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Tubman

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  • Content count

    11
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About Tubman

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Minnesota
  • Interests
    Hot Rods and old cars, anything old and mechanical
  • My Project Cars
    "T" tub with a 331 Hemi, Vintage dirt modified with a modified 331.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Been an early Hemi guy for a long time. Currently running two of them.
  • Occupation
    Retired

Converted

  • Location
    Breezy Point, MN
  • Interests
    Old cars
  1. The problem here is that none of this stuff ever gets any cheaper. I am building an Olds Rocket for another project. To use one, you need a special lower housing that moves the starter from the left side of the engine to the right. Over the last couple of years, I passed on two that were "too expensive" and I'm still kicking myself. Unless the price is way out of line, I would suggest you grab something if you want it. The nice thing about eBay is that you can search the actual "Sold" listings and determine what a reasonable price is.
  2. Home Made Intake and Exhaust

    It looks like the SBC headers were a close fit. I'll bet it saved a lot of time and expense. And finally, a good use for old SBC parts!
  3. any thing that can go wrong will

    Do you have a multi meter? Set it to the proper "ohms" scale and first test the primary circuit (between the two smaller terminals). It should be in the range of 3 to 8 ohms. Then use it to check the secondary circuit (coil tower terminal to the coil case). That reading should be in the 10,000 to 25,000 ohm range. This is not a definitive test, but a good start. Infinite ohms on either circuit show an open in the coil. No resistance (zero ohms) show a short. If either of these conditions exist, beg, buy ,or steal another known good coil.
  4. 12 volt conversion and the fluid drive

    I would think someone here knows. Have you tried searching for "Gyro-matic" or "Gyro Matic"? The title of your thread is a little misleading when it references "Fluid Drive". If you don't get any response here, you might try the H.A.M.B. There was a discussion about these transmissions going on over there a couple of days ago.
  5. 12 volt conversion and the fluid drive

    If you have an actual Fluid Drive (like "paulbone" above), I don't think you have to do anything. However, if you have the semi-automatic transmission that was called "Gyro-Matic", there is some work to be done. Unfortunately, I don't know what it is. Your car should have one of those two names on it that should tell you what you have.
  6. Is the H.A.M.B. down?

    I know some of you guys must visit the H.A.M.B. (traditional Hot Rod board) from time to time. I haven't been able to get on for at least a day. I generally check by logging into the "Ford Barn", but they seem to be down as well. Anybody else having a problem, or is it just me?
  7. New Tachometer

    Wiring these new tachs is super easy. They all seem to have gone to 4 wire color-coded scheme as follows : Red - Tach Power, White - Light Power, Green - Tach Signal, Black - Ground. The red wire should be hooked up to a switched vehicle power source (ignition). The second (white) power lead should be hooked into the dash lights so the tachometer light is only on while the lights are on. The black wire goes to any good ground. The green wire goes to the same side of the coil as the wire to the distributor. With most HEI setups, this is pretty obvious, but I've never seen instructions for one of these tachs that didn't explicitly indicate where it hooks up for most popular units Hooking up the light to it's own switched power can be kind of a pain at times, so most guys just tie the two power leads together, so the lights on whenever the ignition is on. It works fine that way.
  8. New Tachometer

    "Thomba48" - I have two conversion boxes left from my latest batch. You can contact me at "dennyodoms@gmail.com" To all you others that want to run the "Classic Tachometers (Sun, Stewart Warner, etc) that need controller boxes that are missing or in- operable, I have just finished an updated unit that will run these older "meter type" tachs on 6 volts, positive ground as well. This has been done before (as noted above), but for "$$$$$". My unit is projected to sell for less than $200. The price of the regular driver for "motor" tachs is still $120. Here is a link to a video of it running an a Merc flathead on my engine stand :
  9. Got myself a 1947 Dodge D24

    Early '50's Buicks had side opening hoods; they opened from either side and could be removed completely to work on the engine (you needed a friend or two to accomplish that, though).
  10. Got myself a 1947 Dodge D24

    A friend of mine found one of those as nice (or maybe even a little nicer) than yours. As soon as he got it, he chopped it and put a 318 in it. The chop was so bad he had to panel paint it to obscure the shoddy bodywork. A little more misguided customizing and he ended up with what we all called "The Road Toad". He is no longer a friend. "knuckleharley", I thought my dad was the only one who pulled **** like that. I found out later that he had been a mechanic early in life and was going to make sure I didn't "end up" like that. If he only knew what he actually did.
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