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  1. I went to a local AACA clubs spring swap meet this morning. At the second building that I stopped at a gentleman had a set of Senior Trippe Safety Driving lights. I examined them and they were complete even had the correct Trippe mounting brackets and the level in the top of the bucket and the original wire and the original Trippe black tipped bulbs. Came home and polished the buckets and then hooked them up to my 6 volt battery charger and the bulbs even lit up, no cracks in the lens. As many of you might know these Trippe lights are not cheap, the price ranges from 1600-2200 for a set in perfect condition. OK, no i did not even pay close to that amount. I asked the seller what he wanted for them and I was thinking at least $1000+. He came back with a price of yes $100. You never saw any one ever get their wallet out and pay the seller. I basically stoles these from him and I asked him if that was his price and he said yes. Also at the same time he had a box of the Autolite BullNose 6v sealed headlight bulbs in a box. There were six in the box. Asked what he was getting for the bulbs he said $20, I then asked each, he said for all six, so another $20 was spent. Got home and tested these and they all work. There is some rust on the edges and on the back but this can be removed and repaint the back a gray color. As you also know MoParpro sells these same light autolite bullseye for over $200 each. So not a bad day of looking for parts. I attached the picture of the Trippe Lights. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    6 points
  2. Here is another small thing to brag about: I installed a leather cover onto the steering wheel The original objective was to protect the old plastic. It is still in very good condition (only minor cracks) but the perimeter is obviously worn. I wanted to cover the whole wheel (including spokes and horn button) with thin ivory leather. My wheel is brown, but I like the ivory color instead. However, I've quickly realized that I have no idea where to get the proper matching color leather, etc., to do this right. So I decided to experiment with just the universal cover strip, first. Bought this one. Size XL1, according to the provided chart. The leather is soft and stretchy, but way more thicker than I expected. The color turned-out to be not quite as I expected either, and the original holes were too far apart. I was planning to do a hidden seam, first, but with this kind of leather it was not technically feasible so I did a cross stitch instead. I punched more holes, trimmed the sides, and put it on. The stitching took a very long time. I am not sure whether or not I like it, at this point, but given the amount of time spent, I am definitely keeping it for a while 😂
    6 points
  3. had to slap on the chains to collect the last of the sap last weekend.. season is done... time for clean-up.
    3 points
  4. With My 18 year old girlfriend at the time, it was July 1990. We were driving through California. We stopped for dinner at Denny’s. Just north of Sacramento. 34 years later, tonite we stumbled into an old box of receipts. I didn’t realize my love of Meatloaf went back that far. Lol.
    2 points
  5. I made a sketch to see it it will help you. any question maybe I could explain.
    2 points
  6. Finally a few steps forward, got all the chrome trim removed, old windows out, and today got the trunk lid, many thanks to joe. Also have removed all the old upholstery and carpets. Replenishing my tool box so the real work can begin.
    2 points
  7. Driver inner fender done, passenger pod fill panel in and hood ornament holes drilled.
    2 points
  8. There's a small port in the master that let's fluid return to the reservoir. I suspect it's plugged or restricted at the least. Binding at the pedal pivot may also be part of it.
    2 points
  9. I found that a set of "guide bolts" were helpful. These thread into the bell housing transmission mounting holes and guide the transmission as you lift it onto the guide bolts and then push it towards the engine. They take the weight of the transmission as your trying to push it forward. I think mine were 7/16-14 x 6 inch bolts. Cut the hex heads off and file/grind a pair of flat spots on them so you can use an open end wrench to turn them in and out. Know I used them on '49 B1B floor shift transmission with engine in truck. On my '49 plymouth suburban the engine was out of the car when I installed clutch and stubby transmission. Not sure how much room you will have under your '50. May need to remove front engine mount bolts and tip engine up in the front to give you more room between trans and floor pan to slide trans in. Regards
    2 points
  10. Yeah, my leak was coming from the counter shaft bore. I cleaned it well and sealed with rtv. No more leak. Thanks guys.
    1 point
  11. You trim down the portion that sticks in the port. The freewheeling Tony Smith has some info on his Facebook site
    1 point
  12. VINTAGEPIC: saw this Dodge on the FB
    1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. My 48 had one headlight stamped nov 1948 on the back. I also assume it is the original. I have it stashed too and put 2 new ones in.
    1 point
  15. ...hey, that would work if you're making a scale model of something. 😂
    1 point
  16. if you are addressing the OP/thread starter, realize the thread is 7 years old, and the last activity, until yesterday, was 7 years ago.
