TylerB46

I had the oil pan off once before this, because I saw some metal shavings. Turns out the slinger was getting chewed by the timing chain so I took the slinger out. I believe this leak I’m having now is because the oil seal got a little damaged by the slinger.

The leak I’m having is coming from the back of the damper, when the engine is running I can see that the back of the damper is soaked, and if any throttle is applied it’ll sling oil all the way to the passenger side tire. Thank you for the info, especially the name of the sleeve. I’m gonna start taking things back apart today, hopefully the issue is obvious.

Yes it does, it really does. Think it may be worth just checking out the damper before I fool with taking the cover off?

I did not know that, I’ll do that and hopefully that’ll fix the issue, the crank should be okay since it’s freshly machined, but I’ll check it to make sure it’s good. Thank you for the good info.

So I’ve been working on this truck for awhile now, the engine is freshly rebuilt with all new gaskets. It had a leak a while back coming from the front of the oil pan and Ive since fixed that. Now I’ve noticed that while the engine is running oil is being slung in a line following the crank pulley across the whole cross member. Like I mentioned earlier it has all new gaskets and a new oil seal. Can anyone help me out with this? Thank you P.S. Can someone tell me where the blue gasket ring in that pic goes?

Okay, so i might trim and see how things go. This truck might be luck if it see’s 3000 a year, so it’s not going to be driven much.

Is that what the bushings are designed to prevent? My brake pedal rubs the floorboard but I was just going to trim a little bit around of the floorboard to give it more room.

So you’re saying I do need them, correct? Also is there somewhere I could get the arbor I’d need?

Hi Im pretty sure this is a dumb question but I wanted to ask, how important are the copper bushings that go on the clutch fork through the bell housing? Mine are toast so I bought a set and could not get them in without destroying them. Once it’s finished my truck won’t be driven a whole lot, so I was curious if I truly needed them. If so does anyone have any helpful installation tips? Thanks Btw the truck is a 46 WC 1/2 ton if that helps at all.

I appreciate that, mine does have a small leak around the plug, but at least for now it’s not enough to even drip on the ground, the collar just stays a little wet.

Hi, the little tab on the front of my 230’s oil pan popped a weld. Should I get that fixed or would it still be okay? I’m going to use a little gasket maker on both sides of the gasket so it shouldn’t move around any, I just don’t know how important that tab is. Thanks! P.S. Yes I’m going to clean the pan before I install it.

I looked up into the engine while the pan was off but of course I couldn’t see everything, I’ll change the filter and I’ve cleaned the timing set and pan the best I could. I’ll run it again and change the oil pretty soon to try to flush it out.

Found out the metal shavings were from the oil slinger getting chewed up, it didn’t seem to have hurt anything so i just tossed it. Also there was a small dent in the timing cover so the chain was eating away at it some. So hopefully that’s the end of the worrisome shavings.

Thanks, all of the metal Is magnetic, so it’s at least not the bearings.

Okay so I got the oil pan off and it looks like a little bit of coolant got into the oil, there’s a greenish sheen in the oil. But now I’m a bit more worried because I found some tiny metal flakes in the bottom of the pan and a couple decent shavings. This engine is a fresh rebuilt with new pistons, rings, etc... so this might turn into a bigger ordeal than just a couple leaks...