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  1. I went to a local AACA clubs spring swap meet this morning. At the second building that I stopped at a gentleman had a set of Senior Trippe Safety Driving lights. I examined them and they were complete even had the correct Trippe mounting brackets and the level in the top of the bucket and the original wire and the original Trippe black tipped bulbs. Came home and polished the buckets and then hooked them up to my 6 volt battery charger and the bulbs even lit up, no cracks in the lens. As many of you might know these Trippe lights are not cheap, the price ranges from 1600-2200 for a set in perfect condition. OK, no i did not even pay close to that amount. I asked the seller what he wanted for them and I was thinking at least $1000+. He came back with a price of yes $100. You never saw any one ever get their wallet out and pay the seller. I basically stoles these from him and I asked him if that was his price and he said yes. Also at the same time he had a box of the Autolite BullNose 6v sealed headlight bulbs in a box. There were six in the box. Asked what he was getting for the bulbs he said $20, I then asked each, he said for all six, so another $20 was spent. Got home and tested these and they all work. There is some rust on the edges and on the back but this can be removed and repaint the back a gray color. As you also know MoParpro sells these same light autolite bullseye for over $200 each. So not a bad day of looking for parts. I attached the picture of the Trippe Lights. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    6 points
  2. Here is another small thing to brag about: I installed a leather cover onto the steering wheel The original objective was to protect the old plastic. It is still in very good condition (only minor cracks) but the perimeter is obviously worn. I wanted to cover the whole wheel (including spokes and horn button) with thin ivory leather. My wheel is brown, but I like the ivory color instead. However, I've quickly realized that I have no idea where to get the proper matching color leather, etc., to do this right. So I decided to experiment with just the universal cover strip, first. Bought this one. Size XL1, according to the provided chart. The leather is soft and stretchy, but way more thicker than I expected. The color turned-out to be not quite as I expected either, and the original holes were too far apart. I was planning to do a hidden seam, first, but with this kind of leather it was not technically feasible so I did a cross stitch instead. I punched more holes, trimmed the sides, and put it on. The stitching took a very long time. I am not sure whether or not I like it, at this point, but given the amount of time spent, I am definitely keeping it for a while 😂
    6 points
  3. had to slap on the chains to collect the last of the sap last weekend.. season is done... time for clean-up.
    3 points
  4. With My 18 year old girlfriend at the time, it was July 1990. We were driving through California. We stopped for dinner at Denny’s. Just north of Sacramento. 34 years later, tonite we stumbled into an old box of receipts. I didn’t realize my love of Meatloaf went back that far. Lol.
    2 points
  5. I made a sketch to see it it will help you. any question maybe I could explain.
    2 points
  6. Finally a few steps forward, got all the chrome trim removed, old windows out, and today got the trunk lid, many thanks to joe. Also have removed all the old upholstery and carpets. Replenishing my tool box so the real work can begin.
    2 points
  7. Driver inner fender done, passenger pod fill panel in and hood ornament holes drilled.
    2 points
  8. There's a small port in the master that let's fluid return to the reservoir. I suspect it's plugged or restricted at the least. Binding at the pedal pivot may also be part of it.
    2 points
  9. I found that a set of "guide bolts" were helpful. These thread into the bell housing transmission mounting holes and guide the transmission as you lift it onto the guide bolts and then push it towards the engine. They take the weight of the transmission as your trying to push it forward. I think mine were 7/16-14 x 6 inch bolts. Cut the hex heads off and file/grind a pair of flat spots on them so you can use an open end wrench to turn them in and out. Know I used them on '49 B1B floor shift transmission with engine in truck. On my '49 plymouth suburban the engine was out of the car when I installed clutch and stubby transmission. Not sure how much room you will have under your '50. May need to remove front engine mount bolts and tip engine up in the front to give you more room between trans and floor pan to slide trans in. Regards
    2 points
  10. Yeah, my leak was coming from the counter shaft bore. I cleaned it well and sealed with rtv. No more leak. Thanks guys.
    1 point
  11. You trim down the portion that sticks in the port. The freewheeling Tony Smith has some info on his Facebook site
    1 point
  12. VINTAGEPIC: saw this Dodge on the FB
    1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. The Maine State Police put an advisory out yesterday about navigating the State's roadways during the eclipse. They had the foresight to make one of the announcements - "Don't drive while wearing your eclipse glasses."
    1 point
  15. My 48 had one headlight stamped nov 1948 on the back. I also assume it is the original. I have it stashed too and put 2 new ones in.
    1 point
  16. ...hey, that would work if you're making a scale model of something. 😂
    1 point
  17. if you are addressing the OP/thread starter, realize the thread is 7 years old, and the last activity, until yesterday, was 7 years ago.
