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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/21/2017 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    JOHN EDGE

    Best engine

    Who says a flathead 6 can't beat a hellcat. Did it today
  2. 13 points
    A few pics from this evening's cruise. These darn cars make me eat so much ice cream. I wonder how many cones have been eaten in this car over the past 64 years? I was experimenting with my iPhone tonight taking some pics. You can get some groovy distorted looking images. Lots of fanatical waves and thumbs up tonight during my cruise route. I stopped for gas and a guy approached and said he loved the car. Could he take a few pictures? Of course, I replied. Thank you. I took her up several good hills tonight. Testing her for speed and watching the temp gauge. I hit my local hill in 3rd, pulled hard, shifted into 4th and pushed on up, hitting 50 MH. Speed limit was 30 MPH so I did not go any faster. She ran great. Great cars these old Chryslers.
  3. 13 points
    Bobacuda

    Took my truck to a car show...

    Our local volunteer fire department has an annual car show. I missed it last year, but I was able to take my B-4-B to it this year (won Best Original Truck class). I am not into the trophies, but I was on Cloud 9 when the man I bought the truck from 42 years ago stopped by the truck to visit for a couple of hours. I had tried to buy the truck (parked, bed off, not running for at least 5 years) from his father - the original owner (Gilbert Toepfer - pronounced "Teffer"), but he would not sell. When Mr. Toepfer passed away, his son Marvin called my folks and asked if I wanted to buy the truck from his dad's estate - $100 back in 1975. Marvin is on the right, I am the one in need of a wide-angle lens on the left. He is now 81 yrs young and still quite sharp. We talked all things "old Dodge truck" and our hometown. It made his day as much as it did my son's and mine. Marvin told me that he never remembered the truck looking this nice since it was always a work truck. Because of its work status, he's pretty sure that no "back in the day" photos exist of it (but he will look). BTW, the man in the lawn chair on the left was showing his 1971 Barracuda (not a 'Cuda) convertible. He is the original owner. He joked that my truck was bringing the folks in, then they would look at his Barracuda to be polite. His car actually took top place at the show.
  4. 10 points
    Worden18

    My Pilothouse oil painting

    I've been meaning to post this for a while so here it is. This is my first oil painting on canvas since I was a senior in high school 30 years ago. It helped to watch a few Bob Ross videos on YouTube beforehand. A Pilothouse Dodge is nestled in an old shed while being looked upon by the winter moon. My angles are off a bit on the shed and the truck for that matter, but I'm still happy with the painting overall. Hope you guys enjoy looking at it. My thoughts are that the truck is in good running order, its just that the owner hasn't gotten up to the shed yet after the recent snow.
  5. 10 points
    Reg Evans

    Damaged piston

    So far sooooooooo good ! She's back together now and running surprisingly strong. The throttle response is lightning fast and the engine pulls harder than the 251 in my old Yellow truck. I am happy happy happy !!! I'm going to drive it for a couple days and then check the compression on all cylinders.
  6. 10 points
    greg g

    Made today's paper

    From this mornings home town parade.Happy Independent Day to all!
  7. 10 points
    medium_jon

    Finally some photos of my P20

    My first hobby is photography. My son, Jacob, decided at age 14 that he wanted 'an old car' when it came time to drive. I searched around and found this 1950 P20 Special DeLuxe Club Coupe that had been restored two owners ago. The previous owner bought it from the prior's estate. The PO had the bumpers rechromed, found some trim, redid steering tie rods, and a few other things. I've primarily just been doing maintenance, but Jacob is starting a Scarebird Disc Brake install real soon. I don't know why I haven't taken the time to take a photo of the car -- perhaps all the time my wife's kitchen remodel is taking? That project started at the same time we got the Plymouth -- hmm. Anyway, yesterday, 4 July 2017, I finished repairing the parking brake and then asked my youngest daughter to put on a dress and we headed out to take some photos. I started at local college campus but got run off by security. Headed to a park that has an ancient stone gazebo, but being a national holiday, the park was overrun with people. Decided I would head down to this pull off across the river as it has a place without any time telling details. Favorite shot of the youngest daughter with the Plymouth.
  8. 10 points
    HotRodTractor

    Wax or leave it alone.

