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  1. 7 points
    here are a few photo's I took.......
  2. 6 points
    It was great to see DollyDodge at the bbq. It was inspiring to see the meticulous effort used in preserving such a beautiful old truck (and just a couple more payments befor it’s his). I hope he will make the effort to make the trip again. If not, maybe a trip to Bishop and a night at the hotel Winnedumah in Independence.
  3. 6 points
    Thanks to everyone at the picnic for such a great day. I had a wonderful day, and met so many nice people. I enjoyed the BBQ a great deal, an amazing amount of wonderful food. Thanks for all the help unloading and loading Dolly. I will post more pictures, but first I have to reduce thier size and will do that tomorrow. Dolly and I left Bishop at 3:15 AM and got home at 8:30 PM, it was a grand day. Dolly loves her trophy!
  4. 6 points
    What an awesome time!!!! Good weather, good friends, good food and GREAT vehicles Sadly, going back home to the rain tomorrow.... oh well at least I have a sun burn Here is a little "wish you were here" pose to all who couldn't make it this time from myself, Mark, Tim, John T. and Jeremiah's arm...
  5. 5 points

    Been a while: My '49 Coronet

    Been awhile since I have been here ( life is just too busy) so thought I would show you what I have been up to. I know it is not everyones "cup of tea" but I built it my way. In the style of a 60's mild traditional custom. The only drivetrain mod has been the addition of a t5 5 speed. Here are some pics. Currently building a 1954 Plymouth Plaza Wagon too.
  6. 5 points
    Maybe ( in a perfect world ) there are a dozen New Yorkers in the parking garage and you just got into the wrong one !
  7. 5 points
    I love Tim and Steph's PUG....I mean COE. AND...glad to see last year's evidence made the journey with "Brendt" and Julie. Ooops, I mean Brent.
  8. 5 points
    ok here is my last post on the "Q" this year (no promises ) I think 48D got a little bored after the BBQ was over a gave a few of us a ride in his truck...... he would probably still be driving if he hadn't ran out of gas. LOL sure was fun, then he gave GGdad1951 a ride thanks again 48D and bride! you sure know to make everyone feel welcome and at home.
  9. 5 points
    That was fun. When's the next one?
  10. 4 points