    1 point
  18. UP of MI can get pretty dark out by the lake. Summer trips up there are magical on the beach with friends, beers and a campfire.
    1 point
  19. Great fine nothing like having a parts car, if you have the room... It don't look like you have any frame damage, from the pictures it looks like the damage went over the front bumper. But be sure to check the front frame horns, the frame specifications are in the parts manual. This is a great form for information, but the classified are a little minimal. I have been finding Facebook to be a good source for parts...
    1 point
  20. I doubt Whitepost could supply or replace the diaphragm. The diaphragm's and base mount were sold as a complete assembly...no separate parts from MoPar. This is what the leaky situation probably will be....there is a very strong spring in that vacumn chamber.... Once the 1/2" nut in the hole of the outer cover and the 12 screws holding the diaphram are removed....those parts are likely to go flying. Use two 2" long safety screws to control the cover and diaphragm's gradual release off the shifter rod.
    1 point
  21. I try to imagine how brake fluid would splatter over the paint if the vehicle had an underfloor brake cylinder. All the images that come to mind are comic-style. Sorry, that's probably because of my vivid imagination. Joe
    1 point
  22. Of course. I did say I was going to write up a detailed guide. That takes good pictures. Maybe read the post before you start laughing next time. No, I don't need them today, but who knows when I'll need them in the future. 65 year old brain cells don't get better with time I've heard.
    1 point
  23. Welcome aboard,nice auto
    1 point
  24. 1 point
  25. I think this year's eclipse is being touted so much because the moon is closer the Earth than other recent ones, so there will be more of the sun blocked out / bigger shadow on the planet. I'd say it's not something I'd go out of my way for, but I don't have to. It's coming to me this time. Weather permitting, I'll hang-out on the deck with a six-pack and "experience" it (not even gonna try to look directly at it, even with a welding helmet, I'll watch the shadows, if there are any). I'm just amazed at how many people are predicted to be here, and how there is no way this area can be expected to handle it. We can only hope/assume everyone coming here knows there's already not much here. The locals speak in hushed tones about a Phish concert here in the County several years ago that completely shut the County down for two days, and there were only "thousands" of extra people. No gas, no groceries, no parking, no movement, nothing, just people everywhere. I-95 was a parking lot for 25 miles from the border (yeah, yeah, that's normal in some places, but sometimes up here you can drive on it for 60 miles and not see another car, if there's three cars between you and the horizon, traffic is heavy).
    1 point
  26. I took the second carb apart today, and took another 40 or so hi-res pictures. This one was the dirty one, but inside it was in great shape. Not a bit of corrosion, so it's a good rebuild core. The bowl area in the first one had zinc oxide in places, especially the accel bore. The only defect is the throttle shaft has nearly .010 of play, so it's going to need to be bushed. I may take the bottom off the first carb and use it on this one. That way I'd have one nearly perfect one. We'll see.
    1 point
  27. They are pretty much the same so long as they are from the small six line, of the period design, diameter, and use the same size spine out of the transmission.
    1 point
  28. Appreciate the help. I went over to Matt’s shop but it was closed. Talked to two businesses next door and they say he is rarely seen. Guy at the machine shop next door said come by on Monday and his boss will be in and can give me Matt’s number. Will check out Rhode Island Wiring. Attached is pic of my truck.
    1 point
  29. Bob: according to my 1936-42 Dodge Master parts book there already is a brake pedal return spring. Below is the page from the catalog showing the part and part Number. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  30. I have the same master cylinder in your car as in my 39 Desoto. Had a very similar issue. One day the brakes would work then the next day not and then could pump up the brake. then went to the floor. Decided to remove the floor pans, pulled the MC. Already had a spare rebuild kit and rebuilt the entire MC. Cleaned the two holes inthe resevoir. Bleed the MC on my bench and installed the MC back in the car and had good brakes. Next day working at my bench I looed at the pressure release valve that sits at the very front on the MC and then noticed a vey small slit in the rubber part of the valve. Also do not play with the piston push rod or turning it in or out. So this value permits the fluid to move out of the MC and also return but when there is a slit inthe rubber you get a very low pedal. Suggest that you rebuild the MC. i know it is a pain to get it out of the car but if all else fails then this is your only option. Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  31. 1937 Chevrolet One and a Half Ton Big Fender Truck On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/176293638841?
    1 point
  32. A source for a leather wheel cover that I used for the TR6 is Wheelskins. It is custom cut for a particular wheel and I was impressed with the quality and fit. It has been in service for three years and looks as good as new. Wheelskins It appears they can make about any size cover, just need to supply the dimensions of the wheel. The TR6 wasn't listed in their stock but the cover they made per my measurements fit perfectly.
