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Joe Flanagan

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Everything posted by Joe Flanagan

  1. Never mind. I see from your earlier post what it is.
  2. What do the circled numbers indicate (30, 85, and 87)?
  3. Thanks to everyone who responded and especially those who posted pictures. Joe
  4. I got some door weatherstrip from Roberts. Can't figure out how it's supposed to be positioned on the door. It looks like there are only two possibilities, based on the shape of the rubber. Like this: Or like this: Here's another look at the rubber:
  5. Here's how it turned out. The rubber is from Advance Auto Parts, a generic, adhesive backed weatherstrip. I used contact cement to affix it to the metal strip:
  6. So I finally managed to do this. As I said, the metal backers for my weatherstrip were rusted into pieces. I was able to salvage the most important part of each side: The top, which has a curve in it. Then I just cut a pair of strips out of 18 gauge sheet metal, each one 3/8" wide. I welded these to the original pieces to get a full length metal backer. I fabricated tabs(where the screws go) out of sheet metal and welded those on, too. Then I used contact cement to attach some rubber to each metal strip. Very close to factory and they work very well.
  7. Don, have you had any issues with those mirrors scratching the paint?
  8. I'm getting ready to install the original driver's side view mirror on my Plymouth. I replaced the driver's door with a better one, and that door did not have a mirror attached to it, so there are no holes to guide me as to location. It looks like the screws just go into the sheet metal but I want to ask and be sure that there isn't anything inside the door that the screws are supposed to thread into.
  9. Today I discovered that water is actually not collecting in the hinge pockets of my car. I pulled the kick panels on both sides so I'd have a better view. Using a pen light, I found that it is actually dry in both places. There's even some dry sand from sandblasting sitting at the bottoms of both hinge pockets. I believe it was the angle I used the first time and the way the light was that made me think it was wet in there. So that is good news. I could see that a small amount of water is seeping past the fender bolts, so I put 3M glass bedding tape beneath the washers and bolted them back down. With my head under the dash I could see a few places where light was coming through from the outside and I sealed all those holes. One was something I never considered: The place where the brace for the dashboard passes through the firewall. It doesn't seem like any water is getting in around the wiper posts, but I'll be testing that soon. Still struggling with small leaks around the bolts that hold the belt trim on beneath the rear window. I didn't actually use bolts there but ribbed plastic anchors for modern interior door panels.
  10. OK, thanks. I'll check it out.
  11. Thanks, suntennis. Unfortunately, my metal pieces are rotted into several pieces.
  12. When I got my 49 Plymouth, the only weather strip around the doors was the piece that screws to the jamb and the piece that attaches through slots in the bottom of the door. Does anyone know if that was the original arrangement for a second series 49 Plymouth? There was no weather strip on the tops or sides of the doors, but I don't know what had been done to the car when I first got it. I'm wondering if it originally had weather strip glued to the top and sides of the doors, though it didn't look like any had been there when I got the car. I found the rubber that Pete Anderson used to seal the door posts on his 50 Plymouth but it looks like the only way to install it is to do it either before the front clip goes on or before the doors are attached. Trying to do it with the doors and fenders in place looks like it's going to be pretty much impossible. I'm not removing any doors or fenders, so I'll have to figure out another way to do this.
  13. That's what I'm thinking about: some kind of weatherstrip on the A-pillars. Casper50, thanks for posting the ebay link. Those don't resemble what was originally on my car, though. For what it's worth, I did save the metal pieces that held the original weather strip but I doubt I can make them work with new rubber.
  14. Is there any way to reproduce the gasket that once went around the door jambs at the A-pillars? On my 49 Plymouth, these were a pretty complicated shaped piece of metal with a rubber gasket attached. It was screwed into the jamb in several places. There was some discussion on the forum a long time ago about them but I don't really recall the gist of it except that you can't get them anymore. I have my cars out on the street under car covers. That's the best I can do right now. Last night we got the remnants of Hurricane Bill and I notice that there is a small amount of water sitting inside the hinge pockets. It looks to me like the only way the water could have gotten in there is by running between the door and the jamb and then flowing down through the hinges. I'm wondering if there's a way to fabricate some kind of gasket on the door itself (where it's not so visible), like out of an adhesive cut to follow the contour of the door. Has anyone tried this? I've put off a long trip I was going to take (Virginia to Massachusetts) because of leaks. I've been eliminating them one by one but this is something new I discovered.
  15. What do you do with the sand?
  16. Interesting way to approach it, Niel.
  17. No, Fred, I was talking about idle speed, not mixture. I did it in the same order as you. I've discovered that if I use a vacuum gauge to adjust my timing, I wind up pretty far advanced, which I understand is not good for these engines, especially under sustained use. So I use a timing light and then check it with a vacuum gauge to see if I'm in the right range and call it good. But if I adjust to get the highest vacuum possible at idle, I'm way far advanced.
  18. I recently had my distributor removed so I could repair the lead wires inside it. After reinstalling the distributor, I re-set the timing using a light. Then I set the idle speed. Is this the right order? Seems I read somewhere that you should set idle speed first, then go to the timing light. It didn't occur to me until after I finished.
  19. Thanks, everyone. It looks like it was a ground problem. I made up a ground wire and the light seems to be working normally now.
  20. I have dual filament bulbs in my tail lights. Tail lights work as brake lights and directionals. When I apply the brakes, the filament for the left brake light doesn't light. With the tail lights on, if I hit the brake, the left tail light goes out (no brake light). When I turn on the left directional, the tail light filament blinks on and off instead of the brake light filament. I checked and triple checked that the bulb is indexed correctly. I checked, cleaned, and tightened the connection between the socket and the tail light assembly. Pig tails are in good shape. Junction block in trunk is in order and connections are tight. I checked both contacts in the left tail light socket with a volt meter. Neither one is getting anywhere near 6 volts. Right side socket checks out fine. I switched the bulbs left side to right and the problem is not a defective bulb. The weird thing is that although the right side light works fine, I only get three volts at the junction block in the trunk. How this all developed is that I washed the car and discovered that the trunk leaks through the bolts that attach the tail lights and the rear fenders (the original rubber gaskets are still there but ineffective). I removed the tail lights and applied an auto window sealer around the bolts (black ribbon-type stuff made by 3M). I was thinking this might have created a grounding issue but it had no effect on the right side light. Any ideas what's going on?
  21. Right, I had forgotten Tim had posted that link. Thanks.
  22. That sounds like the best way to go. This is available at electronics stores?
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