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CC7

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Everything posted by CC7

  1. Thanks dodgeb4ya for that info, that’s interesting I appreciate that.
  2. I was sent the wrong one that’s correct, I removed it and ordered the correct non fluid drive sleeve that I should have been sent in the first place and still same issue. I think James up above has hit nail on the head, the fork on the auburn is slightly different, I am going to need to find an auburn set up to buy or send it all away for a rebuild by the looks of things.
  3. I checked for free play, can’t detect any at all, it sits where it has since I’ve had it 7 years ago. I just can’t understand how a NOS bearing sleeve can be too big for the gearbox input shaft
  4. That was myself who had the wrong part sent out to me, Bernbaum’s sent the throw out bearing for the fluid drive set up. contacted them and they sent out the correct one and I also ordered a NOS https://www.hiltopautoparts.com/product/nos-mopar-clutch-throw-out-bearing-sleeve-1941-56-most-dpcd-models/ but these two throwout bearings are still not working, the whole thing is short. If the new bernbaum part and the NOS bearings don’t work I’m at a loss what is going on. Could it be this is not the original transmission and something is amiss?
  5. Ok that clears that up, many thanks. What would be best going forward, do you know where I could pick up an Auburn style pressure plate? Is everything else in the clutch set up different? Pilot bushing, throw out bearing, spring, cover plate etc?
  6. Needing some help with this, plan was to replace the whole clutch assembly, ordered from Bernbaums (clutch disc assembly, clutch cover and pressure plate assembly, release bearing assembly, pilot bushing, release pullback and spring and the release bearing and sleeve) I’ve replaced many clutches over the years and it’s always been a defined job to carry out, something here is way off. I’ll attach pics below but the new parts just seem way off. The first pics is the original setup that came out the car and the second 3 pics show the new parts I received. The bearing carrier that came has a larger spigot size and bore size which is way too big for the gearbox input shaft. Put together and fitted it sits about 10mm short of where the thrust bearing pushed to activate the forks. You can also see the clutch cover/compression plate is different, the first pics of the original shows enclosed springs (looks more like a silver bell housing) and the the 2nd set of photos is the new plate which shows the exposed springs. when you see the tape measure you can see the difference in “height” (as I have placed them vertically face down On a level surface) this is measured from the table top that they are lying on (which would be the flywheel face) to the face of the forks where the thrust bearing pushes to activate the clutch(approx 10mm) does anyone know what’s going on here or can help?? To me it seems like I’ve been sent a mix match of parts. I really appreciate any help or advice with this, many thanks. Chris Scotland
  7. Thank you for the replies, Sniper you called it correctly. Did some research online and got the parts numbers, I have been sent the fluid drive sleeve instead of the correct one I needed for my 50. many thanks for that quick reply you’ve saved me a lot of hassle!
  8. Hi there, currently replacing the clutch on my 1950 Plymouth, bought all the parts from Bernbaums( clutch disc asssembly, clutch cover and pressure plate assembly, release bearing assembly, pilot bushing, clutch release pullback spring and clutch release bearing and sleeve) the issue I have is this, the new carrier that came is larger in diameter (the spigot is also longer) the new bearings are too small for the new carrier so I could only fit the new bearings to the old carrier with the new friction plate and pressure plate. The issue in doing that is when reassembled the thrust bearing sits too far away from the pressure plate forks and won’t engage in the gear correctly and makes a whining noise. I’m guessing I need a new bearing that should be larger I’m diameter and sits deeper than the ones I ordered. Spoke to Bernbaum’s and they say that there is only one. The picture below shows the one that came out the car on the left and the new one on the right. has anyone else had this sort of issue? Any help or info is appreciated, many thanks. Chris Scotland
  9. I have few squeaking noises coming from underneath the car when driving so I wanted to grease all the points to see if this helps, I have been looking in the manual at how to do the rear leaf springs, I am little confused as to how to tackle this. I’ve attached a couple of pics to show the coverings wrapped around them, can anyone help me with how to grease and lubricate these and what they use to do it. Is it a lubricant spray best to use or regular grease. many thanks for any help or advice, I really appreciate it. Chris Chambers Scotland
  10. Many thanks for all the replies, great info and I really appreciate. I do indeed have an alignment tool and I have a new throw out bearing as well as the clutch kit so I’ll get that done when I’m doing the rest. Good idea also to look at shifter linkages and bushings, I didn’t think of that. Many thanks once again, Chris
  11. I have been nursing my ‘50 Plymouth around with a slipping clutch in 2nd and 3rd and it’s time to replace. I have ordered a new clutch rebuild kit from Bernbaums and been looking at the shop manual but I see a lot related to just clutch adjustment. Has anyone replaced the clutch on their P20 that can give me some hints/tips or gotchas that might come up when I’m pulling this out or anything that will make the job easier. The car is a 3 on the tree manual all original car. Many thanks for your help, I do appreciate it. Chris Chambers Scotland
  12. Thanks for the input, yes pre flared lines was the way I wanted to go. I went under the car last night, I think around 200” should do the job and I’ll use a union to connect the lines up.
  13. How are you doing, I am about to start the process of overhauling the fuel system on my 50 Plymouth, the tank I have overhauled and coated and rebuilt ethanol resistant fuel pump I have got already. I am looking at the 5/16 poly armour nickel copper pre-flared lines and I am wondering how much length I need to do the whole car? I think I have seen somewhere that 90” totally will be enough, has anyone had the experience of doing this and can remember if that was enough or should I buy a little extra just in case it’s tight. Any my other recommendations when doing this is appreciated, over in Scotland they are switching to 10% ethanol in the gas and I want to make sure I am best equipped to deal with this. Going to install a down line filter, new flex hose to the carb as well. Many thanks, Chris
  14. Looking for some help, I Had some heavy hesitation under acceleration and serious misfiring so recently I replaced the plugs, ignition wire set, distributor cap, rotor and coil, also adjusted the float as to manual recommendations. After about 40 miles of driving over a one month period it now cuts out and having real problems starting and again if i get it going under any real acceleration it is hesitating and misfiring. Quick look underneath and the carb is wet leaking a lot of gas and all the new plugs have heavy deposits of carbon on them(too rich??) Checked the float again and seems ok , it is still the 1 bbl carter installed. After a bit of tweaking around myself I took it to a local shop and they got her running for about 15 miles and then same issues again, they think it is the auto choke not working correctly, normally you can hear the spring 'clicking' when its switching itself on and off but that is not happening all the time. Has anyone had any experience of this before, should I get new choke for it and go from there? has anyone ever tried a conversion to a good old manual choke on these things? Any help is appreciated, cheers
  15. Thanks captden29 I will open it up and see. September last year there was a rebuild on the carb from a reputable gentleman. I will look at the timing again and have a closer look at the wires, the set was recommended by another Plymouth owner but you are certainly right about the quality of some of these new parts
  16. Good day to all, I am new to this forum and I am looking for some help regarding my '50 Plymouth Special Deluxe. She is unrestored in great condition overall with 70k miles on it. Had some heavy hesitation under acceleration and serious misfiring so recently I replaced the plugs, ignition wire set, distributor cap, rotor and coil, also adjusted the float as to manual recommendations. After about 40 miles of driving over a one month period it now cuts out and having real problems starting and again if i get it going under any real acceleration it is hesitating and misfiring. Quick look underneath and the carb is wet leaking a lot of gas and all the new plugs have heavy deposits of carbon on them(too rich??) Checked the float again and seems ok , it is still the 1 bbl carter installed. Anyone out there can recommend as to where things could be going wrong and where best to start with the diagnosis?? Any help much appreciated! Cheers
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