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  1. 8 likes
    After reading i decided to make my own tool using the old upper pivot bar, pivot bar bushings, 2 bolts with 4 washers and 2 washers. I cut the pivot bar to the right size for mounting the shortened pivot bar bushings. I also welded a washer on the pivot bar bushing. I made the just fitting between the arms and secured it with the 2 bolts on the new pivot bar. I mounted the tool on the new bar and mounted the new bushing a few turn to center the bar, see also the link above. Now i could turn both old bushing out,1/16 inch each to spread the upper arm and mounted the new bushing according, see also the link above. After mounting the bushings i turned the old bushings in and removed the tool, the movement of the new bar and bushing is as it should be. Dan Old pivotbar and bushing converted to miller tool
  2. 7 likes
    I thought I'd share my current project with everyone. I'm normally on the truck side, but my dad bought a 48 Desoto Custom 4 door a few years ago. We've been working on it VERY slowly mainly due to time constraints. The body has seen better days, the rockers were completely rusted out, and the drivers side of the car was vandalized in the 1970's (bricks were thrown at it). The sheet metal is pretty solid though, and the doors are rust free. When we bought it the engine was rebuilt in the late 70s, but they never fired it up. We got it running and drove it up and down the road. We went though the front end, resealed the rear axle, and rebuilt the brakes, so mechanically it is ready. Now all we have to complete is the dreaded rust repair and body work. I've never done anything this invasive on a car, but it wasn't too bad once you dive in. Over the 4th of July weekend, and last weekend I was able to get the rockers done on the passenger side of the car. It took a lot of time, but it is done. Don't laugh too hard, I'm not a welder or body guy. I'm just trying to make a nice driver. I'm ok with the results, so that's all that matters. Now I have one more side to do.... Pictures are below. I had to do a lot of other metal work under the car (body mounts and braces), the rear wheel well, and the front rocker/A pillar structure. A lot of it was rusted through and needed patches. It seems plenty strong now, and I think it will be good for another 50 years. I seam sealed and undercoated the inside of the rockers before welding the sill plates on. I'll try and post pictures every so often when I work on it but I can't promise it will be frequent.
  3. 7 likes
    To prime the pump, you need to completely submerge it in a container of oil and spin the shaft until all the bubbles are gone. After that, you need to prime the oil passages. Since the oil pump has a gear that meshes with a gear on the camshaft, it's not possible to stick a flat-bladed screw driver on a drill into the engine to spin the oil pump, like on many other engines, so some other method of pressurizing the oil system is needed. Some people do that by installing the primed oil pump, removing the spark plugs and cranking the engine until they see oil pressure on the gage. With the plugs removed, the engine doesn't develop compression, so the bearings won't be damaged as the engine spins - or so the theory goes. I did that with my first flathead rebuild, but I think there are better alternatives that are less risky to the bearings. Some folks have pressurized the passages with pressurized air tanks that force oil into them. I don't know the details of these setups. There is another option that I plan to use when I'm ready to start my freshly rebuilt engine. I have a spare oil pump, and I removed the gear from it by knocking out the pin that holds it to the shaft. I plan to install that pump on the engine and since the gear is removed, I should be able to spin it up with a drill and a flat-blade screw driver bit. There is a slot in the pump that normally engages the distributor, which should accommodate a flat bit. I'll spin the pump with the drill until I get good oil pressure readings for a few seconds, and then I'll rotate the engine a few degrees by hand, and I'll repeat this until I've rotated the engine at least a couple of full revolutions by hand. That should ensure the oil gets to all the passages. If you have your old oil pump, and if it produces a decent amount of pressure, it would probably be suitable for this purpose. I would take it apart and clean it up well before using it. After pressurizing everything in that manner, I plan to remove the oil pump and prime my new pump and install it onto the engine and then use the starter to spin up the engine (with plugs removed) to further ensure that everything gets well-lubed. The only areas that may not get so well-lubricated by these methods will be the tappets and valves, since they are not fed by pressurized oil, but you will no doubt be coating the tappets and their bores and the adjusting screws and valve guides with oil during assembly. I would recommend you also put oil into the cast cups that are behind the valve covers, which feed the tappets. Also, the cam lobes and the tappet surfaces that contact the cam lobes will need to be coated with cam lube for proper break-in. Usually, an engine with a new or freshly ground camshaft needs to be run at about 1800 - 2000 rpm for something like 20 minutes to ensure proper cam break-in, but follow your camshaft supplier's recommendations. Good luck!
