Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 06/18/2017 in all areas

  1. 9 likes
    This is an old farm truck I pulled out of a fence row in Colorado. An afternoon with a hose, soap, and some Mother's cleaner wax got me here.
  2. 8 likes
    Just purchased a 48 business coupe. Has 270 poly head with a fluid drive sitting in it right now. Plan on putting a 230 with a straight drive from a donor car in it soon. Wish me luck, It has the grill and all the chrome.
  3. 8 likes
    It's been a while. Moved and been driving the wheels off the old truck. It has been great! What a good little workhorse this truck is. No problem keeping up with traffic here anymore. Guess it just needed to be pushed hard and a bit of MMO to get the rings to re seat. I think I even startled some yoyo in a Tesla this morning when he was poking along in front of me. Too bad......wonder what he was thinking as my grille loomed close? For those of you who want to use one of these trucks as a daily driver.......It can be done without too many mods. Jeff
  4. 8 likes
    Thoughts on the 1937 -1939 Chrysler cars.... The 1937 Plymouth was advertised as the "ALL STEEL" car. This referred to the fact that they were stamping the roofs in solid sheet metal and getting rid of the rectangular vinyl insert that was found on 1936 and prior cars. If you take a good look at the 1939 Plymouth the only "flat" exterior body panels were the two vertical drop boards that go between the hood halves and the front fenders. Every other inch of the car has some king of curved or compound curved surface. As a result the 1939 Plymouth Coupes were considered "bulbous" with huge curved fenders, roof line and trunk lid. It seems the technical ability to stamp / press large panels of metal into extremely curvaceous body panels reached a crescendo with the 1939 Plymouth Coupe (and sedans to a lesser extent). As a result some people find the 39's overdone. They look almost cartoon like...and I love it. The 1940 and on redesign saw the bodies widen and the fenders shrink. The 1941 Plymouth might be one of the most balanced designs of the decade and is a poor mans classic. The point is that prior to 1940 the cars peaked in their curvaceous styling and "roundness", maybe a love it or leave it for some folks but none the less a beautiful exercise in design and technical abilities to produce an almost exaggerated larger then life statement. Over 30 years of ownership the 1939 Plymouth Coupe has had many small children literally run from their parents towards the car like it was a "cartoon" car in larger then life scale. Let me know what you think. Pictured below.......
  5. 8 likes
    · · For Decades I have listened to people talk about Flathead Mopar 6 Cylinder Engines in terms of intakes, what is the best carb configuration for their particular situation. Discussions on putting two carbs and those who claim to be sure that is too much carburation or that it will use to much fuel. Then every once in a while the discussion of 3 carbs comes up, and that almost always sparks the debate on how it would take a race motor to need it, or how the engine will bog, or run poorly. In the last 20 years with a good friend of the AoK boys coming across a huge stash of 2 barrel carter weber carbs which were designed for slant six engines, the discussion on utilizing a 2 barrel instead of two singles comes up. I just smile, but then I know that when the stash of 2 barrel carter webers were found, its finder handed once opened up a flathead mopar. Its amazing how a market can be created and how quickly – “this is the way to go” spreads like rapid fire, without as much as any background check into something. But 1st, let me go back to the 1st time I heard the discussion on multiple carbs vs a single multi-barrel carb, or but another way comparing that “old technology carter ball and ball vs a modern 4 barrel carb”.. It was about 45 Years ago that was the 1st time I heard someone in a conversation with my Grandfather and my Dad, suggesting they knew a lot about Flathead Mopars and were sporting a 4 barrel carb on a homemade intake. This gentleman had played with flathead ford v8s and had came across a Dodge 2 door sedan from the mid-50s. He was suggesting he had built the ultimate flathead Chrysler Engine and were one of those guys that whatever they had at the moment was just the best. Well after my Dad explain he had far from the ultimate flathead Chrysler, but his wife’s daily driver was good enough to kick his ass, Dad pulled out my Mom's pickup. It was sporting a bored out 265, with a cam, a factory dual intake and exhaust with a pair of carter ball and balls, an a833 4 speed tranny. After a little bit of fun that really wasn't much of a contest, licking his wounds sort of speak, Mr "Ultimate Flathead Chrysler" started down the road of excuses when Grandfather shook his head and cut him off at the pass. Grandfather like my Dad were automotive Engineers, and Grandfather literally knew more about Chrysler Flatheads than any person alive. Given he saw the very 1st flathead roll of the line in Windsor in 1935 and saw the last block cast in 1959 he had some pretty good credentials to give a lecture. What