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Ajgkirkwood

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Ajgkirkwood last won the day on August 8 2018

Ajgkirkwood had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1940 chrysler windsor

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  • Biography
    Umm.... idk
  • Occupation
    labour

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  • Location
    Niagara region, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Cars and gaming

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  1. Hi everyone, I'm trying to confirm what dash I have. I bought what I was told is a 1942 canadian dodge (the grille and fenders also indicate that) just that I cant find any info on my dash and all that comes up is an "american" dash
  2. Question, do you still have the center hub for the drum? Is the drum itself shot but the hub is good? If so take the drum off. Get a drum from a 70s ford, they use 11x3 drums. The center hole diameter is smaller then what's in our chryslers. You can bore that open, and machine off the back of the drum so its 11x2. It's what I did to make work on my 1940
  3. I'm not sure but you will need a 146 tooth flywheel aswell the pressure plate
  4. I have a Canadian 1942 dodge that is my next project. I'll look at it this week and get pictures
  5. How has the oil pressure been? Going to a thicker oil might not be the best idea because it will be harder to get to the bearings. Does it smoke oil? You tend to go that thick of an oil jump when your on your last legs. These motors were designed around 30w straight oil. 10w-40w should be good for it. If oil pressure is low, that's when I think of going to a thicker oil like the 20w-50
  6. Is it a 3 on the tree? I recently lost 2 and 3 year, what I had to do was adjust the nut that connects to the vertical lever on the transmission, it's a shorter lever. The linkage connects to the motion on the column that gets pushed in and out towards the firewall. (Not up and down down toward the roof) I had to back mine off and it shifts great now
  7. I'll chime in with what I know, read or heard. If fresh rebuild, I would use synthetic oil because the oil is more consistent and usually better quality. Adding an additive has ZDDP is good as to not wipe out the cams. If the head is stock, milling the head .060 is safe. Oil weight I would look at 10w-40 (thinner oil so it's easier to reach areas when its first "cold". If you were gonna put stress on the motor, 10w-40 to cushion the bearings more. As for octane. It's best to find a low octane full with no ethanol in it. The ethanol eats at seals in the fuel line. Higher octane burns slower then lower octane. With low compression low performance cars, you get more power out of a lower octane fuel. I heard before the valve seats are already hardened?
  8. I dont think there is a lot of ads on this site. No where near what other forums have. Sites are not free. I do plan to post a for sale ad but I'm gonna have it as a list of parts instead of one for each. I'm in Ontario, most people are from the states so I wont have many quick sales I dont think haha
  9. My motor in my 1940 chrysler Is a 265 from a 1954 windsor which I was told to be fluid drive. The motor is mated to the stock 3 speed from the 1940. The only issue I have is down shifting isn't great, grinds if going to fast but could be because syncros are worn?
  10. Well it costs 4.99 to post a for sale ad.
  11. the car looks great and i hope you enjoy it, this 58 you speak of, have pictures?
  12. Again with my comments. It was me being excited at the find of that motor. I was confused as to why it wasn't picked up. Only after that it was explained that it would be useful to someone and be greedy to horde did I understand. These are things that I never think about. Hopefully in time I learn more is these lessons as I'm still young
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