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Watash

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Everything posted by Watash

  1. Okay, great info, but this link is for truck photos.
  2. Yes, I will need to have it rewound.
  3. ivyolly52, I live in New Mexico as well. I also have a 52 Pilothouse in need of a starter. Did you ever find one and where did you get it? Thanks Watash
  4. 1950 B1-C from Brewer Oil Co. One of their original delivery trucks.
  5. Update: I took the distributor off and cleans and reoiled. Someone before me had taken the connector between the points and coilwire off. I put in a new connector and rewired the points. To my surprise, the bottom plate was bent. Not sure how this could even happen. I attempted to straighten it and it took my vise and a good bit of pressure to get it close to normal. Anyway, checked connectivity after all was done and it checked out. Good connectivity from distributor wire to base and points. When points opened so was the current, so all seems well. Reinstalled the distributor and the system still did not fire. I am running the current through a resistor that knocks the voltage down to 6volts which is how it was wired when it was running. Pretty much at a loss at this point.
  6. 1952 B3B...pretty darn good shape for 67 years...I found the turn signal lights and have wired them just not installed as of yet.
  7. Plymothy Adams, back to the "flexible" wire. Isn't it a ground wire anyway between the two plates?
  8. Jeff - the points I installed came from Autozone and they are their Duralast brand. Not sure the overall quality. If you can, I would like to have the Pertronix part number as I couldn't find the fit on their website.
  9. MBFowler - Thanks for the info. I will give that a try as well and check the wire.
  10. Thanks, I'll check it again... Opens and closes like it should.
  11. Thanks, points are clean and it ran good for several hundred miles, so I thinks parts are correct. What wire is the "flexible" wire you mention?
  12. Drove truck into garage and it sputtered and missed for first time ever. Acting like carb, but not sure. Two days later, I went to move it out of garage and it would not start. Turning over very well, but won't start. Really didn't even try. I coasted it out to its spot in the drive and didn't test it for a couple of days. It is getting gas and I even tried starting fluid to no avail. Next with a friends help, there is no spark. It has new distributor cap, new rotor, new points, new condenser, new wires and it has been driven 300 miles since the tune up and it ran great until that day. Check voltage to and from coil and it is good. Rechecked coil wire and it is good. At a loss...thinking something up with the distributor itself. Any ideas?
  13. I read the fine print. Mine is not for trucks but looks identical to the old one. I think car and truck must have different ohms. I may try a variable resister to see if I can real it in.
  14. Thanks I'll give this a try tomorrow.
  15. Okay here I go again. I have a 52 B3B converted to 12 volt. Coming off of a voltage resister, I have 7.25 volts going to the left terminal on the gauge (facing the back of the gauge) and the gauge ground is good. I ran a new 16 ga wire from the right terminal of the gauge to the terminal on the sending unit. The sending unit is new and identical to the one I removed only with a better float. Sending unit ground is good. Voltage at the sending unit terminal is 3.7 volts. Tank is approximately half full but the gauge stays pegged on full. I removed one lead from the gauge and checked the resistance between terminals. It measured 25 ohms and should be okay. The only explanation I can come up with is the new sending unit must be bad. Any thoughts are appreciated.
  16. A thought just occurred to me. Does the gauge itself have to be insulated or should it be grounded as well?
  17. I have to jump in here. My gauge is pegged at full after installing a new sending unit. I think the ground is good and the lead is good. I check continuity from the lead disconnected to frame and it was good. I am at a loss as what to do next.
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