  4. 6 likes
    I spent a few hours weeding our families grave sites. It wasn't much of a workout for my truck but it was a pretty good one for me. 6 Months ago today on friday February 17th which strangely enough was also the 15th "anniversary" of my Dads passing, I suffered what the Drs called a "massive saddle pulmonary embolism". I didnt know what happened, all I knew is I coughed hard and from that moment on I couldnt take two steps without having to fight to breathe. I thought I had strained something in my chest and that it would pass but on Monday it still wasnt any better so my wife made a appt (behind my back ) hahaha for me to see my Dr. the next day and thats when I found out what had happened and I was taken my ambulance to the hospital in Tucson where I was a guest of theirs for a week..Six Drs have told me that with as massive as it was I should have died the second it happened and that "I still had work to do here" and or "God wasn't done with me yet" .Man was I scared,no make that terrified. Now here it is 6 months to the day later and Im doing really really good. Actually within a week of "the event" as my Dr calls it I was doing and feeling pretty darned good. Well except for the Lovenox shots I had to give myself 2x a day in the belly for a few weeks but even that was no big deal I was and am just so happy to be alive. A week ago my Cardiologist told me that the damage to my heart and lungs that he had seen months ago was completely gone and that I was free to do as much as my body will allow, and to listen to what my body is telling me. Then he gave me the ok to stop taking the Coumadin YAYYYYYY ! The only effects I still experience is that some days I feel so tired , a bit dizzy at times and knackered from the get go that about all I can do is rest and lay down. The Dr said thats 100% normal and that is can take from 6 months to a year or two to go away. He said its because of the trauma that my heart and lungs went thru and now my body is spending and using a LOT of energy to heal. Most days I feel pretty darned good. After I got out of the hospital I promised myself that I wasnt going to let "the small stuff irritate me anymore" and that I wasnt going to put of doing things that Ive been wanting to do but always seemed to get pushed aside... like working on my truck. So about 5 1/2 months ago I started doing the bodywork on it one panel at a time. I am or was a bodyman by trade for over 30 yrs so getting past the notion that I had to get it all done at once has been a bit strange. All those years of working on commission and meeting dead lines was kind of a hard habit to break at first but its a lot more fun to take it slow and do one panel at a time. I dont want it to be a chore, I want to enjoy it Anyway I started off by doing little things like restoring a Model 36 heater that I want to install in my truck and also a few dash parts that I believe are for I believe are for a 52 that I cant use but were in really nice shape what with being from the Az desert and all . Just small stuff at first to keep busy. As of late I have done both front fenders, the roof panel, the hood assembly and replaced the left front stake pocket. Along with doing the bodywork I've been stripping each panel because there was a LOT of paint on it . Ive been taking lots of pictures as I go along so I can look back at how it was when its all done. Sorry for the overly long and babbling post. Its a really huge and kind of emotional day for me what with it being 6 months and now Im off all the meds and everything . So very thankful . By the way, about the not whole not let the small stuff irritate me part.... easier said than done. I still get POd at some really stupid insignificant things at times but Im still trying hahaha. Its a work in progress. Again please forgive me for the long winded post. John
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    Welcome! This is a farmyard hack for hinge pin. Not an engineers fix but think of it as a diagnostic. Open the door, with a block of wood to protect it jack it up enough to take some of the weight off, after using some penetrating oil see if you can tap the hinge pins up a bit with hammer and punch, a quarter inch will do. Now with vice grips see if you can rotate the pins 180°. This should rotate the worn part if the pins away from the moveable part of the hinge, and move unworn metal into alignmemt. Tap them back down. If after releasing the jack you find you don't need to lift as much to close the door you know you need new pins, and maybe not so extensive pillar, rocker repair. I replaced the pins on the driver's door, and did the twist the pins and left them on the passenger side. Been OK for 15 years. I lube them twice a year.
