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keithb7 last won the day on October 29

keithb7 had the most liked content!

About keithb7

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage cars, guitars and amps.
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Hobby Mechanic
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage Cars

Recent Profile Visitors

446 profile views
  1. Thanks folks. All I am changing is the oil pan. I'll get under there and have a better look at what this front support is.
  2. Can anyone explain to me what this is all about? It came in the box with my Fel-Pro oil pan gasket set.
  3. I got mine here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,1948 My pan came off pretty easy. I used gasket remover spray and a scraper on the block . Worked well. Most of the gasket came off in large pieces. I am putting my pan back on soon. Just letting paint cure here.
  4. New Member: 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe

    Digging around in my '53 tonight I found a piece of paper under the rear bench seat. It is a Vehicle Registration for state of Massachusetts. Dated 1969. A 1953 Chrysler Sedan. Owner was Bert H. Webster of Bulkeley Road, Littleton Mass.01460. Registration fee was $6. I googled Bert to find his obituary, date 2009. He was born in 1929 and seems he lived most of his life in Littleton. He served 4 years in the Airforce during the Korean conflict. After his service, he worked as a truck driver his whole life. Pretty cool to find this...
  5. Prime and paint tonight!
  6. Me and the Meadowbrook

    I was out cruising some backroads recently not too far from home. I found this house number holder. It made me think of you Worden18. 3303 of Shuswap Road. Not a Meadowbrook, but has similar lines. This is the Plymouth Cranbrook. I am unsure of the year. Maybe someone can tell us what year it is.
  7. My understanding is once the oil pan sump has been cleaned out, and the filter housing, ect, of sludge, we can then run detergent based modern conventional oils. I have a question about the oil pick up screen cover. I pried it off, cleaned it out and re-installed the cover. There seems to be a ramp or angle in the cover, on one part only. Does this ramp have to point in a certain direction? Ramp to rear? Or does it not matter? Thanks.
  8. So you want to dabble in the old car scene hey? Welcome to your first classic car. LOL. I already swept away one pile of this 50 year old road grime, dust, oil and grease. That was just the stuff I pried off to find nuts on the tie rod ends and steering banana link. This last effort was just the crud up around the torque converter housing and rear area of the oil pan. From the bottom side, you can't tell there's an oil pump down there. So much scum built up. This oil pan of mine has been leaking for years and years I estimate. Add in the crankcase down draft tube, it all piles up and sticks in every possible place down there. It's going to look so nice when I'm done. Good times, chipping away hard tar.
  9. #1 bearing looks pretty decent. The bearings read: Clevite 3 77 CB 90P. Any idea what that means? A little bit of some something tiny went around there once. The bearing did it's job well. Back side:
  10. My pan had maybe a 1/4" of sludge only in the lowest part of the pan. Going forward I'm thinking I'll run modern Rotella 10W30 with the 1200 PPM Zinc. Have any of you folks ever pulled your oil pump apart to get a good look at wear? Was thinking about that today too. Lots of thoughts. Also go to thinking about those little pieces of tin I found in the screen. It could have come from a torque part as well. The engine oil goes through the torque and back. Oil goes into the oil crank passages at the middle main bearing it seems. It was suggested if I wanted to have a look at a few rod bearings, go with 1 and 6. Furthest away from the oil pump. If anything is going on with oil pressure, wear will start there most likely. That makes sense.
  11. Pan cleaned up well today in the huge dishwasher (aka parts washer) at work. I'd like to remove the remaining external rust then paint the outside. What do you recommend for rust removal? Fine sandpaper? Steel wool? Scotch-brite? I have access to a glass bead machine, but would rather not. Those glass beads, you just can't get them all out. They find themselves in every little nook & cranny. They kill internal engine parts fast, when they later become dislodged.
  12. Here are a couple of money-shots for those who'd like to have a peek. It's been a lot of years since I have been into the bottom end a car engine. Considering its 1940's design and limitations, I am thinking it looks pretty clean. I was expecting a lot worse.
  13. Tool in this pic worked well. The pan came out easily with 1 tie rod off and then turn the steering far right to the stops. Inside of my engine looks a lot better than I expected. Camshaft looks great. Someone changed the oil often. A little sludge in the bottom of the pan. Not bad. The cork in the u-section of the pan, front and rear was rock hard. Once I get this all cleaned up and resealed I think a good bit of the oil drips will stop. I pulled the pickup screen and popped off the cover. I found a few very small pieces of that I think is tin. Bearing lead-tin overlay maybe? Not much 2 or three small pieces that I could easily stab and split with a small jeweler's screw driver. This could be from an earlier engine rebuild? Who knows. I can't say for sure. Engine oil pressure is great. Now I am wondering if I should consider a full bearing roll-in.
  14. I just picked up a new tie rod separator. Off to go try it shortly. Tapping on the oil pan it sounds like there might be something loose in bottom. Yikes. We'll see what treasures lay in the sludge. More to come soon.
  15. My ball joint splitter, scissor type won't work. It's in there tight. Punched with a good hammer many times around the seat and on the nut on the end. Will try a locate a different type of puller tomorrow. I have a fork too, but they tend to tear up the boot, I want to re-use the joint so I'll defer from using a fork.