    This is an old farm truck I pulled out of a fence row in Colorado. An afternoon with a hose, soap, and some Mother's cleaner wax got me here.
  9. 9 points
    Ricky Luke

    DeSoto tender 1954

    The Local Council I work for recently cleaned out the records area. Amongst the old contract files were quotes for a new utility for the electricity department. Here's one for a DeSoto. Rick
  10. 9 points
    after too many years, I finally got my shop built and got to pull the 53 out of the pile of crud that slowly enveloped it and put it in the new shop. My plans are to be driving this gal next summer.
  11. 9 points
    etzmolch

    Happy to announce...

    ...that I got my car back to road. Want to say thank you for this great forum and the help of all posts while looking for information during restoration and the answered questions I ask. First 250 mls I drove and hope a lot more will be added... Andre
  12. 8 points
    keithb7

    Running Hot valve Set. That was fun!

    Finally I got around to checking and adjusting the valves on my '53 Chrysler. I did a valve job in June. I set the valves best I could, cold. The car has been running well. Those in the know, say the valves need to be checked with the engine hot. Even better, while it's running. Well for me, this was a first. When I first learned about setting valves on a running engine, I laughed. Good Lord, why would anyone tell someone to sick their hands inside a hot running engine ? Well, I finally got some time to do it today. I took the car out for a ride. I got it nice and hot. Came back to a driveway with all the tools lay'd out in advance ready to go. Like a pit stop, I had it jacked up and the valves exposed in little time. I fired up the engine and I checked all my intake and exhaust valves. I did find a couple of exhaust valves were a little tight. As I expected, as they expand more as they heat up. I shut off the engine, made a quick adjustment, then fired it up again to check valves again. The hot, engine-running valve set enlightened me as to exactly why this needs to be done. You can really feel those feeler gages being pulled in when it's right. My intakes were all good, in spec. I made adjustments to my exhaust and I feel a lot better about properly cooling those hot valves while I am driving. After I was done, I put together a quick unedited, unscripted video for anyone interested in seeing how I did this. Sorry about trying the talk over the engine. It's hard to clearly hear what I am saying when my camera was so close to the engine. It feels great to do, and learn something new. I only burnt my left arm once near my wrist. Totally worth it! - Keith https://youtu.be/aameeYT7SXQ
  13. 8 points
    After reading i decided to make my own tool using the old upper pivot bar, pivot bar bushings, 2 bolts with 4 washers and 2 washers. I cut the pivot bar to the right size for mounting the shortened pivot bar bushings. I also welded a washer on the pivot bar bushing. I made the just fitting between the arms and secured it with the 2 bolts on the new pivot bar. I mounted the tool on the new bar and mounted the new bushing a few turn to center the bar, see also the link above. Now i could turn both old bushing out,1/16 inch each to spread the upper arm and mounted the new bushing according, see also the link above. After mounting the bushings i turned the old bushings in and removed the tool, the movement of the new bar and bushing is as it should be. Dan Old pivotbar and bushing converted to miller tool
  14. 8 points
    I'm sneakin up on 80. Best part is sharing with Grandkids who were in town for the party. They all drove the car. First Mo-power was a Chrysler Hemi in my 35 Ford about 1958. First all Mopar Mopar is my P15 originally purchased about 1996. About "about",....I suffer from CRS but I can usually get the facts about right.
  15. 8 points
    My cousin gave me a 52 Concord 2 door when I was 14, didn't run had lots of rust and the exhaust was rotted off from under the seat back. But it was all there, my next door friend and I got it running after a weeks wait to get money together to get a used battery from the junk yard down the street. Drove around the field, taught all the 12 and up kids in the area how to shift and drive, charged them 50 cents or two gallons of gas for a half hour behind the wheel. Even set up a spot with hay bales to practice parallel parking and three point turns which was part of the NY drivers liscence test. Every kid who practiced passed their tests first time. It was a killer way to meet girls, they came from surrounding towns to practice. Drove it for two summers on the lot, never used my own money for gas after the first week it was up and running. Put on a cherry bomb and a side exit tail pipe. Rebuilt the carb, fuel pump, the Genny,and rebushed the starter. Sold it to a neighbor for 50 bucks. Bought my 46 when I was 21 for 200 dollars in 1970 from the original owner. Done 80% of the work to put it in its current form. Drive it about 3000 miles a season, and endeavor to put one long road trip a year on it. Other than a fan belt and a couple of hot start problems it has never left us stranded. Plymouth builds Great Cars.
  16. 8 points
    1940 Dodge VC

