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bamfordsgarage

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Everything posted by bamfordsgarage

  1. That is a tough situation. I’m new to your story… is the engine in the car and running now? If so and you landed a decent shop to do the rebuild, would you do the R & R yourself or prefer to drop off the car and pickup when done?
  2. Thanks for asking. This link should do it: https://p15-d24.com/topic/28444-arctic-adventure/#comment-284066 The photos show up as thumbnails but expand enough to do the trick. It's a pretty long thread — kinda felt we were taking half the forum with us up there with plenty of commentary back and forth. One of my favourite trips for sure and great fun to share. Here are a couple photos: On the 112 mile ice road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk, our ultimate destination. The ice road is no longer, having been replaced several years ago with an all-weather gravel route. Second photo is in Tuk at the furthest-north point one can drive in mainland Canada. The Beaufort sea is directly behind the Dodge.
  3. Thanks Rich, that was a very fun trip. One of our many highlights was meeting up with several forum members along the way. First photo below is at a member's place near DC where we left the car for several months before picking up again and heading for the Gulf Coast. That's Rodney on the left, my traveling buddy Jerry, the next three more forum members (one of whom, Jim, kindly stored the car for us) and me on the right. We all six of us piled into the car to go for lunch in a neighbouring town. Apologies that all last names, and two of four first names, are lost to the sands of time. Final two pics are Camp 47 Dodge at 2010 Hershey. Squint carefully and you can detect a bit of shine in the paint!
  4. A few more photos: Alberta prairies with the Rocky Mountains in the distance; We dropped Ryan's Model A rad off at the repair shop on the way; Bob and his dad are restoring this lovely '31 Imperial and we stopped in at the body shop to deliver a few items; This postwar Chrysler was in the swap meet car corral, but no price was listed.
  5. Friday AM, Feb 10, Edmonton, AB: Four hardy souls set off for Lethbridge for the Early Bird Swap Meet on Saturday; our trusty steed my rusty and ragged '47 D25 Sedan. Clearly, many fingers had been crossed and much wood was knocked as the old heap never missed a beat. We splurged on a Motel 6 and arrived at the event's shiny new home at the supposed 8:00 opening bell. "Supposed" in that there was no line-up and already lots of shoppers roaming the aisles. We brought back some treasure — while the elders bought mostly books, young Ryan is building a Model T Speedster and checked several items off his wish list. We got home Saturday evening, everyone got roughly equal wheel time and the trip was an unqualified success. Three of us made a similar trip down to Lethbridge for the 2022 swap meet. Last year the Dodge was in the throes of a valve job and we were forced to travel modern. Total distance 691 miles Target cruising speed 50-52 mph, moving average 42.6 mph, top speed 59.0 mph. Fuel consumed 187.63 litres = 41.3 CdnGal = 49.6 USGal Gas mileage 16.72 mpgCdn = 13.9 mpgUS. The roof rack is no friend of fuel economy. Facebookers can view more photos at: https://www.facebook.com/EdmontonAntiqueCarClub
  6. Again, thanks for all who have contributed to the thread. Many worthwhile suggestions, particularly as the ignition and fuel systems have been largely neglected over my many years of ownership. A deeper dive into both is forthcoming this winter. In the meantime, I continued my quest for the Magic Bullet... gotta be something easy and quick I can do without all that work, right? In my experience, Sudden Onset can mean Something Just Changed and if we're lucky it's Something Easy to Fix. I consulted with a local club member, a retired independent mechanic who cut his teeth on '50s-70's cars. Sounds like fuel he said, possibly a blockage that drifts in and out of trouble. Recommendation #1: pull the top off the carb and look for junk in the float chamber... tried that, clean as a whistle. Recommendation #2: pull out the mixture screw and give a shot of air with a rubber-tipped gun to hopefully clear any blockage in the idle circuit or whatever... Bingo! Engine now starts, idles, runs like a champ. I have two test drives under my belt and about to leave for the third. If all stays well, great. Otherwise, if the problem returns I'll roll up my sleeves and approach it in a more thorough manner. Again, thanks to all for your comments and suggestions. Much appreciated.
  7. Thanks all for your replies. I think maybe I haven't got my key points across: 1. The idle speed varies up and down like a slow wave (peak and trough over a period of a few seconds) — this is a little hard to tell from the audio, but is clear when one views the tachometer and vacuum gauge at 0:48 and 1:02 in the linked video. 2. The issue is intermittent... Yesterday going for breakfast, no problem: starts, idles, runs like a champ. A couple hours later on a Home Depot run, the engine won't idle, wants to stall, needs throttle blips to stay running. It's like two different cars and I don't know which one is in the garage this morning. While I'm no mechanic, this behaviour does not sound consistent with stuck valves (did 'em this spring) or loose wiring/carbon tracks etc. I would really like a better sense of the potential cause before digging into individual components. PS: To clarify for Soth122003, mine is a Canadian-built D25, so essentially a Plymouth P15 with fancy name plates and no fluid drive.
