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Daddyscar

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About Daddyscar

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Lancaster, CA
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Plymouth P9 RoadKing

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Inherited my dad's 1940 Plymouth. Trying to get it on the road.
  • Occupation
    Office Manager

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  1. Found a way to move a bunch of Fluid through the system which is really what you need to do to get the air out of the lines. We tried bleeding the brake system the conventional way but the master cylinder does not move enough volume to get the air out. So, we hooked up a CLEAR 5' x 1 inch hose to a threaded barb that matched the fill port of the MC. Filled the hose with Dot 3 brake fluid. Cobbled together a way to attach air nozzle to the end of the hose with fluid in it. Turned air compressor down to about 5 psi. I applied pressure and my husband opened up the bleed port on right front wheel.Remember to keep an eye on the fluid level in the hose. You certainly don't want to go empty and start pushing air though again. It took about 5 seconds of clear fluid running before bubbles started showing up. We had much difficulty because the wheel cylinder is below the line to the splitter on the left side of the car. If there is anyone out there scratching their heads and has a significant other complaining that their leg is cramping from pumping the darn brake pedal all day, I hope this helps. Cheers!
  2. Daddyscar

    1940 P9 MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL

    My husband grew up in Kutztown- not too far from KU Back to the task at hand- Rich - Thank you for the information and offer to assist. My Husband woke up early-before the oppressive heat of the sun- and was finally able to remove the MC. Apparently, it absolutely MUST be removed from the bracket that holds it to the frame. This may sound obvious but with no ability to see whats going on down there and no instructions in manual he thought that it would be easier to just remove the bracket. There are many parts of the car that hinder access and line of sight to the mounting bolts of the MC. The linkage goes through the mounting bracket . So that is what was keeping us from simply removing the Master Cylinder. The last time I worked on this car my Dad and I had all of the body work off the front end of the car. This made things MUCH easier. The mounting bracket is not mentioned or shown in the Shop manual nor the Service Manual. Go figure!
  3. Daddyscar

    1940 P9 MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL

    More like 60 miles North to North East of LA :-) . A horribly hot place to live in the summer.
  4. Daddyscar

    1940 P9 MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL

    Thanks Rich! The cylinder is unbolted; more precisely, the the bracket is unbolted from the frame, but the bracket and MC are still together. I have a "new" MC to put in its place, so I won't need to remove the innards of the cylinder itself. What is most confounding though, is that, yes, the rod should simply fall out, or I should be able to simply lift the MC out the car leaving the rod hanging off of the pedal. The boot was completely shot, so there's no telling how long or how much corrosion could be in there. AFAIK, it's been a California car all its life and in a garage for the last 20 some years. I'll continue trying to break the rod loose, and if I have to, I may just take it out piece by piece (piston out, etc) Hopefully some more folks with P9 experience will chime in. I worked on the Plymouth and a toilet today; toilet is fixed, the Plymouth...not so much. BTW, I'm originally from the Kutztown area. (I'm responding on behalf of my wife who has started this thread)
  5. Daddyscar

    1940 P9 MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL

    I am assuming you had to remove a floor pan? I just don't see how that can be done on this P9. Also my master cylinder looks different. The clutch does not attach to the MC. I have attached photos of new as well as old still attached to the car (obviously). I just can't figure out what is holding the piston push rod inside. Item number 6 in fig 53
  6. Daddyscar

    1940 P9 MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL

    We are having trouble removing the master cylinder from the car. Is there some trick? I have a Shop Manual and the original service manual I can not find anything on the actual removal . There is a stub that is attached to the brake pedal that sits inside a receptacal in the master cylinder. It does not thread in so if the mount bolts and brake line is removed why can't the master cylinder simply be lifted out.
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