is explained in a few minutes was not only how the flathead engine worked, but why the engine this gentleman had came with only 1 carb. Most think that 1 carb was put on the engine and that it has sufficient carburation for the engine, and if it needed more Chrysler Engineers would have put more on. On a basic level that is true, but what engineering was building was an engine to a specific HP, torque and fuel consumption target and not to get the most out of the engine, make it as efficient as possible or even have it run to anything close to 100% optimum performance. By Optimum performance I am not talking maximum hp or maximum rpm. Grandfather then explained that in fact Chrysler faced with the need to meet a 5 ton truck specification for dump/plow trucks asked for by Canadian municipalities during the winter of 1950, had filtered to engineering in late 1950. They developed the 265 ci motor which was 3 7/16" bore and 4 3/4" stroke and have dual carbs and dual exhaust on them which is what was in Mom’s pickup. Few realize that that engine actually had more hp than any other engine on the market. I will attach the picture of the poster that was on Grandfathers office at the time. I gave it to George years ago. In any case you can see the hot v8 mopar had in 1952 was 133 hp and the flathead 6 had more hp. That engine and the fact it had a factory intake, immediately became a stock car favorite in the 1952 season, when Mopar dominated stock car racing everywhere it landed. In any case Chrysler didn't just put on a second carb on it because they needed more carburation. By then Chrysler already had Carter building Ball and Ball carbs from 85cfm - 425 cfm each and we now know they had a 625 cfm carter ball and ball single barrel carb if they needed it. The reason for two was the basic issue, some would call flaw, but Grandfather would call basic restriction to taking the engine to the next level. I say that folding back to the earlier point that Chrysler was building engine to a spec of "x" hp, "y" torque and "z" fuel consumption. The flathead 6 build by Chrysler has 3 Siamese intake ports, each of which feed two cylinders. Setting aside the exhaust for a second, and keeping in mind that an engine is really just a giant vacuum pump, putting 1 carb in the middle of the block, basically over the middle intake port feeding cylinders 3 and4, means that if all cylinders are the same in compression ratio and ability to create vacuum and suck in a fuel mixture coming from the carb, that cylinder 3 and 4 are going to get more fuel than the intake ports feeding cylinders 1 and 2 or 5 and 6. Yes Chrysler made intake modifications to help that, but they again were not trying to make the perfect engine, just have it meet specs required. Now if we add the exhaust component which depending on what year engine and what vehicle, has the single exhaust exiting at one of a few different locations. For this discussion lets say it exits at the back as does the post ww2 cars. What you find is as the cylinders push out exhaust there is almost no restriction or back pressure at cylinders 5 and 6, where there is a great deal of back pressure at cylinders 1 and 2. So here we have the most back pressure making it tough to push away the exhaust and actually the front intake port receiving the least amount of fuel. While the engine meets specs with no problem, its clear that if you can balance the exhaust, by having 3 exhaust cylinders exit through 1 exhaust pipe and the other three the same, you can better balance back pressure. We sort of glossed over the face that while there are only 3 intake ports, each cylinder does have its own exhaust port. Something that changed with the introduction of the slant 6, which had 6 equal intake runners each feeding a cylinder. Back to the flathead, if we can better distribute fuel to balance the opportunity for each of the 3 Siamese ports to get fuel, the better the engine will run. So if you were to take a big block 25 1/2" engine, and anyone of them, not just the 265 and put the factory dual carb and dual exhaust setup on it and then put on the appropriate carter ball and ball carb on it, it will gain hp, torque and improved fuel mileage. The reason is it runs more efficient. If you take it one step further putting 1 carb on top of each intake port, you can provide the optimum amount of fuel efficiency for the engine. Back to our 4 barrel friend, putting on a large carb just provides a further opportunity to over fuel the center siamese intake port. When he hammered the throttle it was actually not able to burn all of the fuel in the middle two cylinders and was “bogging” until it could gain enough RPM to use some of the fuel. When he was running against Mom’s pickup, it had more balanced back pressure, and a better distribution of fuel. Years later when we created the AoK triple intake, we placed the 1st on an almost rock stock 201 ci motor. It had been rebuilt stock, although required to be bored out 10 thou to clean up cylinders. With 3 of the smallest CFM carter ball and ball carbs on board, and headers made from a stock exhaust systems, the car ran smoother, had better acceleration and got 6 miles per gallon better highway mileage over the single carb and single exhaust. In the end, it is just a myth that you need some bored out and cammed up engine for 2 carbs and a full race motor for 3 carbs. The reason why Chrysler didn't run 3 carbs was simple. 