    Laycock J-type Overdrive

    A lot of us want to keep our trucks as original as possible and, at the same time, improve the safety and performance to drive comfortably on today's roads. Along with brake upgrades, wringing more horses out of our flatheads, adding seatbelts and tightening up our suspension components, many of us have asked--how can I cruise at 65 while keeping the RPMs in a decent range? The three "big" solutions that stand out are a- swap transmissions for something with an overdrive, like a T-5 or an A833, b- swap rear ends, or c- add an overdrive, such as a Laycock. The problem with a- is that the engine may need to be pulled, an adapter plate might be required, a new hole in the floor must be cut and then there is the clutch... and what about the parking brake? The second option, b- presents the problem of gearing that is too tall for the torque output of the engine, especially if the flathead is wimpy, such as a 201. So... c- was the option that I was most interested in. No modifications needed for the parking brake, transmission or engine. Gear Vendors sells a unit, or you can opt for the route I followed: find a Laycock J-type from a donor Volvo. Here are the modifications that I did: The old truck came with the factory optional, slightly more desirable 4.10 ratio rear end (as opposed to the 5.63 stock rear end), so it could putter happily at 45 MPH and, sounding like a manic sewing machine, hit 65 MPH. I wondered about switching out the rear end—and had picked up one that was a 2.80:1 ratio. After doing a few calculations, I realized that the rear end would make the underpowered engine even more so. Maybe an overdrive would be better? I began a search that led to a Laycock model J overdrive, about the size and shape of a small watermelon. It fit nicely in mid-frame. I installed two drive shafts, one from the to transmission to the overdrive, the second from the overdrive to the rear end. It is important to mount these with the correct angles to preserve the u-joints. I also had to move the gas tank over by about an inch to fit around the overdrive. That wasn’t such an issue—the tank needed to be replaced, anyway. The Laycock overdrive is common on older Volvos. These are often listed on ebay—without the front drive shaft. I found a complete one, cut off the end of the shaft, and had a local machinist weld a u-joint receiver onto the end to accept a short drive shaft connection to the transmission. I fitted an aluminum plate with an oil seal for the front end of the overdrive unit. Ran a 12 volt wire to a fuse and button mounted below the dash--and added a pilot light that shows when the overdrive is engaged--and that was it. Simple! (an aside: make sure that the overdrive isn't engaged when putting the truck in reverse) My biggest issue was with the speedometer output shaft. The truck cable housing wasn’t long enough to reach and the knurled connector didn’t fit. I am working on an alternative, though. A sensor connected to an Arduino, to read the speed and drive a little electric motor connected to the speedometer head… I’ll probably use a GPS to provide the speed signal. BTW, in the process of putting the overdrive in, I discovered that the parking brake drum had developed a number of fractures and was close to exploding into fragments, so I replaced the whole arrangement with a snowmobile mechanical disc brake. That set up works very well for my purposes. Another tip: I put Lucas transmission oil additive—the stuff that you see on the car parts counters—into the non-synchro transmission and it worked so well that, for most of the gears, I can shift as if the transmission is synchro. Very nice. So, does the new setup work? Oh, yeah--I say with a big smile on my face. Oh, yeah, it is very, very cool. My 201 has no problem running the overdrive, and as a side benefit, I get an extra gear in 2nd and 3rd that makes puttering around town a lot more fun. Plus, the overdrive makes it easy to downshift without double clutching. I can wave to people as go around corners! Here are the pictures:
  17. 7 points
    52b3b Joe