    Great Race

    Hi..l had mentioned our 34 Plymouth in a previous thread but recently uncovered some buried information...l will share it with you after a brief forward... l acquired the car in 1964 from my grandfather...he had been using it as a storage container...l almost allowed the car to suffer a similar fate but some high school kids and the Great Race intervened in 2002...now here we are in 2018 and l see the same scenario slowly developing again...what follows is a transcription of what l wrote for the Great Race in 2002.. The woman who owned the car was Mabel Payne. She lived in Glendale on Louise St across the driveway from my mother and Grandmother. In 1936 my grandmother relocated to Armstrong Ave in Los Angeles and Ms Payne and the Plymouth accompanied her. Ms Payne passed away in 1942 and my grandmother "inherited" the Plymouth. I remember riding in the car with Grandma...l couldn't see out of the windshield but l can clearly remember the beautiful oval instrument panel and her wrinkled arthritic hand on floor gearshift. Grandma passed away in 1958...l was 10 years old. The car sat in the garage...we would go to visit Grandpa and l would go out and sit in the Plymouth. I pestered my father incessantly about the Plymouth... he finally relented and one day he and l made the trip from Whitter to West LA to maybe see if we could talk Grandpa out of the Plymouth. Negotiations were successful and we towed the car with Dads homemade tow bar out to Whittier. The winter of 64-65 was spent in the garage.. I knew next to nothing about what we were doing but l had read and re read an old copy of Automotive Essentials by Ray F. Kuns for hours and hours in anticipation of the big day when we would be putting the Plymouth on the road. One day Dad said Ok we're going to rewire the whole car from headlight to taillight. I said "What for, the wires look ok to me" He said "Take out all the wiring and don't cut or break anything" Ok fine. He then presented me with a wiring diagram which l had no idea where he got it and said "Look at the picture and follow it, it's not that hard.. No new harness, no schooling, just do it.. I began by going to the auto parts store and buying 5 or 6 spools of different color wire. I bought the braided although the plastic insulated was available l thought the braided looked more like what l had taken out. I learned to solder the terminals..Crimp ons were available l think but we didn't have a crimping tool and the solder terminals were much cheaper. Then came the brakes and l have never struggled with a mechanical job before or since like l did with those brakes. Dad said we'd start with the wheel cylinders.. He sent me to the store for wheel cylinder kits and paint thinner and emery cloth. The fronts were easy..just take off the big nut in the center and the drum pulls right off... But the backs...l quickly found out they're not the same.after hours and hours of sweating, prying.. dad said" ok loosen the big nut but only a turn or two"..he then got out his BIG sledge and hit the end of the axle so hard l thought it would come out the other side..."ok try it now" I cleaned and cleaned and ran that emery cloth through the cylinders, installed the new seals and filled the master with fluid and was feeling pretty good about my developing auto skills until l got in the car and pushed the brake pedal to the floor. I must have pushed that pedal a thousand times...to the floor. When Dad got home that evening he informed me about a process called "bleeding the brakes" He said to get in the car and listen for his instruction. "Down...up...down...up..." As if by magic, after a few minutes of this we had brakes.. There is a lot more stuff to tell but you know what it is...the same stories you could tell too.. Now to prevent the old Plymouth from returning to its roots as a storage container ,through a truly interesting chain of events.. we may have the opportunity to have it accepted in an automotive museum.. Just wanted to share.. Tom
  11. 4 points
    Another excellent day picked by Tim...don’t know how ya do it buddy! You and Steph did another great job along with the team of buds that get you set up every year! ...and I finally got an award after six years! I feel so privileged and would like to thank the academy! Ha! I got more stuff I can leave layin around up there if you want!...thanks again for babysitting ol Red for me....actually, this could get me motivated to get the ol Flathead back to life and drive ol Blue up to #12.... guess we’ll see! Hope y’all Enjoyed the brisket as well! Maybe next year it will be some smoked pork...great job all around and Thanks again! Will be looking for more pics!
  12. 3 points

    Frame, dirty, clean, painted

    The corner has been turned as I have gotten my 53 B4C frame cleaned and painted. My friend decided to have a car sandblasted and offered to have my frame done at his shop at the same time. The mobile sandblaster actually used a dustless system with glass and it made the metal actually sparkle. After cleaning I found a cross member had some hidden rust damage so it was removed, patched and will be bolted back on. I then painted por-15 and am really happy with the results. When I get it back to my garage I can actually start putting parts back on instead of taking them off! Here are some pics of the frame from dirty to clean to painted. (by the way for you sharp eyed people, some repair work was done on the frame in the past as the driver's side running board supports had the rivets removed and replace with bolts - they will be put back on later along with the cab supports and cross members you see missing in the pictures)
  13. 3 points

