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Uberchin

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Everything posted by Uberchin

  1. The one on the left was when I first drained the radiator, the middle one was trying to use just vinegar (which I found to be pretty useless), and the one on the right was after letting the EvapoRust sit in it for 48hrs. I was astounded by how must crud the EvapoRust removed.They also make a purely radiator treatment that I saw later on the shelves at Walmart but I haven't tried that one yet.
  2. Taking her to a lot of car shows now. This one is in Brooksville, FL
  3. There are several MOPAR flathead 6s for sale on Ebay; all look in decent shape and listed for 'parts or rebuild'.
  4. If you're replacing your radiator due to overheating, that's just a bandaid. If had great success using EvapoRust radiator flush and then removing the expansion plug at the bottom of the block near the block drain stopcock. You probably have a ton of crude stuck down there. I replaced mine with a rubber expansion plug for easier access and ease of doing it each year.
  5. The way that I always look at while buying classic cars is...even if it looks really good when I buy it, I'm still going to dump a good amount of money into it to make it perfect for ME. I think you made the right decision to pass on the deal. I found mine through a car club that I'm in and going to the local cruise ins.
  6. http://www.oldmoparts.com/fluid-drive-information.aspx
  7. Ok. I'm going to shift gears and try to guide you a little into what to look for when you view that DeSoto. I have a '47 Chrysler Windsor 4dr. If it runs, check if it idles at the necessary 450rpm (very low) but is required for it to shift the fluid drive semi-auto transmission properly. If the owner has it idling too high, it's usually because the compression is bad (hard) or the carb needs a rebuild (easy). Try turning down the idle and see if it still purrs. Check the wiring, especially under the dash. If it's stock (like mine) it'll be the cloth wrapped type which if fine unless it is fraying or exposed. They do sell updated wiring kits which are awesome but expensive. If it drives, check that it shifts correctly from 3rd and 4th, and back down to 3rd. You'll need to educate yourself on the fluid drive system to understand how it works and how to operate. I'll try to find the link that explains it. There is a lot more but I'll let others chime in....
  8. This is great news that I can tow my '47 Windsor w/Fluid Drive using my tow dolly. All the guys in my car club kept saying I'd run into problems of not lubricating tranny bearing and seals. I guess that isn't the case with these 'unique' transmissions. I love this forum.
  9. Why use a Midland Ross Booster? The Imperial one looks simpler and cheaper. Also should be able to attach it directly to the front of the original master cylinder.
  10. Awesome. Extremely helpful. It appears that on the last rebuild, they used a different style pin for the dash pot and probably dropped the old pin into the carb and lost it in there until I found it. Here is a pic of my newer pin.
  11. I'm not sure of the difference between ev1 and ev2 but the dash pot use of that rod might sound correct. Where in the dash pot does that pin go? Here is the model of my carb. Thanks.
  12. Hey guys, I'm rebuilding my electronic carb off my '47 Chrysler and came across this unusual small rod spacer that we think sat on top of the ball under the Pump Check Plug. I say 'we think' because my son tipped the carb upside-down to get the ball out and both the ball and rod spacer fell into his hand. Has anyone run into this strange part while rebuilding? The shop manual doesn't show this rod being used in the illustration nor is one pictured or mentioned anywhere in the manual. The 'toothpick' in the picture points to where the ball and possibly the rod would go. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  13. That's the exact part I need. What would you want for it? Mine in pretty roached.
  14. Thanks for all the replies. I think I'm going to have to buy the single basket-shaped basket separately and reuse my plunger rod.
  15. Wondering if I can get some help here. I recently rebuilt the stock carb in my 47 Chrysler Windsor and the kit I used didn't come with one of the replacement 'plungers'. It had the plunger with the flat rod but not the one with the solid rod. I also seems that every kit I find only has the flat one included. Unfortunately, the solid rod one is in need of replacement because part of the gasket on the bottom is deteriorated. Any help on where I can find one would be appreciated.
  16. Oil fill tube will twist out. It's held in by friction and grime.
  17. I also filled the cooling passages in the head and radiator with EvapoRust (available at TSC) and let is sit for a couple days while I was doing the engine compartment painting. Here's the before/vinigar/EvapoRust samples in bottles when I drained the radiator.
  18. This is when I masked off the engine to wire brush it prior to priming it for paint.
  19. Thanks. I found one like yours. How did you wire up your 42 Dodge? I have a 47 Chrysler.
  20. What's the part number and where did you buy it? I'd like to do the same. Thanks
  21. Thanks `pflaming` that answers a lot for me. I think that is a reasonable price to add more safety into the vehicle. Is it necessary to re-proportion the valving for the disc brakes or can it be left stock? Thanks
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