1) The cost of 3 carbs was no inconsequential and 2) They could meet the HP, Torque and Fuel useage targets with 1 carb. The exception was when there was a time window where the dual carb, dual exhaust 265 ci motor was released, but with overhead valve v8 and Hemi's coming shortly after the multiple carb flathead life-cycle was short lived. There is a bit more it than that. I have glossed over a bunch of the engineering parts of why you don't just put a carb directly to each intake port, but I am sure you get the drift. Unlike a v8 where you might try and make carbs progressive because your feeding a intake plenum feeding a v8, either 2 or 3 carbs on the flathead 6 you want them to produce the exact same fuel. Its not progressive in terms of additional barrels or carbs, its progressive by pushing on the gas peddle. The key is making sure both or all three carbs are identical and then you want to have linkage that operates all of them the same. Its a common misconception that they must be hard to keep synced. We have engines with tens of thousands of miles on them with multiple carbs and are never adjusted. George Asche's 1929 Desoto that he has owned since 1950 likely has an unbelievable amount of miles on it and likely carbs only touched when George has done the engine over. I vehicles with 100,000 + miles on them and the linkage for the dual carbs have never touched. That has a lot to do with just how good Carter Ball and Ball carbs are.. We also get asked quite often about modifying the block to provide 6 intake ports, or using webers or other carbs, or running fuel injection. Dad and Grandfather with too much time on their hands as my mother would say, did modify a couple of engines to provide 6 intake ports. There were several intakes made including one with an 18" runner set on it, one with 6 side draft webers and one with modified hilborn fuel injection. At the end of the day, with various levels of success, nothing seems to outperform an Edmunds triple carb intake with riser blocks and 3 matched 1952-56 Truck carbs with some jetting changes. Of course, since then we have developed a couple of new cam profiles and of course or AoK triple which utilizes better and modern casting technology, as well as better flow bench testing and computer modelling. Have we thought about digging out the 6 intake port block that is still in Dad's shop, well yah we have, but that is another project and a blog entry for another time.
  6. 6 likes
    That is proud father of 70 year old truck that has new twin carbs. 99%complete. Need throttle springs and Dashman 2" carb spacers.
  7. 6 likes
    Wally; No there is definitely some items that need to be altered to use one of these trucks the way I have been. Gearing and brakes are at the top of the list. I went with a 3.55 ratio on the rear axle. Initially I thought it was too tall. But now that I have been really using it I would say it is spot on. The brake thing is a matter of what your local traffic conditions are like. Certainly drums would be fine if they are in tip top conditions and you use the truck in light traffic. I went with 4 wheel disc brakes and with the type of traffic, speeds and hilly conditions I face they are perfect. There are a few other details that are more than worthwhile when planning to use one of these trucks as a daily driver. Upgraded lighting....seat belts.....and good cabin insulation make it much safer and more pleasant to use. What doesn't need a lot of messing about with is the basic engine configuration, suspension or even the 6 volt electrics. People are blown away by the ride and comfort level of this truck. Not a day goes by when I don't get several thumbs up's or someone asking about it. If you take your time and put one of these trucks together carefully they will reward you with rock solid performance and reliability. They are well worth the effort. Jeff
  8. 6 likes
    This is a friendly warning to those of you who have got into the 'old car hobby' recently.You really need to check these cars out before you hit the streets. They are 60 yrs old or so and who knows what tey have been thru or what has been done prior to your ownership. Car might look shiny and all chromey, neet as a pin. Or it could be something that was recently dragged out of a ditch that's been home for the last ....??? Do yourself and all of us a favor and go over the front and rear suspension and steering. I say this because no matter what the PO told you, you just don't know what you don't know. I am going thru the front suspension on my '52. All was ok with the left front....got to the right front and found this...... This is the nut and pin that hold the lower control arm to the spindle. The nut is finger loose in this pic. Not good. So the message here is that just because you pour some gas into the carb, fire it up and go for a cruise, doesn't mean it is safe to do so. Suspension, steering and brakes......check 'em out before they check you out.