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    Hello, I would recommend that you sit down and read a copy of my post of many years ago. The fluid couplings work by the velocity of the fluid pushing the internal fins. They do not work passed on any pressure or on the viscosity of the oil. Also, if you do not have a dashpot in working order the car will stall often when coming off of a stop sign. In addition to all of that, I ran across a Chrysler tech note that said that a fluid coupling should not be left engaged for longer than 5 minutes at idle. So, if you are stuck in a traffic jam, put it in neutral until the traffic starts to move. *************** Technical Note on MOPAR Fluid Couplings (Fluid Torque Couplings are NOT covered by this Technical Note. Copy/Publish at will so long as you copy the entire note.) By James Douglas – San Francisco Having run several types of oil in MOPAR “Fluid Couplings” over the years and heard many recommendations, I decided to see if I could approach the issue of what lubricant to use in one of MOPAR’s Fluid Couplings by a more scientific method. As is well known, Chrysler instructed all owners to use “MOPAR Fluid Drive Fluid” only in their Fluid Couplings. Problem is, MOPAR stopped making it decades ago. My first stop was Chrysler Historical. After a month of looking, I was told that they do not have any of the original engineering information as to the specifications of the fluid. Then I headed off into internet land to hunt down anything I could find on the subject from ORIGINAL sources. I managed to find an original Chrysler Question and Answer sheet from 1939 about fluid drive from Chrysler Engineering. In it they stated: “…The proper fluid is a low viscosity mineral oil, which also servers to lubricate the bearing enclosed in the coupling. The pour point is such that the oil will pour at the lowest anticipated temperature, and has no corrosive effect on the steel parts of the unit.” All well and nice, but not enough to figure out exactly what they used as fluid. Later in the same document they talk about the types of metal used and the carbon-graphite seal. Hum, carbon-graphite seal. I did some more digging for a few months and turned up a can of unopened original MOPAR Fluid Drive Oil. An analysis of that oil, and some more literature I ran across, stated that the original fluid was a pure-base mineral oil with a Saybolt Viscosity of between 100 and 150. The fluid had a Viscosity Index of greater than 80. The fluid had anti-foaming and anti-oxidation additives. It specifically did NOT have any seal swelling agents as these can attack the carbon-graphite seal and the copper in the bellows. This last specification eliminates most modern transmission fluids. After finding several formulas to convert Saybolt Viscosities to Kinematic Viscosities, it appears that the best match to the original specification is ISO 22 or ISO 32 oil. However, the ISO 22 is just below 100 Saybolt and the ISO 32 is much higher than 100 Saybolt. Based on a period (c.1947) Lubrication Industry article on fluid couplings that had the following admonishment: “Contrary to popular supposition any attempt to use a higher viscosity fluid would actually reduce the torque transmitting ability of the coupling since torque-transmission is dependent upon a high circulation of fluid between the impeller and runner and is not caused by any viscous drag between the two.” During my continued research on the history of the Fluid Coupling, I ran across the fact that the original company that licensed the fluid coupling technology to Chrysler is still in business and still making fluid couplings for industrial applications. After a couple of weeks of digging, I found a senior engineer from that company that would have a long technical talk with me on fluid couplings. In essence, he agreed with the period information I quoted above. He added that the lowest viscosity oil that would still provide for bearing lubrication is the one to use in theory. However, he did say that unless the fluid coupling bearing has been replaced and is know to be very high quality then err on the heavy side viscosity wise. Just don’t over do it, he stated. I was also told that normal hydraulic fluid does not have large amounts of anti-foaming agents in them as they usually do not have large amounts of air in the systems to foam in the first place. A fluid coupling is only filled to 80% and as such has lots of air in it. Therefore, when looking for fluid coupling oil, one must look for an oil that is a “Circulating Oil” which has a lot of anti-foaming additives in it. I was also informed that the additives tend to have a shelf life in the can, or in use, of 5 to 7 years and it should be changed at that time. I was also told that the couplings are actually somewhat permeable and water vapor will work its way into and then back out, when hot, of a steel fluid coupling. Very little amounts, but apparently is does go on. I was also told to never use engine oil or ATF as both would cause problems in the long run. Based on the research and discussions I have come to the conclusion that ISO 32 hydraulic oil with the proper additives and VI (Viscosity Index) above 80 is a suitable replacement for the original MOPAR fluid drive fluid. ISO 22 would be a better exact match, but only if the quality and condition of the bearing is know in a particular coupling. The oil I have identified that meets the specification, with a higher general viscosity to deal with the age of the bearings, is: Mobile DTE light circulating oil ISO 32. This oil is available at Granger. I have run this oil for about six months in San Francisco city traffic as well as up steep mountains on very hot days. The coupling works well. I have noticed, and other car people have as well, that the car seems to move out from a dead stop to 10 MPH better with the fluid. Only a before and after session on a dynamometer would tell for sure, but I feel that it moves out much faster. Classic car owners are advised to use this information at their own risk. I am not a fluid coupling engineer, a bearing engineer, or a lubrication engineer. I have done my best to find out what was in the original MOPAR Fluid Drive Fluid. This effort is in essence industrial archeology and should be carefully considered prior to use. As a post scrip in 2014. I ran across and old Gyrol book that talks about the filling of the fluid couplings. In short, how much you fill it affects the torque-stall curve. Chrysler set that by the position of the hole in the bell housing. However, if one is to fill it a little less or a little more one can change the curve. Do so at you own risk and never fill it past 90% so it has air in it to compress less you blow the thing up!. James Douglas San Francisco
  14. 3 points

    Another cunning mod...

