Jolly
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Everything posted by Jolly
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Sounds like clutch is stuck to the flywheel. Happen to me awhile back.
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Thanks I believe it is Tennessee Clutch.
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A few years ago I think I got the name and number of a gentleman that rebuilds clutch plates and discs on this site. Tied to search but couldn’t find it. You shop him your parts and he returns them back refurbished. Does anybody know of this guy or someone else? TIA
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Weld in ifs, and weld in 4 link rear suspension
Jolly replied to Dingo's 48's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Surprised there aren’t any replies yet. I want the same set up on a 40 Chrysler I’m turning into a retro-rod. You are probably going to hear you should stay with the suspension God gave it. As it is a pretty good setup From back in the day. I’m probably just going to do a disc brake conversion for the front and would love a four-link in rear. -
New Member: Just bought a 1936 Plymouth 2 Door Sedan
Jolly replied to Tierod's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Beautiful car!! I’m slowly learning how my 40 Chrysler ticks....enjoy -
Possibly the horn relay. Mine is still disconnected because of that, haven’t diagnosed the issue yet.
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I thought I’ve read that adjusting timing is best by using a vacuum gauge. Need to use the port on the intake manifold. That worked for me on my ‘40 rebuild.
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I just installed the hub/nut on my crank by heating the nut in oven at 450 degrees. Went on real easy with very light taps with hammer and wood. Machine shop trick.
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I will find out. Unfortunately, I have to open it up. Before I do I will stop by his shop, show him the part and ask if he remembers that he didn’t have it.
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You guys are great!!!!! Thanks
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I need help indentifying this 2” long copper oiling tube. Apparently I didn’t give this to the machine shop when they assembled my rebuilt 1940 Chrysler 241flathead six. I’m thinking it might belong behind timing chain cover. I guess this is what can happen when 5+ months pass after you disassemble an engine. Thanks
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Oops, had to redo. Had the rod on wrong side of pedal. I love doing stuff twice.......not! oh well, it’s right now.
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Sacrificed a few dimes and used a baling wire turnbuckle to install the clutch pedal spring on steroids. Was successful, but it was work. That’s one strong spring...... This is on my 40 Windsor.
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Bingo!!! New plugs on start up
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It’s now sitting in car. Won’t be long now
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Welcome back and hoping your health improves so you can play with your toys and stuff..
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Just liking the cool factor, not even thinking value of the car. Plus my friend enjoyed the day I took her tooling around on her 101st Birthday last July. The rear door and grab handle worked well for her to access the rear seat. Btw, I would also like a nice coupe
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Unless the back doors are suicide doors......
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Thanks, he did use some parts. Looked at the box of old parts today and he even returned the old freeze plugs.
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I would call that a deal indeed. I was hoping for under 3k.
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One if the things I noticed when first driving my 40 Chrysler with skinny bias tires the the squealing sound going around corners. Reminds me of the soundtracks of all those chase scenes in old movie with the screeching tires. BTW, radials are on my wish list.......
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Which T5 needs no adaptor? I might go that route while reinstalling my engine.
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Ain’t that the truth. It would have bought you a nice brand new muscle car in the sixties.
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His quote was 3,500 to 4,000, it ended up right in the middle. I really want to be able to drive with confidence 175 miles to the beach a few times a year. So I’m happy to bite the bullet to help have that piece of mind.
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The cost was hard to swallow, but the guy does a lot of classic cars in the area. And the other shop in town wasn’t interested in old iron. Looking at the big picture, I got the car at a great price because of the rod knock. So I’m not underwater with the total invested in this toy. Hopefully all I have to do once it’s back together is drive it and keep it clean.
