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I have an admittedly tight focus on the KT Keller cars, so that's what I research and play with. It's all about having fun after all and those are the ones I like. I am a huge fan of Overdrive transmissions because they don't really change the charm of the cars and actually add to it. When you put one in your car your speedo will be off at all speeds because the speedometer pinion gear was selected for a 4.1 ring and pinion. The good news is you can swap out the pinion from your old three speed to the O.D. and all will be back to normal ( assuming your speedometer doesn't need service ). But what if you changed the rear end ratio or the tire size? I don't advocate changing rear axles because I don't see much to be gained there. You can easily change the differential carrier ( aka 3rd member ) in a Plymouth if you want another ratio. Where I live there's lots of open road with highway speeds of 55 to 70 so optional ratios, tires and O.D. go well with my Plymouth. My P17 Coupe came with 6.40-15 tires ( modern equivalent 195/75/15 ) and a 3.73 final drive ratio so the speedometer pinion would be a 17 tooth gear ( p/n 652-848 ) for an example. Chrysler designed the pinions to use the same 6 tooth gear on the output shaft so you only need to change one gear to correct the speedometer. One thing you find out right away is selecting speedo gears is not an exact science. You can get close and you might hit it right on the button but you more likely will be over or under by 2 or 3 mph. That's why the Highway Patrol has an enforcement tolerance. So let's look at tires first 6.40 15 = 195/75/15 standard tire for a P17 6.70 15 = 205/75/15 standard tire for a P18 7.60 15 = 225/75/15 an optional size tire Final drive ratios 3.90 very common on long wheelbase cars 3.73 standard ratio on many optional on all 3.54 optional Chart of ratios & tires vs speedometer pinions 3.90 6.70 15 17 tooth pinion 3.73 6.40 15 17 tooth pinion 3.73 6.70 15 16 tooth pinion 3.54 6.70 15 16 tooth pinion All 7.60 15 16 tooth pinion So you can see you're not going to get an exact reading but you can get close enough to avoid a ticket. The part number for the 16 tooth pinion is 652-846. I have found that if you have the number for an obscure part the parts house will look to find it in their inventory but they are likely to blow you off if you just say "I need a 16 tooth speedometer gear." Happy hunting!3 points
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Yup, between 65 and 70. When I had earplugs in, I tended to go faster, haha....3 points
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with all due respect, items needed to exact this repair is common at any hardware store or big box building supply, TSC etc that one can walk in, get the item, pay and immediately got to work repairing. While mail order from many companies and sites are MOST BENEFICAL when you dealing/needing bulk quantity, I have to state IN MY OPINION this is not the best option for this particular thread. Heck if it boils right down to it, one can find where a person may park a chevy/gm product and find where these have fallen off and free for picking up. Ok so the last part is a joke...maybe real at times, but still intended as a jab/joke.2 points
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SURVIVOR: saw this Dodge between Lake Graham and Newcastle2 points
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Just use a torch to get the plug red hot....that oughta bust the rust loose................. π² π€£2 points
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John-T-53, thanks for all the pictures. Iβm sure a lot of us would like to make the tailgate and BBQ. Just not practical for most. However, your pictures really let those of us who canβt make it live vicariously through your pictures. The most and best of the bunch! I would love to bring this old girl to the BBQ but it involves border crossing (not a problem with a passport) and a three, four, or possibly five day drive depending on weather and lack of problems. It doesnβt have a tailgate but does have the next best thingβ¦..a big butt trunk.2 points
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you may be onto something Sniper, I am going to say a rolling wheel gathers no red paint.....2 points
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See now a song comes to mind I see a black wheel and I want to paint it red Apologies to The Rolling Stones2 points
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I use the in my opinion a lot because most of my unsolicited comments are just that, an opinion and in no manner saying good bad or indifferent....but just as I see it. The fact I will then state the whys and wherefores of my opinion is to say that it is not just a whim or silly notion and give some background, color and size ratio etc...technically I could care less one way or the other what anyone chooses to do as it is not my car no more than if a person likes or dislikes what I do with mine. Big hobby folks, I will admit at one time it would rankle me see what some folks may do...but hard lesson to learn is JUST NOT MY BUSINESS....the red wheels, there is NO WAIVER here......lol2 points
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β’pinched tube on intake manifold appears to be the vacuum source for the vacuum windshield wiper motor β’intake manifold appears to have a partial PCV setup β’spark plug wires appear a little on the long side...universal sets with 90Β° boots can be sourced2 points
