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Dennis Detweiler

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About Dennis Detweiler

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth 4dr Sedan

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Play steel guitar in a band. Army 1970-72, coached club/rec/high school soccer, played in Branson.
  • Occupation
    Retired from partnership in painting and wallpapering commercial/residential business.

Converted

  • Location
    Solon, Iowa
  • Interests
    musician, old cars

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  1. Dennis Detweiler

    Where should I use relays?

    I'm in the middle of re-wiring my 39 Plymouth. I'm adding two fuse blocks (one for the ignition and one direct, fused at 50A). I'm using relays on the bright and dim headlights and horn. Should I use one on the original tube radio? Should I use one on the heater fan? The heater fan shouldn't draw much current.
  2. Dennis Detweiler

    POWER TO FUSE BLOCK help....

    After soaking in several schematics on-line I found my perception wrong. I have my 10 circuit fuse block connected with the battery at the solenoid with a large blade 50amp in-line fuse and 8awg wire. My new observation: I need 5 relays connected to 5 separate circuits on the fuse block that will operate with 5 separate on/off switches and also in injunction with the ignition (key) switch. Some circuits won't require to be connected to the ignition switch (eg. headlights or horn). I'm looking at my factory wiring schematic for a 39 P-8 and a few hot rod schematics. My 39 has fog lights and turn signals added and I haven't looked at how the previous owner wired them.
  3. Dennis Detweiler

    POWER TO FUSE BLOCK help....

    I'm installing a 10 circuit fuse block in my 39 Plymouth. Power is coming from the (battery) connection at the starter solenoid with a fused 8awg cable to the new fuse block. How do I connect to the ignition switch to make the circuits hot (on/off)? Use a large relay?
  4. Dennis Detweiler

    Where to mount fuse block

    The old horn relay wasn't functional. Someone took the glass fuse out and put a 1/4 in piece of metal rod in it's place, then wired it bypassing the relay. I took the relay off and found that it rattles when shook. Coil must be fried. I'll be putting a new relay on. I mounted a new 10 circuit flat blade style fuse box inside and above the steering column today. Another question: There is a wire to replace (looks like about 10awg) from the battery connection at the solenoid to the ammeter. It's not fused and original schematic doesn't show a fuse. Should I fuse it with it's own fuse in-line at the solenoid? Max output of the generator is 32 amps, so I don't think I should connect it to the new fuse block? I have an extra 4 circuit fuse block with a cover that I can mount on the firewall in the engine compartment if needing more circuits. Thanks for all of the info
  5. Dennis Detweiler

    Where to mount fuse block

    39 Plymouth rewire: should I mount the fuse block inside on the firewall or is it ok to mount it on the firewall engine compartment? It would be handier to work on in the engine compartment. It's a Bussmann, but no cover on it.
  6. Dennis Detweiler

    Rewiring! Ground the fuel sending unit?

    Just replaced the tank in my 39 with a poly. Also, a new sending unit. The sender has two wire connector studs that go to the fuel guage. Do I need to ground the base of the sending unit? I assume I can be sure which wires go to the proper connector studs after I hook up the battery and the tank is empty? If the guage shows full, I need to reverse the wires? I also added an electic fuel pump and will be using a relay along with an on off switch. I plan to use the electric pump to prime or if vapor locked. The mechanical pump is new. Carb is rebuilt. Am I on course here? I have to replace much of the cobbled shade tree re-wire job. I want to add relays to the heater, headlights, radio and anything else that's drawing a lot of current. Some wiring under the hood is still original and lost most of its insulation, so will replace it. The only relay I see on the 39 schematic is for the horn. I bought a 10 circuit marine fuse block. Someone put a handful of individual in-line fuse holders wadded up inside the dash with no labeling. Got to trace all of them and switch to the new fuse block. Wires are crimped together and crimped to connectors. It's a mess! I'm surprised everything works.
  7. Dennis Detweiler

    Fuel Tank Too Near Exhaust Pipe?