    1 point
  33. I am not very good in physics, but suspect that when two bodies collide, regardless of whether only one or both of them are moving, they experience similar amount of impact. The collective force is basically split 50/50. If the other car had a plastic bumper, it could've also bounced back hiding plenty of damage underneath. That looks like a good parts car, congrats!
    1 point
  34. Many years ago, I was rear-ended while riding in the back seat of a 1970 Chevy sedan. There was a trailer hitch installed in the back. The other car was a brand new (at that time) BMW E36 (I think). In result: Chevy - no visible damage. BMW - broken bumper, broken headlight, broken grill, busted radiator, coolant all over the road. We drove off, the other driver required towing. So, crashes can be affected by many factors.
    1 point
  35. Do you have a new harness kit? If not, YnZ wiring is in California and speaking from personal experience their kits are good. Kit comes with very good instructions and are easy to install. Personally, I would go that route rather than pay someone else.
    1 point
  36. AHHHHHHHHH lol
    1 point
  37. 1) check for leaks below each wheel cylinder and master 2) bleed the brakes (unless you are already set on changing things) Also, while you are at it, drive the car for a couple of miles and verify whether or not all of the wheels (disks) are approximately the same temperature. And please stop driving with improperly operating brakes
    1 point
  38. I hope you’re not putting the pictured doghouse on your truck! 🤪😵‍💫
    1 point
  39. Same sources as any other parts really. French Lake auto, Desert Valley, etc. If you feel real lucky you can try www.car-part.com. It's an online junkyard search engine. Well dang, they show two sources for the fender.
    1 point
  40. I ran a wanted advert for a Poly intake manifold for a month or so on here & wasn't asked for any card details.........but I must admit getting the advert on was a little convalooted..........don't know how to explain what I did as I'm not sure what I did......lol...............andyd
    1 point
  41. I saw an add for Modello Turbo that interested me. I sent a picture of my 46 P15 and they replied with a sample line drawing. I had them eliminate the spotlight and antenna, and this is what I went with. 27” wide, 16” tall, $118 delivered from Turkey, took 13 days from start to receiving today. I’ll probably white out the hanger bracket with touch up paint. I like it but the problem is I have an idea for a perspective of a 47 Dodge truck and it means more stuff, I have enough stuff. They are neat and affordable though. The shadow is from my lighting in the shop, it sets out 1/2” from the wall. A flash picture works better. But that’s on my PC with a digital camera. You get the idea. Rick D.
    1 point
  42. Heck, I think 55 is too fast, I drive 45... 😋
    1 point
  43. In a Google search, type D6M1 2146357 carburetor. Other carburetor that may work E6U2. The eBay carb is missing a throttle piece, but you can use the one off of yours. Some of the price’s I’ve seen, $267 delivered is a deal. It has the electric dash pot and what looks like a kick down switch. Rick D
    1 point
  44. Love that shiny black. Nice paint job.
    1 point
  45. Good one! Pilot bushing. I did mine too. A $20 puller from Habour Frt is fine. Bread and grease tricks would not work for me.
    1 point
  46. Look at the centre of the clutch hub. It may say engine side or front. Etc. Mine had a front and back side that was to be installed properly for the clutch to work. Pull all the spark plugs so you can easily turn the flywheel by hand. When mounting the pressure plate don’t tighten two screw tight then move around to tighten two more. Apply equal pressure to all mounting bolts equally. Torquing in steps. A clutch alignment tool makes the job a lot easier. It lines the disc up. However I found a spare tranny input pinion was even better. It worked awesome to line things up. Yes, now is the time to also replace the throw out bearing. I agree with what was said above about cleaning up the flywheel.
    1 point
  47. If I understand correctly, you are saying that from what you've seen on the cars you've repainted, there was no primer coat. But maybe I am misunderstanding what is indicated by "single-coat". Anyway, since I painted the body of my car over 40 years ago, I couldn't remember for sure if there was a primer, or not, but recollected that there was. I just have one rear fender & 1 front fender that I didn't strip to the bare metal (at the plating shop), so I waited until I could get a chance to sand a spot on one of these pieces, to see if there was primer, or not. Took a while to get through all the paint, because the original color had first been painted some awful bright green with a brush, then later sprayed over gray. Anyway, my car, at least, has a dark gray primer under the original top-coat. (This was the rear fender.) Unless it was a replacement part, and then I suppose it would have been painted that standard color before it was repainted to match the car. So I guess that may not be "conclusive evidence". I looked at the few pictures I took while doing the body, and I only have one between when it was still gray till it was light Green again, and I didn't have good lighting, and most of it was sanded down to bare metal anyway.
    1 point
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