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55 Fargo

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Everything posted by 55 Fargo

  1. Looks like it may be the Train Bridge that goes over Archibald Street, near Provencher Blvd, in old St Boniface, the French District of Winnipeg, but I am not 100 % sure, but it sure looks like it..........Fred
  2. Hi all, went for about a 25 mile cruise today, it was 60 sunny and very beautiful outside, a perfect fall day. Drove to the city of Selkirk MB, north on Breezy Point Hwy. It was a real scenic dirve, the road winds along the historic Red River, all kinds of boats on the water, float planes at a landing, shore line was filled with fisherman. This a very historic area of Manitoba, old Stone forts and churches, very lush River Shore line.The car ran great, temp 170 or so, oil pressure 45, speed 50 mph max, as the 4.30 diff is winding up good. The car steered and cornered very well, and it still needs an alignment. The xhaust smell is till in the car, need to get the tail pipe on, pronto. Gas consumption, 16 to 18 miles to the gallon, not bad at all. This was a real great ride, was gone about 45 minutes or so, a big thrill for me.............Fred
  3. Pat, if it is Emerson Manitoba, it would be at the North Dakota/Manitoba border, which is Hwy 75 from Winnipeg, then it is I-29 ND, been down this road many times in my life...........Fred
  4. Mr B., I would buy new cyls, unless you are sure thay are really pit free, if they are they could be cleaned up, and new kits installed, if you buy new go with Reybestos brand, NOS and install new rubber,rather than buy offshore stuff. But if you think they are pretty good inside, clean-up and install new kits, or take to brake and clutch shop, let them clean them and install the kits, a lot of times the experienced guys no how to hone these bays out, and how to tell if they are going to be okay, Just my thoughts, hope it all works out...........Rocky ps, if you are going to do the MC, which is a good thing, if suspect, buy new brake lines, and hoses, heck put all new, then your good to go for a long time and with a completely fresh start, you could use Dot 5 brake fluid, greta if the car sits for long periods of time, I am using it and am not sorry I did
  5. Ididn't mean for this to be the dumbest question of the year on the forum, but having my exhaust piped to the very back of the car, as it should be, will this make a big difference.........Fred
  6. Greg, do yah think this wold give the Crashler the custom look. Sorry it sounded like a dum question, but I want to make sure I have this done right, don't need to gas my self with pleasure..........Fred
  7. Hey Claybill, It sounds great the Smithy that is, yah, suppose that was a no-brainer. I had to do a lot of floor rust repair and such, just wanted to make sure it wasn't my floor patch job. Having a tail-pipe exhausting evrything out the back will no doubt cure this............Duhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!
  8. Hi all, I have sealed up the floor, the trunk area, but I still smell exhaust, in the car. I did drill drain holes down at the bottom of the rocker area under the 1/4 windows, I do not have door panels on yet. My exhaust sytem is new, pipe from manifold to Smithy Muffler, but no tail pipe yet. Could this be the problem, no tail pipe, the exhaust s coming out of the muffler right under the car just under the seat area. I suppose there might be some tiny voids allowing in exhaust gas, and with no tail pipe it is probably 10 times worse, because the gas is exiting under the car, instead of out behind it.........Fred
  9. Hi, was just buying oil at Wallyworld for my daily drivers and lawn tractor.I noticed the Wal Mart brand straight 30 and 40 motor oil, it's very cheap,price wise, about $7.00 a gallon. Is this oil a decent product, if so would like to put the 30 or 40 into my flathead. Anybody esle ever use this brand of oil, if not I will go and use Castrol GTX 20 W 50, but it's twice the price..........Fred
  10. Lou, I am due for an oil change, would like to go with 20/50, as I have miles on this engine, what brand is a good bet.
