 RIGHT NOW AT MY PLACE
  3. It's warmer, but as you remember living in Minnesota, spring and warm weather don't hit until April and beyond. The geese and crows are back, so are the hawks. I saw a bald headed eagle at the end of my driveway yesterday. The deer are out in the fields in huge bunches. The temp is supposed to be 50s and high of 63 on Monday.........................YEEEEEHAAAAA Spring is here in Manitoba
  4. Man can I relate to Nelson's love of these old cars, hopefully I get to ride in mine when I reach my old age, I am 45, and the way the emissions standards are going, wonder what it's going to be like in 20 to 30 years trying to drive are old Mopars................
  5. PPG and Transtar, sell a rollable polyurethane primer, if I remember correctly.
  6. Harold, if you are to topcoat with a roller, just remeber you need a very slow thinner /reducer, as you can not have the paint flashing quickly if you are to roll. You are correct in all of the reasons bodyshops, are doing some primer with rollers. I have personally rolled epoxy paint with a roller, on the inside of a fishtank.In the very beginning of auto manufacturing, cars wer painted with a brush, some were sanded and varnish was applied over, thus BC/CC was created..........Fred
  7. This is my response to someone on Autobodystore.com forum. Randy, my question is did the duplicolor primer sealer bond to the Tremclad, or was there adhesion problems with it. Tremclad and Rustoleum are a very tough paint but are Synthetic Alkyd oil based enamel paints with rust corrosion resistant properties. When you coat over it, with other systems could there be potential problems, but I have not heard of any to be honest. As far as the roller method is concerned, I know it works, from my test pieces using Tremclad (Rustoleum) paint, thinned with mineral spirits, wetsanded evry 2nd coat, after 8 thin rolled coats I then compund polished and buffed the final product. It came out well, had some swirl in it but was shiny, orange peel free and hard as a rock, after one year on my test pieces the surfaces are still hard as a rock, and could only be scratched by a sharp metal object. Wood and plastic only marred the surfaces somewhat. This method, and use of very basic oil based enamel paint is not for everyone, but if you don't have equipment, money or skill, it may be an alternative for some, and at the very least temporary, until you can afford a more traditional paint job, the prepping remains the same and the better the prep, the better the paint job can and should turn out. I know the individual (69chargeryeeha), have spoken with him may times, the quality of his work is quite good, he has also done many single stage sprayed home paint jobs, that have turned out very well, he has just taken the time to perfect this particular method. His 73 VW bug was painted with a roller in 1999, it still looks great, but it is not driven in winter weather, but is driven all summer long, he waxs and buffs the car annually. I am not trying to start a roller thread here, but when I mention this to bodyman, friends with paint experience, they all raise there noses, and say this is an inferior method using cheap house panit, that it will not stand up and looks like garbage, nothing could be farther from the truth. In the USA True Value hardware, has a paint line called XO Rust paint, I have seen a classic car," a 40 Studebaker" painted with a red color, it was reduced with mineral sprirts by 10 % and 10 % Hardner was included in the mix. This was sprayed , and wet sanded and buff and compound, it looked great, and for the occasional use might hold up well. Sorry about the long reply, I am a green newcomer to body and paint and just want to learn.
  8. thread address: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&v c=1 Re: paint job on a budget here's how i painted my car for about $50, it's actually very easy and the results are amazing. First off, get a can of tremclad real orange (or what ever color u want) in the can, not spray, yes tremclad, it is a acrylic/enamel paint which is very durable. next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow it to be painted over bare metal. next, after prepping the car get a small 4" professional FOAM rollers, it's tiny and has one end rounded off, and the other cut straight, and is a very high density foam. u also need a jug of mineral spirits to thin the paint. The thing i really like about this is that there's no mess, no tapeing the whole car, just key areas, and u can do it in your garage, since your not spraying there is virtually no dust in the air, just clean your garage first, also it does'nt really smell at all, dries overnight and it super tough paint. also it you decide to paint the car professionally later, just prep and paint, there's no need to strip the tremclad. i have done this to a few cars, and i can say it works amazing, u just have to be paitient. next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker. get out the roller and paint away, don't get the paint shaked when u buy it, enamel is stirred, otherwise you'll have bubbles in the paint for a week!!! after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand. i painted the charger using a can since your not spraying the car u use all the paint and not spray 50% in the air, use progressivly finer sand paper each time. it's not really that much work, cause u can stop and start any time, u can do just a door, or the hood, ect. do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat, wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u, depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing. laugh if you want, but for $50 ($30 for paint, about $20 for rollers, sand paper, ect...) it really looks good. also you can do these steps overnight, paint one evening and by morning u can wet sand. i have personally done alot of painting, mostly single stage acrylic enamel, and i've sprayed several cars in my garage with really good professional results, just it stinks, it's a real pain to do, easy to make a mistake, messy, and expensive. The tremclad is awesome paint, the "real orange" is an amazing hemi orange, and almost looks like it has some perl in the sun, awesome color right out of the can. I used this technique on my 1974 beetle also if you look at others that did this, it does a great job....
