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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Pouring down rain this morning. Flood watch in effect. Headed to the shop in the dark when out of nowhere a huge fallen pine tree is hanging into my lane. At 45 mph it hit the roof on the passenger side near the corner of the windshield. Was expecting broken glass and significant damage. Nada.....zip....nothing. Not even a scratch. Got to love that old Detroit Iron. I am positive an impact like this would have messed up a newer truck. And yet the only evidence is a few pine needles. And an elevated heartbeat..... Old Pilothouse trucks RULE! Jeff
  2. 7 points
  3. 6 points
    Brent B3B

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    2 of my B3/4 trucks
  4. 6 points
    Don't drive during winter here in Wisconsin but do get around during better weather. 1-Driving thru Metropolis IL, 2-Memphis, 3-Arrive Daytona, 4-Daytona Beach for the Turkey Run, 5-Talledega Speedway on the trip home. Also have some photos somewhere of the car at Operaland, Don Garlits museum, and in Daytona Speedway pits. 3700 mile trip, just my wife and my 48 P15, 440 powered.
  5. 6 points

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    These trucks are all great! Here are my 50 Meadowbrook and 50 Pilothouse truck. I love them both. Never a Dodge guy until I found that Meadowbrook years ago and I've been hooked ever since.
  6. 6 points
    Drove my 49 for a month while my kid was home from college. rain, shine, hail and a leaky windshield, added another 1000 miles to the clock... Need to revisit the vacuum wipers
  7. 5 points
    "DD," my 1942 DeSoto, gets driven at least three times a week for local errands. She is completely stock--including the semi-automatic fluid drive--and runs like a dream. I am working now on DD2--another 1942 DeSoto. This one has some engine modifications, including three carburetors and slightly higher compression. Also a 200R4 transmission. Otherwise, stock....
  8. 4 points
    I'm sorry if someone already posted this, but the photo is just amazing, as are others on the Petrel website. This tractor has been under the sea for 75 years! The Hornet was discovered a couple weeks ago at about 18,000 feet under. It's amazing how well preserved it is. There is one where someone's jacket is still stuck in a hatch. Here is the URL: https://www.paulallen.com/Indepth/Petrel/discoveries/uss-hornet-cv-8.php
  9. 4 points
    Frank Elder

    1947 Dodge COE

    Congratulations on posting something appropriate to the forum.
  10. 4 points
    Work in progress- my supervisor is in the one shot!
  11. 4 points
    Had my 37 out yesterday to visit a local guy who has a black 35 Dodge coupe in the background. The 35 is a nice driver/survivor hot rod that is for sale. I have posted it in the Ebay, Craigslist and External Site Referrals section.
  12. 4 points
    Gets parked most of the winter. But drive it as much as I can manage the rest of the year. Hits 75 mph almost every drive.
  13. 3 points

    New member

    Just joined this great forum. I have a '40 DeSoto Deluxe 2 door sedan that my great grandfather owned. It doesn't run as the engine is seized. Has a 3 speed trans. Car is complete, showing 29k on odometer. It hasn't been registered since 1964. My goal is to get it running and drive it. So I'll be on here learning about this cool old car. Thanks
  14. 3 points
    Got an update. I called a couple of other machinists and they couldn't tell me how much interference there should be. I even found a copy of a 2006 edition of the AERA connecting rod manual, and while it provides this kind of info for some engines, it doesn't for our flatheads. I then called Sealed Power yesterday and they told me the bushings need to be installed with about 0.004 - 0.0045" of press fit. I thought the rep didn't know what he was talking about and so did my machinist. That sounds like a ludicrous amount of interference. So I dropped into another machine shop - a big outfit - and talked to their head machinist, who has been doing engine machine work for 40 years, and he said that was about right for bronze bushings, which is what these are. I thought they were going to be steel-backed bronze, based on the description on NAPA's website, but they are bronze all the way through. I know this because I got a hold of three different parts (three different part numbers - one standard outside diameter and two different oversizes) and looked at the parts myself, and they are bronze. Anyway, the machinist said if the interference is only 0.0015" or so, which is what I was thinking, then the bushings will "fall" out. He also said burnishing them to expand them out against the rod bore is the best way to do it, but not many shops have the setup to do this, but he does. He also said such a large press fit is not needed for steel bushings, nor is burnishing. I got the impression from him that steel bushings only need about 0.002" interference, bit I'm not sure how accurate that is.Further confirmation of the tight press fit for bronze bushings is the fact that when I measured the three different bushings I got a hold of, the ODs were all 0.004 - 0.005" larger than advertised online (again by NAPA as well as other sources). I guess when the OD is stated, they mean the final installed OD, which is essentially the size of the rod ID, but that was not clear from the specs they provided. I think I'm starting to understand how this works, though.Since the machinist I spoke to this morning really seemed to know what he was talking about, I went and picked up my rods from my previous machinist and am planning to take them to this new guy.I'm posting this in hopes it will help someone else at some point, maybe even me
  15. 3 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    New member