    48 Desoto Project

    I thought I'd share my current project with everyone. I'm normally on the truck side, but my dad bought a 48 Desoto Custom 4 door a few years ago. We've been working on it VERY slowly mainly due to time constraints. The body has seen better days, the rockers were completely rusted out, and the drivers side of the car was vandalized in the 1970's (bricks were thrown at it). The sheet metal is pretty solid though, and the doors are rust free. When we bought it the engine was rebuilt in the late 70s, but they never fired it up. We got it running and drove it up and down the road. We went though the front end, resealed the rear axle, and rebuilt the brakes, so mechanically it is ready. Now all we have to complete is the dreaded rust repair and body work. I've never done anything this invasive on a car, but it wasn't too bad once you dive in. Over the 4th of July weekend, and last weekend I was able to get the rockers done on the passenger side of the car. It took a lot of time, but it is done. Don't laugh too hard, I'm not a welder or body guy. I'm just trying to make a nice driver. I'm ok with the results, so that's all that matters. Now I have one more side to do.... Pictures are below. I had to do a lot of other metal work under the car (body mounts and braces), the rear wheel well, and the front rocker/A pillar structure. A lot of it was rusted through and needed patches. It seems plenty strong now, and I think it will be good for another 50 years. I seam sealed and undercoated the inside of the rockers before welding the sill plates on. I'll try and post pictures every so often when I work on it but I can't promise it will be frequent.
  18. 7 points
    Satyr

    New guy here....

    Evening everyone, new guy here, been watching and reading here for a while, but didn't think I should join until I got another vintage mopar again. Well that day came a few weeks ago! I now have a 65 year old mistress that is gonna start taking my money... I now have in my driveway a 1952 Dodge business coupe, she runs and drives, but needs quarters and rockers. The floors and trunk are in great shape. And this is something that scares me a little, but I want to do as much work to her as possible.... I need to rebuild the front suspension, I have been reading about other members rebuilding theirs, it does not look too easy, but I think if I take my time I can do it. Any tips would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. I am looking forward to getting to know the members on here and trading stories...
  19. 7 points
    John Rogers

    Whose Truck Got A Workout?

    I spent a few hours weeding our families grave sites. It wasn't much of a workout for my truck but it was a pretty good one for me. 6 Months ago today on friday February 17th which strangely enough was also the 15th "anniversary" of my Dads passing, I suffered what the Drs called a "massive saddle pulmonary embolism". I didnt know what happened, all I knew is I coughed hard and from that moment on I couldnt take two steps without having to fight to breathe. I thought I had strained something in my chest and that it would pass but on Monday it still wasnt any better so my wife made a appt (behind my back ) hahaha for me to see my Dr. the next day and thats when I found out what had happened and I was taken my ambulance to the hospital in Tucson where I was a guest of theirs for a week..Six Drs have told me that with as massive as it was I should have died the second it happened and that "I still had work to do here" and or "God wasn't done with me yet" .Man was I scared,no make that terrified. Now here it is 6 months to the day later and Im doing really really good. Actually within a week of "the event" as my Dr calls it I was doing and feeling pretty darned good. Well except for the Lovenox shots I had to give myself 2x a day in the belly for a few weeks but even that was no big deal I was and am just so happy to be alive. A week ago my Cardiologist told me that the damage to my heart and lungs that he had seen months ago was completely gone and that I was free to do as much as my body will allow, and to listen to what my body is telling me. Then he gave me the ok to stop taking the Coumadin YAYYYYYY ! The only effects I still experience is that some days I feel so tired , a bit dizzy at times and knackered from the get go that about all I can do is rest and lay down. The Dr said thats 100% normal and that is can take from 6 months to a year or two to go away. He said its because of the trauma that my heart and lungs went thru and now my body is spending and using a LOT of energy to heal. Most days I feel pretty darned good. After I got out of the hospital I promised myself that I wasnt going to let "the small stuff irritate me anymore" and that I wasnt going to put of doing things that Ive been wanting to do but always seemed to get pushed aside... like working on my truck. So about 5 1/2 months ago I started doing the bodywork on it one panel at a time. I am or was a bodyman by trade for over 30 yrs so getting past the notion that I had to get it all done at once has been a bit strange. All those years of working on commission and meeting dead lines was kind of a hard habit to break at first but its a lot more fun to take it slow and do one panel at a time. I dont want it to be a chore, I want to enjoy it Anyway I started off by doing little things like restoring a Model 36 heater that I want to install in my truck and also a few dash parts that I believe are for I believe are for a 52 that I cant use but were in really nice shape what with being from the Az desert and all . Just small stuff at first to keep busy. As of late I have done both front fenders, the roof panel, the hood assembly and replaced the left front stake pocket. Along with doing the bodywork I've been stripping each panel because there was a LOT of paint on it . Ive been taking lots of pictures as I go along so I can look back at how it was when its all done. Sorry for the overly long and babbling post. Its a really huge and kind of emotional day for me what with it being 6 months and now Im off all the meds and everything . So very thankful . By the way, about the not whole not let the small stuff irritate me part.... easier said than done. I still get POd at some really stupid insignificant things at times but Im still trying hahaha. Its a work in progress. Again please forgive me for the long winded post. John
  20. 7 points
  21. 7 points
    ggdad1951