  8. Hello all — my trusty D25 has developed an intermittent idle problem, and I'm hoping the hive mind here can point me towards the cause... This is a maybe-today, maybe-not-today issue. The car starts, idles and runs smoothly most of the time, but occasionally lapses into a period of variable, rough idle that wants a higher idea speed setting and is still prone to stalling. The plugs are recent; the plug wires, distributor cap and condenser are many years old,. I just swapped in a NORS vintage 6-volt ignition coil. HERE is a short video illustrating the issue. Key points: 0:11 and 0:24 revs ramp up and down; 0:48 revs ramp up and down on the tach; and 1:02 revs ramp up and down on the vacuum gauge. I suspect the carburation/fuel system. The vacuum gauge registers 11 inches at rough idea, 15 inches at smooth. All comments and suggestions most welcome!
  9. Well, the valve guide removal test on my parts engine went just fine. My spare air-hammer bits were all too short to push the guide out fully but no matter — my little air hammer wouldn't budge them anyway. Fortunately, a few well-placed blows with a sturdy hammer did the trick, and as b4ya predicted, the protruding guide broke off with little effort. I would expect the guides in my runner engine will move at least as easily. Ken, knowing what to look for led me to crossover charts for both intake and exhaust valves, the latter with 0.002 greater ID. Charts below. I'm sourcing them now. Thanks again to all who posted and Sniper, I'll put that snazzy tool on the list for when I do enjoy "...money for tools is no object..." Don't hold your breath.
  10. Very clever, and I have a lathe and some old air-hammer chisels. Excellent video as always. All I had on hand last night that would fit down the guide hole was 5/16" standard steel all-thread. Obviously and as fully expected, the guides just laughed and snapped the rod in two. Our local nut & bolt house has 8 mm all-thread (largest that will fit down the hole) in stock in an "8.8" higher-strength alloy (this is, apparently, the metric thread equivalent to SAE Grade 8). I was planning to make a more durable puller from this, until reading the comments below. Not clear here Ken... current production for newer engines I can see different IDs and part #s, but since you mention the 230, were you able to source different intake and exhaust guides for that vintage Mopar? What I found online from BernBaum was one guide only intake and/or exhaust. You had me at "back in the old days"... my late father—gone 23 years now—earned his mechanics license about 1948 and I've been imagining us doing this job together, with the tools and techniques from when my heap was new. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ I have a stuck parts engine for practice. It's from a '40s D25 and carries a 1957 rebuild tag. The donor car had a 1972 plate, so the various parts have been together for 50+ years. Plan A is to combine Keith's custom driver with b4ya's controlled clobbering and see if that does the trick on a couple guides in my parts engine. If it works, I'll order up a set of 12 guides and go from there. Plan B would be guide liners. Plan C would involve engine removal. Or maybe dynamite. Thanks to all for your comments and suggestions. Very helpful and very much appreciated!
  11. Thank you Marc. I expect installing the new ones from the top down to be straightforward, as you suggest. Pulling the old ones up out of the block where the have been for 75 years… that is the challenge!
  12. I need to address the worn valve guides in my 1947 D25 (25" Canadian block). This is a job I am inclined to do in car. The existing guides were knurled back to size in 2011 are once again worn out of tolerance — I assume they are the original guides, and that a re-knurl is not feasible. The factory service manual recommends a Mopar factory tool "DD-849" for removal and replacement of worn guides. A google search turned up nothing, as did a site search here. Can anyone shed light on what this tool looks like and/or how it works, and if it was intended for in-car use.? Another option is to ream and sleeve the existing guides in situ. From what I read, bronze liners offer 3-5 times the wear of cast iron, and an 11/32" ID is very close to what we need for Mopar valves of 0.341 stem diameter. I welcome your comments, experience and suggestions on how to proceed from here.
  13. Thanks all for your comments. We’re going to grind the valves at 44 and the seats at 45. And, probably, finish up with a light lap. The borrowed equipment I’m using has a good selection of stones of various angles.
  14. We have embarked on an in-car valve grind for my '47 D25. Two exhaust valves were burned and needed replacement. In reading up on the procedure, I find that there are two typical 'fits' between the valve and seat. One technique specifies an equal 45° angle for both components, the other specifies a slightly steeper 46° angle on the seat, the result of which is a slight interference fit. The drawing below from a 1970s auto-mechanics textbook illustrates both: A for equal angle, B for interference. Both are deemed OK, and the text instructs to follow the manufacturer's recommendation. I haven't found a Mopar recommendation for this fit. My factory workshop manual specifies the valve angle at 45° but is silent about the seat. My inclination is to go for the interference fit, but would like to know first what the factory recommended, and to hear learned and other opinions from the forum. Thanks in advance!
  15. Sometimes winter just seems awfully long to go without driving the oldies...
  16. Suggest you grab your new pump and hustle down to Pro-Fast at 28061 Jefferson Ave... they should be able to help with whatever is needed.