    The two door sedan is in my opinion much nicer looking body than the club coupes.....only the bz coupe tops this body style....you got some solid bones with that car.
  16. 3 points

    New member

  17. 3 points
    Frank Elder


    The first time I have ever seen a brochure shot of the D-25.......
  18. 3 points

    Manifold Stud Replacement

    I would say that if a stud can not be unscrewed, then it is not going to be leaking coolant. If threads are good, I would leave well enough alone. Each stud should be examined with this thought in mind. Just my humble opinion! Dennnis M. in W. Tenn.
  19. 3 points
    3.5 inch dropped uprights,3 inch lowering blocks.
  20. 2 points
    Its very clear why Tim Kingsbury and a number of others stay away from this Forum. Most likely time to lock this useless thread. Good rittens..
  21. 2 points
    Brent B3B

    Manifold Stud Replacement

    I have revived a few of these motors and the worst one, was the block that didn't have coolant in it for years...... here is my "redneck" stud removal on the left side. (right side I had to tap out... block still in the truck)
  22. 2 points

    Front Shock Relocation Pics

    After thinking about relocating the upper front shocks on my car for the past few years I bit the bullet and with a mate recently relocated the upper shock mount on my Oz 1940 Dodge, this car uses the 1940 Plymouth chassis and wheelbase.......my car is a hotrod, using vented front discs and an Austin 1800 narrowed 9" rack & pinion so none of those things will be much help to those in the USA however we used Monro Matic shock absorbers that had the following numbers on them........PK14 and 1009, these shocks had an extended length of 12 & 1/2 inches and a compressed length of 8 & 1/2 inches....they are VERY short shock absorbers and use the large rubber eyes at each end.........the front end of this car uses 1955/56 Ford coil springs with one coil removed and we were able to make upper shock mounts from 3/16th plate that wrapped around the top edge of the chassis with a pair of brackets of the same 3/16th material projecting out between which the upper shock eye fitted..........the upper mounts were bolted to the chassis using 5/16th x 3/4" long high tensile UNC bolts, the bolts screwing into short plates with welded nuts inserted via an access hole against the rear of the outside and upper chassis rail..............I also replaced the heim jointed front sway bar links that had worn excessively with new greaseable heim joints and replaced both upper & lower rebound rubbers.............the attached pics hopefully may help others, my original intention was to use a pair of Dodge pickup truck front shock mount brackets however as the Munro shocks were available they allowed the manufacture of shorter bracketry...............and the blue noellothane sway bar bushes shown in some pics were replaced with better fitting pieces................I haven't had the opportunity to take the car out for a drive as yet as I have a few other jobs being done at the same time and am awaiting the return of some parts from the chrome platers, the steering wheel collapseable section being the main piece........hopefully in a week or two............happy to answer any questions if any.........Andy Douglas.
  23. 2 points

    Shim at bell housing

    most pressed steel braces that I have dis assembled have the shim on both sides. Cast iron braces such as those on the fluid drive did not. Rule of thumb here is nothing needs to be overtightened of forced. Ever.
  24. 2 points

    Cabbage Hauler - WD-21 Build Thread

    I got back to the rear end today. Couldn’t find any marking grease so I sprayed a little paint on the ring gear to see if I could check the pattern. This is what I ended up with. Hard to tell from the pictures, but the pattern is fairly well centered. Backlash was a little more than I wanted to see. From the research I have done, max backlash for a new setup is .010” for this rear end. Mine measured .012”. Since the ring and pinion contact looks decent, I am going to run it like this. It will probably make a loud clunk when it goes into drive, but I think it has some decent life left in it.
  25. 2 points
    Reg Evans

    Who has the oldest B1b?

    I spent many an night with two different wives in this rig I built many moons ago. It was originally a 52 3/4 ton.


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