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keithb7

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Everything posted by keithb7

  1. “It ran the last time it was parked.” And other open ended statements. Lol. It’s all good. I never paid for a runner. It won’t bar over. That complicates the bell housing removal. I can’t access all the clutch cover bolts or flywheel bolts. I’ll try and lube up the cylinders for a while. I read some good tricks here I’ll try. What about removing the timing chain? If the cam and valves are badly corroded, that takes them out of the revolving mass. If the piston rings break free will it be easier to bar over minus the valvetrain? I suspect so. The cylinder bore measured up to a 218 that’s been bored over .020 Stroke? Well that could be a while.
  2. Sorry about reviving an old thread. When performing an internet google search for Chrysler starter 1604035 this thread is at the top of the list. For future people seeking info I will add that this starter was on a 1949 Dodge Deluxe D32 218 25” long engine that I purchased. That doesn’t 100% mean that starter was OEM on that engine. On the Chrysler tag on the starter it also reads Auto Lite Inc number MCH6305. Looking at my 1957 Motors manual is claims that MCH6305 starter was in 1954-1955 Dodge and Plymouth 6 cylinder cars.
  3. The old Mopars share many parts and design systems across many years. For example my own 1938 engine and brakes are close to the same as my 1953 engine and brakes. If you have a 1950, I suggest you watch anything dated before then, and even dated after, that pertains to the topic you want to study. If you have a certain repair job that you hope to complete some day, find the training about it. You may find a presentation from 1945, then another in 1953 that covers your topic. I suggest you watch them both. It really helps when you have the piece from your car that you can reference, or take apart, when studying. Sort of a learning aid. The lights come on and everything comes together nicely. You retain it, you get it. For example someone gave me a Mopar 1953 NY'r M6 semi-auto tranny that was DOA. I watch some videos and took the tranny apart. Boy I learned a lot about how it works, is assembled and how to troubleshoot various systems and symptoms. Pick one topic and watch the videos. Don't attempt to watch too many in a short period of time. That's my advice.
  4. @DJ194950 No it has a dry clutch.
  5. As per my engine SN, I think a D32 is a 1949 Canadian built Dodge? Anyone able to confirm. Someone here has one most likely. What ci engine? 218? Thx. Edited to say, by chance I looked and found that I have a 1949 Canadian Chrysler shop manual in my library. The D32 is the Canadian built 1949 Dodge Deluxe. 218 ci engine. 3 ⅜ bore x 4 1/16 stroke.
  6. They are many guys here who are bad influences! I am on my way to becoming a parts hoarder. Today I secured: A D32 C 1818C SN engine. I think it came out of a truck. Canadian 25” long block.with clutch assy, flywheel and housing on it. Carb. Manifolds. Distributor. Starter. Etc. It was running when pulled. Stored indoors. Bars over. Think its maybe a 251? We’ll see. A 3 speed manual tranny with park brake assy on rear. Part number 138238-1 DPCD cast in it. Some other giblets too. A 10” brake drum. Another flywheel and bottom tin cover. Clutch linkage etc. Most excited about the oil bath air cleaner that I also took home. It fits my ‘38 Ply very nicely. The ‘38 came with a modern type paper air filter. It just looked wrong on there. My garage is getting fatter. My wallet thinner. So much fun though. Got a great deal for all from a solid local fellow Mopar enthusiast. A good club of folks to be a part of.
  7. Running the engine up to operating temperature is important. The valves operate at different temperatures. Iron expands as it heats up. Clearances change and vary from a valve toward the front of the engine compared to the rear. What I did was jack up the front wheel. Remove the inner fender window. Reinstall tire. Leave jack and tools in the driveway at ready. Go for a good drive to warm everything up. Pull in the driveway and jack up RF tire again and remove. Then you’re quickly ready to set hot valves. I turned off my engine. Set all the valves. Then I started the engine up and checked clearances while running. I could hear and feel the difference with a feeler guage, if the valve needed further adjustment. Then I shut the engine off, adjusted the valves again that needed it. Then double checked them all one more time with it running. When I was satisfied, I re-installed the inner Fender window and tire. Been enjoying the car ever since. The results turned out great.
