David Tweet

Go with the glass bowl type, I just installed one before the carb; easy access, timeless classic look!

Thanks for the good advice I’ll follow up and report back, cheers

Sorry LostViking, no fuel isn’t pouring in, only when throttled it shoots in from the jet; I’ll keep at it, let ya know when I get it running

Hello, installed new points, condenser, cap, rotor, good strong spark confirmed; just cranks but no start. Old buddy suggested ether (quick-start or similar) , saying as it’s winter, freezing cold outside (truck in covered, open garage) the fuel isn’t able to vaporize so it may need ether to fire. I’ll try that tomorrow after work (roofing). Ya I know I paid heavy for the rebuild, the fuel intake threads were stripped, I didn’t want to helicoil it, that was my main concern, and never done a carb kit, didn’t have confidence I’d get it right, this thing been sitting two plus years since I drove it in for a quick clean up..!! thx, appreciate the help and support, d.

Ya I wondered too so I pulled the top, it all looked good, moved float and checked needle is free moving. I’ll try firing it tomorrow, see if it’ll start with what’s in the carb, I’ll re direct the line from pump...thx

Drove the 48 in to work on it, only thing changed was it had 3/16 fuel line to carb from pump, I installed 5/16”. Upon cranking it just fills intake with fuel. Sent carb to Canadian carbs for rebuild 480$, installed today, same exact problem. It turns over, no fire at all, then fuel drips from exhaust/muffler connection. Pull carb, mop it out, try again. Same stock fuel pump, new lines, flushed and cleaned tank, glass bowl filter before carb. Is there usually a pool of fuel there, when one looks down the carb (Carter bb single barrel). I drove it in to do frame, brakes etc, so now it’s time to fire it up! Thanks for any insight, I’m in Squamish BC, Canada .

All new brake parts, hand formed lines from coil stock, double flare etc... the existing fuel line was 3/16, from tank to pump to carb. Pump and carb have 3/16 female for in/outtakes, tank has 5/16th to 3/16th reducer, brass. Truck ran for years with this set up, but it's not right. Not finding reducer fittings, the other parts carb/pumps I have all are 3/16th, looking like I need new carb and pump to rectify? Truck was used at the docks for decades, think they did the 3/16th line back then, to govern, or just to use what they had available? Thanks D.

Hello, Yes its 3/16. I just hand formed all brake and oil lines (5/16,1/4, 3/16),new cylinders,relined shoes,painted frame etc... .the fitting at the tank was a reducer, 5/16 male threads into tank, female accepts 3/16 line. It ran like that for years, I think I need carb/pump with 5/16 in/outlets. Don't know why they did it but can't leave it as I'm bringing back to stock! Ha it's always something eh!

Existing was 3/16th tank to pump to carb. All new brakes etc.,now fuel line...Thought I'd just reduce when at pump and carb but not finding reducer, not the move. . Guessing it's different pump with 5/16th inlet/outlet? Go back to 3/16th? Have one old reducer was at tank, male 5/16th to tank, female 3/16th that the line connected to. It's just not right eh? Thanks, Appreciate the input and site, couldn't have got this far without y'all.!

Hello, Dave here from Squamish, BC. getting back on the 48 1 ton, painted frame etc now doing brakes. Couple routing questions. Should it run from the master to the frame, just in front of the steering box, or other way around the pedals, to make the junction just in front of gas tank? Then going forward, through the frame, just run it and junction as the bends require? (Fabbing from 1/4" brake line coil).trying to get back to stock , thanks appreciate the help, and the forum, very valuable resource and an inspiration.

Ready to plumb new polycoated lines to new cylinders all around. The previous brake lines weren’t laid out well, trying to configure close to original as possible, also not sure about the poly line, did test double flare with ok results...any photo of rear, front would be appreciated.does the Rear only have one rubber flex line from bracket to axle on driver side, where it tees to the cylinders? The lines run up over the rear leaf springs? Thank you, Dave in Squamish BC Canada

Good Evening, almost ready to paint the frame, prepped by grinding, rust inhibitor, now contemplating rattle cans of tremclad ( rustoleum). Is this going to fail, does one have to use the fancy new (por, etc) products? Appreciate your insights, experiences etc., still a week out from applying. Thanks, this is a great Forum, couldn’t have progressed without it.

Ok thanks again, on to the eBay ...

Right on thank you, I’ll go off these pics for the spare mounting. Nibble away at the elephant! thx d

Trying to configure the spare tire retaining assembly, between frame rails at rear. There is a crossmember, but nothing else. Have to fab something close to stock, would it be possible for someone to post a photo of the assembly? Thank you. Dave.

Indeed it’s not a dual wheel truck. The rims aren’t coined. Looks like i have two spares... I was on a tangent on that one for years, so I want to thank y’all for setting this straight, I would have wasted a lot of time and energy on that one, thinking I was getting it back together! Thx d.

Hello, The tires I installed years ago on the split rims are too wide to install. (Used 7.5x16instead of 6.5x16). As the hubs are off to replace all brake parts, I’m hoping it’s possible to re/re the lug bolts to accommodate the wider tires. The existing bolts are approximately 2”, and I’d need another 2” to make it work. Can we remove the existing and reinstall longer lug studs? Or do I have to change tire size back to original? Another common question I get is the possibility of swapping the rear end to ease up on the revs, maybe drive on a main road once in a while.. ive got rear stripped,( gas tank,running boards, lines, electrical) now grinding rust off frame, parts, etc . Got hubs to shop for turning, getting wheel cylinders,lines,hand brake assembly.,planning the flatdeck (steel frame, 2x6 Doug Fir decking) as no box available (its 9 ft). Gonna get it back to stock! Thank y’all, cheers, Dave in Squamish.

We got em, fronts were worst, the lining delaminated from shoes, wedged in and rust sealed. Thanks for support, parts on order..

Ok thank you Young Ed, I’ll proceed in that direction; can I use a puller to ease drum off? D

Hello, Dave here from Squamish, time to bring the 48 one ton back to the garage so we can work on it. The front drivers side won’t turn at all. We tried wheel off four pound tap, lubed the dust plate/hub, backed off the brake shoe adjuster, still no movement... any ideas on next move? Thank you all , this is a great forum and it feels great working on the old iron again, in this modern computer age! dave Tweet. Squamish BC, Canada