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Vet Doc

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  • Content Count

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Vet Doc

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Castleford, Idaho
  • Interests
    Family, outdoors, hunting, fishing, and shop work.
  • My Project Cars
    1948 B1B

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Grew up a farm boy, now a rural veterinarian in the same small community.
  • Occupation
    Cow Veterinarian

Converted

  • Location
    Idaho
  • Interests
    Family, outdoors

Recent Profile Visitors

470 profile views
  1. Thanks for the information, that’s exactly the advice I was looking for. It is still the old school push button on the starter and positive ground, so your explanations make perfect sense. Given the fact that the vacuum advance diaphragm is no good, I am planning to plug the vacuum port, assuming that won’t make a difference. Also, my experience with other 6 volt systems and a current post regarding starters, I will probably use a 12 volt battery to power the outfit. The generator needs rebuilt but is acting as the belt tensioner, so I don’t plan on hooking in the battery. Todd
  2. I am working towards the same first start and nearing the point of placing the basic electrical connections. That said, I am looking for insight and instruction on connections. I have the block sitting in the frame without any body installed.
  3. Charlie-No, I haven’t seen one but will watch out for one. Thanks for all of the information...I suspected there would be great input and am not disappointed. If you’re bored, the listings for those pickups and a myriad of other vehicles is at https://www.usauctionid.com/auction/DaveTeeterRestorableVehicleAuction. That said, I hope y’all don’t show up and bid against me! TW
  4. Dodge Pickup - Dodge Pickup - 2 dr These pickups are going to be on an auction about an hour away. I am looking for body parts for a 48 B1B and they look better in the pictures than my current project. I will try to go to the auction and check the pillar tags, but just wondering what the models might be based on pictures. I know some of the rest of you can identify these much enter than myself, so I’m throwing out to the forum. I think the first one is 48-49 and the second one maybe 50-52, but that is as far as I would guess. What do you think?
  5. Sounds like a good idea to me. That would leave a collar to hold the screwdriver blade in place better also. Thanks.
  6. I have seen several posts and recommendations regarding using a ‘spare’ oil pump to fill the galleys and cycle oil through the engine with a flat blade on a drill prior to first start. I have a donor pump and removed the pin from the shaft just below the drive gear, but have not been able to remove the gear from the shaft. I didn’t want to be too aggressive with a press and haven’t disassembled the pump from the other end (cover plate and internal pump components). What have I missed?
  7. Here is the new tank with a single wire sender from Vic’s.
  8. I concur completely. While having been a member for some time, i didn’t post much because of reactions I have seen in other forums. After a couple of positive experiences and input, I couldn’t be more pleased with the support, information, and communication with members here. It’s a great help whether in searches of previous post or responses to current posts. Thanks to all. Todd
  9. I agree with your assessment. I expect to get the tank done for $500-600. I told my wife we weren’t doing this to save money...it’s the pickup that her mother learned to drive with when she was a kid. So far, that line of reasoning has gotten me a couple of upgrades.
  10. I looked at and seriously considered the older style tank from Tanks Inc, but after reading some previous posts regarding modifying the hole in the cab floor and/or the neck of the fuel spout, as well as the rear bracket modification, I continued to look at other options. I also like stainless tanks. About the same time, talking to a friend who has a fabrication shop, he asked me to drop the tank by so he could take some measurements and get me a price. He agreed to do it for a reasonable price (in stainless) and was local, so if I do have modifications, it will be easier. I will post when finished.
  11. This is how it came out from under the pickup.
  12. Thanks for the measurement; that is great information. Could you also get the measurement from the outside tank edge to the center of the spout?
  13. 48Dodger, That would be greatly appreciated and help a lot. The shop has measurements for the overall dimensions of the tank and a plan for building the tank. We will place the holes after assembly. Thanks, Todd
  14. I have looked through past posts about fuel tank replacement options and have opted to have a local shop get me a quote for fabricating one for me. I have the old tank for overall dimensions, but unfortunately the entire top is rusted out and gone. I also have the body off of the frame for taking any reference measurements from the fill hole on the cab. Therefore, I don’t have any measurements for the location of the filler neck and sender unit. Looking at pictures of replacements from DCM and Tanks Inc., the filler neck is in the center, but I question if that is accurate enough. The sender unit site is probably not as critical, but any input would be appreciated. I am hoping someone may have a tank off that may be able to provide me some measurements and/or pictures. I have looked at posts about the earlier tank replacements from Tanks Inc and modifications, but I am also wondering if anyone has experience with the stainless tank replacement from DCM. Thanks in advance, Todd
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