    I'm installing a new poly fuel tank in my 39. The car has a split manifold and custom welded dual exhaust. The pipes have a steel rod welded between them before they bend around the tank, so I can't separate them any farther apart. The new tank has 1 inch of clearance from the pipes on each side. Too close? Should I fabricate a heat shield on each side of the tank? Or, cut the rod and spread the pipes apart a little more? Or, is 1 inch clearance enough?
  8. Dennis Detweiler

    39 Fuel Tank & Elec Pump

    Tom, looks like a fairly easy mod bracket. I have a big drill press in my shop and could probably make one. I'll check into Butch's. Thanks
  9. Dennis Detweiler

    39 Fuel Tank & Elec Pump

    Thanks for the heads up. Yes, it has radials on it and the steering parts are all original. I'll talk to their alignment specialist with details before I take it in. I have an original copy of the shop manual with specs, but those won't apply. There are a couple of classic/antique/hot rod car clubs in the area that will likely point me to the best alignment service. I'll get the disc brake conversion on it in advance.
  10. Dennis Detweiler

    39 Fuel Tank & Elec Pump

    Steering and stopping is my priority right now. I want the car to be easy to drive. After I bought it last Fall, I drove it 35 miles to my home. The steering needs some work. It's a little squirrely on the highway. Steering seems tight, but it likes to wander. I'll have a reputable shop do an assessment and alignment on it. Tomorrow, I'm heading to Yogi's for a tank and sending unit. Next is a front disc brake kit. Anything remaining after that is minor repairs or subject to tweaking. Thanks for the input
  11. Dennis Detweiler

    39 Fuel Tank & Elec Pump

    Thanks for the input. I'm heading to Yogi's classic car parts in Monticello (about 45 minutes from me) tomorrow for a tank and sending unit. I didn't know there was such a parts store this close to me until I googled it. Can I burn 10% ethanol in my recently rebuilt carb without dissolving some of the innards? I'll check into the master cylinder options, but definitely want to get discs on the front to help stop this sedan tank.
  12. Dennis Detweiler

    39 Fuel Tank & Elec Pump

    It's finally Spring in Iowa. I started working on my 39 Plymouth. The top of the tank was leaking, so I dropped it today. The top was leaking around the rotted sending unit gasket. The sending unit arm is rusted (frozen), won't move. The bottom of the tank has former repair areas bulging with rust. I scraped a few of them and it started leaking. I'm leaning toward replacing the tank with a poly tank. I can get the new tank and sending unit for $275.00. Are there any forum members that would recommend taking the old tank to a shop for refurbishing or is it better to just replace it? Maybe the repair cost would be about the same as a new tank? I bought an in-line electric fuel pump that I plan to install near the tank outlet. I have a new mechanical pump on the engine, but thought I'd add the electric anyway. Ok idea or not? After the fuel problem is solved, I'm investing in a front disc conversion kit. I put all new (Chinese) wheel cyliners, master cylinder and shoes on all four last Fall. The front left cylinder is already leaking. Hopefully, the master cylinder will hold up for a while? The rear axle is late 40's early 50's. The rest of the car is original....so far. Engine was rebuilt 10,000 miles ago, but one freeze plug has a slow leak and needs replaced. There is no oil filter on it, but I have one ready to install. I appreciate any input or suggestions. Thanks, Dennis
  13. Dennis Detweiler

    Setting timing

    Where do you connect the vacuum guage?
  14. Dennis Detweiler

    Transmission question 1939 Plymouth

    I ran into a similar situation with my 39 Deluxe. However, my shifter cable was worn off enough that I couldn't get enough adjustment on the cable to make it shift to 1st & reverse. I couldn't find a new cable. They only made that system in 1939 for the Deluxe only and went to a double shifter arm in 1940. You'll also need to get the gearshift rails for the top shifter. The rails that are currently in your tranny are designed for the cable system and won't work with the top shifter. So, you'll need the floor shifter plate with floor shifter and the rails. Should be easy to find, since they used the same rails for several years in the floor shifter transmissions. I have a spare floor shifter and plate that I'll sell for $50.00 plus shipping. I don't have the rails.
  15. Dennis Detweiler

    New Wheel Cylinder Leaking

    Well shazam! I think I'll just buy a front disc conversion kit. At least the quality of the brakes will be on the front half of the car and worry about the rear later. The rear axle is a late 40's early 50's Plymouth. Which conversion kit do you recommend? Maybe we'll start opening more factories in the U.S. in the near future and we won't have to depend on China for new junk products. I'd rather pay more for quality and service. I'm capable of doing my own mechanic work, short of machining my own parts.
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