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55 Fargo

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Everything posted by 55 Fargo

  1. One other question, the area under the car directly below the back window on a Coupe, this would be the area behind the back seat window crank area. This area down below where the rockers would be was normally closed in, now over the years moisture and crud would sit there and rot through. Now I have sealed this area up again, should I drill drain holes for water, or is this an invitation for exhaust gas to come in. When its raining out, and the car is out in the rain, how much water will travel down the windows into the door cavities or this area under the back window. Just thinking about this, would be nice to leave this area open as all water would drain out, but then the dust would come right in............Fred
  2. I believ the glass froma Plymouth, Dodge, Desoto, Chrysler Club Coupe from 1946 to 1948 will fit. Have someone if you can check the Hollanders book, to make sure of the interchangeability. I bought a parts coupe just to get back window formy 47 Chrys Club Coupe.Good luck on your search, hope one turns up for you........Fred
  3. Good morning Norm and Tim, and it is a fine morning here in Southern Manitoba, sunny and 72 for today. The hanger right now is mounted from the frame section that is arched and goes from one frame rail to the other in the back, it will need to be fixed up some in order to be more stable. The trouble with having a car not on the road officially is, it's hard to get to the muffler shop to have a pro do the install. So I will have the tail pipe section made using the old one as a guide, I will then install and hopefully it will be okay, not sure I am going to keep the Smithy or go with a regular muffler yet, the Smithy sounds good, just not sure if it suits the car, plus when the rpm is up there at 55mph, a regular muffler may sound quieter........Fred
  4. Now that were on exhaust systems, does anybody have any pics of the muffler hanger and where it is supposed to mount. I have a single Smithy on my car, but the exhaust pipe i think maybe be too long, will have to shorten it, hang the pipe better, then install the tail pipe. My exhaust system was made using the old pipes for the templates. I do know that with no tail pipe, I have smelled exhaust in the car, as the areas under the back windows were open, one side is repaired with new sheet metal, the other side is next, a coat of seam sealer and once the door panels are back on it should be fairly good and sealed.....thanx Fred
  5. Thanx everyone, I agree exhaust systems are the key, the one on my car is new, have not put on a tail pipe yet though, but it will go on, that means the system is new front to back.........Fred
  6. Hi all, was thinking about this tonight, as i have done a lot of major floor repairs to my car, most of it welded and every joint seam sealed. But I am no professional car builder/restorer, and can't help to think, there is no way I can completely seal this old car. Now I don't believe these old cars were probably completely sealed right from the factory, as car builders of the time probably did not have the exactness on the assembly lines. Now I was thinking as I have young kids, if my floor is sealed up and the interior of the car is sealed as best as I can get it,my exhaust system is new front to back, it should be pretty good. Now my uncle was telling me a story of some relatives back in the 50s , they were driving an old 30s or 40s car, the car was was not sealed and there 2 kids got carbon monoxide poisoning in the back seat, and the parents thought they had just fallen asleep, tragic but true. I was thinking of keeping a battery operated carbon monoxide alarm in the car, would this be good insurance, would it work, I would not want my kids or anyone else getting CO poisoning in my car.....Just a thought Fred
  7. Thanx Greg, actually took a piece of cured foam, and tried the following, hit it with primer, painted it, put seam sealer on it, and put some bondo on it. They all bonded to the foam with no problems, nor did it melt the foam. A friend of mine told me he once repaired a rust hole in a fender with this foam, he then primed it, glazed and painted, he said it lasted quite a while too. Now I wouldn't do that kind of repair, but at least I know you can coat this foam if need be.........Fred
  8. Thanx guys, the shadetree fix, has worked. The T/stat housing is not leaking. I found out you can buy these t/stat housings from Andy Bernbaum for $29.95. Yes it is metal and not cast, I think you could use either, but it would be better to stick with the oem type. The 1951 and later blocks were designed different for the internal by-pass water bump, so it would be best not to mess with it. Infact the external by-pass pumps cannot be used on the internal by-pass engines, but you can use the internal by-pass pump on an external engine, go figure. Found this out on another Mopar site. But as I was puring in antifreeze at 1:00 in the morning, I slopped it on the floor, I did wipe it up, but what is a good way to wash the concrete floor and with what cleaner.............Fred
