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Dennis Detweiler

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About Dennis Detweiler

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth 4dr Sedan

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Play steel guitar in a band. Army 1970-72, coached club/rec/high school soccer, played in Branson.
  • Occupation
    Retired from partnership in painting and wallpapering commercial/residential business.


  • Location
    Solon, Iowa
  • Interests
    musician, old cars

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  1. I already have some cupro nickel ordered. Not sure if I want to replace both front lines or just add some to the old lines. The old lines seem to be in good condition, but I want to move both front lines (left and right) back a little farther to put the flexible lines to each caliper behind the caliper instead of the original position in front of the caliper. That position would be better located for more clearance in turning.
  2. Does it make any difference if some brake lines on the car are difference sizes? Does it matter to the function/feel of the master cylinder in this case? My rear brake lines are 3/16 and the front is the original 1/4. I'm in the middle of replacing the original master cylinder with a dual reservoir Wilwood. I may have to add some 3/16 brake line extensions onto the original 1/4 lines or just replace all of the front lines. I have front disc brakes and shoes on the rear.
  3. More photos. I can see already that I'll have to shorten the spacers to accommodate mounting the old master cylinder to the frame. The spacers will be between the frame and the new plate.
  4. Some photos of the Adapter sold by Scarebird for Wilwood Master Cylinder use. It lines up perfectly behind the original master cylinder. I need to use countersink flat head screws 1/4 X 1 inch to replace the three in the photos. The brake pedal passes too close to the plate to allow for regular bolt heads. I tapped the old Master Cylinder, but will still use lock washers and nuts on the inside of the reservoir. I made 1 1/16 long spacers between the original mounting holes and the new plate. I will still need to do some cutting on the new plate to clear the clutch arm. I'll keep you posted. More photos in next post....
  5. I had to remove the steering gear and send it to Nixa Missouri for restoration so, just now getting around to finding a location for the new M/C mount. The plate from Scarebird looks like it will likely mount on the side of the original master and the new master will mount behind the gutted old one. A new and longer pushrod will travel through the old master to reach the new master. I'll try and remember to take a few photos as it progresses.
  6. I haven't gotten around to installing mine yet. I was looking at and measuring another old original 39 master cylinder that came with the car when I bought it. The Scarebird mount won't be a simple bolt-on process. I'll have to add some kind of spacer to make it line up with the brake pedal. However, I won't know how much modifying I'll have to do to it until I remove the floor board and have a good look. I don't know how much modifying it would take on a 49
  7. Looks like my 39 Plymouth when I bought it. Previous owner crimped new to old and some old had no insulation, so he taped it up. Some crimps came loose. I re-wired one wire at a time and also used an original schematic for confirmation. I bought 4 spools of 4 different guage wires, soldered and used heat shrink tubing on all connectors. I added separate relays for dim and bright lights and horn. I also added 2 fuse panels/blocks, one for "always hot" circuits and one for ignition circuits. I also added 3 braided grounds (body, frame, engine). When finished, I made a new wiring schematic showing fuse panels, wire gauges and routing. The next owner won't have a problem locating wires and connections in an upgraded system. Lights are halogen and bright. Horn is loud. Charging system is great. I used wiring harness tubing to protect all wires. It's a long tedious process, but worth it.
  8. My 39 Plymouth....after buying a nos two wire guage and getting my my original guage working, I couldn't get either guage to register more than 3/4 full or empty while showing 1/4 of a tank. That scenario is after buying the proper new sending unit. So, I set it to show 3/4 of a tank when full and on empty when it is actually empty. I tried everything to remedy the problem. I also purchased a nos 38 guage, but it requires a single wire sender. The car has all new wiring and I retraced and retested the fuel tank wiring and all is good. If anyone knows why I'm getting 3/4 accuracy, let me know.
  9. Yes, I installed a new stock single reservoir master along with the front disc conversion and new shoes and wheel cylinders on the rear. I bled the system using two methods and ran a quart of brake fluid through it. I just didn't like the feel of the pedal. I initially installed new shoes and wheel cylinders on the front also, but didn't like the feel of it either. Hopefully, the Wilwood dual master will feel more trustworthy and solid. These old cars are heavy and I want to stop. I'll be replacing the original brake lines also.
  10. I used the Scarebird disc kit. Converting to Wilwood master cylinder this Spring.
  11. Why not a duck call? Baseball cards and clothes pins for a flapping sound? Are the old Thrush glasspacks still in production?
  12. I picked up an INLAND AM transistor radio on ebay for my 39 Plymouth. Model vwx-100 (6v). It has a switchable ground on the back. It measures: 1 3/4 high X 7 wide and 4 deep. However, my original radio is currently out of the car, but looks like it has been repaired with some new capacitors, but the speaker is shot and too difficult to remove, so someone just added speaker outlet wires to it. I'll be testing it when the weather permits me to get back into the garage. I may or may not need the INLAND radio.
  13. Hi Danny, I won't be able to work on the 39 until the weather warms up. It's in my unheated detached garage. I'm in Iowa and knee deep in snow this Winter.
  14. I settled on the Scarebird mount and the Wilwood 7563 master. The original master mounts in front of the brake/clutch pedals. Hopefully, I'll be able to bolt the adapter mount to the original frame location and still line up with the brake pedal, but doubtful. If not, I'll have to make some modifications.
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