  9. 5 likes
    I'm not sure there is a correct way to do it. I start on passenger side and tighten the bolt until a heavy piece of paper will just slide between the drum and the lining right under the bolt. Then I'll tighten up the "T" bolt until the lower half of the drum rubs on lining. Then I'll tighten the upper half limiter until the paper just slides between the top half of the lining and the drum. Then I'll go back to the "T" bolt and tighten till the paper just slides between the lower half of the drum and lining. I'll paper check it everywhere and make little adjustments as needed then put the safety wire back on the passenger side bolt.
  10. 5 likes
    A bit of paint and a brush can cover and preserve with very little cost.
  11. 5 likes
  12. 5 likes
    Here are a few more pictures of the Belgian Dodge
  13. 5 likes
    I bought my first car in 1962 from my neighbor’s grandmother a 1937 D5 Dodge coupe. I still have it and put it back on the road in 2016 with several new technology features after setting for 43 years.
  14. 5 likes
    I'm gonna keep it stock . All my friends are telling me to drop in a v8 and automatic but I love the ol gal just the way she is!
  15. 5 likes
    RARE year I can take FEF out for a drive one day after my birthday. No snow left of note and a good solid day of rain to get the salt off the roads followed by 3 days of 60° weather...had the heater on tho....who knows how to tell?
  16. 4 likes
    As all of you know I collect the old Miller factory tools. A couple of weeks ago I received an email from Travis Hall and he informed me that he had several old miller tools that he would like to donate to my collection. These tools are to be used by the forum members that might need them to help with their cars or trucks. I would like to personally thank Travis for the donation and he has saved these tools from being put in the trash where no one would ever get to see or use them. Travis is a members of the P15D25 forum. Here is a list of the following millers Tools: C-745 rear axle outer seal tool for the 41 Mopar cars and up C3640 c3821 Driver and thimble worm shaft seal C3782 driver power steering pump shaft seal c3284 used on powerflite trans c355-7 part of the engine front end puller equpiment set Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  17. 4 likes
    Looking again at the first (OP) post, this is a really nice looking truck. the paint is in good shape, as least from the distance the photo was taken. Give 'er some love with cleaner wax. If you want the extra step, polishing (not rubbing) compound first. That's it. If this were my truck, I'd also paint the wheels, front bumper, and running boards to make it 'pop' just that extra bit, and turn the RWL tires around so you have blackwalls on the outside. Boom.
  18. 4 likes
    It also doubles as an explosion whistle port.....
  19. 4 likes
    I've posted this one before.....excellent coachwork.
  20. 4 likes
    Well spitfire it's a shame you're so far north but comparing a 218 or 230 to a 265 is a little hard to do but we've got a little flathead in our shop that might run with the king of the flatheads
  21. 4 likes
  22. 4 likes
    Another way to check wheel/tire straightness is to jack up front of car with tire just clear of ground and take a wood block and place at side of the tire and slowly rotate tire/wheel moving the block very close to the side of the tire. Does it move in or out away from block? If so put a straightedge higher up on block to hold against the wheel bead area of the wheel rim to see if the tire is the problem area or the wheel. OK,? Then move block just in front of the tire and rotate tire and make a center line scribe with a pointer of some point and see if tire run true and then also watch from the side to see if the tire runs out of round. Really only takes a minute or two. Repeat one wheel/tire at a time, front repeat steps on the rear. Less than 20 minutes total when the test is completed. Just helps with this easy/quick test before moving on to other Good ideas already posted. Best, DJ O
  23. 3 likes
    That's worth bonus points,I don't care who you are.
