Royal Duke

Thank you Tom. I will find a local auto body paint supply house and would like to drive my car there so they can scan the paint directly from various areas of the car. The firewall is probably the best spot of all. Duke

Thanks to all. I was hoping that this was going to be an easy fix, but based upon what all of you noted, my best bet is to go to an auto paint supply house. Duke

Guys, I need to touch up several spots on my 1941 Chrysler Royal. The paint code is 813 (Gunmetal Gray). My question is whether the Gunmetal Gray used on the newer Chrysler cars is the same as that used on my oldie but goodie. I know, I could buy cans of paint and proceed to find out, but I would like to avoid spending money needlessly and having multiple colors on the car. Any guidance would be appreciated. Duke

Thank you joe. I'll try it tomorrow.

I need to replace one of the headlights on my '41 Chrysler Royal. I removed the screw at the bottom of the door and tried to pry the door off without damaging it or scratching the paint on the old girl. I could not get it off. Is there a secret to removing these? Should I have pried harder? Duke

Before spending your hard earned money, I suggest you watch this video. It is very informative and could save you lots of trouble and expense down the road. https://www.motorbiscuit.com/giving-your-old-car-led-headlights-usually-isnt-worth-it/ I intend to drive my 1941 Chrysler Royal quite a bit and for safety's sake was going to update my lighting. This video gave me a lot to think about. Duke

Thank you Dodgeb4ya. I need to learn as much as possible so that I can enjoy and confidently drive my '41 Royal. Duke

I keep reading about arcing the shoes. How does one go about doing that if indeed needed?

Thanks Tod. I was not aware of that. I may try to get the special tool used to ensure that they are properly adjusted. I know the tool is few and far between and costly if one could even be found. Joy is.

I think my brake shoes are aligned properly within the drums. They aren't dragging or anything like that. I will be installing a new MC which I purchased from Kanter when I get back to CT later this month prior to shipping the car down here. I was thinking of driving the car down here sightseeing along the way. For the reasons mentioned in my prior reply and this reply, I just want to get the best stopping power available without changing everything out.

My car is original and I am not interested in driving fast. I am retired and don't need to get anywhere in a hurry. However, being in the Miami area of FL introduces dangers and crazies that I did not encounter in Connecticut. Not that there aren't crazies in CT, but the ones down here are in a much higher league. AA in CT versus Major League in FL.

Thanks to all for the advice. Duke

While speaking to another 1941 Chrysler Royal owner about the brakes on our cars, I mentioned investigating a disc brake conversion. He offered an alternative and so I am writing to ask if anyone on here has tried this idea, how it worked out, if you have any photos of the installation or shop manual pictures of it. What I am referring to is installing a 1953 -54 Chrysler vacuum operated brake booster under the car. Any and all advice/guidance would be appreciated. duke

Countryss - I think I'd like to do this conversion for my 1941 Chrysler Royal. Can you give me the exact name of the vendor you purchased the alternator from. I called both Kanter and Bernbaums. Neither one had it. I'd appreciate your guidance. Duke

If you need to have the clutch rebuilt, I suggest you contact Joe at H R Clutches (215) 639 7150 and tell him what you have. They might be able to build a clutch especially for you. Wayne

Dodge4ya - my brother helped me yesterday and today and we got it all figured out. He checked the wires the previous owner installed for the Fluid Drive system. we then hooked them up according to the shop manual. We also took the diaphragm apart and checked the operation of the stem. The stem was not extending all of the way out to push the transmission mounted lever into the power range. The tranny was stuck in the drive range which kept pressure on the gears and didn't allow the car to roll on an incline (Even with the clutch engaged) or shift out of reverse when stopped. Now that the wiring reflects the schematic and the tranny shifts into the power range, my problems are solved. I appreciate your earlier guidance because it gave me possible causes for the problems experienced. Wayne

I agree that the M4 is a good strong transmission and i am doing all i can to make it operate correctly. i did have to add some 10w oil to the tranny tonight, but so much, or so i think anyways, to have caused the tranny to not hold the upshift. This weekend I will perform the various tests noted in the shop manual. Depending on what i find, I will then document the current wiring, remove it, and. install new wiring using the correct colors as shown in the 1941-1948 Chrysler Shop Manual. I'll let you know how it turns out

Dodgeb4ya - Thanks for responding. I will answer each question: I do have the shop manual and portions of the "Service Reference Manuals" which I have been reading and rereading, however, none of them mention the type of problem i am experiencing. The lockout cable is in. I actually think my problem developed when i pulled that out while driving the car, but i now have the cable pushed in and the piston back in position for the lever shift. The diaphragm is not ripped or torn. It is in good shape. The M4 is not stuck in high range. It moves between the high and low ranges easily. In fact that is another problem I'm having. It won't "hold" the shift into the higher range. Later today I am going to check the transmission fluid to make sure I have enough pressure to "hold" the upshift. The original controls were jury rigged by the previous owner. I am going to have to rewire the system and am currently trying to find a source for the 10 ohm wire leading to the solenoid Any ideas as to a source? Thanks, Wayne.

Yes , my driveway has a slight downward slope, so when I back up, I am going up a slope. However, the problem is evident even on a flat road surface.

Hey guys, i am still working on my 1941 Chrysler Royal, more specifically the M4 Vacamatic transmission. When I shift the car into Reverse to backup and stop, I cannot shift it out of Reverse. The car must be in motion for me to shift it into Neutral. Furthermore, the car will not roll in either direction when in Reverse, even if I have clutch engaged. I don't have this problem while in Neutral or a forward gear. Any ideas as to resolve the problem could be would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for the suggestions. I checked the diaphragm and it is in good condition. I was thinking the same thing regarding the clutch release bearing. I'm hoping I don't have to remove the tranny yet. I want to pursue all options before going to that extent.

Guys, I have a 1941 Chrysler Royal with the M4 Vacamatic. I've written previously about my car 'searching" for the higher shift in both the Power and Drive ranges. I am still having an issue with that, but my more immediate problem concerns the transmission locks up in reverse and will not roll even with the clutch depressed. A little history here: I drove the car to Connecticut from Florida over two years ago. I think I mistakenly pulled the cable for push starting the car WHILE driving. So now, when I shift the car into reverse to move, I absolutely have to shift it into neutral while still moving OR I cannot move the shift lever. Also, upon startup, I hear a noise like a stick dragged across a picket fence which disappears when I push in the clutch. Engaging the clutch causes the noise to occur again. Any ideas as to what I may have done and hopefully how to resolve this problem? I would appreciate any help you can provide.

I purchased this 1941 Royal from a gentleman in Yakima, WA in December 2016 and had it delivered to me in the Tampa area of Florida. I drove my 1941 Chrysler Royal from Tampa to Connecticut in May 2017. I drive it 2-3 days a week during the Spring, Summer, and Fall while I am in CT. When I attend car shows, it receives as much or more attention than restored muscle cars. Once I get the issue of the FluidDrive not holding the high range shift (possibly lack of adequate vacuum), I want to drive it to Hemmings Motor News in Bennington , VT for one of their Thursday night cruises. The car is all original and sorted out just enough to keep it on the road.

i saw this car yesterday in Dade City FL car cruise. It is as nice "in person" as you see in the pictures. Royal Duke

Thank you 1955 Fargo. I will trace out the wiring on my car to see if it matches what you sent. Another thing I think i will try is to use some carb cleaner to see if possibly the kickdown is stuck inside the carburetor and thus affecting the shifting of the transmission.