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    Hit the limit so here's a few more.
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    update for all you 2017 BBQ goers (and others interested ) got it running again Thursday night! (still need to fine tune a little) Saturday took it for a test drive to a local car show...... what a blast! thank you everyone who helped work on it at the "Q" and via PM and phone.
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    I always use a oil pump with the gear teeth removed to prime these engines.
  9. 4 likes
    1973 D100 Adventure Club Cab. Another first for Dodge was the introduction of the Club or extended Cab pick-up in 1973. This is the one that was used in their advertising campaigns.
  10. 4 likes
    I did a run to San Mateo Lumber on Friday. Picked up special order kiln-dried 2x14's and ipe decking..
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    One thing I've learned over the last number of years of car shows and sharing my opinion....it's mine, it's only mine, and the builder could care less what you think. He never thought for one second what you thought about HIS build, because he was building what he wanted. The chances of anyone else building that truck back to original was slim to none, so it would have more then likely hit the crusher....I'm not a fan of the work he did in regards to safety, the steering wheel should be just plain and simply illegal no mater where you live, and the roof welding looks atrocious.....that all said.....rat rods have their place in the car world and you don't have to love them, or hate them....just appreciate that it was another vehicle that may have just been melted to make 10 more Prius's I've heard guys complain about my build...and I tell them right to their face....I guess I forgot to call you before I built MY truck....so sorry....they usually shut up right after that
  12. 3 likes
    Got a call from Bill Hirsch today. Can't say enough about how much it means to me that the principal of a company takes the time to place a call to his customers. How it happened was that my trimmer opened up the cartons that the top was shipped in and found that the padding for the roof and the wire-on trim were sent in the wrong color. My trimmer called Hirsch and let them know, whereupon Bill got the note and called me to apologize. Bill promised all incorrect parts would be replaced asap without cost. I did my homework before I made the purchase from Bill Hirsch. Many people told me he runs a good company and delivers good products. Today I learned that first hand his customer service is also great.
  13. 3 likes
    Mama always told me not to look into the eyes of the sun, But Mama, that's where the fun is. They were blinded by the light, reved up like a deuce, you know like runners in the night. Neat to see you and the family having such a good time discovering the simpler things in life in the old Meadow Brook. Out P15 has the same effect on our dog, she loves to be out and about in Kate. In fact she gets excited to goferaride, she runs to the door barking every time I start her up. Just spotted the deal about the keys. My dad had a 41 Dodge which he traded to the local Dodge, Desoto dealer for a 49 Meadowbrook fastback ( the first car I have a memory of) he traded that in 56 for a 54 Meadow Brook two tone green four door. I remember those keys attacked to a cardboard merchandizing stand, along with dealer installed accessories like backup lites, cigarette lighters, under hood and trunk lites, vanity mirrors, Pocking gas caps, dashboard compasses, and rubber bladed clamp on fans. When the salesman delivered the car, included was a set of those keys, which he said were presented to Preferred Customers, whichwe bacame with the third car purchased at the dealership. It got things like a wash with service, two dollars off an oil change and grease job. Two cents off gas when filling up at the Sunoco station across from the dealership, discounts on MoPaR branded wax, carwash, radiator flush, wiper blades etc.products purchased at the parts counter. Dad really thought that was special. He bought at least three other cars there before they got bought up and moved. Always wondered if people who bought the keys yot the same discounts??? Great deal for three bucks. Maybe the preferred customers were marked like the ones you showed??