  9. Ed, then if you have the HVLP and air supply, why don't you try, say Rustoleum, reduced with automotive enamel reducer, with a univeral hardner/gloss agent added in with the mix. This will cost you about $75 to $80.00 insted of the $50.00. You could spray on 3 coats, wetsand with 1500, polish with a real gentle compound and the electric polisher. Last week I did a little practice with my HVLP on a deck lid, I sprayed 2 coats of primer, no sanding, then I sprayed on a coat of Wild Raspberry Tremclad. There is dust in the paint and the surface is somewhat rough, I didn't even tack the surface before spraying. My object was to learn to use the HVLP. The result is a very hard and super shiny surface, with wetsanding and polish it could come up like glass. This paint was reduced with auto enamel reducer, no gloss hardner was added. As Norm from Milwaukee mentioned , how many of us would actually drive these cars in all kinds of weather, ie snow, salt, mud gravel, major rainstorms if we can help it, thenleave it all dirty in the outside elements to gather rust and pollutants, NOT LIKELY. So apaint job like this could last a while, especially if taken care of and waxed a couple of times per year, Iknow the UV rays are evry srtong in the south, but again, are you going to leave it outside. These old cars when new, unless they had fancy lacquer paint jobs, were not shiny and wet looking like paint jobs of toady, not that there is anything wrong with the new paint looks, cause they are nice..............I am not afarid to try this, if the car is prepped well, it will look well when painted, what have you to lose, if it isn't any good break out the sander and sand down the car for a Maaco paint job.........Fred
  10. Right on Morson, glad to see you are making progress, good time to get this done just before spring. I belive some of the guys have had work done at Northwest trans, George Asche does a lot of custom work, with the trans. I am sure somone will chime in a help you out...........Fred
  11. Larry, you are a braver man then me, don't like high peaks. I have friends to do this, and I stay on the ground and supervise. I am good to about 20 ft, say on my house roof,the house is a Bi-level,with a 4/12 pitch not too bad to work on, my brother used to clean windows on a swing stage in Downtown Winnipeg buildings, going up 25 to 40 stories, but that was in his youth also.......Fred
  12. Today at my place it was about 43 degrees and it was spittin a little rain. I went to my in-laws farm, early this morning, it's about 70 mile north of here , where the terrain gets a lot more rugged lot's of pine trees, birch and wild animals. From the inlaws we went another 30 minutes north to another cattle farm and butchered a nice prime steer, it was a lot colder at this place than where I live, the steer dressed out at 600 lbs, I split the animal in 2 then split here into quarters and put here in the truck. We then took them to the in-laws farm, I then had the pleasure of carrying these quarters to the cooler house and hanging them on the hook, well the ground was slippery, there is a step into the cooler house, and the fronts weighed about 180 lbs a piece. This in itself is not bad, but fresh killed beef is sloppier than a pig in $hit,well I got the beef hung up, but man I can feel it tonight. I use to carry these carcasses onto train cars and trucks when I first got out of high school, but that was 25 years ago. My ride home was a real fun, as it was raining and it was cold enough to freeze to the highway.