    OK, so I'm rewiring the D20 and the dash has no idiot lights. I wanted repeaters for the indicators, because the relay is very, very quiet, and I wanted an oil pressure and ignition warning, as well as main beam. Five simple lights, and nowhere to put them... So, this is a cheapo exhaust tip. It will become a polished stainless steel housing... Back to Autodesk to design a display and bulb holder: And an hour on the 3D printer... Cut the exhaust tip to the right profile... Fit the light holder: A bit of trimming to do still, but it should work...
  15. 3 points

    1953 Dodge 'coupe' truck project

    You're a gifted man Dav......time to add to your abilities....time to put another feather in your cap.....time to buy a paint gun and learn the ways of Automotive Pigment. Fill a pint, point and shoot. Happy to help mate. 48Dingo
  16. 3 points
    You have to respect a man who rolls in wearing his cover-alls and drinks the champagne of beers (old school long neck) . Mr. Bosker is a scholar and a gentleman.... and the owner of a beautiful truck
  17. 3 points
  18. 3 points
    Yes John, I drove the Panoche Creek road through the hills from Mendota to San Juan Baptista, which includes Holister. I drove that decades ago, it is a beautiful, interesting road. I love back roads, so much more to see. Thenpic shows driving through a gap and headed into a beautiful valley, fun. And yes, that is a tow truck in the bottom scene, I needed some assistance the last 40 miles of my 360 mile road trip. AAA provided the ride. Problem, electrical, will fix it off course. I drove the truck nearly every day for the past six weeks to shake down any problems, yet . . . .
  19. 3 points
    Some of my favorites.... Ted's '36 pickup from La Honda, CA (right...a '36?) Mark's very nice '50 Plymouth sedan. And DD's dash with restored gauges and custom tach.
  20. 3 points

    1953 Dodge 'coupe' truck project

    I guess that I finally reached breaking point as I had the (unfinished) 'Pop' coupe truck brought home today. I’ve had constant ‘chats’ with the Panel Beater over the past year of how I seemed to be receiving ridiculously high bills from them yet very little work seemed to be getting done. It is really sad when you trust someone, who you think has the knowledge and skills to attend to a high quality rebuild in a timely manner, and then you find that they have just been doing what little they need to do in order to drag out time to get as much money from you as possible from their hourly rate. I have already established who will be finishing the project off for me, but the Pop truck can rest in my shed with some of his friends for now.…
  21. 3 points
    The Coronet made it to the BBQ! It was a blast meeting with everyone. I look forward to next year with a new project! Greg
  22. 3 points
    I did a very quick count by twos just before the group broke up. I stoped a 56, so very possibly 70 + attendees. Names with faces? God! Since He can number the stars, He should be capable. Quick pictoral of my week end: barn back road drive, San Juan Baptista = 150 miles; Clements BBQ = add 150 miles; home, night scene, = add 145 miles. Great weak end!
  23. 3 points
    From the looks of things, had I been there the photographer would have had to switch from a wide-angle lens to a panoramic lens . Genetics, father time, good food and old Mopars seem to be having the same effect on the majority of us.
  24. 3 points
    ok, who is going to assign the names to go with all these faces.........
  25. 3 points

    Show your tools.

    I found these a few years ago in a closed tire shop. Dynatrue tire truer and Atlas "Tune In" on car balancer. They were going to be sold for scrap. Of course I had to save them.
  26. 3 points

    Show your tools.

