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TylerB46

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  • Content Count

    115
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About TylerB46

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    1946 Dodge WC 1/2 ton truck

Converted

  • Location
    Kentucky
  • Interests
    Old stuff

Recent Profile Visitors

470 profile views
  1. I didn’t, however this isn’t the same crank that came out of this engine, that one had a crack in it. The guy at the machine shop said he wants me to bring the block and crank back to him so he can check it all out.
  2. Mine doesn’t use the rope seals it uses the old rubber 2 piece seal.
  3. I had to order the gauges, and half shell the crank turned really easily.
  4. I did not, and I doubt the machine shop did.
  5. The crank just came from the machine shop, so hopefully they checked to see if it was warped. As far as miking goes, I don’t have one and I really don’t want to spend that kinda money on some tools I’ll only use once. And I’m not too sure how to check the end play, could you explain that a little for me? If all else fails I’m planning on taking the crank caps and bearings back to the machine shop and having them check everything again.
  6. I have, I took pics of them before my initial disassembly, and mine have notches that someone put in them in the past, and looking at my pictures they’re installed correctly.
  7. The front cap will tighten all the way down to 85psi and still turn freely, but the middle 2 catch without tightening down much at all
  8. Unfortunately I dont own a mic. I used plstigage and everything seemed to be in spec at either .001 or .0015
  9. Hi I recently had my crankshaft turned, mains are .020 and rods are .030. I’ve got the crank back in the block with the new bearings installed, all the caps are in the right place, but if I even torque them all down just 30psi I cant budge the crank at all.
  10. They’re sealed power bearings, I’ll probably just open it up with something.
  11. It’s the right bearing for that spot and with the tang it can only go the way it’s installed, looking at the old one it had kind of an oval hole in the bearing where as the new one has a large round one, but it covers half the hole on the block.
  12. Hello, I just installed new main bearings on my 230, and I noticed the last one at the back of the engines hole covers up above half on the oiler hole in the block. Is this okay?
  13. Well I had to take the engine back apart and to a machine shop for other issues, and ive got all the caps off right now, but I don’t see any grooves in the front main seal, it’s totally flat on the bottom and where is goes on the engine. So do I still need to use that o ring?
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