  13. The phone number and website for Tanks Incorporated is, 320-558-6882, the website is www.tanksinc.com Hope[/url] this is helpful.............Fred
  14. Also Tank Inc, in Minnesota, have the steel tanks, for the exact fit for the P 15, they are $215.00, they have Stainless tanks on sale for $325.00 this month. Or you could go with a 48 Ford poly tank they manufacture it is $215.00, I will post there phone number later.........Fred
  15. This thread ain't over til Manitoba declares winter is over and it's time to start motoring, this will be in the first week in July, and we can start this thread over again in August ,hehehehe. Now seriously, my intention in starting this thread was to send greetings to you southern boys, to show you what we endure here in Manitoba Canada in winter, not that some or a lot of you guys don't also endure the harsh winter weather that we do here in Manitoba. Hopefully we can start to have spring real soon, in about 2 to 4 weeks, it is going to be in the 40s on the weekend and Monday were looking for a daytime high of 50, today it was 35. In Manitoba the guys get the classic cars and bikes out about mid April, but the real nice weather starts in May. I am as surprised as some of you are, that this thread has gone as long as it did, for me it kind of helped endure a long Canadian and USA winter, I hope it didn't annoy anyone, it was all in fun. I won't start a "Summer Is Here In Manitoba", as you southern boys have much hotter and longer summers than we do, maybe Dennis Hemmingway in the Desert of California can do that. I hope you can survive without this thread Larry ( Knighthawk), it was nice having yours and others contribution to this OT thread.......Rockwood
  16. Thanx Byron, providig the diff is from those years, would if had come from the 1951 Dodge, don't think so thouigh, because it has 11 inch brakes...........Fred
  17. Do any of you fellows know if the pumpkin can be changed in the 47 and 48 Chrysler 6 cyl cars. I have a 48 Chrysler Royal Coupe, the engine and 3 spd standard trans, and dry clutch are from a 1951 Canadian built Dodge it's a 218 long block, the diff is of unknown origin, it has the covered leaf springs characteristic of the 48 Chrysler. I could not find the stamp on the hog head to determine the gear ratio. But when I roll the car and mark the tire and the drive shaft, I get just over 4 to 1 revolutions, it's either a 4.11 or a worse 4.30. I have a 47 windsor parts car with a 3.54 diff, would like to pull the pumpkin and change it into my diff thats on the 48 now. This would sure help on the highway, it's real flat land around here, and I don't plan to pull a trailer. Any advice or help would be appreciated...........Thanx Fred
  18. Here are both sides of the floors where the toe kick areas are, they were both rusted right out or very weak. I fabbed, welded in new 18 g steel, it was then seam sealed and painted over, I will be spraying rubberized undercoating over this. I know it's not a work of art, but it's strong and sealed up and should be waterproof. Lets face it, my car will not be winter driven, or driven through rain storms, if I can help it........Fred
  19. Hi all, bought a 73 bug today from someone we know, it needs a bit to be roadworthy, but is running well at least. The one problem it has it won't go into gear when running, sounds like a clutch or release bearing problem, it was used as a daily dirver until 4 years ago. Right now it's under a mountain of snow. The one thing is, there are plenty of parts available for these cars, they are reasonably priced and we have a good soure for these items in Vancouver Canada. I ahve alwasy liked these cars, delivered pizza in them in my youth, they had propane ovens in the back to keep the pizza warm.Is anybody on this forum into these cars, if so drop me a line and let me know what you know................Rockopulco
  20. You could use POR 15 it's good stuff, or you can go with Zero Rust it's a lot cheaper and is just as good, or even Tremclad or Rustoleum, these are very good alkyd rust enamels. Or you could prime with any of these paints and spray over with 100% Rubberized Undercoating, make sure the surface is free of grease, dirt and dust before you paint, all joints can be sealed with autobody seam sealer, either the brushable or caulking gun style...........Fred
  21. Post some pics , if you can of your problem areas. Then maybe we can suggest a repair metod......Fred
  22. Here is a pic of the floor supports I made for my 48 Chrysler, It also eliminates the stock rocker, but for the outside of the car you can't tell the difference, this is very strong, much sronger that what was on there in the first place. I will also post a pic of my floors in side of the car.......Fred ps I have since cleaned up under here and will be spraying this are with rubberized rockerguard spray.both sides of this floor were roted out, I welded in new sheet metal, it was my very first attempt at this, welded in new metal, seam sealed, could have used filler and created a much smoother joint, but who sees it under the carpet, I still will be giving the entire floor another coat of black 100% rubberized undercoating, I did not use any rivets, all the welds were stitched into a solid weld, I did use screws to hold the sheet metal firmly in place and welded in the srew holes afterwards
  23. To be honest a lot of these cars have rust along the toe kick areas, rockers where the floor supports join in,the floors in the trunk. How is your front cowl to the frame supports are they good and strong, what about the body mount supports to the frame itself, are they intact, if so it may not be all that bad. I once had a guy come out and give me an estimate for the repairs, he looked at the job, took pictures made negative comments and left, he then sent me a quote for $3500.00 to do the job, which incidently he was going to take 3 months to do the job, in his spare time. You know where I told him to go, don't you. I bought a welder, learned to weld a bit, a friend gave me lots of 18 gauge tin, and I went to work, I did not have a fancy plasma cutter, just an angle grinder with cut off wheels a jig saw, a sawsall, tin snips of various types and lots of encouragement form this forum and it's members and some help form my friends. If you like I can send you some pics of my floors, they aren't works of art, but sturdy, and durable. Good luck, post some pics of your problem areas of your floors, I can guarantee they are no where near as bad as Robert Becks 56 Buick Convert in Hemmings Classic car magazine, his car had no floors left, even the trans hump was rotten, which doesn't usually happen, this car was a total rust bucket, he brought it back to life, and now his car is being featured for a few months on his restoration..................Fred
  24. Hi, how does one test a 2 wire gas tank sending unit. I have mine out(it's from a 47 Chrysler), and would like to test it before re-using it.........Thanx Fred
  25. I have a single exhaust Smithy on my 48 Chrysler, it sounds pretty good, not as good as the duals, but it is a respectable sound........Fred
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