  24. 3 likes
    I went tubeless with my Diamondback radials over 7 years ago. Not even a slow leak.
  25. 3 likes
    One more close up shot. Once set it sets its not to glossy but not flat either.
  26. 3 likes
    Lets not bring that up! Next thing you know, somebody will have a hurt feeling and this will become a locked topic!
  27. 3 likes
    Let's add transmission swaps to this topic and see where it goes ... ! I have a daily driver that has a "fair" paint job that is over 30 years old. You could interpret it as a light form of patina, I guess. There's small rust spots here and there, and I've painted panels with rattle cans and had other panels painted in a shop when it was necessary. The truck was completely oxidized when i got it. I use just Meguire's cleaner wax about once a year and that's it. It removes oxidation and waxes at the same time. Perfect for a driver. It makes the truck look a lot better than when it's oxidized, that's for sure. I had primer spots for a while to cover some of the rust on the hood but couldn't stand it, so had the hood painted. The truck looks ok from 50 feet, there is no primer, and no huge rust spots. All just two colors of its two-tone paint job. one day this truck will be painted, to make it right, and preserve it properly, so it can start the clock on another 50 years of weathering.
  28. 3 likes
    I haven't posted a whole lot lately probably because I'm out enjoying the truck! Here's a couple videos from driving back from a cruise night (about 1.25 hours away from my house). When I left the house the weather was perfect. I got to the show and it started raining, and it rained the entire drive home. My windshield leaks pretty bad, so Saturday it has an appointment with a local shop to seal it better. I've also been playing with the speedometer. It seems to catch around 40 mph until around 50. It also bounces a lot. Last night I changed the cable and it acted different all together (not in a good way). I sent it out to have the mechanical parts checked out when I restored the truck, but it still isn't right so it will be heading back to them. Kevin did the gauge faces and the speedometer face. It still looks great and is holding up perfect! Its been few years since he did it now I think. I couldn't be happier with how they look! Out of curiosity last night, I swapped in a very nice original speedometer that I bought for $15 at a swap meet. The swap meet speedometer works perfect. Its smooth, doesn't bounce, and is accurate (minus the rear end ratio difference). Maybe I can make one good out of the both? Anyway, here are somewhat boring videos. P.S. - I'm really happy with the radio setup in the truck, it sounds great and works perfect!
  29. 3 likes
    For taking off the oxidation and grime, the Mothers polish and an old wash cloth works great and is much less work that a bunch of different sandpapers, Not to mention being a rubbing compound, much gentler on the 60 year old paint. That truck would really look nice with that green that is hiding under all of the years of abuse.
  30. 3 likes
    Three words! Boiled Linseed Oil. Preserve, protect, has a semi gloss sheen. Popular with antique farm implement and tool folks, and Antiquers too. Check you tube there are a couple bids. One even is a dodge truck.
  31. 3 likes
    I'm a hotrodder so the Bob Marley & Wailers running gear sounds o/k by me....lol.......that rear end setup looks good.....btw is the rear end a transaxle or just the diff?....that third member mount looks good...........oh........and I added 2" into each rear fender on my 1940 Dodge when I rodded it in 1973, gas welded and hammer finished the whole way....lol........andyd.
  32. 3 likes
    Age at which your child can drive your antique? I don't know, I'll be dead.
  33. 3 likes
    coat it with a good solution of water and coolant with proper rust inhibitor additives.
  34. 3 likes
    I know this is a photo of a photo but this was my trucks life for a while.
  35. 3 likes
    I owned a P4 sedan for thirty years from 1968 to 1998. At 54 400 miles I bored to .050 and ground the crank 010. new cam bearings and chain and used a later oil pump. A GOOD runner . A word of caution. Mark the oil cross over pipe before removing it. If you put it on end for end, the counterweight just kisses it , making a most alarming noise. The correct way does not look as neat as the wrong way but clears everything.
