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I went to a local AACA clubs spring swap meet this morning. At the second building that I stopped at a gentleman had a set of Senior Trippe Safety Driving lights. I examined them and they were complete even had the correct Trippe mounting brackets and the level in the top of the bucket and the original wire and the original Trippe black tipped bulbs. Came home and polished the buckets and then hooked them up to my 6 volt battery charger and the bulbs even lit up, no cracks in the lens. As many of you might know these Trippe lights are not cheap, the price ranges from 1600-2200 for a set in perfect condition. OK, no i did not even pay close to that amount. I asked the seller what he wanted for them and I was thinking at least $1000+. He came back with a price of yes $100. You never saw any one ever get their wallet out and pay the seller. I basically stoles these from him and I asked him if that was his price and he said yes. Also at the same time he had a box of the Autolite BullNose 6v sealed headlight bulbs in a box. There were six in the box. Asked what he was getting for the bulbs he said $20, I then asked each, he said for all six, so another $20 was spent. Got home and tested these and they all work. There is some rust on the edges and on the back but this can be removed and repaint the back a gray color. As you also know MoParpro sells these same light autolite bullseye for over $200 each. So not a bad day of looking for parts. I attached the picture of the Trippe Lights. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com6 points
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Here is another small thing to brag about: I installed a leather cover onto the steering wheel The original objective was to protect the old plastic. It is still in very good condition (only minor cracks) but the perimeter is obviously worn. I wanted to cover the whole wheel (including spokes and horn button) with thin ivory leather. My wheel is brown, but I like the ivory color instead. However, I've quickly realized that I have no idea where to get the proper matching color leather, etc., to do this right. So I decided to experiment with just the universal cover strip, first. Bought this one. Size XL1, according to the provided chart. The leather is soft and stretchy, but way more thicker than I expected. The color turned-out to be not quite as I expected either, and the original holes were too far apart. I was planning to do a hidden seam, first, but with this kind of leather it was not technically feasible so I did a cross stitch instead. I punched more holes, trimmed the sides, and put it on. The stitching took a very long time. I am not sure whether or not I like it, at this point, but given the amount of time spent, I am definitely keeping it for a while 😂6 points
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had to slap on the chains to collect the last of the sap last weekend.. season is done... time for clean-up.3 points
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Finally a few steps forward, got all the chrome trim removed, old windows out, and today got the trunk lid, many thanks to joe. Also have removed all the old upholstery and carpets. Replenishing my tool box so the real work can begin.2 points
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There's a small port in the master that let's fluid return to the reservoir. I suspect it's plugged or restricted at the least. Binding at the pedal pivot may also be part of it.2 points
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I found that a set of "guide bolts" were helpful. These thread into the bell housing transmission mounting holes and guide the transmission as you lift it onto the guide bolts and then push it towards the engine. They take the weight of the transmission as your trying to push it forward. I think mine were 7/16-14 x 6 inch bolts. Cut the hex heads off and file/grind a pair of flat spots on them so you can use an open end wrench to turn them in and out. Know I used them on '49 B1B floor shift transmission with engine in truck. On my '49 plymouth suburban the engine was out of the car when I installed clutch and stubby transmission. Not sure how much room you will have under your '50. May need to remove front engine mount bolts and tip engine up in the front to give you more room between trans and floor pan to slide trans in. Regards2 points
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My 48 had one headlight stamped nov 1948 on the back. I also assume it is the original. I have it stashed too and put 2 new ones in.1 point
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if you are addressing the OP/thread starter, realize the thread is 7 years old, and the last activity, until yesterday, was 7 years ago.1 point
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Its a place called SendCutSend. You just send them a drawing of the part, tell them the material and thickness and bam. I've used them a couple times now. Better than going to a traditional machine shop, or even just doing it yourself some times.1 point
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The trippe Lights were made inthe Senior and also Junior product lines. The Senior Lights were used on the bigger cars of the 1920's thru 1930's. These were the cream of the driving lights. When also going to a quality car show look at the big cars such as the Packard's, Lincolns and every notice that they have a large driving light right in the middle of the front bumper and that there isa rod that is connected to the light. These are called Pilot Ray lights. These light will pivot as you make a turn into a corner or a side street so that you have light to see wre your are turning. There was a rod that connected to the drag link and when turning the steering wheel right or left the Pilot Ray light would move in that direction. This was the precursor to the idea that Tucker had for his third headlight in the grill, it was designed to move in the direction of the steering when turned. My Senior light are stationary lights just like fog lights but these are 8 inch lens and spread a beam to light up the roadway at night. These lights if you look an Ebay are not cheap they range in price from $1500 to $2500 for a quality set that is ready to put on your car. If you ever go to Hershey in the Fall for the AACA swap meet and car show you will see these lights on cars. The parts for these are expensive. They even had a special wrench that had knurls or groves to tighten the mounting bolt that hlds the light onto the upright bracket. This little tool is not cheap it sells for around $125-150. And to answer someone else question this is not a joke and also not a scam. I only post information that is correct and just thought other cars owners might be interested and to let everyone know that there are still good buy's to be found, just have to be at the venders site early so as the saying goes the Early Bird gets the worm. For MoPar car owners the correct headlight bulbs, seal beams, from 1949-1956, stil using 6 volt systems, the correctbuld that was used is the Autolite Bullseye beam bulb and not the standard 6v 6006 replacement bulb. During the 1940 -56 every headlight was still manually aimers against a white wall and the car was positioned 25 feet from the wall. In 1956 approx they came out with the BEAR headlight aiming machne and the headlight bulbs then had the three tits or gismos to aim the lights. I did a presentation at the National Desoto club several years ago with all of this information and most of the members did not even know what headlight were to be installed on their cars. I have even found that the AACA judges and there judging manual does not even have this information and I have sent them this information but they have not changed their judging criteria. Car from the 1940-1948, Mopar and also others would have used a headlight number 4030 and also would not have the aiming tits. The first picture is the Autolite Bullseys sealed beam. The 2nd and 3rd picture is the 4030 bulbs and note no aiming tits these bulbs were used from 1940-48 on the MoPar cars and Trucks Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com1 point
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That tends to back up what Ken was saying. I think you'll be ok, but a close comparison of the old vs new before installation would cinch it. Use a square to measure the two, distance from mounting face and height from the same bolt hole?1 point
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Great fine nothing like having a parts car, if you have the room... It don't look like you have any frame damage, from the pictures it looks like the damage went over the front bumper. But be sure to check the front frame horns, the frame specifications are in the parts manual. This is a great form for information, but the classified are a little minimal. I have been finding Facebook to be a good source for parts...1 point
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Anti-seize compound on the hub/wheel centers and light coat on the wheel to hub meeting surface for me. Some recommend on the threads too, and I've done that, but you need to modify the torque specs with such well lubed threads. Might break a stud or bolt. It lasts much better that oil, and is intended for that use.1 point
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I took the second carb apart today, and took another 40 or so hi-res pictures. This one was the dirty one, but inside it was in great shape. Not a bit of corrosion, so it's a good rebuild core. The bowl area in the first one had zinc oxide in places, especially the accel bore. The only defect is the throttle shaft has nearly .010 of play, so it's going to need to be bushed. I may take the bottom off the first carb and use it on this one. That way I'd have one nearly perfect one. We'll see.1 point
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I did the same for my Chevy, only I slotted the ends with a hacksaw so I could use a screwdriver.1 point
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Appreciate the help. I went over to Matt’s shop but it was closed. Talked to two businesses next door and they say he is rarely seen. Guy at the machine shop next door said come by on Monday and his boss will be in and can give me Matt’s number. Will check out Rhode Island Wiring. Attached is pic of my truck.1 point
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If the master cylinder is working and no leaks why not add a return spring. I would mount it at the push rod pin. Take a look at the clutch return spring and see how it is mounted...1 point
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1937 Chevrolet One and a Half Ton Big Fender Truck On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/176293638841?1 point
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Just hope I get one of the "good" 737's! (YIKES)1 point
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Thank you for the feedback 😃 Absolutely not. It is a very tight fit, the strip was cut leaving a good 1/4" gap, when hugging the wheel, so that it could be stretched conforming to the exact surface shape. It feels basically like a regular leather steering wheel.1 point
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Many years ago, I was rear-ended while riding in the back seat of a 1970 Chevy sedan. There was a trailer hitch installed in the back. The other car was a brand new (at that time) BMW E36 (I think). In result: Chevy - no visible damage. BMW - broken bumper, broken headlight, broken grill, busted radiator, coolant all over the road. We drove off, the other driver required towing. So, crashes can be affected by many factors.1 point