  8. Looks like a great trip. You'll all be well fed all winter!
  9. I measured the crank main and rod surfaces today. Cylinder bore too. Got my micrometers out and a snap-T gage. Unless I’m screwing this up it appears all stock. I’m getting numbers 0.0015 under the published new measurements of the rods. With my limited mic work, I’ll margin some error into my numbers. About upto 0.004 larger on the cylinder bore. Cylinder wear? Bang on stock size on all 4 crank mains. It appears this old 1938 201.3 engine may never have been rebuilt.
  10. Up to this point I had underestimated the effort required to get the rusty valve train apart. The valves are very stubborn. Guides and stems rusted together. Valve surfaces frozen to their related seats. What took over 50 years for nature to develop won’t be undone in 30 minutes. I started soaking the parts with penetrating oil. I am not attempting to reuse these valve train parts. I want to get them out, so I can pull the cam and clear out the block. On a positive note, my scissor type spring compressor tool works great! One other thing I learned: When I think about switching an old car over to modern synthetic oil. Pulling the oil pan and valve covers to clean out old sludge is important. However I’ve not heard anyone mention pulling the cam timing gear cover off. What a mess of sludge! There was ALOT of sludge in there. It’s something to consider.
  11. @Dodgeb4ya Your images appears like what I pulled out. Especially the small rubber end cap pieces. Thanks. These early rear seals are pretty simple. I’m not sure this particular type could be changed with the clutch bolted up and in place, in the car. Might be hard to get the upper mouting bolts, that thread into the block, out. No?
  12. Thats a great question @Andydodge. I am not 100% sure if the engine originally matched the car. Known car history tells me it should be original to the car. Maybe someone has a way to vertify? Block stamped SN reads: P6*103633* Block castings read: A 11.3.37 632929-13 Other side of block casting, above oil pump reads P 13. 1938 P6 Car body SN is 9351866
  13. Hi folks. I am looking for assistance with the rear seal assembly on my 1938 201 engine. First time for me getting in there. I looked at shop manual 2D drawings. I think I grasp it, but it almost seems too simple. Am I missing something here? Thanks for your guidance. https://youtu.be/cIzZAhkxJIU
  14. Pretty sure it’s not a 100M socket. I was trying break free on old rusty engine today. My ‘38 Plymouth engine needed a 1 ⅞” socket. The 12V battery idea sounds convenient. However you get no feel. If something is hanging up you risk tearing things up. At least with a breaker bar you get some feedback. Fyi my engine today had all connecting rods removed. All pistons removed. 3 main crank caps removed. Timing chain removed. With just one main crank cap in place, it still would not bar over. I eventually took the final main cap off. Bearings were rusted to the crank. Its amazing how strong the rust is. Hopefully yours is in better shape.
  15. I will reach to them for you and get back to you.
  16. Facebook group has a deal that I saw today:
  17. Time for a reading break...The original 1938 shop manual assumes the reader has considerable experience in these engines. I suppose the manuals were written for dealer mechanics. If you didn’t already have considerable experience, well you probably shouldn’t be employed at a CPDD dealer. I’ve started collecting books across 25 years of CPDD cars. I find the books seem to have different images and different levels of instruction on the same topic. Engine won’t bar over yet. Front cover, seal retainer and front main cap are all that’s left holding the crank. She’s stubborn.