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Thanks sniper and DJK for digging up info. And here's my two cents about electric pumps. First off, I love 'em! And here's why: When one of my vehicles has been sitting for a long time, I don't have to waste precious battery capacity cranking the motor to get fuel up to and in the carb. I also put a electric switch in the supply line to the pump so that, in Autumn when I'm putting cars to sleep, I can turn off the switch and keep running the motor until it dies. This does a good job of draining the carb, reducing varnish build-up. Yes, I could use a gas additive (and I often do), but with lots of cars and equipment, and full gas tanks in each, that's lots of Stabil! And, in regards to leaving the mechanical pump in the line, I've done that numerous times, but one thing to consider is this: if you do that and the rubber diaphram of the mechanical pump fails, you'll get raw gas going into your crankcase and diluting your oil... and not know it!2 points
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I dunno, call me a snob but I's rather spend my tool money on real quality tools. Like Starret or Mitutoyo. Yeah, they cost a bit more but are definitely quality tools.2 points
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Rmon...........Can I throw a curved ball into the ring...........lol............in 1973 I installed a 318 Poly V8 in my 1940 Oz Dodge.............at the time there were no instructions available nor did I have much in the way of outside help but I could weld and use a tape measure so I had a go.........I was 19 and basically did a few things more than once but I still have the car & its Poly V8.........now you have a 1954 Plymouth.......did you know that in 1957 Chrysler here in Australia introduced what they called a Chrysler Royal..........it was based on the 1953/54 Plymouth body and chassis with 1955/56 front & rear fenders attached.............the interesting thing that you need to be aware of is that the Chrysler Royal for the 6 yrs of its use in Australia from 1957 to 1962 had a 313( essentially the same as the 318) Poly V8 which is basically the same block as the 1966 onwards 318/340 & 360 V8's that mopar used and in fact these later engines are in fact not as wide nor as heavy as the earlier 313/318 poly and also use a much lighter transmission............your best bet would be to get as late an LA series Mopar V8 & trans that you can, also a later rear axle from either a mopar or something else that fits & a disc brake conversion for the front and have at it ..........I've attached 3 pics of the Oz Chrysler Royals showing that 1953/54 Body shell....each in these cars was available with a 313(318) Poly V8 and cast Iron Torqueflite push button trans.......also a couple of pics of my 1940 Dodge 4dr Sedan & the 313/318 Poly V8 thats lived there for 51yrs now........regards from Australia.......Andy Douglas2 points
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Second that thought. Never saw a plug blow apart on a flathead till I had three Champion plugs do it over two days. Switched to AC and never had another issue, same with the NGK which I also use in all my small engines, ATVs and motorcycle.2 points
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Champion spark plugs...ran them for years in everything from V8s to single cylinder lawn and garden equipment...then in the late 90s, they needed to be replaced more often from electrode wear, and by the mid aughts they were blowing apart in the small engines, larger engines were fouling and hard to start in cold weather. Switched to AC Delco on big engines and NGK in small and haven't had a lick of trouble since.2 points
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I looked at the license plate mount this afternoon, and tried to get the old plate off to be able to get a decent picture. It isn't quite as I remembered. The center (vertical) bracket hooks under the bumper, and the center bumper bolt passes through it, securing it to the bumper. Then there is a horizontal c channel bracket fixed to it (welded?), with long slots, to accommodate various mounting points for the different shapes of license tags used during that era. This is the best I could do, as the tag mounting bolts are rusted fast, and just turn on the back side. (I could have broken the tag off, but didn't want to ruin such a perfect license plate.... )2 points
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Not sure if itβs been mentioned but make sure you use engine assembly lube on the bearings during assembly. Otherwise itβs metal on metal when starting or even turning over with the starter. Not a good thing!2 points
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SURVIVOR: spotted this '52 in Jacksboro...it's had some work done but this was the only time I saw it at the old fillin station that I've motored past several times in the last 6 months2 points
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Since the easiest position to replace the bearings is at the bottom of the stroke, two cylinders will have the best access, the other 4 will have severely compromised access. Replace the bearings in the two at the bottom one at a time, rotate the crank until another two are at the bottom, do those and then rotate again to get the last two. It only takes about 4 inches of fuel line that way.2 points
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Ok. Here is the Summit Racing listing of electric fuel pumps (2000+ hits related to fuel pumps): https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=electric fuel pump Most of the pumps have fewer than ten reviews except the......wait for it.......Carter pumps, the most common which have hundreds of reviews averaging at least 4.5 stars. Here is the search return for just Carter pumps and related stuff: https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=carter electric fuel pump If you want to look elsewhere you might check into Bosch, AC Delco, Airtex and Walbro but I have no personal experience with them. I've run Carter rotary pumps on two vehicles over the past 15 years with no failures. But the one on the Plymouth might die tomorrow.....1 point