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GRRRR! 🥵 ...... I will see, I think @kencombs is correct in the oil pump failed. It does have a spun rod bearing I'm going to bet money on that. You would think if the oil pump failed going 80 mph down the freeway, the oil light would come on, the rod then would start knocking, then the hammered bearing would spin. What happened was, the bearing spun causing the motor to have to work harder, then the rod started knocking, then the oil light came on .... It is a mystery. This is the motor I'm pulling out and it did run perfect .... I'm still guessing it has 80K-100K miles on it .... these motors easily go 300K miles with some maintenance. Just looking at the heat shield says something about mileage. Here is the engine I'm installing, they claim it has 135K miles on it .... It will clean up fine, there is no oil leaks on it just years of dirt from sitting on a shelf. Looking at the heat shield wants me to say .... she been rode hard and put away wet. .... The idler pulley is shot and needs replaced .... I just question now if it really is 135K miles on it. ..... They had another with 150K on it for $100 less .... I paid up and bought the lower mile engine. All I can do is hope & pray. I have all new hoses, water pump, coil, plugs, plug wires, crank sensor, cam sensor I'm using my intake and TB on it ..... All I need is a good engine to start with ..... and hope it goes well this time ..... you never know when dealing with used engines. I still plan on total disassemble of the old engine and rebuild if I can .... keep it around for a spare ..... I should be pretty good at swapping engines in this car by then1 point
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1) check for leaks below each wheel cylinder and master 2) bleed the brakes (unless you are already set on changing things) Also, while you are at it, drive the car for a couple of miles and verify whether or not all of the wheels (disks) are approximately the same temperature. And please stop driving with improperly operating brakes1 point
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Same sources as any other parts really. French Lake auto, Desert Valley, etc. If you feel real lucky you can try www.car-part.com. It's an online junkyard search engine. Well dang, they show two sources for the fender.1 point
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I ran a wanted advert for a Poly intake manifold for a month or so on here & wasn't asked for any card details.........but I must admit getting the advert on was a little convalooted..........don't know how to explain what I did as I'm not sure what I did......lol...............andyd1 point
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I just finished putting my Overdrive back together. So this is fresh in my mind. 1) The Best Gasket Company gasket sets do not include the seal washers for the bolts on the main shaft bearing retainer ( where the throw out bearing is mounted ) 2) That same part sometimes requires more than one gasket to seal. ( because of variations in the bearings ) 3) There’s plug that fits in the end of the 2nd & high shift shaft. ( but not the first & reverse and I can’t tell you why ) 4) The counter shaft could be a source of leakage. I used some low strength Locktite for pre-assembled parts on it, then a dab of Permatex Right Stuff gasket sealer. ( the idea of using a penny as a plug is one I will investigate before installation ) 5) There’s gasket between the bell housing and the transmission. So there’s some ideas as a source of leaks.1 point
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In a Google search, type D6M1 2146357 carburetor. Other carburetor that may work E6U2. The eBay carb is missing a throttle piece, but you can use the one off of yours. Some of the price’s I’ve seen, $267 delivered is a deal. It has the electric dash pot and what looks like a kick down switch. Rick D1 point
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Good one! Pilot bushing. I did mine too. A $20 puller from Habour Frt is fine. Bread and grease tricks would not work for me.1 point
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Look at the centre of the clutch hub. It may say engine side or front. Etc. Mine had a front and back side that was to be installed properly for the clutch to work. Pull all the spark plugs so you can easily turn the flywheel by hand. When mounting the pressure plate don’t tighten two screw tight then move around to tighten two more. Apply equal pressure to all mounting bolts equally. Torquing in steps. A clutch alignment tool makes the job a lot easier. It lines the disc up. However I found a spare tranny input pinion was even better. It worked awesome to line things up. Yes, now is the time to also replace the throw out bearing. I agree with what was said above about cleaning up the flywheel.1 point
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Never replaced a clutch on a flat 6 Plymouth,but have on other old cars,and I can tell you that you need to take a really good look at the flywheel to see if it has grooves worn into it (scored) before replacing the clutch. If it does,take it off and take it to an automotive machine shop to have it resurfaced. If you don't,you will have sentenced your new clutch to an early death. Not 100 percent necessary,but if it were ME,I would also replace the throw-out bearing while I have it apart. Doesn't cost that much,and I see it as cheap insurance because it is a real pain in the butt to have to take your car apart again to keep it from sounding like you have a rod knocking. Do a job once,do it right,and be done with it so you can move on to other things.1 point
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Thursday I bought a gallon paint stripper to prep the van box with. I used it Thursday and Friday...no problems, worked quick and easily removed the paint. Today, results is a bit varying. I have to use two coats to strip the paint as with this rainy day...the product seems to dry quickly whereas before on a nice sunny day it stayed wet. Strange stuff, I apply one more light coat to clean the panel of all residue. Now the killer, the panel is flash rusting immediately. Now of course it is raining today but I am inside. I have to do an immediate wipe with phosphoric to check the flash rust. The days before were still quite humid and would have expected a bit of flash then. Am thinking to finish this side and let the big dog sleep till the rain passes. Anyone else ever see immediate flashing of the panel with rust. This is Jasco stripper, seems all the stripper product formula have been changed of late and this one is actually a water clean up solvent. Soon as it hits water it jels and balls right up. I bought Jasco as my other normal brand was not available in a jelly like semi paste that would stick to vertical surfaces.1 point
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Filled the radiator, started the engine, and the plug stayed in place and did not leak. Beginners luck I would say.1 point