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keithb7

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keithb7 last won the day on August 9

keithb7 had the most liked content!

About keithb7

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage cars, guitars and amps.
  • My Project Cars
    1938 Plymouth P6 Deluxe Sedan. 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe C60-2.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Hobby Mechanic
  • Occupation
    Mining

Converted

  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage Cars

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  1. As per my engine SN, I think a D32 is a 1949 Canadian built Dodge? Anyone able to confirm. Someone here has one most likely. What ci engine? 218? Thx. Edited to say, by chance I looked and found that I have a 1949 Canadian Chrysler shop manual in my library. The D32 is the Canadian built 1949 Dodge Deluxe. 218 ci engine. 3 ⅜ bore x 4 1/16 stroke.
  2. They are many guys here who are bad influences! I am on my way to becoming a parts hoarder. Today I secured: A D32 C 1818C SN engine. I think it came out of a truck. Canadian 25” long block.with clutch assy, flywheel and housing on it. Carb. Manifolds. Distributor. Starter. Etc. It was running when pulled. Stored indoors. Bars over. Think its maybe a 251? We’ll see. A 3 speed manual tranny with park brake assy on rear. Part number 138238-1 DPCD cast in it. Some other giblets too. A 10” brake drum. Another flywheel and bottom tin cover. Clutch linkage etc. Most excited about the oil bath air cleaner that I also took home. It fits my ‘38 Ply very nicely. The ‘38 came with a modern type paper air filter. It just looked wrong on there. My garage is getting fatter. My wallet thinner. So much fun though. Got a great deal for all from a solid local fellow Mopar enthusiast. A good club of folks to be a part of.
  3. Running the engine up to operating temperature is important. The valves operate at different temperatures. Iron expands as it heats up. Clearances change and vary from a valve toward the front of the engine compared to the rear. What I did was jack up the front wheel. Remove the inner fender window. Reinstall tire. Leave jack and tools in the driveway at ready. Go for a good drive to warm everything up. Pull in the driveway and jack up RF tire again and remove. Then you’re quickly ready to set hot valves. I turned off my engine. Set all the valves. Then I started the engine up and checked clearances while running. I could hear and feel the difference with a feeler guage, if the valve needed further adjustment. Then I shut the engine off, adjusted the valves again that needed it. Then double checked them all one more time with it running. When I was satisfied, I re-installed the inner Fender window and tire. Been enjoying the car ever since. The results turned out great.
  4. Looks like a great trip. You'll all be well fed all winter!
  5. I measured the crank main and rod surfaces today. Cylinder bore too. Got my micrometers out and a snap-T gage. Unless I’m screwing this up it appears all stock. I’m getting numbers 0.0015 under the published new measurements of the rods. With my limited mic work, I’ll margin some error into my numbers. About upto 0.004 larger on the cylinder bore. Cylinder wear? Bang on stock size on all 4 crank mains. It appears this old 1938 201.3 engine may never have been rebuilt.
  6. Up to this point I had underestimated the effort required to get the rusty valve train apart. The valves are very stubborn. Guides and stems rusted together. Valve surfaces frozen to their related seats. What took over 50 years for nature to develop won’t be undone in 30 minutes. I started soaking the parts with penetrating oil. I am not attempting to reuse these valve train parts. I want to get them out, so I can pull the cam and clear out the block. On a positive note, my scissor type spring compressor tool works great! One other thing I learned: When I think about switching an old car over to modern synthetic oil. Pulling the oil pan and valve covers to clean out old sludge is important. However I’ve not heard anyone mention pulling the cam timing gear cover off. What a mess of sludge! There was ALOT of sludge in there. It’s something to consider.
  7. @Dodgeb4ya Your images appears like what I pulled out. Especially the small rubber end cap pieces. Thanks. These early rear seals are pretty simple. I’m not sure this particular type could be changed with the clutch bolted up and in place, in the car. Might be hard to get the upper mouting bolts, that thread into the block, out. No?
  8. Thats a great question @Andydodge. I am not 100% sure if the engine originally matched the car. Known car history tells me it should be original to the car. Maybe someone has a way to vertify? Block stamped SN reads: P6*103633* Block castings read: A 11.3.37 632929-13 Other side of block casting, above oil pump reads P 13. 1938 P6 Car body SN is 9351866
  9. Hi folks. I am looking for assistance with the rear seal assembly on my 1938 201 engine. First time for me getting in there. I looked at shop manual 2D drawings. I think I grasp it, but it almost seems too simple. Am I missing something here? Thanks for your guidance. https://youtu.be/cIzZAhkxJIU
  10. Pretty sure it’s not a 100M socket. I was trying break free on old rusty engine today. My ‘38 Plymouth engine needed a 1 ⅞” socket. The 12V battery idea sounds convenient. However you get no feel. If something is hanging up you risk tearing things up. At least with a breaker bar you get some feedback. Fyi my engine today had all connecting rods removed. All pistons removed. 3 main crank caps removed. Timing chain removed. With just one main crank cap in place, it still would not bar over. I eventually took the final main cap off. Bearings were rusted to the crank. Its amazing how strong the rust is. Hopefully yours is in better shape.
  11. I will reach to them for you and get back to you.
  12. Facebook group has a deal that I saw today:
  13. Time for a reading break...The original 1938 shop manual assumes the reader has considerable experience in these engines. I suppose the manuals were written for dealer mechanics. If you didn’t already have considerable experience, well you probably shouldn’t be employed at a CPDD dealer. I’ve started collecting books across 25 years of CPDD cars. I find the books seem to have different images and different levels of instruction on the same topic. Engine won’t bar over yet. Front cover, seal retainer and front main cap are all that’s left holding the crank. She’s stubborn.
  14. I got lined up with an engine hoist today so I placed the original 1938 201 engine on a stand. I want to dig into the bottom end. A learning exercise for me at a minimum. I’m not sure I want to rebuild it. The 1954 228 engine in the car now runs great, and makes more power than this 201. So I have decided to dig in to the original engine. Clean it up. Inspect and measure everything and make an assessment. Cylinder bore, crank bearing surfaces, etc to be measured to gain knowledge and experience at this point. This 201 engine has been sitting since the mid-60’s. Everything has been in the crankcase except oil it seems. I am quite interested in getting into the front and rear main seals. I need to install a new rear seal on my running ‘53 Chrysler. Having never done one before, this 201 engine will give me a great practice run. Crankshaft to come out next. Cam. Front timing gears, etc. I am pretty jacked up about this little side project. Should I start a new thread on my findings and then others can learn from it and follow along? Keith
  15. True! Brass at least, will give a little. But yes, nothing belongs in there except an aif fuel mixture! Clean shop rags in the cylinders offers a better chance yet again, of protecting things. @Jchaidez. If you are new to flatheads you might get something out of my latest You Tube Mopar featured video. See here: https://youtu.be/RQNszFmHJHQ
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