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Wiggo

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Wiggo last won the day on March 15

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About Wiggo

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wokingham, UK
  • My Project Cars
    1941 Dodge Kingsway

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  • Location
    UK
  • Interests
    Boats, bikes and cars

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  1. Wiggo

    aftermarket radio and speaker installation

    Get a small (scooter/motorbike) 12V battery and connect the negative of that battery to the frame of the car. Now connect the positive to the supply of your new 12V radio. Your new radio will see 12V negative ground and be happy. Just remember that the new 12V battery will have no charging system, so you will have to take it out every now and then to recharge it, or connect to a cigarette lighter so you can leave it on the vehicle and charge through the lighter socket.
  2. Wiggo

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    OK, for a start, connect the ignition switch as follows: #31 Coil (Pink) to the IGN terminal on the switch #19 Neutral Safety (Purple) to the ST terminal of the switch (this means ditching the existing start button, bear in mind - I re-used mine as a trunk release switch) #33 ACC (Orange) and #32 ACC (Brown, if fitted) to the ACC terminal on the switch #34 Ign Power (Red) to the BAT terminal on the switch That will get power to the appropriate circuits on the fuseboard and should allow the engine to crank and run. However, you will be starting from the key, not the old starter button. Other thoughts. The horn will not work, as it is a 12V relay in the Kwik Wire kit, and the 6V signal will probably not be enough to pull in the contacts. That's why you hear a faint click, but no horn. The same is true with the indicators: the faint glow is a 12V bulb being given only 6V, and when you try to turn on the indicators, 6V is not sufficient to operate the 12V flasher relay. The dimmer and dome light can wait, for now. The instrument lights actually should have a separate switch according to the old wiring diagram, so that's almost certainly not connected for now. I'd suggest rewiring the dash so the instruments are powered from the sidelight power. I'm guessing that wire #30 (Gauge lights, Red) is a loose wire and not connected to the main fuseboard, in which case connect it to each of the instrument cluster lights, and then to either of the brown wires on your new light switch (i.e. join to #27 or #29). UPDATE The dimmer should use your existing stomp switch, otherwise you will need a 70705 switch: http://kwikwire.com/dimmer-switch/ You will also need to hook it up to your main beam indicator lamp, wherever that is on the P15.
  3. Wiggo

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    Hold tight, I'll check what I have against the P15 diagram and check the OEM switchgear part numbers...
  4. Wiggo

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    OK, Larry, I took a look at the wiring diagram in the download section (I assume 1948 is the P-17/18, right?) and it's amazing how much more complicated the electrics got from my 1941 D-20. Anyway, here's the thing. The Kwik Wire kit is indistinguishable from the kit I recently installed on my car, so I can speak from experience here. Fitting these kits is relatively straightforward, but you need to know your way around a car's electrical system. It is time consuming and requires you to be very methodical, and you will spend a lot of time deciphering old wiring diagrams to adapt what you have to the kit. Trying to do that at the same time as mentally flipping a negative ground kit to a positive ground application will be even more interesting. So, how much have you done so far? Was this a case of ripping out all traces of the old wiring harness and starting again, or are you doing it in stages? When you say the headlamps work, do they work correctly from the switch, and do the instrument lights come on as well? What about things like the heater motor? As for why the other circuits are not working, my best guess is that your ignition switch is wired up wrongly. The kit is assuming a modern ignition switch with (typically) 5 connections, but yours looks to be a 4 connector one. More confusingly, yours has a terminal labelled ACC, which really isn't the ACC referred to in the wiring kit. What I think you should have is the following: #31 Coil (Pink) to the ACC terminal on the switch (was a BLACK 16 Ga wire to the coil negative) #19 Neutral Safety (Purple) to the B terminal of the switch (was a BLACK/YELLOW 16 Ga wire going to small terminal on starter solenoid) #33 ACC (Orange) and #32 ACC (Brown, if fitted) to the starter switch terminal that had Blue, Red and Black wires going to it (to fuel gauge, radio and handbrake) #34 Ign Power (Red) to the remaining ignition switch terminal (was BROWN 12 Ga to a 30A circuit breaker) That should get the car to turn over and start (and hopefully get most everything else playing nicely, too). The dome light is an exercise for another day.
  5. Wiggo

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    I'll take look in the morning, I won't be able to see them on my phone at this time of night...
  6. Wiggo

    aftermarket radio and speaker installation

    Or above the top of the glovebox. Does it matter, if you can find room?
  7. Wiggo

    Negative Ground

    Doc, my car is already 12v negative earth. If someone has a neg earth and problems as described (i.e. random) the starting point has to be to figure out what the previous owner has done. I could have been facetious and said if the OP swaps back from neg to pos ground, his headlights will work, his tail lights won't and his engine will run back to front, but that wouldn't be that helpful. So, my question is: is the car 12v neg ground or some horrid hybrid 6v neg ground?
  8. Wiggo

    Negative Ground

    6V battery or 12V?
  9. Wiggo

    aftermarket radio and speaker installation

    OK, this is a '52: this is a '53 convertible: Any help?
  10. Wiggo

    aftermarket radio and speaker installation

    OK, so here are pics of '51 Cranbrooks with and without a radio... Looks to be a simple change of centre panel and I believe the speaker was mounted below the radio...
  11. Wiggo

    Electronics wizard needed...

    And here's how to wire one up... https://www.mgcc.co.uk/mga-register/wp-content/uploads/sites/22/2014/05/Dip-Switch-Relay-conversion.pdf
  12. Wiggo

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    Anyone got a wiring diagram for a '48 Plymouth? The latest one I have is for a '42 P-14; having studied this and earlier ones, I can't figure out how the starter works at all. I can see a switch for the ignition side, but nothing to energise the starter solenoid...
  13. Wiggo

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    All good info and advice. But as per the wiring diagram, you appear to have connected the battery negative to the wrong terminal on the solenoid. Make sure it is connected to the same terminal as the 10 Ga wire to the fusebox. It should be fairly obvious which terminal on the solenoid, as one will be a big chunky one designed to handle the whole starter current, and the other one (or two) will be small 'signal' sized terminals.
  14. Wiggo

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    There's your problem, I think. Check the Kwik Wiring instructions again carefully. I think you will find the #16 red 10 Ga wire goes from the solenoid to the fuse panel to supply power, and the battery negative should go to the same solenoid terminal. Bear in mind that these kits are for 12V negative ground (at least I can't find any mention of a 6V positive ground kit on their website) so you need to bear that in mind, and secondly the wires will all be too thin for a 6V system (halving the voltage doubles the current requirement).
  15. Wiggo

    Retro fiting Indicators

    I rewired my D20 and fitted new headlamps that take H4 halogen bulbs and have inbuilt marker light (sidelights, as we would call them). That left the original marker lights on top of the wings, so I wired both filaments together and put amber lenses in and wired those as front indicators. The rear lights were more involved, but that's a different story...
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