Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Tubman

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Hot Rods and old cars, anything old and mechanical
  • My Project Cars
    "T" tub with a 331 Hemi, Vintage dirt modified with a modified 331.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Been an early Hemi guy for a long time. Currently running two of them.
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Breezy Point, MN
  • Interests
    Old cars
  1. Setting timing

    "kencombs" is correct, as long as the advance mechanisms in the distributor are functioning properly. Unfortunately, this is not always the case.
  2. Setting timing

    For the initial timing that would be OK. If you have (or can borrow) a "dial-back" timing light, you should be looking for a total advance (at speed) somewhere in the mid twenties. With a good vacuum advance, 4 -8 more can be added in at cruise (high vacuum conditions). EDIT : I just checked a couple of sources and it seems factory spec for initial advance is 0°, so the 4° to 7° you are quoting may be a bit much. I will defer the final decision to the Mopar experts here.
  3. Setting timing

    There are a few outfits out there with the old Sun machines that specialize in refurbishing and setting up "traditional" ignition systems. One example is "Bubba's Hot Rod Shop" in Indianapolis. Anyone spending several thousand dollars dollars on a new engine for their car would be well advised to send their distributor in for a "tune-up" as well. It's not that expensive. I share your opinion of Pertronix ignitions. There are far too many stories of them dying without notice at the most inconvenient times and in the most inconvenient places. I have never had a points ignition fail without providing plenty of notice. They just start to degrade very slowly. Anyone with an old car should be able to detect this in plenty of time to get home and correct the problem. As to points, there are quality examples available, you just have to know where to look for them. Myself, I have a "thing" for old Mallory "flattop" distributors, and Summit racing still has points for them. The only problem with component availability is with condensers. There are quality conventional condensers available if you know where to look. Unfortunately, the supply of the big brass Mallory "trash can" condensers seems to have completely dried up. Because of that, I am now reproducing them using modern severe-duty film capacitors. If anyone has any interest in them, they can contact me. Here's a couple of examples :
  4. Setting timing

    At the risk of getting too deep into the subject, I believe that it needs to be said that having the correct timing when the engine is at operating speed under load is more important than initial timing. Let's face it, if the car starts and idles, it's probably OK. Cars spend most of their time under power going down the road, and this is where having the correct timing is most important. One of the best things you can do is to use an timing light with an adjustable advance to at least check to see if the advance mechanisms (mechanical and vacuum) are working correctly. Beyond this, the use of a distributor machine (such as a sun unit) allows the advance curve to be checked and tailored to the engine. Done right, the distributor will have the proper initial advance for easy starting and idling and the proper increase in advance at higher RPM's and under load for optimum performance and fuel economy.
  5. Setting timing

    I don't know whether this works with a Pertronix. I'll leave that to others more familiar with them to explain. As to setting the timing with a vacuum gauge. What I do is get the engine running at a decent idle, and then twist the distributor, while watching the gauge.Turn the distributor (advancing it) until the vacuum gauge registers it's highest reading. Then, retard it just a smidge and tighten down the distributor. I always time my engines this way, especially modified ones. When you change the carburetor, compression, cam, or any other component affecting engine performance, you change the basic characteristics of the engine and the factory specs may no longer be valid. The light does get it very close to the factory initial setting which is very close to what the engine needs at low speeds.
  6. Setting timing

    For those of you without timing lights, here's a little trick. Put a test light in series between the distributor and the coil, and turn the engine until the timing marks line up to where the initial timing should be. The bulb will go on when the points close and off when they open. Since the spark is generated when the points open, turn the distributor just until the light goes out. The initial timing should be just about right on.
  7. Watching ebay pays off

    In this vein, how many of you are aware of eBay's "Saved Searches"? I am looking for a couple of things and have "Saved Searches" for them. If someone lists something I am looking for, I get an email the next morning. Last week, I was able to score a Hurst 3-speed "Master Shifter" (the "good one") for $25. You have to do some creative thinking to come up with the proper arguments to snare what you're looking for, but it's served me very well.
  8. Kev's Turbo Flat Six

    Anybody else notice he is using a rubber band for a fan belt? I wanted to get one of my engines going on my test stand but couldn't get the proper fan belt. I was so eager to see how it would run, I went to the local office supply store and bought a bag of the biggest rubber bands they had. Not only did they work fine, but the original set I used lasted through a couple of hours run time until the proper belts arrived a week later.
  9. Welding uh-ohs

    Boy, after reading this thread, I went back and looked at the initial picture. In my opinion there is something really wrong going on that can't be corrected by just going to solid wire and gas. I keep a roll of flux core around in case I run out of gas at an inconvenient time, and I never had results like this from it. My suggestion would be for the O/P to go out and buy a fresh spool of flux core, get a couple of scrap pieces of appropriate gauge clean sheet metal and try again, varying the speed and power settings. If he doesn't get significantly better results, he should find someone with a working mig that he can try. I think there may be something wrong with his welder.
  10. The problem here is that none of this stuff ever gets any cheaper. I am building an Olds Rocket for another project. To use one, you need a special lower housing that moves the starter from the left side of the engine to the right. Over the last couple of years, I passed on two that were "too expensive" and I'm still kicking myself. Unless the price is way out of line, I would suggest you grab something if you want it. The nice thing about eBay is that you can search the actual "Sold" listings and determine what a reasonable price is.
  11. Home Made Intake and Exhaust

    It looks like the SBC headers were a close fit. I'll bet it saved a lot of time and expense. And finally, a good use for old SBC parts!
  12. any thing that can go wrong will

    Do you have a multi meter? Set it to the proper "ohms" scale and first test the primary circuit (between the two smaller terminals). It should be in the range of 3 to 8 ohms. Then use it to check the secondary circuit (coil tower terminal to the coil case). That reading should be in the 10,000 to 25,000 ohm range. This is not a definitive test, but a good start. Infinite ohms on either circuit show an open in the coil. No resistance (zero ohms) show a short. If either of these conditions exist, beg, buy ,or steal another known good coil.
  13. 12 volt conversion and the fluid drive

    I would think someone here knows. Have you tried searching for "Gyro-matic" or "Gyro Matic"? The title of your thread is a little misleading when it references "Fluid Drive". If you don't get any response here, you might try the H.A.M.B. There was a discussion about these transmissions going on over there a couple of days ago.
  14. 12 volt conversion and the fluid drive

    If you have an actual Fluid Drive (like "paulbone" above), I don't think you have to do anything. However, if you have the semi-automatic transmission that was called "Gyro-Matic", there is some work to be done. Unfortunately, I don't know what it is. Your car should have one of those two names on it that should tell you what you have.
  15. Is the H.A.M.B. down?

    I know some of you guys must visit the H.A.M.B. (traditional Hot Rod board) from time to time. I haven't been able to get on for at least a day. I generally check by logging into the "Ford Barn", but they seem to be down as well. Anybody else having a problem, or is it just me?