    10,000 Lakes Concours d'Elegance

    well kids, I applied and was accepted to the local Concours show. FEF will be on of 20 vehicles in his class. I'll make sure to post pictures after the show this Sunday. I have to leave my house at 4AM to get to my load in time...erf! Funny thing is I bet I'll be one of the few that actually DRIVE to the show (lots of worry about "rig parking" in the literature)! Wish me luck, my first official judging!
  22. 7 points
    I'm going to enter in my first real car show tomorrow. I asked my wife if she could throw together a sign on her laser at work. This is what she came back with...Blew me away.
  23. 7 points
    Physically I'm 65. Mentally, 18-19 (my wife would agree). Been a carnut since grade school. Kept me out of trouble. Could've been worse.
  24. 7 points
    T120

    Mopar Flatheads On Mountain Highways

    Going to the sun road - a photo taken on the way up...
  25. 7 points
    Matt Wilson

    priming oil pump

    To prime the pump, you need to completely submerge it in a container of oil and spin the shaft until all the bubbles are gone. After that, you need to prime the oil passages. Since the oil pump has a gear that meshes with a gear on the camshaft, it's not possible to stick a flat-bladed screw driver on a drill into the engine to spin the oil pump, like on many other engines, so some other method of pressurizing the oil system is needed. Some people do that by installing the primed oil pump, removing the spark plugs and cranking the engine until they see oil pressure on the gage. With the plugs removed, the engine doesn't develop compression, so the bearings won't be damaged as the engine spins - or so the theory goes. I did that with my first flathead rebuild, but I think there are better alternatives that are less risky to the bearings. Some folks have pressurized the passages with pressurized air tanks that force oil into them. I don't know the details of these setups. There is another option that I plan to use when I'm ready to start my freshly rebuilt engine. I have a spare oil pump, and I removed the gear from it by knocking out the pin that holds it to the shaft. I plan to install that pump on the engine and since the gear is removed, I should be able to spin it up with a drill and a flat-blade screw driver bit. There is a slot in the pump that normally engages the distributor, which should accommodate a flat bit. I'll spin the pump with the drill until I get good oil pressure readings for a few seconds, and then I'll rotate the engine a few degrees by hand, and I'll repeat this until I've rotated the engine at least a couple of full revolutions by hand. That should ensure the oil gets to all the passages. If you have your old oil pump, and if it produces a decent amount of pressure, it would probably be suitable for this purpose. I would take it apart and clean it up well before using it. After pressurizing everything in that manner, I plan to remove the oil pump and prime my new pump and install it onto the engine and then use the starter to spin up the engine (with plugs removed) to further ensure that everything gets well-lubed. The only areas that may not get so well-lubricated by these methods will be the tappets and valves, since they are not fed by pressurized oil, but you will no doubt be coating the tappets and their bores and the adjusting screws and valve guides with oil during assembly. I would recommend you also put oil into the cast cups that are behind the valve covers, which feed the tappets. Also, the cam lobes and the tappet surfaces that contact the cam lobes will need to be coated with cam lube for proper break-in. Usually, an engine with a new or freshly ground camshaft needs to be run at about 1800 - 2000 rpm for something like 20 minutes to ensure proper cam break-in, but follow your camshaft supplier's recommendations. Good luck!


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