Pauls_Plymouth

VW was 6 volt up to 1966. If you are so inclined - ebay should have all these 6 volt ignition parts

Hi Wayne, also you can quick check the coil. Using a screw driver, arc any plug wire to ground. If the spark arc is white coil is "ok", Red spark coil is weak ,blue spark coil is like new.

blue71c, I have a few internal pics of my 218 after full overhaul, I will load them on here if they aren't too big. I ported the head and valve chambers so they are smoother. It runs like a champ with the two carb set up. The exhaust is a straight through stainless muffler from Summit racing.It is single with a larger opening than stock. It breathes good no problem. The vacuum gage shows no exhaust restriction reving up the . motor. It needs a few more minutes to warm up when cold as the fuel mixture doesn't have all the casting nubs (ground away with porting) to diffuse the gas/air mixture when cold. But it smooths out very nicely before full operating temperature is reached.

Mike36 is right. I used a new stock cam when my 218 was overhauled, but i smoothed out the valve chambers & head for a better flow. I added Offenhauser dual 1 bbl manifold. It runs great, reves smoothly once the engine is broke in. No need for a race cam.

Just so you know that convertibles have the "X" frame, that makes trans swap more difficult with less clearance. Great idea for the floor pan.

54 wa still 6 volt. It looks like the starter that smokes was defective (internal short) before you got it. You say it smokes, did it spin?

congrats on a great find. Suggestion on the OD. pull the trans & motor together. The od will be a daunting task putting it in from under the car. Yes,the 3 speed comes out ok, but the od will want to roll around on any trans jack, X frame makes it more of a challenge. Good luck!

Yes, I successfully jumped my 54 Plymouth with my 65 Mustang back in the 1970's . First I connected positive to positive (ply pos ground) Connected the negative to 12 volt mustang, then BRIEFLY touched the neg 12 volt cable to the far side of the Plymouth solenoid, directly to the 6 volt starter cable. Fired right up, pulled the neg 12 volt cable away from the 6 volt starter. Then i sat down as my heart was going faster than the mustang ever went. It worked, no problem afterwards.

Vinegar will dissolve rust in 24 hours. Flush it with mineral spirits after the vinegar, or rust will start up again.

Several on eBay, i just got a left outer with fast delivery. top quality.

Ace hardware near me has a big selection of springs, big, small. I would not use any of them for brake return springs.

Scabbard kit for my 51 Plymouth, plus rotors, callers, etc cost me about $500. The master cyl conversion was in addition to the wheel ,brakes, all well worth it

No experience with this bracket, but it looks like it bolts up to the original bracket in place of the generator. The smaller spaced part looks like it will hold an altenator.

12.3 volts at the battery is not charging the . battery. Rev the engine up to 1700 rpm & charging voltage should be 12.6 or better. Electricity is like water, you need more flow (charge) at generator to get more than 12.3 at the battery. 12.3 volts is just the same as water at sea level, not doing much. I put a 6 volt Optima battery in my 51 Plymouth, what a difference - don't need to change to 12 volt. good luck.

Too often someone goes berserk bidding too high, when the item can be had for lots less elsewhere, or at a different time on . eBay. Chances are there will be many carb sync. meters for sale now that one went too high. Just wait & you should be able to get one reaonably. In a pinch i used a rubber hose to listen to the air flow differences between the carbs. Better yet, go to a medical uniform store & buy the cheapest sthescope they have with the longest length tube (single tube-not double tube) Then cut off the bell end leaving as much tubeing as you can on the end. . When done tuning carbs, stick a nail into the end of the sthescope tube & you have a engine noise locator.