    This morning I drove my wife to the city. She wanted to shop. As we seldom shop together, I headed off to find something of interest to me and remembered reading in yesterday's paper of a sale,(someone selling assorted tools out of a garage in the industrial area). The sale had been on for a couple hours when I arrived. Speaking with the fellow having the sale, I was a bit late arriving and there wasn't much left. Apparently he bought the contents of a garage belonging to an elderly gent who was entering an assisted living facility. I was sorry I hadn't arrived earlier , but I did buy this tripod bumper jack . He was asking $10.00 for it. It is a MoPar jack, still had the tag on it. In marker pencil on the jack, the number 1710284 with price $9.95.- I'm thinking maybe early 1950's? I like this type of jack and have used them often.
  27. 3 points
  28. 3 points
    I drove some 300+ miles today enroute to the BBQ. First I drove back roads through the foothills to the west of home to San Juan Baptista to possibly pick up a VW Thing frame. I bought it but determined it was too large a load for my truck. That was about 140 miles. Then from there to Tims was another 160 miles. That was a much lager day than I had imagined. The lad pics are of the road through the hills, the church near Hollister, CA, the view from the hill where the frame is. I arrived at Tims around 8:30, 12 hours after leaving home.
  29. 2 points
    Richard Cope

    1939 Plymouth Coupe

    Hi I have a 1939 Ply Business Coupe, all stock. It was restored body off about 8 years ago. For safety currently in the process of upgrading front brakes to disk and change to dual master cylinder. Also considering adding a Mitchell's overdrive 1000 with a push / pull lever. Any one had any experience with this set-up? Two gear ratio's are offered: 26% and 36%. I live in N.J. , basically flat. Need the over drive when I run on intestates. The car will currently run at 50 - 55 mph comfortable and 60 for short periods however engine is starting to get tight and wouldn't want to run at that speed long. Inorder to keep up with traffic, would like to run 60 - 65 for 10 to 20 miles. Any thoughts on which ratio would be best. I contacted Gear Vendors several times, however have been unable to even get dimensions of their product. Figure if they won't send me dimensions, if I ever had problems they wouldn't be much help. Appreciate your thoughts. Regards, Richard
  30. 2 points
    Leaf spring rubber bumper Today I changed the tires and got a look onto the rubber bumpers which are mounted on the front leaf springs. These were completely gone when I did restore my PT81 four years ago. Back then I wanted to order new ones at Bernbaums but they told me they don`t have any on stock and new ones are only available in six month or seven, maybe in nine. Repos which I saw on other providers sides (for my type of truck !) had a completely different dimensioning as my originals. Since I anyway did lower the truck a bit, I was looking for other ones on swap meets and the www. Nothing, too large, too small, too different, pretty expensive … Some days later in the hardware store, looking for something for the house. Had a bit time and still that rubber thing in my mind. Walked through every single shelf row. Garden section, domestic things, sanitary, tools … stop, what`s that ??!!! Rubber hammers. A lot of rubber hammers ! And in different sizes ! And even cheap, 2 to 4 € each. Took some, cut them into pieces, fabricated two plates of stainless metal sheet, fixed the rubber pieces with a silicon adhesive to them. And they do their job perfect, not too hard, not too soft. No month-long waiting, no longer searching, no shipping, no taxes, … Sometimes it is so easy, but you don `t see that the source is so close to you … (Pics shows the suspension without load, space is much closer between rubber and frame when the truck is standing on its wheels)
  31. 2 points

    1953 Dodge 'coupe' truck project

    I hear ya Dav....I just think, "If there was ever a guy who should paint..." It'd be you. You're a guy who cares about these old trucks and your eye for detail is outstanding! I realize it takes time to develop skills, but I believe you could fast track those skills better than anyone....so in the spirit of the American way of getting someone's resolve up...." I dare you...I double dog dare you!"...:D 48D
  32. 2 points
    Ever think about inserting the oil pump first and then the distributor? And if the distributor is not indexed correctly then remove the oil pump and the distributor and turn the oil pump until the distributor is correctly indexed? I believe this is covered in the service manual.
  33. 2 points

    1953 Dodge 'coupe' truck project

    You might give it a layman's paint job, then put the truck in an abandoned building, set the building on fire and thereby give it a heat treated original patina finish! LOL Just last week I drove mine, with such a finish, to a prestigious truck show and came home a theophy winner'!
  34. 2 points