  18. I got lined up with an engine hoist today so I placed the original 1938 201 engine on a stand. I want to dig into the bottom end. A learning exercise for me at a minimum. I’m not sure I want to rebuild it. The 1954 228 engine in the car now runs great, and makes more power than this 201. So I have decided to dig in to the original engine. Clean it up. Inspect and measure everything and make an assessment. Cylinder bore, crank bearing surfaces, etc to be measured to gain knowledge and experience at this point. This 201 engine has been sitting since the mid-60’s. Everything has been in the crankcase except oil it seems. I am quite interested in getting into the front and rear main seals. I need to install a new rear seal on my running ‘53 Chrysler. Having never done one before, this 201 engine will give me a great practice run. Crankshaft to come out next. Cam. Front timing gears, etc. I am pretty jacked up about this little side project. Should I start a new thread on my findings and then others can learn from it and follow along? Keith
  19. True! Brass at least, will give a little. But yes, nothing belongs in there except an aif fuel mixture! Clean shop rags in the cylinders offers a better chance yet again, of protecting things. @Jchaidez. If you are new to flatheads you might get something out of my latest You Tube Mopar featured video. See here: https://youtu.be/RQNszFmHJHQ
  20. This thread has some serious holding power. Probably lasted longer than some marriages. It keeps re-appearing. I do enjoy it. The age chart tells the a real story. All about what is going on with the vintage car market. Sad but true. Which is also why this forum is among my top internet sites. Classy, respectful, knowledgeable, helpful, mature, folks are all here. Giving out great free advice. Thank you! Much appreciated. I’ll be paying it forward too.
  21. So much info getting thrown at you here sorry... Resist the temptation to clean up the block deck with a wire wheel. Or a wire brush. The tiny wires come off. They are prone to drop down horizontally between the piston and the cylinder wall. They can get wedged in place, maybe adjacent to a piston ring. Then the destruction begins the very next time you move that piston. Then expect a dead cylinder with no compression in short time. Seek out a brass wire wheel or brush. They have soft bristles. Put shop cloths in each cylinder when cleaning up and de-carboning the area. Get a shop vac and suck up everything really well out of every cylinder. While the head is off be very diligent about keeping the area clean deck and covered up if possible. Good luck. Report back. Thx.
  22. Search facebook marketplace too. Search "flathead".
  23. I’ve seen worse...When I took the head off my running flathead Mopar engine. Have you looked around much on local on-line classifieds for a used flathead mopar engine? I started paying attention and I am soon to be stumbling over 2 spare engines here in my garage. Plus I skipped on one opportunity to buy one. They can be had for cheap. I’d pull the rad and get it out of the way. Breaker bar, maybe if you’re lucky. If no go, maybe pull the oil pan and some rod and main caps to investigate the bottom end. It’s all a great learning exercise. Pull one at a time, look for rust. Wipe ‘em clean and get some white 105 engine assembly grease. Put the bearings and caps back on greased up. Maybe just hand tight the fasteners temporarily. Try hand turning the crank again. No go? Go back up top and soak the cylinders in lube. Try barring it over again. And again. And again. Tap, tap, tap, try again. You might be better off spending tour time looking for a deal on an engine hoist and an engine stand. Yank the engine and do work on a stand. If you find the engine is still in bad shape, consider a used running engine. Or rebuild. Again, an awesome learning opportunity.
  24. Yup. Pull axles. Drive shaft then the diff. I should have when I put in new axle bearings. I’ll be back in there soon enough.
  25. I may not be right. But...I'll try. It is my understanding that the bearing cone, that is pressed on the axle shaft, moves outward, as one with the axle shaft, when you tug on the axle. The amount of free play is set by how far in your drive, or press, the cup in place. The cup should not be pressed in all the way flush with the end of the axle housing. You leave some free play, then when you choose the right thickness of shims, and re-install the brake backing plate, and torque the mounting bolts in place, the backing plate pushes the cup in toward the cone. This distance the cup travels, is determined by the thickness of shims, stopping the backing plate from pushing the cup in deeper toward the cone. This free play between the cone and cup is what is desired. I think that when you tug the axle out, this is what you are measuring. The free play between the cone and cup. Am I understanding this right? Open to corrections and clarity. Thx. Keith
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