Ajgkirkwood

Hi everyone, I'm trying to confirm what dash I have. I bought what I was told is a 1942 canadian dodge (the grille and fenders also indicate that) just that I cant find any info on my dash and all that comes up is an "american" dash

Question, do you still have the center hub for the drum? Is the drum itself shot but the hub is good? If so take the drum off. Get a drum from a 70s ford, they use 11x3 drums. The center hole diameter is smaller then what's in our chryslers. You can bore that open, and machine off the back of the drum so its 11x2. It's what I did to make work on my 1940

I'm not sure but you will need a 146 tooth flywheel aswell the pressure plate

I have a Canadian 1942 dodge that is my next project. I'll look at it this week and get pictures

That's awesome!

How has the oil pressure been? Going to a thicker oil might not be the best idea because it will be harder to get to the bearings. Does it smoke oil? You tend to go that thick of an oil jump when your on your last legs. These motors were designed around 30w straight oil. 10w-40w should be good for it. If oil pressure is low, that's when I think of going to a thicker oil like the 20w-50

Double posted

Is it a 3 on the tree? I recently lost 2 and 3 year, what I had to do was adjust the nut that connects to the vertical lever on the transmission, it's a shorter lever. The linkage connects to the motion on the column that gets pushed in and out towards the firewall. (Not up and down down toward the roof) I had to back mine off and it shifts great now

I'll chime in with what I know, read or heard. If fresh rebuild, I would use synthetic oil because the oil is more consistent and usually better quality. Adding an additive has ZDDP is good as to not wipe out the cams. If the head is stock, milling the head .060 is safe. Oil weight I would look at 10w-40 (thinner oil so it's easier to reach areas when its first "cold". If you were gonna put stress on the motor, 10w-40 to cushion the bearings more. As for octane. It's best to find a low octane full with no ethanol in it. The ethanol eats at seals in the fuel line. Higher octane burns slower then lower octane. With low compression low performance cars, you get more power out of a lower octane fuel. I heard before the valve seats are already hardened?

I dont think there is a lot of ads on this site. No where near what other forums have. Sites are not free. I do plan to post a for sale ad but I'm gonna have it as a list of parts instead of one for each. I'm in Ontario, most people are from the states so I wont have many quick sales I dont think haha

My motor in my 1940 chrysler Is a 265 from a 1954 windsor which I was told to be fluid drive. The motor is mated to the stock 3 speed from the 1940. The only issue I have is down shifting isn't great, grinds if going to fast but could be because syncros are worn?

Well it costs 4.99 to post a for sale ad.

the car looks great and i hope you enjoy it, this 58 you speak of, have pictures?

Again with my comments. It was me being excited at the find of that motor. I was confused as to why it wasn't picked up. Only after that it was explained that it would be useful to someone and be greedy to horde did I understand. These are things that I never think about. Hopefully in time I learn more is these lessons as I'm still young

My motor was from a 54 Chrysler windsor with the fluid drive I was told.

I suppose your right. My bad for how I acting. It was such a good deal, surprised you past it up. I wouldn't have scrapped it personally because I'm a horder plus it's a good block due to it having the oil filter mount. It's not often you find a deal like that and I'm jealous for that. I'm surprised the seller had a hard time getting rid of it. Same as another poster when a guy was about to scrap a desoto because no one wanted to buy it. Best of luck finding a motor. I know my block had a fluid drive attached to it but I cant recall seeing an oil passage?

you could have used the head and the oil filter, the oil filter alone would have gotten you money back, you could have used the cam, u could have taken the oil pump and made a primmer out of it, you could have had a spare water pump, motor mounts, the spitfire head would have been boss to have. extra starter, distributer. etc, grab whats useful and small and scrap the rest if you really wanted.

if it doesnt work out, have it shipped to the niagara region of ontario please

Could I buy it and have you ship to me

Plus it appears to have the valuable full flow oil filter!

It's totally worth getting for cheap. The head could be sold for around that

Buy it asap

Omfg how did you find this

Yea they are saw your post and had to reply. I'm keeping up with the progress as I too have a 1940 chrysler windsor