    1 point
  17. The trippe Lights were made inthe Senior and also Junior product lines. The Senior Lights were used on the bigger cars of the 1920's thru 1930's. These were the cream of the driving lights. When also going to a quality car show look at the big cars such as the Packard's, Lincolns and every notice that they have a large driving light right in the middle of the front bumper and that there isa rod that is connected to the light. These are called Pilot Ray lights. These light will pivot as you make a turn into a corner or a side street so that you have light to see wre your are turning. There was a rod that connected to the drag link and when turning the steering wheel right or left the Pilot Ray light would move in that direction. This was the precursor to the idea that Tucker had for his third headlight in the grill, it was designed to move in the direction of the steering when turned. My Senior light are stationary lights just like fog lights but these are 8 inch lens and spread a beam to light up the roadway at night. These lights if you look an Ebay are not cheap they range in price from $1500 to $2500 for a quality set that is ready to put on your car. If you ever go to Hershey in the Fall for the AACA swap meet and car show you will see these lights on cars. The parts for these are expensive. They even had a special wrench that had knurls or groves to tighten the mounting bolt that hlds the light onto the upright bracket. This little tool is not cheap it sells for around $125-150. And to answer someone else question this is not a joke and also not a scam. I only post information that is correct and just thought other cars owners might be interested and to let everyone know that there are still good buy's to be found, just have to be at the venders site early so as the saying goes the Early Bird gets the worm. For MoPar car owners the correct headlight bulbs, seal beams, from 1949-1956, stil using 6 volt systems, the correctbuld that was used is the Autolite Bullseye beam bulb and not the standard 6v 6006 replacement bulb. During the 1940 -56 every headlight was still manually aimers against a white wall and the car was positioned 25 feet from the wall. In 1956 approx they came out with the BEAR headlight aiming machne and the headlight bulbs then had the three tits or gismos to aim the lights. I did a presentation at the National Desoto club several years ago with all of this information and most of the members did not even know what headlight were to be installed on their cars. I have even found that the AACA judges and there judging manual does not even have this information and I have sent them this information but they have not changed their judging criteria. Car from the 1940-1948, Mopar and also others would have used a headlight number 4030 and also would not have the aiming tits. The first picture is the Autolite Bullseys sealed beam. The 2nd and 3rd picture is the 4030 bulbs and note no aiming tits these bulbs were used from 1940-48 on the MoPar cars and Trucks Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  18. UP of MI can get pretty dark out by the lake. Summer trips up there are magical on the beach with friends, beers and a campfire.
    1 point
  19. That tends to back up what Ken was saying. I think you'll be ok, but a close comparison of the old vs new before installation would cinch it. Use a square to measure the two, distance from mounting face and height from the same bolt hole?
    1 point
  20. I doubt Whitepost could supply or replace the diaphragm. The diaphragm's and base mount were sold as a complete assembly...no separate parts from MoPar. This is what the leaky situation probably will be....there is a very strong spring in that vacumn chamber.... Once the 1/2" nut in the hole of the outer cover and the 12 screws holding the diaphram are removed....those parts are likely to go flying. Use two 2" long safety screws to control the cover and diaphragm's gradual release off the shifter rod.
    1 point
  21. Of course. I did say I was going to write up a detailed guide. That takes good pictures. Maybe read the post before you start laughing next time. No, I don't need them today, but who knows when I'll need them in the future. 65 year old brain cells don't get better with time I've heard.
    1 point
  22. Anti-seize compound on the hub/wheel centers and light coat on the wheel to hub meeting surface for me. Some recommend on the threads too, and I've done that, but you need to modify the torque specs with such well lubed threads. Might break a stud or bolt. It lasts much better that oil, and is intended for that use.
    1 point
  23. I think this year's eclipse is being touted so much because the moon is closer the Earth than other recent ones, so there will be more of the sun blocked out / bigger shadow on the planet. I'd say it's not something I'd go out of my way for, but I don't have to. It's coming to me this time. Weather permitting, I'll hang-out on the deck with a six-pack and "experience" it (not even gonna try to look directly at it, even with a welding helmet, I'll watch the shadows, if there are any). I'm just amazed at how many people are predicted to be here, and how there is no way this area can be expected to handle it. We can only hope/assume everyone coming here knows there's already not much here. The locals speak in hushed tones about a Phish concert here in the County several years ago that completely shut the County down for two days, and there were only "thousands" of extra people. No gas, no groceries, no parking, no movement, nothing, just people everywhere. I-95 was a parking lot for 25 miles from the border (yeah, yeah, that's normal in some places, but sometimes up here you can drive on it for 60 miles and not see another car, if there's three cars between you and the horizon, traffic is heavy).