  36. 3 likes
    The Ultimate Art Deco Car - The Chrysler in Australia was pretty much the top of the tree in 1940. There were a few Imperials around in 1938/39 and they were trimmed similarly to mine. The TJ Richards version of the C25 had the 38/39 cabin with the 40 front dog house and rear guards (fenders) grafted on. Personally I think it looks better than the US version... TJ Richards records are pretty scarce, so I don't know exactly how many Chryslers were made here. At best there were about 160 of these - assuming all the bare chassis that left the factory came to Australia. I know of one other ex US embassy car in Melbourne, Victoria and I've seen a photo of one in Maroochydore, Queensland. The interior is trimmed with Art Deco style door panels and on the front seat back. The rear panels above the armrests had the same pattern stitched into them. The original seats are actually green leather with the same pattern stitched into them. The plaid is just a later cover. Unfortunately the leather is hard and has seen better days (and mice...) Rick
  37. 3 likes
    Full flow filter looks like this. Has a pressure relief relief valve in the tube in the center that will allow oil to pass if the filter element is plugged. A pipe plug must be installed to make it function correctly.
  38. 3 likes
    Nice looking Desoto. I notice your wheel chock. Your car has fluid drive. This means that there is not a solid coupling between the engine and the rear wheels so if you park on even a slight incline the car will roll even though the transmission is in gear. So in addition to your brake upgrades a working emergency brake is a must have deal. And you probably already know the emergency brake is located on the transmission tail shaft. If you do not have a service manual for your car it is a good investment to get one. They are available in both disc and hard copy. I prefer hard copy so I can keep it on my work bench.
  39. 2 likes
    I was fortunate to find my 36 Desoto for sale a couple of years ago....
  40. 2 likes
    I eventually sold the red one in this post on ebay. It went to a guy down in Florida. I think he uses it as a store front attraction. This truck was part of a Virginia estate. Soon after I bought a property in Southern Oregon....and what do I find on the property? Yep, another one! However, this one is not in as good as shape. It is a 5 window. It has a lot of the parts on the bed. Unlike the Virginia truck, this truck is rust free and the paint may be original I could sell it, but I would rather give it to someone that really wants it and is willing to put in the work to bring it back If you are interested, contact me.
  41. 2 likes
    I tell my dear wife, Libby that I have been playing with cars before I started playing with girls.............she thinks I'm joking............lol..........oops........WACK!.......sorry dear, yes dear, 3 bags?....yes dear will go & fill them right now..WACK!.........am going now...........andyd
  42. 2 likes
    I run since 1987 with a brazilian DFV,same type as Zenith 228.Never had problem.I bought this Carter B&B from ebay (united automotive remanufacturing)-Londonderry,New Hampshire.Thanks all members of this forum that advised me to buy this model.Regards.
  43. 2 likes
    Plymouth P15 bz cp is flat glass.....every piece in that car is flat glass....
  44. 2 likes
    Never mind I couldn't help myself lol Upon closer look I seen that the mounting bracket is actually color matched to the cab, so I decided not to paint it black. I also sent in for my build card so I'm looking forward to getting that.
  45. 2 likes
    Yup, breaking the guides in half is the way to get 'em out. You can just hit 'em with a cold chisel and a hammer and they'll snap. But - I like your surgical method with the cutting tool!
  46. 2 likes
    I registered my 52 dodge truck as such, no mention of collector, antique. Classic,etc. will do the same with my 53 Plymouth Suburban and later with my '39 Chrysler. I am putting a lot of work into these vehicles and intend to use them.
  47. 2 likes
    Went to Homer Alaska today with my sister-in-law and her husband. Their first time in Alaska. Mount Redoubt, an active volcano Cook Inlet outside of Homer The best pizza I've ever eaten Fat Olive Homer boat harbour Across the bay from Homer
  48. 2 likes
    I did not do that - it makes sense - I know it's something little like that. Here I go. If this works I will give you my grandson.
  49. 2 likes
    picture of the sister car to the 39 Chrysler is the 39 Desoto that has been HPOF certified. With Gracho sitting onthe front fender Rich Hartung
  50. 2 likes