55 Fargo Spitfire

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Everything posted by 55 Fargo Spitfire

  1. Hi all, 55 Fargo, hauled the rubbish to the dump, then get a free load of vinyl siding and old telephone pole pieces. Let's here from those who used their trucks to do what they were intended to do, and thats "Work"...
  2. Its amazing sometimes, especially with a flatter sheen, the paint levels out and lays down once drying, and the slower it dries the more it can level. Isn't it you that was 1 of my coaches way back with spray painting...
  3. Rustoleum Corp usually recommends Acetone to 10% as a reducer, but again other solvents including plain old stoddard solvents like mineral spirits could be used, but is a super cold solvent compared to Acetone. I personally like Xylene with alkyd synthetic enamels and works werlll if the right mix is attained and with the correct spraygun and its' setting.. Zero Rust is a decent quality enamel based paint, and a lot cheaper than POR 15 which is a moisture cure urethane based coating..
  4. Depending on the spraygun, tip size, ambient temps. I reduce this type of paint fairly thin, then shoot on a mist coat or a light coat then 2 heavier coats. The orange peel is the paint is thick, or your gun setting not right. Use a generic enamel hardener too, dries and cures much much faster. Use Xylene, or Dupli Color medium speed reducer. 1.7 tip is a cannon, and meant for heavier paints, primers etc. I would use a 1.4 or 1.5 tip, reduced approximately 20-30 % with 10 % hardener......
  5. Nothing wrong with this choice. Even the newest formula for Rotella, has plenty enough ZDDP and additives that are light years ahead of any oils in the 1940s-70s, for our low valve spring pressured engines.
  6. Maybe your 2 "likers" can add some too ............
  7. Okay are we "chasing our tails" on this thread. I mentioned above or possible another thread on "overheating". Pull the rad, send it out for boiling and clean up, its a honeycomb rad? if so no rodding is possible.. Pull the water waterpump, and remove the water distribution tube, clean and verify its in good condition. Next pop open the lower welch plugs, rod these areas out of crud, flush frontwards and backwards, this should clean up the engine well enough. Its wont be a like a hot tanking but should be quite good. Oil on your drain plug is probably the results of engine blowby from the filler cap area washing down the side of the block. Is your rad an original honeycomb type, this needs to be cleaned up well, or replaced with a nice new aluminum rad as an option. All these flush kits are meant for lightly crudded engines, not some 70 year old beast that had gallons of hard well water used at times and old antifreeze over the decades. Stop looking for a quick fix, clean this out well, and your overheating troubles will be gone...........
  8. If it don't flow, unbolt it, and use a pick and get the crud out to make it flow...
  9. Well of course thats the most likely plan. Decisions to be made this fall.
  10. Okay so about to embark on my Chrysler New process A 833 trans transplant. This unit is from a truck, with a final drive ratio of .71 in 4th, and no ridiculous 4.03 or even a 3.76 for 1st like an S10 T5. Being a .71 overdrive, highly likely well guaranteed it will not play nice with my present 3.23 , at 65 70 mph, it will be between 1800- 1950 rpm, probaly not so good in hills or any head wind. Cruising below 2000 rpm, may or may not be that great for the engine, and it may lug and bog at times. I am already fully aware that it makes peak torque at 1200 rpm, so am a little confused as to why it should not cruise on the hghway at 1800 to 2000 RPM. I would foresee downshifting back to 3rd a lot at times, no big deal I suppose. I will be swapping my rear gear to 3.55 or better yet 3.73. Once I begin this swap, it will be fully documented, it should be easier and smoother than a T5 swap, no bell housing to be pulled, no holes to drill and tap, just swap clutch disc, and bolt on adapter and trans, and the usual cut new hole, and do a driveshaft.