    1 point
  24. They are pretty much the same so long as they are from the small six line, of the period design, diameter, and use the same size spine out of the transmission.
    1 point
  25. I did the same for my Chevy, only I slotted the ends with a hacksaw so I could use a screwdriver.
    1 point
  26. If the master cylinder is working and no leaks why not add a return spring. I would mount it at the push rod pin. Take a look at the clutch return spring and see how it is mounted...
    1 point
  27. I have the same master cylinder in your car as in my 39 Desoto. Had a very similar issue. One day the brakes would work then the next day not and then could pump up the brake. then went to the floor. Decided to remove the floor pans, pulled the MC. Already had a spare rebuild kit and rebuilt the entire MC. Cleaned the two holes inthe resevoir. Bleed the MC on my bench and installed the MC back in the car and had good brakes. Next day working at my bench I looed at the pressure release valve that sits at the very front on the MC and then noticed a vey small slit in the rubber part of the valve. Also do not play with the piston push rod or turning it in or out. So this value permits the fluid to move out of the MC and also return but when there is a slit inthe rubber you get a very low pedal. Suggest that you rebuild the MC. i know it is a pain to get it out of the car but if all else fails then this is your only option. Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  28. A source for a leather wheel cover that I used for the TR6 is Wheelskins. It is custom cut for a particular wheel and I was impressed with the quality and fit. It has been in service for three years and looks as good as new. Wheelskins It appears they can make about any size cover, just need to supply the dimensions of the wheel. The TR6 wasn't listed in their stock but the cover they made per my measurements fit perfectly.
    1 point
  29. Just hope I get one of the "good" 737's! (YIKES)
    1 point
  30. This parts car looks better than some people's "project" cars 😅
    1 point
  31. Thank you for the feedback 😃 Absolutely not. It is a very tight fit, the strip was cut leaving a good 1/4" gap, when hugging the wheel, so that it could be stretched conforming to the exact surface shape. It feels basically like a regular leather steering wheel.
    1 point
  32. I am not very good in physics, but suspect that when two bodies collide, regardless of whether only one or both of them are moving, they experience similar amount of impact. The collective force is basically split 50/50. If the other car had a plastic bumper, it could've also bounced back hiding plenty of damage underneath. That looks like a good parts car, congrats!
    1 point
  33. Do you have a new harness kit? If not, YnZ wiring is in California and speaking from personal experience their kits are good. Kit comes with very good instructions and are easy to install. Personally, I would go that route rather than pay someone else.
    1 point
  34. GRRRR! 🥵 ...... I will see, I think @kencombs is correct in the oil pump failed. It does have a spun rod bearing I'm going to bet money on that. You would think if the oil pump failed going 80 mph down the freeway, the oil light would come on, the rod then would start knocking, then the hammered bearing would spin. What happened was, the bearing spun causing the motor to have to work harder, then the rod started knocking, then the oil light came on .... It is a mystery. This is the motor I'm pulling out and it did run perfect .... I'm still guessing it has 80K-100K miles on it .... these motors easily go 300K miles with some maintenance. Just looking at the heat shield says something about mileage. Here is the engine I'm installing, they claim it has 135K miles on it .... It will clean up fine, there is no oil leaks on it just years of dirt from sitting on a shelf. Looking at the heat shield wants me to say .... she been rode hard and put away wet. .... The idler pulley is shot and needs replaced .... I just question now if it really is 135K miles on it. ..... They had another with 150K on it for $100 less .... I paid up and bought the lower mile engine. All I can do is hope & pray. I have all new hoses, water pump, coil, plugs, plug wires, crank sensor, cam sensor I'm using my intake and TB on it ..... All I need is a good engine to start with ..... and hope it goes well this time ..... you never know when dealing with used engines. I still plan on total disassemble of the old engine and rebuild if I can .... keep it around for a spare ..... I should be pretty good at swapping engines in this car by then
    1 point
  35. 1) check for leaks below each wheel cylinder and master 2) bleed the brakes (unless you are already set on changing things) Also, while you are at it, drive the car for a couple of miles and verify whether or not all of the wheels (disks) are approximately the same temperature. And please stop driving with improperly operating brakes
    1 point
  36. I saw an add for Modello Turbo that interested me. I sent a picture of my 46 P15 and they replied with a sample line drawing. I had them eliminate the spotlight and antenna, and this is what I went with. 27” wide, 16” tall, $118 delivered from Turkey, took 13 days from start to receiving today. I’ll probably white out the hanger bracket with touch up paint. I like it but the problem is I have an idea for a perspective of a 47 Dodge truck and it means more stuff, I have enough stuff. They are neat and affordable though. The shadow is from my lighting in the shop, it sets out 1/2” from the wall. A flash picture works better. But that’s on my PC with a digital camera. You get the idea. Rick D.
