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Clarksville Windsor

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  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Chrysler Windsor

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  • Biography
    I'm a military vet, I was a banker, truck driver, satellite installer, heavy equipment operator, etc
  • Occupation
    truck driver/builder

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  • Location
    Clarksville Mi
  • Interests
    Fishing, tinkering with old vehicles and tractors, and going to steam and gas shows

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  1. Thank you Greg G for the insight on the possibility of a flooding issue. Could there be a chance there are two things that could be wrong? How do I remedy the issue of the fuel draining from the carb once I shut off the car? I can see the gas draining from the carb ( by watching it on the clear inline filter that is only 4 inches from the carb). When I have my wife start the car, (after I shut if off for a couple minutes after I've been driving it a while) I don't see any gas getting to the filter. I don't know what makes it work again, but after a while it will then start spurting gas into the filter, then reaches the carb....I just don't get it. Could there be two issues? Could that check ball you mentioned not be working?
  2. Do you mean raw fuel on external part of carburetor where it is mounted? It looks kind of wet. To start when hot, i've tried just turning key without doing anything, but also pumping gas pedal. So tried two different ways.
  3. My 1950 Chrysler Windsor will not start after running for a while and it seems to be a fuel issue. Could it be vapor lock or a bad fuel pump? Explanation of problem is below. FYI carb was professionally rebuilt last fall, so I don't think that is an issue. Problem didn't happen immediately following carb rebuild. There is an inline fuel filter just prior to the carburetor and it looks like when you shut off the car, the fuel drains out of it...doesn't leak out of the car though, I assume it goes back to the tank...?...When trying to start the car, the gas doesn't even get to the inline fuel filter. Yesterday, I drove it about 20 minutes and when I stopped at a gas station, the car wouldn't start after I shut it off. It seems like the fuel doesn't get to the carb (while my wife was turning over the engine, I was watching to see if the gas was getting to the inline fuel filter which is located just before the carb). On a side note, I took off the oil bath air cleaner cover and I put some gas in the carb. I don't know if it was a coincidence, or maybe the car cooled down enough, but when I had my wife turn the car over, it then looked like fuel was getting pumped through the fuel line into the filter. Unfortunately my 6V battery was too weak to start the car. Do I need to replace the fuel pump? I looked at pumps online, and they don't look like the one that is on the car. The one on my car does not have the glass bowl on it.....Does anybody have a picture of what the correct fuel pump looks like? Please help! Thanks, Jeff
  4. I just replaced my water pump on my 1950 Windsor. One of the bolts on the backing plate on my new water pump was loose . So whoever put that backplate on that water pump at the factory, didn't tighten the bolts enough. I tightened them just a little and it worked after that. Mine stopped leaking right away. I hope you will have the same result.
  5. I really appreciate all these suggestions and instructions. I've done things with some newer vehicles like my 86 CJ7... I personally converted my Straight 6 from the Carter carburetor to an EFI system using a late 90's 4.3 L Vortec wiring harness from an s-10. Lots of technical work, some air intake adapter plates,installing an ecm, fuel pressure lines, electric fuel pump, etc etc etc, but I haven't done anything with these older cars. I'm a pretty quick learner with some helpful guys that have experience , but when something is new to , it's like trying to hold a baby for the first time.... I don't want to break it . I really appreciate all of these suggestions and advice that everybody has given me. This blog is very helpful to me thanks to all of you. I just wish I knew how to reply to the individual comments when I have a specific question. For example, if "Billy Bob" told me to put a screw-on, I would like to be able to specifically respond to "Billy Bob", but I don't know how to do that..
  6. What years/makes/models are the water pumps interchangeable for my 1950 Chrysler? It is a flathead 6 Spitfire.
  7. New topic: Water pump removal. Just had a broken valve spring fixed and car runs great.........Well, now that I've been running it, it now has now developed a leak at the water pump. It looks like the leak is coming from where the fan pulley attaches to the water pump. How difficult is it to remove/repair/reinstall the water pump? When I was just looking at the water pump housing, it seems like the cylinder head is in the way of removing a bolt to take off the water pump assembly--unless that is a bolt that is for the back plate of the water pump (maybe called 'cover plate'??? not sure if I am using the correct nomenclature). I wouldn't think that the head would be in the way for any bolts that hold on the water pump assembly. When reading the 1949-1950 Chrysler shop manual it didn't mention anything about the head being in the way. Here is exactly what the manual says for the REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF WATER PUMP: (1) Drain cooling system; (2) Remove fan belt and disconnect water pump hose; (3) Remove bolts holding water pump to engine block and lift out water pump and fan assembly. Is it really that easy? Am I just making is seem complicated? I am looking forward to some suggestions. Thanks Guys! On another note, where can I find the parts that I need for my car? I have been using Andy Bernbaum, but I've had difficulty with their customer service when they sent me the wrong part...its been over 3 weeks and still haven't received the correct part (I am not exaggerating) but they charged me immediately for the wrong part....
  8. Well, here is an update to the 3 cylinders not working. Remember the first part of the problem? Well, it happened to be that the local mechanic didn't know what he was talking about. Everything that he said it probably was, was not. So, I looked online to see if I could find a mechanic that new about old cars and regularly works on old cars. Thankfully, I found a guy (Steve's Antique Auto Repair) about 30 minutes away (in Grand Rapids Mi) from where I live. He checked it out the car the next morning and found only one cylinder didn't have compression. He took the head off and found cylinder 1 had a broken valve spring. He put a new spring in and a new valve (it wasn't bent thankfully). He put a new head and manifold gasket on. The shop did a great job and runs great! Thanks Don Coatney to post this page. I really should get some of these publications for the late 40's and early 50's era automobiles. I know that I would definitely use them...knowledge is the best tool
  9. Captden29, would there be any noticeable things when pulling the head off? In other words what would I be looking for? Also how will I know if the valves move freely? Is that something that I can push with my fingers? Keep in mind I've never opened up an engine before. I am mechanically inclined and I can catch on, but a little guidance always helps. Thanks for your input.
  10. I am so glad that I joined this website to hear from you guys. I really appreciate the responses that all of you have given. I hope that from these responses I can see that my car engine wouldn't have to be totally rebuilt after digging into it. So let's hope that's the case! Just out of curiosity what an air leak in the intake manifold be a possibility? Or some type of vacuum leak?
  11. Mechanic said compression on three cylinders is very bad. I just don't know what would cause this problem to just show up. It literally ran great and just went to crud. Don't know how that would have happened all of a sudden...
  12. First post on P15-d24....and just signed on to this website. I have a couple of quick questions since I am new to the 1950 era cars. 1st, how could my spitfire's 3 cylinders go bad? I was driving the car and was running great. It started coughing and acting up a little, then within 5 minutes, the car could barely run. Mechanic said engine needs to be replaced. Not sure if mechanic knows much on these old cars. So, how did he car go from running like a top, to 3 cylinders that went bad (horrible compression from what mechanic said)? If I need to have it rebuilt, what would be the general costs to have an engine like that be overhauled? I really like the car and I enjoy driving it, I just want it fixed....please help. Also, I am from Clarksville Michigan, not Clarksville Tennessee.
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