  9. Hi all, decided to pull my t/stat tonight, the antifreeze came out clean as a whistle, should be a good sign. When I reinstalled the t/stat and housing, I immediately noticed a pinhole leak, I had to drain the coolant right quick. What I did was clean the housing, and applied a coating of high temp silicone. I had forgotten I did this before in this housing as it had been leaking. I should have used JB Weld, but didn't have any at home, so tried the silicone. Will let it cure overnight and see what happens. This t/stat housing is the type without the short hose for the external bypass. Now I do have the short hose type t/stat housing here also, but can you use them on a 1951 engine that has the internal type by-pass, that came without the short hose t/stat housing, or would it cause a problem............Thanx Fred
  10. Allan, all Canadian L head 6 blocks were cast in Windsor Ontario since 1937. They were used for P,D,C,D, are they all the same casting, I would think so, so if that be the case, you should be able to bore to the sized you have mentioned, if all is the same, ie the blocks. The Chrysler 251, was a 3 7/16 bore and a 4 1/2 stroke. If these blocks were all the same, you should be good to go. The difference betwen the engines was crank, stroke and bore, but I think the blocks were all the same, made in the Chrylser engine plant in Windsor...Fred
  11. Thanx Greg, yes I have some at home, it works great. On the inside of the car I applied some waterproof urethane expandable foam, it filled up the voids real quick like. I know this is a shade tree fix, but I am not sure what do with this right now. because this is an area under the car, I can still perform surgery under there even if the car is painted, the interior is done, chrome is new. It won't make any difference, as it will be underneath and would not hurt anything on the car up above. It's not like trying to do rockers, or floors after the car is all painted and has a new interior in it. I am just a little nervous about DMV Safety, they are done privately up here so I will probably get someone who is most concerned with things other than perfect panel repairs, will probably cost me a few more dollars to have him come to my place and dot the inspection, we do have inspectors here that do housecalls...........Fred
  12. Brad a paint system like this, most likely you would not be able to roll, as the paint would flash far to quick. The roller method is used with a mineral spirit based paints, it dries ever so slow, after you roll on thinned tremclad or rustoleum, the paint self levels before it dries, it is ideal for rolling, you need to thin the paint about 25% about the consistency of 1% milk, a little thicker than water, 6 to 10 coats, with wetsanding and bufffing and polishing at the end. I went to this link, not sure if I missed the article you were referring to.........Fred
  13. If you are using mineral spirits to thin, and your coats, have minimal peel, and you wet sand with say 1000 to 1500. Then use just elcheapo Turle Wax white polish, it's mildly abrasive. this will bring back the shine. Looking forward to your pics, I have tried this method before with test pieces, was always pleased with the results. Nice thing about painting like this is, no overpsray, dust, doghair in paint, less masking to worry about. It's ideal for the home garage without decent equipment that you need to do quality paint work. I have seen many very examples of cars painted like this, some were excellent, and some were just okay. But the price was always right, and heck if it does'nt look good, just sand it down and paint over or go to Macco.......Fred
  14. Thanx Bob, I guess this isn't as common area for rust out as I thought, as there werent any responses from the guys on this forum. Maybe rust-out is only common in this area of these cars originating from the north or eastern USA and parts of Canada.But you are right, it is a real bugger to try and do a decent repair in this area, when the body is on the frame and not turned over on a rotisserie. To make this shape, you can use a piece of cardboard place it against the curved area, under this area ,mark it with a marker you then transfer this to your sheet metal and cut it out. At least thats what I tried to do, as you can see the piece patched in my photo...........Thanx Fred
  15. Last night I was thinking, did these cars ever have a real tight seal in these areas, I don't mean gaping holes or voids. For example the bolt on floor plate, the brake and clutch pedals, even with draft stops, these I am sure were not 100% sealed. I am not looking for an easy-out, but my main goal is no exhaust gas and excessive road dust in the cabin of the car. Now some vehicle inspectors, go crazy on these areas, and some concentrate on brakes, exhaust, front end, lighting , etc. I think it was Don C, that said he used truck cap weather strip foam to seal his floor plate before it was bolted down. I don't feel like redoing my floors, in this area, Hind sight is 20/20, but want to fix this to be functionable. Any ideas or opinions welcomed............Fred