  14. 3 likes
    Any club coupe has more trunk space than my PD two door (no trunk at all). Behind the rear seat there is room for the jack, lug wrench and a tool roll. In the glove box there is a box with spare light bulbs. On longer trips (>200 mi each way) I'll load a larger tool kit and some extra oil in the rear seat floor area before I load the luggage on top. I also carry Don's tool kit (AAA card and cell phone) at all times even in the new cars. Longest trip I've taken with this set of tools and spares is only about 2000 miles, so I guess your trip from the PNW to Tenn. would be longer. But my general philosophy is that if the car is well maintained I should be able to drive it anywhere without worrying about a break down. And if it is not well maintained then I should get to work on it.
  15. 3 likes
    Grinding the cam is generally to achieve a couple of things........... a reground cam is using yours or another 2nd hand cam, a new billet is just that a brand new piece of cast steel with the cams ground to suit, sometimes a new billet is preferred as it can be made to accommodate a higher lift and longer duration over and above what a stock cam will allow due to larger cam profiles to start with......off course their are limits to what is practicable due to cam bearing size, lifter shape, etc ........the increase in the lift and therefore the height that the valves open thereby allowing more fuel & air in and changing the amount of time, ie, the duration, that the valves stay open and also allowing more air/fuel in, the change in cam ramp or slope can also help as well to increase power.......I had a stock 230 industrial cam reground by a local Oz company, Waggotts and while I unfortunately didn't get to finish the engine build they assured me there would be approx. 20% more power in the 1/2 race cam they did.....they were a long time Oz speedway and general race car engine building company and knew what they did, the cam had a longer duration grind and lift........grinding the cam will in no way weaken the cam although I didn't get to the stage of getting the rest of the machining done on the 230 but with other engines I've played with over the years its worth paying a little extra and getting the reciprocating assembly balanced......crank, rods, pistons, flywheel/flexplate, clutch assembly and front pulley if needed.........balancing makes any engine smoother and generally much more responsive, at least from what I've found..........andyd
  16. 3 likes
    Don, I've sawn this pic before.........wood it have gone o/k?.........don't worry I've gone back in my corner....andyd
  17. 3 likes
    what was said verse what was meant..... wife tells husband to go to store and get a jug of milk, if they have eggs get a dozen...man comes home with 12 jugs of milk, his wife went ballistic and asked why 12 jugs of milk, his reply, they had eggs.....
  18. 3 likes
    Startr bndx hngng up? Flwhel hitting DST grd? Noise incrs, decrs, or stathe same with rpm chnge? Sarry, Prf rdr tuk daoff. Shall we lighten up here before knickers get twisted???? Maybe we need to agree to keep texting short cuts where they belong, IDK about you but they irk me. They belong in in the dust bin of communication styles.
  19. 3 likes
    Lisa doesn't like the shift knob. Maybe some red LED's for eyeballs?
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    Can't blame you for being unhappy. They shouldn't have taken your order OR your money if they couldn't complete the contract in a timely manner.
  22. 3 likes
    41 Dodge D19 bz cp, big block, TF, 8 3/4, relocated shocks, discs, list goes on and on....Cavalier rack show, my rendition of dual exhaust..
  23. 3 likes
    ACE and others have a product called Prep and Primer, by Jasco. It has no color and clear adheres to it. My clear over this product on my controversial patina, shows no sign of peeling after three years of application.
