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About 48hoopty

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/04/1970

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Las Vegas
  • Interests
    Golf. Wood working. Hot rods
  • My Project Cars
    48 plymouth <br />
    76 C10

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    That's a long story.
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Las Vegas
  • Interests

Recent Profile Visitors

349 profile views
  1. 48hoopty

    Fuelling multiple carbs

    I'm using an electric pump with regulator. Seems the stock mechanical gets too hot in vegas summers by the manifold and vapor locks. Crappy gas don't help.
  2. 48hoopty

    found source for bolt in dual master cylinder

    I read thru the KRAP post. I'll just tell them I'm running a front disc rear drum set up. Get my bracket and hope for the best. Need to get that so i can get it finished. Thanks for the link and in depth look at issues and fixes.
  3. 48hoopty

    found source for bolt in dual master cylinder

    I've been in touch with ECI three times about their kit for my 48. All 3 times they wouldn't take my order. All I want is their bracket. They take issue with the rear brakes (8.8 explorer disc). Their mc isn't set up for that. I explain I'm going with a wilwood remote reservoir mc and they pretty much hangup on me. I've heard they got the kinks worked out pedal alignment, etc. Another group I'm in a guy bought one and had severe issues with thw trans being in the way. A brake system is a pretty simple hydraulic set up. I just want a simple install. Not trying to figure the geometry out to build one from scratch. Don Coatney since its been a few years since you're install how has it performed? Any issues with hardware or brackets? Thanks
  4. 48hoopty

    Rear shock relocation

    This is a quickie drawing. My rear shocks mount to the frame. The lower mount was below the plate originally that's why I . My shock mount is 1/2" so I welded as grade 8 bolt with the head cut off.
  5. 48hoopty

    Rear shock relocation

    I got my spring pads for 15.00 from 4 wheel parts. They have a local shop here in Vegas. For the plate I used a piece of 3/8 channel which I mounted the shock to. I boxed the ends for stiffness. I would add pix but I'm in the process of moving and they are packed. I can draw you up a quick plan if you want. Pm me and I'll send it to you.
  6. 48hoopty

    1946 Plymouth Coupe Rear Brake Upgrade

    I'm lost on this. Why go that route when you can get a very modern amd reliable disc system. Stops better, parts easily available, very reliable. An 8.8 disc moves the parking brake to the rotors. I'm not sold on the ECI kit for a couple reasons. Namely the keeping the old rear as I'm not a big fan if the 4.10 ratio. If stopping is a priority, as well as reliability, ease of maintenance and durability, I'd swap the complete rear. The original brakes are ridiculous expensive and the fact that a special tool is needed to install makes keeping the drums more a novelty. If the bendix plates use the same drums and internals why do it in the first place.
  7. Thanks...exactly what I was looking for. ECI has a bracket that comes with either a corvette or mustang MC. Both are 1". The OEM explorer is also a 1". I was looking at wilwood with either 15/16 or 7/8 remote reservoir MCs. Didn't think there would be an issue except maybe a little more leg pressure.
  8. 48hoopty

    1946 Plymouth Coupe Rear Brake Upgrade

    ECI hot rod brakes has a front disc upgrade, a rear disc upgrade (using the OEM axle) and a master cylinder bracket to add a dual circuit master cylinder. Quite spendy considering you can swap an 8.8 disc rear replace front coils and rear leaves etc for the cost of their rear kit.
  9. I knew that in my brain just didn't type it right. As the master cylinders provided with the kit both have 1" piston. I could drop down to a 15/16 or even a 7/8" mc that should increase line pressure. Typical brake systems operate at 1000 to about 1200 lbs. But with the small pistons in the ford caliper what kind of pressure is needed to actuate the piston. The other avenue is the pedal pivot ratio. I could change that via bell crank to increase pressure and lessen pedal effort as well. I've done a lot of work on race cars with either manual discs or hydroboost. Since hydroboost is out of the question, I'm left with manual. I'm more inclined to use a mc with remote reservoirs. Also thinking that a power booster isn't a fail proof part and I can't see allowing the brakes to just crap out on an explorer since there isn't any power assist. So evidently the OEM mc on an explorer provides sufficient line pressure in manual mode to adequately stop the vehicle. So do I use the explorer mc. A call to wilwoodhas already been made will know more tomorrow when they return my call with answers.
  10. This is what I was looking at http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/chrysler_master_assemblies.html Spoke with their in house tech and was told about the pressure issue. Just wanted some feed back if anyone was running manual discs. I've done manual disc on others using Cadillac calipers and everything worked like a champ. In a simple hydraulic system the piston should still actuate regardless if there was a booster or not. Wonder if it just makes peddle pressure so hard it's not acceptable. Really a pain in the donkey since I've got a disc rear ready to bolt in, with all new parts on it. Can always go to a larger piston master cylinder to get more volume and pressure.
  11. So I went to order the 2 pot master cylinder adapter from ECI and was told that the ford 8.8 discs will not operate in manual that they require a power booster. Definitely sucks since I scrounged a 3.55 limited slip disc rear. I've seen threads of others who have done this swap and would like some input. I was told that due to the small pistons it requires higher pressure to move them. I asked about compensating thru the proportioning valve and couldn't get an answer. For those that have done the swap did you stay with manual brakes or add a booster. With an adjustable proportioning valve were you able to get the brakes to operate. Are pedal pressures higher. I'm not looking forward to scrounging for a drum rear. I won't add a power booster to the firewall and don't really want to add one under the floor. I've read plenty of forums from the HAMB to here and nothing really discusses trials and tribulations of have a manual 8.8 disc setup. Thanks
  12. 48hoopty

    Question; leaf springs

    I'm in the market to replace the rear leads on my 48. Couple of guys on here said they have swapped 49 springs in place. Went to the spring shop here in town and the old guy whipped out a book from 1956. According to the book the only difference between springs from 37-52 is deflection rate and the amount of leaves. 37-48 are all identical. From 49 on less leaves and deflection rates. Measurements are the same. My question is anyone swap to the 49 and later springs what rate did you use and what were the lowering measurements from original. Stock 48 springs are 800 lbs for standard duty and 1000lbs for HD. Later rates range from 520, 600, 640, 700. No springs from 49 on were over 700 unless they were on a wagon. Thanks.
  13. 48hoopty

    What's the std wheel specs??

    I have a 48 plymouth so I don't know if they relate but I used a ford ranger or explorer steel for mockup on my tires. It is a 15x6 with 12mm offset. The tires are H78-15. I have about 3/4" in front between the tire and tierod end. The rims I'm going to use are 15x6 steelies with 3.75" backspace or about 6mm offset. Should gain me 1/4" or so on the front. No issues in the rear with either rim.
  14. 48hoopty

    Tyre width

  15. 48hoopty

    Tyre width

    Today I mocked up my tires to see what kind of issues I would have and to determine the backspacing in rims. I used a spare tire rim from an explorer. It's steel 15x6 with 4" backspace. Tires are Coker h78-15. They are about a 225-75-15 close to that. The section width is close to 9" wide. That being said I have about 3/4" between tire and the rod end. No issues with turning. At the rear it fit perfect with the stock rear, however I am installing an explorer 8.8 and will use a 1/4" spacer to keep it away from some flanges on the body. No other clearance issues and I can't move it too far out due to the fender skirts. Actually how the fit surprised me. I thought these tires were going to be too big but they fill up the wheel well nicely..just need to lower it now.

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