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keithb7

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keithb7 last won the day on July 1

keithb7 had the most liked content!

About keithb7

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage cars, guitars and amps.
  • My Project Cars
    1938 Plymouth P6 Deluxe Sedan. 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe C60-2.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Hobby Mechanic
  • Occupation
    Mining

Converted

  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage Cars

Recent Profile Visitors

1,849 profile views
  1. I am also glad to see another '38 Plymouth. I am amazed at the amount of work, expense, dedication and skills displaced when stripping a car down to the frame for a full restoration. The hours invested is humbling. I am picking away slowly at my '38, thinking ahead, wondering how far I'll get into it. Welcome to the club here. We're happy to have another Mopar enthusiast,
  2. If you remove the access cover with the shift linkage you'll see the model number stamped in the housing. It will show what car the tranny was originally installed in. Here in this example you see it was for a C56. A New Yorker. 11 17 52, maybe Nov 17 1952 production? Makes sense for a '53 NY'r.
  3. The groove in your pushrod shaft is for the dust boot. There certainly is no lack if confusion around how these parts go together.I understand your guys' thoughts. I too was scratching my head... When I took my first ever old Mopar master cylinder apart it was screwed up and assembled wrong too. By the previous grease monkey in there. See this pic below. Look when my valve seal is. On the push rod beside the cylinder stop. LOL. Then on top of that you get old photos that don't show the valve seal. Guys get to guessing where to put the extra parts found in the reseal kit.
  4. This next pic is missing the valve seal, which is shown above in my other pic. However this pic does a good job showing placement of the rest of all the parts:
  5. Tell us a little more. How long have you owned the car? Did it drive fine, hot or cold, for some time? Then recently start acting up? Improperly set valve lash may allow the engine to start when cold and run quiet. Upon heating up the valves, they expand. If clearance too tight, they’ll stay open enough that the engine may miss, backfire and will not start again until cooled off. Just an idea. Not saying that’s the answer. A cold & hot compression test may reveal a few things.
  6. Compression test. That should let you know where to look for clues going forward.
  7. My ½” drive 24” long breaker bar knows that axle nut intimately.
  8. It is a headlight relay. To improve the headlights to get brighter and to lessen the amount the electrical voltage has to travel to get to the headlight bulbs.  So when the relay was not used the current ran from the headlight swith to the foot dimmer swith and then out to the junction box on the front fender and then to each individual headlight.  So instead of having the electricity  having to go throught this entire wiring situation the headlight relay was added and the power came directly from the battery to power the relay and then the electricity then went out to the headlights.  If you still have 6v power then keep the headlight relay and since it was converted to sealed beam this will also give you a brighter light. I did this to my 1939 Desoto to get brighter lights.

     

    Rich Hartung

    Desoto1939@aol.com

    cell 484-431-8157

  9. I think if you upload 1 pic per post, then post it. Then start another reply and post again, you can upload more pics. Left side of engine and firewall and fender wiring would be great! Thanks.
  10. Thanks folks. Typically maybe this is a horn relay. It's wired up though as a connection for head lights, not as a relay. Nor used on the horn. Thanks @38plymouth for posting a pic. Mine is not set up the same. Could be because it was built in Canada. Or someone changed things up. I would love to see more photos of your engine bay if you have them. I would like to know how things looked when new. Your low milage car would be good guide for me. Thanks, Keith.
  11. Thanks dpollo. At this point I assume it serves no purpose except join wires together, and hold them close to the fender. I could eliminate it by joining wires directly together. Correct?
  12. Forgot to mention. I have the original manual. This box I am referencing is not shown in the wiring diagram. Thx.
  13. Getting into wiring clean up in my ‘38 Plymouth. I decided to pull the original headlight harness. Needless to say it’s in horrendous condition. Crumbling away upon touching it. Lots of bare exposed wire. I’ll build a new harness from scratch. Wires from the headlight harness went to this 3 terminal box on the left fender well inside engine compartment. 2 wires go to this box. Appear to come from cab area possibly. I’ll dig in further with a multi-meter. I suspect the two wires come from the hi/low beam foot switch. The two wires connect to the outer pair of terminals on this box. Then the two head light harness wires connect to the same outer two terminals. The centre terminal on this box was unused. I’m wondering what the purpose this box is. Its not a relay as far as I can tell. Its not wired up as such. All it seems to be doing is offering a mechanical connection of the wires. Is it a type fusebox maybe? It’s plenty old for my eyes. I can’t recall seeing one before. Mind you I have not owned a car built before ‘92 since ‘92. I suspect an earlier owner custom repair. Someone changed out the headlights to sealed beam 6V type. The little auxiliary bulbs in the orignal headlights are gone. The wire is still there in the harness. Thanks.
  14. So far brake shoes appear to be near new. I’ll be definitely digging in further. I see old crusty flex hoses. They’ll be replaced. I exposed the carb bowl today. Quite dirty. To be expected for a car that has seen so little use in decades. After some extensive internet research time, I learned this is a Carter BBS carburetor. Used from about 54 and up thru the 60's. This carb seems to align properly, age-wise with D54 engine SN on my block. I was able to locate a rebuild kit on the Carb Doctor web site. Carb is currently disassembled and soaking in Lacquer thinner. Every time I walk by I agitate it a little.
  15. Flat black seems popular with the vintage hotrod guys around here. They add red & white custom pin striping it seems. I can understand how a home hobby hack type of guy, trying to stay in a budget, would consider flat black. Might be able to get away with a home paint job if he has no desire to show the car. Just get out and cruise. I may or may not fall into that catagory. 😉
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