'37 P4 Touring

I don't use multi-viscosity oil in my engine, I use Shell Rotella T straight 30 weight.

My 1937 P4 car engine is 201 cubic inches.

Do you really drive much in rain? I removed my wipers and use Rainex.

I used PPG's Omni paint since the paint code I wanted was not available in PPG first line. I did not like that so I called PPG and talked to them about it. Their answer was that Omni is fine but use their best clear coat which I did. Other factors are how the car is used and what kind of weather it is exposed to. Does it sit out in all weather or garaged. The premium clear coat gives the best UV protection. PM me with your email address and I will send you the part number of the clear coat and send pics of my car. Base coat / clear coat is what I like since it is beautiful when color sanded. These cars were shiny when built so make them shiny now unless you are a hard core Patina purist.

Good luck on your paint!

Jim

So I'm going to a 318

Any advice and links or photos to help me along would be awesome

Thanks

What kind of car will the 318 be going into?

Jim

I know, mine is a DeSoto, not Plymouth or Dodge, but this is something all should have in common.

How is the gas tank grounded to the frame/vehicle?

My gas gauge never goes past 1/2 full, and the needle flickers.

Jack

You can add some grounds to be sure you are grounded. I added one at one of the sender mount screws to the trunk floor where the sender cover screws on and another at the tank outlet to the frame. For this one I used a tight fitting clamp and heavy wire to the frame. Now there is no question as to a good ground. You need to ensure the battery has a good ground also. I replaced both battery cables and added a heavy ground wire from the transmission to the frame. Good grounds eliminate a lot of problems on these old cars. I would take care of the grounds before tackling the sending unit.

Good Luck,

Jim

You can't change the capillary tube from one instrument to another. Once in a while on Ebay you can find a new one.

Maybe you can find an instrument repair shop that has that capability.

Good luck

Egge in California will have it all. If not, they will make it. My machine shop got the parts for my engine from them.

Here is a link:

http://www.egge.com/about.shtml

Good Luck,

Jim in Columbia

All right, thats what I'm after!

Let's hear some more.

Good, are you going to overhaul it yourself? I had mine done recently and it was expensive. Bored oversize, new valves and guides. If I can help let me know, I've been through a lot with my engine and a spare I found to use while mine was in for overhaul.

Not to worry. Bush gave them 17.4 Billion today and next month Obama will kick in whatever else is needed. Congress voted themselves a nice raise today too.

Automakers will have it good for a while, no need to compete, does not matter if we bought their cars or not, they still got our money.

What a crock.

i have made quite a bit of progress on the 58 plymouth 230 flattie in the past few weeks. it runs smoothly at idle and in neutral when i accelerate.

but when im in gear and im giving it gas and letting off the clutch it misses, backfires and stalls. it does this only sometimes. most of the time it will just backfire and bogg down quite a bit. then return to normal smooth idle. i dont know if this is a problem with ignition timing or aasomething with the clutch.( 3 speed on the column) have any of you had this problem? What is causing this?

Need more information to help you. For instance, has it been sitting up for years, has it just been overhauled, how old is the fuel, what have you checked so far?

We've got all the prep work done for the install. Put in the windlass today and tomorrow we're going to set it in. I've painted the rods, got the sound deadening ready and the rods are in the headliner. My brother in law has done two of these old Plymouths and he says to start at the back and work forward. I've heard it both ways. Any opinions? Mainly I'm concerned about the stretching and getting the wrinkles out. I talked to a pro and he said a steamer makes it really nice. Any advice would be appreciated.

Gnordlie,

How did the installation go on your headliner?

Tom,

Won't make a particle of difference. The regulator maintains voltage. You are better off than you friend with a 40 amp.generator since your battery will charge faster and you could add more equipment or devices if there were any 6 volt devices available. I have two 6 volt cars and there isn't much out there for accessories.

Jim Skinner

I am working on my headliner and when I get to that point I will attach the front first, then the rear, and finally the sides. Also I am running some extra electrical wires from the front to the trunk area while I have good access in case they are ever needed.

The factory installed the headliners wet. The installers came to the line with the headliner in a bucket of water. I will not attempt that as I know I won't be nearly as fast as someone who installed them everyday. Wouldn't it be fun to watch the pros install them back in the day at the factory?

I have used silicone DOT 5 for 10 years in 5 or 6 cars. It is a good choice and will not attack your paint like DOT 3. It will not attack the rubber components. I have DOT 5 in my '37 Ply. and '66 VW.

I know this site has been around this block before, but as I am getting ready to put my brakes back together, what again are the pros and cons of using silicone fluid?

I am replacing most of my lines and all wheel cylinders plus the master.

Was there an issue about it attacking rubber components?

You can get headliner foam and all sorts of supplies at www.wsusol.com

I bought their 1/4" grey for 6.99/yard, new tack strip, glue.

I used Dynamat Extreme sound deadener for the ceiling but went to a less expensive type to do the rear side areas. It will take the 36 sq.ft. kit for 210.00. Don't get it from Dynamat directly as they charge an extra 100.00 for some reason. Go to www.summitracing.com

Summit is great to deal with and they have Dynamat. For my second 36 sq.ft. kit I ordered Summits cheaper, 160.00 kit. Either type is foil backed and self adhesive. I am putting the headliner foam over the Dynamat.

I would check closely the grounds and battery cables. I have had to add a heavy ground wire or cable from the engine/transmission to the frame. Clean the surfaces at the battery cables both ends to insure good grounds.

Good Luck

Went for a ride yesterday with the wife. All was fine until the truck wouldn't start after it sat for about an hour while we visited relatives. Turned ignition on and got no power at all - no lights, no radio and no starter. After about two minutes, it came back to life and off we went. Unfortunately, as we approached one of the busiest intersections in town, the truck just died. Again, no power at all. A police officer showed up and parked behind us with blue lights on and my wife was, "so embarassed." I was ready to call AAA when all of a sudden, the power came back on and we drove it home without a problem. Back in my driveway, same thing happened. With total electrical failures like this, I'm thinking ignition switch problems. Any suggestions??? Zeke