    1 point
  37. Heck, I think 55 is too fast, I drive 45... 😋
    1 point
  38. We had a very pleasant, mild winter so there was only a few wet weeks that I left the Plymouth cooped up. Back in January a local college kid spotted and photographed my car parked streetside.
    1 point
  39. In a Google search, type D6M1 2146357 carburetor. Other carburetor that may work E6U2. The eBay carb is missing a throttle piece, but you can use the one off of yours. Some of the price’s I’ve seen, $267 delivered is a deal. It has the electric dash pot and what looks like a kick down switch. Rick D
    1 point
  40. On a roll I guess. This is one way to reduce the cost a bit. Drops on elbow and reduced tubing. That stuff is about $1/ft, so not much savings really. On all of these, there are details for the throttle I haven't added yet.
    1 point
  41. Got my new parts in today. MUCH better design, if I do say so myself
    1 point
  42. Love that shiny black. Nice paint job.
    1 point
  43. Look at the centre of the clutch hub. It may say engine side or front. Etc. Mine had a front and back side that was to be installed properly for the clutch to work. Pull all the spark plugs so you can easily turn the flywheel by hand. When mounting the pressure plate don’t tighten two screw tight then move around to tighten two more. Apply equal pressure to all mounting bolts equally. Torquing in steps. A clutch alignment tool makes the job a lot easier. It lines the disc up. However I found a spare tranny input pinion was even better. It worked awesome to line things up. Yes, now is the time to also replace the throw out bearing. I agree with what was said above about cleaning up the flywheel.
    1 point
  44. Never replaced a clutch on a flat 6 Plymouth,but have on other old cars,and I can tell you that you need to take a really good look at the flywheel to see if it has grooves worn into it (scored) before replacing the clutch. If it does,take it off and take it to an automotive machine shop to have it resurfaced. If you don't,you will have sentenced your new clutch to an early death. Not 100 percent necessary,but if it were ME,I would also replace the throw-out bearing while I have it apart. Doesn't cost that much,and I see it as cheap insurance because it is a real pain in the butt to have to take your car apart again to keep it from sounding like you have a rod knocking. Do a job once,do it right,and be done with it so you can move on to other things.
    1 point
  45. Thursday I bought a gallon paint stripper to prep the van box with. I used it Thursday and Friday...no problems, worked quick and easily removed the paint. Today, results is a bit varying. I have to use two coats to strip the paint as with this rainy day...the product seems to dry quickly whereas before on a nice sunny day it stayed wet. Strange stuff, I apply one more light coat to clean the panel of all residue. Now the killer, the panel is flash rusting immediately. Now of course it is raining today but I am inside. I have to do an immediate wipe with phosphoric to check the flash rust. The days before were still quite humid and would have expected a bit of flash then. Am thinking to finish this side and let the big dog sleep till the rain passes. Anyone else ever see immediate flashing of the panel with rust. This is Jasco stripper, seems all the stripper product formula have been changed of late and this one is actually a water clean up solvent. Soon as it hits water it jels and balls right up. I bought Jasco as my other normal brand was not available in a jelly like semi paste that would stick to vertical surfaces.
    1 point
  46. Agreed. Check the wheel cylinder and lines first. Just replaced a wheel cylinder on mine yesterday. As far as the MC goes the special tool is for bench bleeding and it makes life easier when bleeding the whole system. When I do an MC I pull it apart hone the cylinder wall and when I put it back together, put the MC in a vice, cap the ports and fill with fluid. Then using short 1-2 inch strokes on the pedal lightly pump the MC till no air is coming out in the reservoir. This gets rid of 99% of the air and the rest will bleed out with the main bleed of the system. This vid should help with a lot of your questions. Joe Lee
    1 point
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