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for the most part our Home Depot, Lowes, TSC and local hardware stores carry a fairly good selection of hardware....NOW THEY DO NOT have everything....and SAE fine stainless does fall in that DOES NOT HAVE But I do have a company locally that has a better selection and prices and will sell 1 or a thousand with the same courteous service. Cannot say that for a certain main stream specialty store that by the way went tits up in this area due to the poor management and over the top gouging prices. For many folks the TSC by the pound hardware is a pretty good deal when you look at. I was not saying ordering on line was out of the question, sometimes it is the only means to an end on some very special hardware......and I have ordered in my fair share, I do however give the locals a chance to fill the order first so not to have stop/delay a segment of a build/process. Common sense stuff folks, nothing more.1 point
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and as such when it is no longer original (as in not broken on assembly) toss these for some fresh hardware preferably stainless steel, BUT if you are a purist, and must stay with the stock stuff break out the molasses and let the big dog eat, weld the breaks, chase the threads and when completed apply for social security......enjoy a few pancakes while soaking your nuts and other hardware1 point
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So in 2005 I bought 4 uniroyal 205 75 r15 radials from Walmart,at 52 bucks with mounting balancing and unlimited road hazard warranty, mounted on new 15 inch aftermarket rims,if memory serves I ran them for 2 years. They were a bit short in diameter compared to the 6.00x16 original size. In 2007 we decided to drive to Charlotte, NC to attend the POC event there. In preparation for the trip I mounted a pair of 225 75r15 on the rear to drop some rpms going down the road. I put the 205 take offs in a black contractors trash bag and stored them under my work bench in the garage. Three years ago, I replaced the fronts with the stored pair. After about 45000 miles the fronts showed equal wear, at about half tread depth, no scalloping and no visible checking or bulging. The reserved set still looked new with 80 % tread and no visible faults. They have about 9000 miles on them since re mounting. The rears now have about 60k on them. They show as good condition with about 1/2 tread left. They came from Pep Boys and are what was then their Cornell house brand, according to the paper work their out the door price was 115 for the pair. Looking back, my father would be proud of my parsemoney in this matter. Others would call me a cheap SOB. Whatever, I think, I will let them ride for the season. Looking on line, both the 205 75 and 225 75 sizes have been relegated to trailer sizes through tegular retail sources, so not good news. I loath the thought of dealing with Cocker...1 point
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SURVIVOR: saw this Dodge between Lake Graham and Newcastle1 point
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My point was that O.D. cars had final drive ratios in the neighborhood of 4.10 ( some places say 4.30 ) and the speedometer pinion that went with it. Thus no matter what gear you were in the speedometer would read incorrectly. Which is true even if that line was unnecessary ( my bad ). All transmissions that have speedometer gears measure the driveshaft rotation speed. Some exceptions are for example VW Beatles measure left front wheel speed and SAAB 99/900 which have the gear on the differential. You can buy speedometers that measure GPS signals and the are dead on with no connection to the wheels or driveshaft but they are really pricey. What I was trying to get across was that you can correct your speedometer reading with an easy swap of the speedometer pinion gear. If you want an O.D. transmission ( R10 G1 ) you can change the speedo pinion with the one in your old transmission. However if you swap differential carriers to get the ratio you want, you need to score the speedo pinion from that car. There is an exception here in that the 3.54 ratio is usually in an automatic transmission car and that speedometer pinion is not the same design as the manual transmission. Slight changes in tire size can get you closer as well.1 point
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WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER Thanks for tip Los. I pulled the sender and measured the gas level, it was at 2 1/2" in an 8" deep tank, which matches the fuel gage reading of about 1/4 tank of gas. Looking in the tank from the sender hole I couldn't see any water, but it was probably back by the tank drain, and the drain plug is stuck and I can't remove it. The one thing I didn't do last fill up was to put Stabil in the tank. It keeps the gas good and also helps with condensate. When I measured the gas level, I stirred the gas in the tank then I smelled the gas. It didn't smell bad, but it smelled weak. The strong smell wasn't there. It smelled lite, like half of the normal gas smell. I have new fuel filters on the way to replace the one before the prime pump at the tank and the one before the carb and when I change them, I'll take another crack at removing the drain plug and hopefully know for sure about the water in the tank. So tune in next week for another exciting episode of "As the Wheel Turns". Joe Lee1 point