  16. Hi all, the area that goes under the car from behind the kick panel area. Mine were rusted out when I got the car, but when I did my floor repairs, I only ran new sheet metal up to and along the kick panel inside the car, I should have run the sheet behind the kick panel and try to seal the area off from the outside air. Now I am trying to repair this area, it is a real"beach" of an area to work in and the shape is rounded, it's almost impossible to weld up there, and the one patch I did looks the $hits, but I am determined to repair this area. What have some of you guys done,no doubt this area is or was rotted out on some your cars, looks to be a real good area to trap moisture and dirt. I was thinking of sealing off the kick panel area from inside the car, leaving it open underneath, it would be good drainage. As long as I can seal the kick panel , and no gases or air can come inside the car, I will be in business. Any ideas from some of you fellows..........Thanx Fred BTW the one pic is from under the car looking straight up to the area under the kickpanel
  17. David, nothing is showing up on my computer, did you include an attachment..Rockwood
  18. Hi all, this past weekend, my Father and I built this cedar playhouse for the kids, it will be finished this week, then moved to its location near the garden and trees. My friend is going to bring over the bobcat and make the move, as this baby is around 700 lbs already. This not only makes the kids happy, it makes the wife happy, and now I can spend some more time on the car, there is a method to my madness.......LOL Fred
  19. Hi all, it's 65 degrees, with a blanket of mosisture and it's like a humid tropical jungle outside, if it were 15 degrees warmer it would be killer. It is misty cloudy and 100 % humidity right now.But the trees, grass and flowers love it. I have ecently planted about 30 new pinetrees in my yard, 1 to 2 footers, they were wild ditch trees, they are lovin this weather, and so amI, don't have to water them nightly.......Fred
  20. Robert, where in Canada do they sleeve wheel cyls, as I might be interested in this, could you send me a PM or email......Thanx Fred
  21. Hi all, Tremclad does market there product to be used on bare steel. But they also recommend, using primer with excessively rusty metal, pitted metal, galvanized metal. It's anyones choice. Go to www.Moparts, you will see 69chargeryeeha's cars.They were all painted without primer, the 73 VW Bug and the 69 Charger, in fact the hood and front fenders were aftermarket fibreglass, that he bought brand new. I personally like primer, especially on exterior car sheetmetal. Infact my car is Tremclad grey primer, reduced with 25% Automotive enamel reducer, (yes they are compatible), the primer was sprayed on with HVLP, 3 coats wet on wet. I also know I can use bondo, epoxy, urethane, auto enamel right over the Tremcalad primer as long as it is fully cured, about 1 month full curing time, this primer is way superior to lacquer based primer.........Fred
  22. Al, here in Manitoba Canada in a near by town there is an auto electric shop that makes 6 volt positive ground GM single wire alts for around $100.00 US. If your interested I may be able to connect you with George of Georges Auto Electric, in Selkirk Manitoba..........Fred
  23. Greg, do a practice run on the hood or a door. Follow the methods perfected by the others on www. moparts .com, I know it will come off well, I think your friends and relatives will have dropped jaws when you tell them the stude was painted with a roller. Of course the prep work is no different than a conventional paint job, the better the prep, the better the finished product......Let us know how things go on this project.Fred
  24. Okay lets go at this step by step. Now it's overheating, what temp does the gauge read, is it working and fairly accurate. Does the rad boil over, when and under what circumstances. Or is it running just hot after a run when she is warmed up, is it over 200 degrees. If the temps in your locale are over the 90 mark and humid, your engine could run warmer than if it was 40 degrees. Work to date, new rad, new water pump, new t/stat, ( what temp), r and r water tube and flush block. Is the fan belt tight and your fan on the right way, is it close enough to the rad. What happens if you pull the t/stat in warm/hot weayher, does it settle down and run cooler. Is your timiing correct, if it isn't advance enough it could run hotter. Have you also taken a temp reading in the rad with a cooking thermometer, or can you access an infared temp reading gauge and pinpoint where the engine is hot. On your next reply, give us as many details as you can, this way myself and the ohters can possibly help diagnose the situation, I have had this concern with my car, and got a lot of help on this forum from the P15 D24 Brotherhood.............Fred
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