  17. A quick follow-up to the previous posts re my search for a regular miss... Compared the six existing spark plugs including the #2 stub: All seemed OK aside from a rather crusty #6: Based on this chart and others, #6 appeared to suffer from excess oil, oil additives, or fuel additives. I discounted the additives possibility, in that 1) I don't use any, and 2) only the one cylinder was affected: Next step compression test, which was my plan on Wednesday afternoon before breaking off the #2 plug. Given the appearance of plug #6, my expectation was a ring problem in that cylinder: To my surprise, if there's a ring problem it's apparently a relatively minor one in cylinder #3, but there are clearly valve issues in #2 and #6. Installed the new plugs (gapped to 0.035 for resistor plugs), fired up the engine and the miss is still there. Strangely, it still sounds like only the one cylinder despite valve problems in two. I have a couple other vehicles down for major repair, so the old heap is going to have to wait its turn. One good thing about the old car hobby... it keeps me off the street!
  18. Continued... 8. Brazed the extension nut into the stub. This brazing alone was probably enough heat to break the rust bond without the earlier heat cycles: 9. Nut and stub turned out as easy as you hope for. Three or four foot pound at most: 10: This is a mock-up, but how I'll be installing the replacement plugs (which are the exact same type that come out. Minus the rust): Thanks to all for your suggestions and encouragement. Now where's my gapping gauge...
  19. Success! I clearly hit the panic button too early, fearing most of the remaining five plugs would be equally recalcitrant, and that succesfully extracting one or more stubs would prove very difficult (hence my need for a new head gasket). 1. Two days soaking the five plugs and one stub with a 50/50 potion of acetone and ATF in the wells. 2. Tried removing the other five plugs before going after the stub... if they were also going to break, not much point in working on the one stub first. The other five did come out but not without some serious twisting. 3. The broken #2 plug offered a clear path into the cylinder: 4. Two heat-cool cycles on the stub. One might have been enough, but I favoured overkill. I figured my first shot at removal would be my best chance: 5. So far, so good. In event that I was successful, I didn't want any debris falling into the cylinder. I made this loose-fit plug from the straight shank of a 7/16" bolt: 6. I shaved the end of a 3/8" extension nut to allow a tight fit into the stub, and removed some plating to aid with brazing it into place: 7. Rat-a-tat-tat into the hole followed by a minute or so of medium blows to help dislodge the rust bond: Continued next post...
  20. Thank you Belvedere and Sam… those look pretty clever. Sadly the Home Depots here in western Canada apparently don’t carry them.
  21. Thanks all for your suggestions. Another helping of penetrant this evening. Sniper, so where the heck were you when I installed these plugs a few years ago??
  22. Well, that could have gone a lot better... In hindsight,I would have been smart to saturate the spark plug wells with a good penetrant (I use 50/50 Acetone /ATF) for a few days before attempting removal. Even that may not have been enough — these suckers have been in place for years, and have surprisingly little metal connecting the base and ceramic. Not going any further at this point... I can still move the car out of my sweetie's winter parking stall on five cylinders until I track down a new head gasket. This well and the other five are now saturated with penetrant to make removal easier once I get the head off. Live & learn ?
  23. I'm replacing the spark plugs in my 1947 D25. No particular reason other than old age and I'm chasing a bit of a mis-fire. The current plugs are 10+ years and many thousand miles old. Most of my driving is lower speeds and shorter trips with occasional longer runs at 50-55 mph (had a 600-mile weekend February). I run no on-board electronics other than an iPhone. The P15-D24 Resources page lists a variety of spark plugs; none are stocked at NAPA and most come up as a different number/manufacturer anyway. NAPA recommends, and stocks, an Autolite 306 Resistor plug for the 1947 P15. • Should I avoid a resistor plug given my lack of electronics and the (I assume) advantages of a stronger spark? • Are there potentially better plugs (heat range, manufacturer, etc) to consider given my driving conditions? Spark plugs with all their myriad of variations have been largely a mystery to me. Your wisdom and experience will be much appreciated!
  24. Right you are. I was thinking of arcing instructions expressed as so many thou clearance at each end of the shoe. If the correct shoe-end clearance results from a diametrical clearance of 0.030", that's very handy to know. Thinking further, the 0.030" smaller diameter is not enough of a spec in itself. Those linings could be 1/4" thick and be ground to a diameter 0.030 smaller than the drum, and still not fit. So, for my understanding would the correct formula actually be: Ideal lining thickness = 3/16" + (1/2 of drum diameter in excess of 11.000") - 0.015" (the radial clearance equal to the 0.030" diametrical clearance for arcing)?
  25. Fair enough James, and I stand corrected. My ‘get r done’ method would, I am pretty sure, get those shoes in the drum and the brakes working but would not be optimum and by the book. I am puzzled however by your statement that the shoes should be a “perfect match” to the drums… no arcing for a bit of clearance at each end? Also, if Marc’s drums have any amount of wear, I reckon a few thou longer pin length will not matter. IMO. Not trying to argumentative… just trying to offer practical suggestions. I rarely work on stuff this new, so perhaps my standards are too casual ?.
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