  24. 3 likes
    The "C53" was for the 1953 Chrysler 6 (Windsor and Windsor Deluxe), The V8 engines were C53-8. At least in the US. In Canada the Windsor engine prefix was C60, for the model number of the car. US Chrysler cars prior to 1951 used the model number for the engine number prefix. Your engine number of C53-50889 means it was the 49,889th C53 flathead six (264.5-cid) built. Both Windsor and Windsor Deluxe models used C53 prefix engines. The model number for your car is C60-2, for Windsor DeLuxe, as per the serial number. Chrysler Windsor Deluxe models were built in Detroit (East Jefferson plant), Los Angeles and Windsor, Ontario. Canadian serial numbers started with "9". Model 60-1 was the lower priced Windsor series. The serial number is not decodable and is a sequential number that started at 1001 with the first Chrysler in 1924. Serial numbers starting with "7" were for US-built Chryslers. As the first Detroit serial number for the C60-2 was 71,005,001 and your car is 71,032,569, your car is the 27,569th C60-2 built at East Jefferson. The final serial number for Detroit-built C60-2 was 71,050,872 for a total of 45,872. An addtional 3,434 were built at Los Angeles and 3,015 at Windsor, Ontario. The serial numbers for the C60-1 Windsor at East Jefferson started at 70,110,001 and ended at 70,140,156 for a total of 30,156. For the body tag - Model - 25 - Windsor DeLuxe 4dr Sedan Paint - 22 - Everglades Green Metallic Trim - 16 - Seats are done in green cloth Sched - 154 - Car scheduled to be built on the 154th of 1953 production Item - 0258 - Believe the 258th car to be built that day The rest are numbers for the options on the car - power steering, Fluid Torque Drive, radio, back up lights, etc. You can order the car's build record from FCA Historical. Not sure of the rates these days. The build record will confirm the engine number for that serial number and the options installed on the car. Hope this helps
  25. 3 likes
    Fill the galleries with oil through one of the ports on the distributor side. Gravity will do it if you use a supply tank mounted above the cylinder head level. Maybe use an oil filter canister adapted for the task. Speaking of oil filters : One word of caution. Make sure your oil filter is hooked up correctly with the drain (bottom) into the vertical port in the block and the pressure into the side of the canister . Without the spark plugs , crank the engine over until you have some pressure, then proceed to start. Matt, above offers good advice.
  26. 3 likes
    Great day in the garage today ! WOW. Hung the reconditioned gas tank. Finished installing new inner fenders. Cleaned & painted firewall . Started putting firewall hardware back together. ( see before and after ) It's a GOOD tired and aches today :-) Clay
  27. 3 likes
    Contact Rich Hartung Desoto1939 with any questions Desoto1939@aol.com How to use Ammco 1750 brake tool
  28. 2 likes
    Built this to finish off the fender extension project. Used a section off of old running board from parts truck.
  29. 2 likes
    I carry this tool box. I also carry a spare transmission in the trunk only because I don't have room to store it in my shop.
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    You may be correct, I don't really know Don any better than you....that being said I have been talking to and agreeing and disagreeing with Don for 6 years longer than you have been on this forum Mike. Yes he is very helpful and I think he means well, but as Don says say what you mean and let the chips fall where they may...lol. It was just a mild chastisement, I am capable of much worse if needed....Don will weed me out if he wants to or he may ignore me altogether, but we still respect each others opinion.
  33. 2 likes
    I remember hearing those Pontiacs go up the street when I was a kid. Quiet and smooth. Also slow. Just now remembering how nearly every common brand of auto could be identified by the sound of the engine. This was back in the '50s, when I could still detect sound.
  34. 2 likes
    This is very hard to answer as I don't understand "K- wad- padt little while-It really sounds load now" Can you better explain?
  35. 2 likes
    Wow lost a month. I had the block valves ground and valves checked assembled it and it started and ran nicely but didn't sound quite right so I check the cylinders and one had no compression. After a lot of unsuccessful work, I took pictures and showed them to my machinist, I had the valves in that cylinder switched. Engines get dirty when worked on so stripped it and repainted. So today, reassembly.
  36. 2 likes
    After seeing the work and bracketry 4mula had to do, I am wondering if something from the offroad world would work good in this application. They now make electric power steering boxes that hook up with a whopping 3 wires and are self contained with the computer and such. It would splice in on the steering column in the engine bay and be pretty simple overall. Not sure how much the Omni rack plus pump, hoses, brackets and joints would be. These run around 700 or so. (I am pretty sure these are just adapted out of modern GM vehicles) http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ac498700&Store_Code=PC&PowerSearch_Begin_Only=&sort=&range_low=&range_high=
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    Some of the manifold studs penetrate the water jacket. Simply remove the leaking stud and put some pipe dope on the threads, reinstall it and you should be good to go. Same with some of the head bolts as they also penetrate the water jacket.
