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Vet Doc

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  • Content Count

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Vet Doc

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Castleford, Idaho
  • Interests
    Family, outdoors, hunting, fishing, and shop work.
  • My Project Cars
    1948 B1B

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Grew up a farm boy, now a rural veterinarian in the same small community.
  • Occupation
    Cow Veterinarian

Converted

  • Location
    Idaho
  • Interests
    Family, outdoors

Recent Profile Visitors

435 profile views
  1. I concur completely. While having been a member for some time, i didn’t post much because of reactions I have seen in other forums. After a couple of positive experiences and input, I couldn’t be more pleased with the support, information, and communication with members here. It’s a great help whether in searches of previous post or responses to current posts. Thanks to all. Todd
  2. I agree with your assessment. I expect to get the tank done for $500-600. I told my wife we weren’t doing this to save money...it’s the pickup that her mother learned to drive with when she was a kid. So far, that line of reasoning has gotten me a couple of upgrades.
  3. I looked at and seriously considered the older style tank from Tanks Inc, but after reading some previous posts regarding modifying the hole in the cab floor and/or the neck of the fuel spout, as well as the rear bracket modification, I continued to look at other options. I also like stainless tanks. About the same time, talking to a friend who has a fabrication shop, he asked me to drop the tank by so he could take some measurements and get me a price. He agreed to do it for a reasonable price (in stainless) and was local, so if I do have modifications, it will be easier. I will post when finished.
  4. This is how it came out from under the pickup.
  5. Thanks for the measurement; that is great information. Could you also get the measurement from the outside tank edge to the center of the spout?
  6. 48Dodger, That would be greatly appreciated and help a lot. The shop has measurements for the overall dimensions of the tank and a plan for building the tank. We will place the holes after assembly. Thanks, Todd
  7. I have looked through past posts about fuel tank replacement options and have opted to have a local shop get me a quote for fabricating one for me. I have the old tank for overall dimensions, but unfortunately the entire top is rusted out and gone. I also have the body off of the frame for taking any reference measurements from the fill hole on the cab. Therefore, I don’t have any measurements for the location of the filler neck and sender unit. Looking at pictures of replacements from DCM and Tanks Inc., the filler neck is in the center, but I question if that is accurate enough. The sender unit site is probably not as critical, but any input would be appreciated. I am hoping someone may have a tank off that may be able to provide me some measurements and/or pictures. I have looked at posts about the earlier tank replacements from Tanks Inc and modifications, but I am also wondering if anyone has experience with the stainless tank replacement from DCM. Thanks in advance, Todd
  8. Thanks for checking and it’s always good to know I’m not alone. The wedges in mine appear to be aluminum. I have not encountered any other aluminum that I can think of and suspect that they are an aftermarket alignment correction. This pickup has been sitting since 1968 and although it’s been in the family since new, no one knows specific details on service history. 😉
  9. An old thread, but appears to be exactly the subject I have run up against. I have lost my reference as to which direction the wedges were under the springs. I am trying to think it through, but am looking for reassurance. I am thinking to get the caster more to the rear/lean the kingpins back, the thicker part of the wedge should be to the front? Is there any way to do any measurement prior to putting the axle on the frame? The wedges can’t be changed without dropping the whole front beam, I don’t think. Thanks in advance, Todd
  10. While disassembling the second front leaf spring, 3 of the 4 sides of the retainers riveted to the third leaf broke instead of bending. I did not heat them prior to trying to bend them (which worked fine for the other set), but now wish I had. I figure I could try to weld them back on or try to find a new leaf or set of springs. If I find a new stack, I would figure that the new one and the old one I just finished reassembling would need to be re-arced so they would be the same and sit level. I welcome advice and suggestions on how to proceed.
  11. Regarding the oil pickup, I kept that back from the machinist and cleaned it myself as you described. I had seen warnings regarding that part specifically. Fortunately, the machinist is relatively familiar with flatheads as he has one of his own that he inherited from his father. (It is a 52 that was set up s a tow truck.). I will double check all of the oil passages, as well. Thanks to all for the advice on gaskets and applications. I really appreciate the advice and information that can be found here.
  12. Thanks for the advice and pics. Now I will have to consider hat color for the head gasket! Does the grease help the gasket ‘swell’? Also, is there any concern about the higher temperature spots like the exhaust manifold?
  13. I will be getting my block back from the machinist after having the cylinders bored, crank turned, and cam lobe built up, etc. and will proceed with putting it all back together. I am looking for insight on recommendations of what others do for additional sealant used with the gaskets on the various engine parts when I put them on the block. Are there specific products that should or shouldn’t be used for different applications? I have already redone the manifolds (and heat riser), putting the gasket between intake and exhaust and began to wonder if there should be an additional sealant. This led me to consider the rest of the engine parts like water pump, oil pump, oil pan, timing cover, fuel pump, manifolds, etc.
  14. Hmm...I should’ve been more savvy and rotated it! Thanks. I found the body number on the driver’s side firewall and also matches. Don’t know how I missed it when I took off the cab except that it was painted and tucked right inside the cab seam. Has anyone else seen build cards like this?
  15. I received a build card in the mail today and was concerned about decoding. Mine appears much easier to decode than the others. I guess because of its bit earlier age? Does anyone know where I should look for the body number? All the rest seems to match. Todd
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