  11. Iam currently using Shell Rotella T 15 W 40 oil, it is a good quality oil, meant for severe conditions, good for heavy equipment, farm machinery,gas or diesel. BTW, how much sludge did you get out of your oil pan, did you also get a new oil filter..........Fred
  12. Eric, it ain't much different north of the border, Turkey with all the trimmings, Pumpkin Pie, Roast Ham, maybe some meatballs. The reason ours is i October, is the harvest in Canada is earlier, and winter is earlier, so the harvest is in and it's time to be thankful.............Fred ps not sure if that is 100 % but it sounds good
  13. Hey Ed, thats excellent, good fuel mileage too.............Fred
  14. Glad to hear you solved the problem and it worked out..........Fred
  15. Beautiful car Robert, if I can get mine to 50 % of that I will be happy.......Fred
  16. Pat, that don't look like a 49 Chrashler, how about some update pics of your car...............Fred
  17. Happy Thanksgiving from Sunny Manitoba, all the best to the canuck memebers of this forum..........fred
  18. That is a good story Charlie, my Uncle sold a 50s Ford 1/2 ton to his son in-law, the truck was in Manitoba (mid-Canada). His son-in-law and his daughter drove the old truck (unrestored) all the way to Vancouver BC on the west coast 1500 miles away, in early winter. He was running water or not enough antifreeze, they stopped overnight in the mountains of BC, that night the block cracked, but they made it all the way the next day to Vancouver, where the weather is a lot warmer........Fred
  19. Good morning all, just got back from another successful mission, 15 miles that is. Temp outside 40, engine temp 165, ran at 35 mph on rough gravel road, and 50 mph on abandoned Sunday morning highway. The way she was running it could have gone maybe a 100 miles no problem, but don't want to presumptious. The car has rattles, no carpet and door panels. I am going to put some kind of carpet down , even for temporary to quiet things down. The car steered and handled very nice on pavement. With new taller tires, a front end alignment, she should be good to go, plus I need to deal with the 4.30 diff. Sorry to banter about this, but it's agood feeling when you are able to take out the old Mopar for a spin...........Fred
  20. Just been down this road, the starter drive was hangin up on the shaft. I took it in, they cleaned it up, fixed the over running clutch and magic, the starter works fine now. Lou avoid using this starter, as it can chew up your ring gear fast, and thats a road you don't want to go down, as you need to pull trans, clutch, flywheel to fix that problem. If you have another starter, throw it in and see if that solves the problem. Not sure if the 218 Plymouth or 230 Dodge would have different starters, or even starter drive sizes, the ring gear should be the same. I suppose if the ring gear is further back, and the starter drive is not long enough to reach, it would grind and not mesh. I would go with a starter drive hanging up, and not fully engaging and thrusting forward to the ring gear...........Fred
  21. Hi Harold, a 6.70 15, is 27.4 inchs in diameter closes matches are a P205 75 15, 27 .3 inches, but what is your rear diff ratio, if you are geared low and are running with a 3spd trans, possibly as Greg has mantioned, then may be a P215 75 15, 27.8 inches in diameter, might be a better bet. But if your speedo is dead on now, going with a taller tire will alter that accuracy, also check your rim width, to determine what size of tire you can go up to.............Fred
  22. Hi YJ, if your engine is from a 1950 ro 1951 and later, it has the internal by-pass water pump. Therefore it won't have the by-pass t/stat housing with the short little hose that goes to the water pump, I have a 180 t/stat for one of these types, it's new. You can get these easy enough from a parts store such as NAPA, but if you need one I have one.......Fred
  23. Tim, too late painted over seam sealer with Tremclad black paint. I am not happy with the seam sealer, this stuff does not go on very eye appealing, I used both types, caulking style, and brushable, ended up smoothing it over with a putty knife. I am not pleased with this part of my work, looks like frankenstein under there, where the patches were welded in, and seam sealed over. There must be a better way to do this type of job to make it look better to the eye. The way it looks kind of reminds me of a sub-floor when the joints and screws are patched before the adhesive is put down before the vinyl floor is laid over it. You lift a vinyl floor or carpets in a lot of houses, and it looks pretty ugly under there..........Fred
  24. Thad be enough to put a damper on any starting, man did you have any Huckleberry Pie for a finally. It's almost 9:00 pm here, but heck in about 10 minutes, I am going to finish the seam sealing on the underside of the floor, where I made patches previously. So far I don't like the 1 seam sealer, it is black, dries and looks flat, gotta a xylene smell to it, should have bought a urethane sealer. This one is made by partsmaster.........Fred
  25. I have 3 drain holes in the spare tire well, what type of plug should I use to seal the holes, should I leave one open to drain any water that may come in. Don't see why I should leave any open, the trunk shouldn't be allowing any rain or water to get in, as the doors do, I know doors should have good drainage, as the rain can get in there from around the windows. What could I use for the sill mat holes, I don't have good sill mats, and until I can get some I will run without, but want to keep the holes, just in case, but they need to be sealed off for now..................Fred
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