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I used rust cure formula 3000 on the inside of the car, once I was refreshing the interior. Apparently, there were some studies performed by Canadian DOT, or something like that, indicating that liquid rust proofing really works if applied frequently. Some of our Canadian members might know better. I am planning to use it on the outside, as well, but just did not get around to it, yet. However, I would not be able to test it since the car is not driven in adverse weather conditions. Thus far, the only thing I can say is that it really does not drip and spreads very well1 point
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"OD" as he's known, about to head out in his '93 Cummins, back to Escalon. There was also a similar or equal year truck that showed up, a dualie (no photo, unfortunately). The two owners connected, and an exchange of parts is planned in the near future. Heading back down the 101 for the return trip.... F the 5.1 point
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Almost certain that was a 218 car.. Once you "rod" it go all the way. But for sure get you a service manual for all necessary specs and diagrams1 point
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this is in line to big aux lights go better with big standard lamps.....you have the opportunity to make a fellow hobbyist happy, line your pockets and do your car justice at the same time...but again...just my opinion.....this guy needs to lose the whore red wheels and go with body color either primary or secondary color will look better than this stark red.....again my opinion.....nothing says you cannot paint a car ugly....lol1 point
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Oh sure, just as he finally got it properly broken in you went and got a new one. Gonna take lots of work to break in the new one, lol.1 point
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OP's first post mentioned flaking on the bottom shell of # 6 so I don't think he's going to be able to just leave them alone and since the engine was stuck he may need to go further in depth. The visual inspection is the start. How far the OP needs to go can be determined later. You've led a sheltered life. There's a lot of things that were done to salvage engines years ago that people shudder at today.1 point
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My 40 Dodge as does all Oz cars has to use both front & rear licence or what we call number plates.....my car uses the original 1940 brackets that fit on both sides of the bumper dumb irons and are clamped with the dumb iron between them and fixed with a bolt on top of & at the bottom of where the dumb iron is.............then a stamped steel cross bracket is factory welded onto the dumb iron clamp and the number plate bolted onto this cross bracket........you can just see this clamp underneath the lower edge of the number plate. The rear plate attaches to the factory cross bracket which bolts onto the factory triangular mount on the trunk lid...........andyd1 point
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https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Micrometer-Precision-Machinist/dp/B0045UZGSC/ref=sr_1_4? You want a set like this.1 point
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Yes, have used tinyURL many times through the years, just didn't take the time to use the third party app this instance. I knew the long link would work in my reply even though it was messy. But the info about tinyURL might be helpful for those who are not aware of the app.1 point
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My 49 P15 came from a state that required a front plate, and it has a sort of clamp on system that hooks over the top & bottom edges of the bumper, then the tag is attached to that. (On our 2009 Dodge Journey, which came from Florida, I used pull-ties to hold it in place. (Ohio discontinued the requirement for the front tag a couple years ago. But already a fair number of people didn't mount the front one, even though it was the law. My niece's husband has some sort of Camaro or something that he considers a collector car, and he never put one on.)1 point
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I have access to a parts car but it is a 47 or 48 2 door coupe. Not sure if the parts interchange or if the arm rests are still attached. Hoping to get out to the salvage yard this weekend or very early next week and will check. I will photo and advise once I know for sure. Dave1 point
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I remember doing the exact same thing (finger tightening lug nuts) on my first car. Got out of the driveway and the tail gave a little wiggle, which I thought was odd. made it another 300 yards and the rear gunner side of the car suddenly dropped. I softly applied the breaks while looking over my shoulder twords the trouble area to see my right rear tire bounce passed me, over q guardrail and into a blackberry bush. After an adventure extracting the tire. I could find nothing broken and realized I had not tightened the lug nuts. I ended up buying a new set of lug nuts to replace the ones that fell off. So dont feel like you have a monopoly on dumb mistakes. We all do it!1 point
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I had taken the tires and rims off my 39 Desoto to do some checking under the car. I also have the lug bolts and are all right hand treaded. Did my checkout put the rims and tires back on the car used the t-wrench to tighten the bolts and both rear wheels. Thought they were on tight enough took the car for a ride around the block and then heard the wheel noise. stop the car in my neighborhood saw the bolts were loose. walked home got my t-wrench and tighten them up. So we all have had some issues with not tightening the lug bolts. So now when I put the car back on the ground I retighten all the bolts for all the wheels that had been removed. Lesson learned once but never twice for this issue again. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com1 point