  39. 2 likes
    I have a lot of 1/2" and 9/16" wrenches of all flavors including sockets. I buy them 4 or 5 at a time and when I get home, they have magically reappeared. Sometimes, when I go on a cleaning binge, there are piles of sockets that were not there the day before. Gradually, they all disappear until the next cleaning. It must be gremlins or something.
  40. 2 likes
    Just noted that I did not respond to the original question in this thread. I will in the following. The tack strip on my '39 Plym is very typical of most older model open cars consisting of a special metal band, about 3/4" wide that is riveted to the body at the upper edge of the body. The older bodies have a dense paper strip that is crimped into the channel. The rivets that hold the strip onto the body are a special flush type rivet. The removal of the rivets requires drilling them out so as to not damage the body. The tack strip channel should have been removed before the finish paint was applied. Most companies that supply top fabric have a new plastic type of tack strip which will hold the tacks in place and not stain the new top material. The tack strip should be re-riveted onto the body, then the proper size of new tack strip is placed into the channel and the edges are re-crimped to secure the plastic strip in place. I used i/8" pop rivets with the head inside of the channel...Wm..
  41. 2 likes
    It was the 2nd incarnation of the Oz Dart. First produced in 1967 as the VE model but only available in a 4 door sedan, Station wagon and a ute (2 door) versions. As can be seen, front end is more like the Dart. The second incarnation was like mine, a VF, which cam out mid 1969, now available in a 2 door hardtop as well, no soft top option, like in the US. A lot of these were chopped up (like mine) in the 80's and 90's when they were cheap as chips. Then in mid 1970 the third (and last) version came out, the VG. This one is the sporty 'Pacer' model.
  42. 2 likes
    I used to bracket race a 70 Toyota Corolla with the 4 cylinder engine and auto trans I bought new. I would run in Bracket 5,and dial in somewhere close to eternity. I'd take off in drive with music playing on my 8-track,and just let it shift itself. Almost always won my bracket. The guy that gave me the biggest trouble has a stock 53 Ford pu with Fordomatic. I could take him at top end,but would sometimes run too fast and DQ myself. I was hilarious to watch the rear view mirror and see those 427 Chevelles and Ram Air 4 Pontiac "stock" cars that the dealers had trailered to the track take off when I was already 3/4 of the way down the track. CLOUDS of tire smoke,and they would blow past me at the finish line so fast it would scare me,but they had almost always panicked and ran too fast. I usually made my car payments bracket racing that Toyota.
  43. 2 likes
    slightly outdated picture but I'm kinda anal and like to have sets. Sockets I do have some random ones and would guess 1/2 or 9/16 is the most.
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    Thanks. Not that hard to find. Roberts sells the hub caps and the beauty rings were on ebay. 235/85r16's
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    If you want to find out if you have stuck valves , pull the side valve covers and have someone crank the engine over while you watch the valve stems .
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    How about stock wheels and caps with beauty rings.
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    as for the front suspension...are you going disc brakes, relocated shocks and possible upgrade to R&P....are you in the frame of mind to leave stock ride height over that of lowering a tad for a difference stance say raked a bit with lower front or lowered all around. It is at this time you need to know you final goal here also. Think of the big picture and again of how things interact. Some of these mentioned features make all the difference in riding and stopping characteristics. Anyway, I have said enough on this, I cannot ever stress the importance of building your car on paper first and STICK with the original build concept to keep it flowing and less costly in the long run. Only you know how you wish the car to drive and perform. Good luck
  50. 2 likes
    talk about a windfall if you had the foresight to but about 10-20..but then, in '67 thirty dollars a pop was 90 gallons of gas....