    1953 Dodge 'coupe' truck project

    don't listen to him mate...leave the paint to those who like the look of a mask! Now the hammer and dolly...that I advise you learn.
  35. 2 points
    Sorry...I'd have to give it the boot...
  36. 2 points
    My Pleasure. over 50 years ago I had a gray 50 Dodge ( D36). they were still quite a common sight. I tried to unlock someone else's twin to mine. It was nearly dark and some beer was involved. But here is a "true" story. A fellow approached his pale blue 52 Chev . The muffler was hanging down so he got down and wiggled it. The whole works fell off at the manifold and in disgust he pulled the pieces off and threw the whole rusty mess into a ditch. He then got in and put the key in the ignition. Some of you will remember that Chevrolets used a novel sort of switch that had to be turned to lock and the key removed. Otherwise, if left unlocked, you did not need the key at all. This one was locked and as he tried to get it unlocked he realized that he was not in his own car ! He got out promptly, located his own car nearby , got in and drove away. Imagine the surprise the owner of the first car got when he climbed in, turned the key, pressed the button and the unmuffled engine started with a roar......... Given the nature of GM locks of that era , the guy was lucky his key did not fit the first car.
  37. 2 points

    water tube question

    Page 72 of my shop manual says " Care must be exercised when installing a new distributor tube to see that the front end of the tube is flared in a manner similar to the original installation. "
  38. 2 points
    I only got to talk to him a short while, but he's got stories. One of those guys that knows a lot but says so little. Respect.
  39. 2 points
    Everyone's seen one of these, or something like it, right? NOS ones are silly money: I know they can be repaired, but it's messy and it still might not work. This is the internals of a $15 Smiths electrical temperature gauge: Now this looks like it might just work... First, we need some 3D printed parts, so so here we go with Autodesk Fusion 360. 45 minutes later: A couple of 8mm holes for the terminal posts... Now we can start to assemble the meter: The dial is assembled to the support bracket: And there you have a 12V electrical temperature gauge for the Dodge...
  40. 2 points
    Here in Vancouver BC me and the wife have had our 47 dodge coupe out a coupe times this spring already ! The weather has been really sucky lately and I’m going threw withdrawals lol
  41. 2 points
  42. 2 points
    Merle Coggins

    '55 Dodge Pilothouse project

    VIN decoder at http://t137.com/registry/help/decode.php says it’s a ‘54 C-1-D6 1 ton truck.
  43. 2 points
    It looks like you drove right by my place here in Hollister Paul!
  44. 2 points

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    Pretty much all buttoned up with the exception of getting the gauge voltage lower. The Runtz or Ballast resistor are not getting me in the 6-8v range.
  45. 2 points
    I purchased this 1941 Royal from a gentleman in Yakima, WA in December 2016 and had it delivered to me in the Tampa area of Florida. I drove my 1941 Chrysler Royal from Tampa to Connecticut in May 2017. I drive it 2-3 days a week during the Spring, Summer, and Fall while I am in CT. When I attend car shows, it receives as much or more attention than restored muscle cars. Once I get the issue of the FluidDrive not holding the high range shift (possibly lack of adequate vacuum), I want to drive it to Hemmings Motor News in Bennington , VT for one of their Thursday night cruises. The car is all original and sorted out just enough to keep it on the road.
  46. 2 points
    Back on the road after about 4 months of upgrades!
  47. 2 points

    My new car accessories, I love it!

    You have to ride a motorcycle to understand why dogs ride around with their heads out of car windows...
  48. 2 points

    Need some help with my rear brakes

    Some rear brake backing plate and outer seal pic's...
  49. 2 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    TImes have changed.

    I can see the lawyers today lining up to sue the company....I installed a radio yesterday...instruction with the very poor translation to English and I quote..."do not pay attention to the road when adjusting the radio" talk about a liability statement....
  50. 2 points

    Golden years incidents

    You know you are on the shorter end of life when: