55 Fargo

Wow Pete, I thought it was bad here in Sunny Manitoba, as we someitmes get a big snowfall on Halloween, or in November at least. Mind you at higher elevations anything is possible this time of year...........Fred ps although it is miserable here tonight and supposedly for the next 48 hours, we have not had frost here yet, tonights low is 39 degrees though

Shel, Not only have you been a big help, you are a humble man on top of things..............Fred

Hi all, with the help of Shel, I have taken apart my clock, cleaned and gave her a little oil in key areas. It is running great on the bench, will let her run a few days with a lantern battery to make sure she will run properly. These clocks are the neatest things to watch with there cover off, had never seen one like this from the inside.................Fred

Hey, I like the interior on the truck, and man we have a lot of oak trees around here too, so I do live in Redneck country, you see.........Fred

One thing I know for sure, not trying to be cocky, but I don't see re-covering these old seats as that difficult. If I were to buy pre-made kits, or have someone sew up my covers, complete with padding and pleats, could be real straightforward install. Most of it goes on with hog rings, these covers I made up, went on with very tough nylon string, a hole was made every 2 inches, this was also doubleoverlapped, then I tied it to the seat frames, just a quickie job to freshen things up a bit, will obviously do,or have the real thing done later...............Fred

Hi All, used some Mexican Blanket material and recovered:eek: the front seat, will do for now Until I can find some wrecking yard upholstery or buy and sew proper material...............Fred

On the R10, what is the ratio reduction in OD, maybe I should start looking around the prairie Provinces in Canada for one. Could go nice with my current diff, or would be nice with a 3.54, in od you could cruise all day at 70 mph............Fred

Bob, Dave and Bob, thanx for your replies, No I don't find the wiring on these cars intimidating in the least bit, I do find the schematic a little hard to follow in spots. Money or lack of, necessitates my doing the re-wire myself, I don't mind however, find it somewhat relaxing, I would find a trans intimidating as compared to this. The tank is out of the car, I have the sedning unit wired up to the gauge, maybe I did not have the sending unit grounded well enough in my test, will try again...........Thanx Fred

Hi all, decided to cawl under the dash and have a good look, will need to replace a lot of wiring, but it ain't lookin to complicated. The first thing I did change was to re-route the dash panel lights to the panel switch, I also ran the light to the clock and water temp gauge too. The hot wire for the panle light switch comes off the main light switch. The idea is that the panel light would always have power to it, you just need to use the panel switch to keep the lights off in the dash. But on my switch, the panel lights would only go on, when the patk lights were turned on, and when the headlights were turned on they would go off. I looked at the schematic for both C38 and P15, tried to move the connections on the light switch around, but the same result followed, except whatever lead I plugged into the panel light spot on the main switch, would turn off when you would open the switch all the way. For now, until I re-wire the car, I ran a new hot wire from the hot lead at the circuit breaker attached to the light switch, to my panel switch, my panel lights nowwork any time you pull on its own switch. The clock light, which I had to make, as the original was no where to be seen, does not light the clock up much, is there a special light that goes inside or something. Also ran 2 wires from fuel gauge to sending unit, tried everything, can not get the gauge to move a bit, don't know what isn't working the gauge or the sending unit.............Fred

Darin, Dave is AKA Grey Beard

Believe or not Dave, I was thinking about this already, now the creative juices are flowing, and it doesn't have to be a permanent thing, it could be used for years as temporary, till I can afford the real thing. Now to find a yard that will let me strip of the interior. How to I remove it, do I cut i out carefully, or will it remove very easily, any ideas.........Fred

Here is the before pic,(would not take on a project this roughagain) , hereis what its like now, about 1/2 way finished, well maybe 1/2 to always being finished:D

That is correct, mine is a 47 and part 48, the body and frame is a 48 Royal Club Coupe, the front clip is a 47 Windsor, the windows and seats are form a 48 Windsor parts car. The engine and dry clutch, 3spd standar trans, are all from a 1951 canadian built Dodge long Block 218. The rearned is from ????, it is I think 4.30, or a 4.10, it has 11 inch brakes, 8 leaf covered springs. The fron end is from a Dodge or Plymouth, the wishbones, tie rods,steering knuckles are also from a Plymouth or Dodge, it has 10 inch brakes up front. The brakes are all re-done, I would have gone back to 11 inch up front, but didn't know better at the time, more than likely they will be converte to disc, so there you have it, my car is a real Frankensteins daughter..Fred

Sorry, it is not a new harness, I ran new wires for the turn signal flashers from the hot wire to the flasher to the front terminal block, for the signal lights, the rest of the wire is a mish-mash of some original and new, all the lighting has newer wire, but I am still replacing it, because it is 16 or 18 gauge. The new wire is 14 gauge, except for the high beams I will use 12 gauge as per factory spec. I have used 12 gauge for the heater motor and switch and from the power source. My dome lighting, and map lighting are all new 14 gauge wire, I have used different colors, although not as per factory spec. The engine harness, and the dash harness, I will make my own out of 12 and 14 gauge wire, the horns and horn relay will be 10 gauge wire. Over time this car was messed around with by well meaning individuals, but they paid little attention to the OEM schematics. Interestingly enough, I wired in the fuel sending wires, to the gauge, as my tank is out. I could not get the gauge to react to moving the sending unit float. The fuel gauge has other wires on the top 2 terminals, again it was wired wrong, thses wires should be on the 3rd bottom terminal or coming from the ammeter gauge. I will correct this when I completely rewire the car this winter, I also plan on installing a fuse panel, but will still keep the factory circuit breakers in there correct places. Lots of fun, but wiring the car is my most favorite job, I find it very relaxing and it causes me to think, about the ciruitry. It is not grunt work like cleaning the undercarriage with a body on, but it looks real nice under there now....................Fred

Norm this set up has only one pilot dash bulb for the flasher,and for this car do you mean I should wire in another bulb, the other light bulb area in the dash is for the high beams, is the Chrylser different than the P 15 in this respect

Hi all, was doing some wiring in the car, actually plan to rewire 90 % of it this winter, the other 10 % is brand new. My signals work great, but on the right side, the flashers runs quicker and the signal pilot light on the dash does not light up, on the left side they work perfectly. Any ideas on this on, I have tried a number of things, but no luck, possibly a weaker ground, a wire with a slight break or short, no idea, maybe a weak flasher. Lastnight I wired in my starter button, I have a lter model mopar ignition switsh, I just eliminated the starter wire and ran a new one from the starter button and wired it as per the schematic, wired in the auto-door, dome lamp and map lights. Also wired in the ebrake lights, these are coll,as it flashes the light under tha dash to indicate the brake is on. I even wired in my aftermarket temp gauge light, added a ground wire for it, even though it's 12 v, it lights up not bad............Fred ps I was at it until1:30 am last night, today I was under the car trying to finishe the frame and floor cleanup and paint, 70 % done, maybe by the weeken all finished

Greg, that's great, enjoy the trip, let us know how things are going and have a good time...........Fred psare the new back tires making a difference speed and gas mileage wise

Here is a pic of the dash today, still need to polish chrome, paint wheel, and install radio, but it ain't lookiin too bad.............Fred

Hi all, last night I felt enrgenic, so I decided to correct some of the wiring under dadh, most of it will be re-wired this winter, but need to take car of some of it now. I rewired the turn signal falsher, and moved it to it's proper location, under dash attached. I then wired in the ebrake light, it is neat, it now lfashe when you turn the key to on. I also wired in the original starter button, I have a later model ignition switch, but I just bypassed the starter part to the starter button, works great and looks good, I like it.I also mounted the aftermarket temp gauge under dash, on an angle for easy viewing for the driver, evn wired in the 12 volt light, had to create a ground for it, it lights up not bad at 6 volts. Since I was on a roll, I wre-ired the map lights, the dome light, the automatic door switch, now my lights come on when I open the passenger dorr, didn't see a spot for the drivers side, so I will mod this when wiring, the hand switches for the map and dome lights are all working good also. Ths only problem is the auto door sitch, is dirty or something, it doesn't light up once in a while, proably some corrosion somewhere on it. I was up till 1:30 am, doping this man I amtired today, still cleaning under car today also before it gets too cold..Fred

Here is apioc of the front seat, the back is more or less the same, the material and padding is till on the seats, just very dirty and rough. I plan on doing what a few of the others have done, make new covers and install with new foam and padding...........Fred

Here is a pic of the almost finished product, need to get the radio in, polish the chrome, change the speedo glass, and clean in behind it. I hope to repair steering wheel cracks, with epoxy filler, then paint to match. This color is appearing brighter in pics, but is darker in natural light. Not a show winner but a lot better than it was...........Fred

Ed, must be raining from the Twin Cities all the way to Winnipeg, its a foggy mist here right now.

Thanx Guys, it came off real well, the paint looks great under a very bright shop light, very little dust/specs in it. At one point I had a run in the paint, just above the instrument panel, I grabbed a paper towel soaked with thinner, gave it a wipe and sprayed right over it again, whew, just in time

Hi Frank, the Royals here in Canada, sometimes or maybe most times came with a fluid drive and 3 spd trans, in the shop manuals, it is listed to have a 3.90 diff, whether these did or not, I am not sure. This diff I have, is of unknown origin, the man that installed it in the car in the early 80s, does not remember where it came from. He said the folks out in the back country were poor and probably put in any diff that would work, it is 40s or very early 50s though. The brakes are 11 inch, springs 8 and covered, looks identical to my 3.54 diff in parts car, plan to switch hog head sometime in future..........................Fred ps I do not plan to return to fluid drive at this point, I do have one and a semi-auto trans, not sure of there condition though. I am notsure I would want to mess with them to get it all back in condition, the 3 spd and dry clutch are very simple and reliable. My car has a Canadian long block 218 ( I also own 2 -251s, one is still running), 3 spd trans, dry clutch and this 4.30 diff installed in 1983, it was never driven,the donor car where it came from, was a 1951 Dodge, that was smashed up, but had relatively low miles, I have been told. So my car is a custom, even though it all mopar and is still a flathead. Mind you I could go with the fluid drive and 3spd trans as a Royal should be

Is it possible to have my door and trunk lock re-keyed, do the doors and trunk, share the same key,I don't even have an original ignition switch, I have a later model mopar key and switch to start the engine, would like to get an original type , I do have the starter button...........Fred PS the one on my car is from a 1951 Dodge, would trade this for a 46 to 48 Mopar switch and key, or at least if I could find a switch, I could buy a new key and key cylinder, even my parts car did not have the right ignition switch.