  11. Hey all, been close to 4 months, so figured I would "bump" this thread, and keep it alive and breathing. I have been extremely busy since April, with work, and family commitments, so unfortunately have not tackled the A833 swap, the trans is ready, have my drive shaft donor. I need to have my clutch rebuilt, and a new disc made, which is being done locally. Most if not all of the A833 adapter plates were and are sold, and many conversions have been completed, most if not all of those, are by folks who do not hang around internet web sites. I can almost share the sentiment, but some time ago GTK did share with me he and many members are looking forward to the swap and its process. So at this point, I may do this swap very shortly, or it may be shelved for a little while, and the only reason I might shelf it temporarily, is to rebuilt my 265 engine, as my 228 is tired, has leaky cylinders, and do not want to do a trans swap full well knowing the engine needs to be pulled for replacement, but who knows, will make a decision real soon. So those interested, whether you are contemplating the A833 swap, or are in the T5 camp and want to see the end results, buckle up, and hang tight, it won't be long........ The Fargo, at sunset, what a beautiful thing....
  12. Fargo at Sunset, what beautiful site.....
  13. Okay, here we have it, the no nonsense "Mopar For Mopars" solutions blog. This is a blog where any or all Mopar solutions can be entered, added, discussed and debated. I am not limiting this to the Chrysler flathead 6 engine, so other Mopar Engines, Drive lines, Transmissions, Ignitiion, Electrical and Suspension, Steering and Brakes. So please share what and how you have done something, utilizing Ma Mopar components and Parts. If you are contemplating some modification however radical post your progress and results. Off topic brands and posts will be deleted, so keep this Mopar as the title suggests. There has been a lot of discussion, Thread Themes, and Ideas that are not Mopar based, so here we have the Topic that focuses on a Chryco answer for our needs.
  14. Great News Jeff, no engine transplants, T5 conversions, and the truck now can handle your area traffic. The way you most likely drive, your engine should be good for a long time yet.........
  15. I concur 100% buy another 265 or at the very least a 250. Stay away from the 218 or 228s, underpowered for your needs...
  16. Interesting cooling system monitor..
  17. How about some more info on your "overheating symptoms"? Was this rad cleaned out?, did you ever pull the waterpump and water distribution tube and clean them out and to verify its condition? Many times the engine coolant passage get crudded up, and you need to pull frost plugs and clean them out. Anyways, give us an update of the overheating temps, symptoms and what has been done to date......
  18. I don't know how the Langdon truck T5 kit is going to help any car owner, unless you have a truck bell housing. BETO, do some homework and see what you are getting your self into, check out some of my posts with regard to T5 NWC early S10 lousy gear ratios, and not just plug and play for your Coronet. There are a lot better considerations for an overdrive for the cars, namely a Borg and Warner R10...... Heck I would rather have a stock 3 spd trans, and more modern diff with highway friendly gears than a chevrolet S10 trans. BTW, is this intended for your car, or do you have a truck, isn't your car fluid drive, that is a whole different movie...
  19. Yah like you were suggested, put a "vacuum gauge" on it, and report back your findings..
  20. You are correct, especially with #1 cylinder, furthest away from the fuel source, and potentially the leanest, not sure why this wasn't very evident to the poster you quoted. But yes the Siamese ports, being 3 and a stock 1 bbl carb induction with a 1 bbl to 2bbl adapter, could very well have very uneven fuel distribution especially to cyl 1 and 6....
  21. I get yah, been breathing air since 710 PM CST on 1961-11-21, and still sometime forget how to....LOL I figure you want to help out and see this through with Reg....thanx
  22. George Asche should be able to make you a triple carb intake from s stock manifold. He rebuilds carbs and makes great linkage sets As Well as splitting exhaust manifolds. Contact Tim Kingsbury on this forum via PM
  23. Yes, and if it's already running leaner, it may combust better at higher altitudes I suppose.......
  24. Now now, Reg is on fact finding mission, no reason to get impatient. I think Reg knows what he has to do to fix this up, he has been playing with these Mopar flatheads since 1965......
  25. Well engine can run hot, manifolds could end up being red hot, backfiring, popping on deceleration. Sluggish, but possibly running better at higher altitudes...