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Showing most liked content since 10/16/2017 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. 4 points

    Cracked block now what.

    You can have your your block repaired ... but might be a little costly. I recently just finished this max Wedge up...cracked both sides front to rear.. had to save all the factory casting details and numbers. I stitched pinned it (Lock-N- Stitched it).
  3. 4 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    Radiator question

    Do not keep trying to top it off all the way to the top..there is to be expansion room in the top tank...second, do you have a digital infrared thermometer....this will allow you to ascertain the actual heat within the block throughout the cooing system...DO RUN a thermostat..it not only allows the block to warm up but when open the hole is of the proper size to allow the proper flow of water...not to big to prevent water from saturation but big enough to prevent oversaturation..is the timing a bit advanced by chance...makes them run very well but also allow them to run hotter temp wise..and lastly, did you take the time to purge the block before install to properly clean the sludge from the bottom of the block and inspect the distribution tube.....and ensure that the lower hose has a spring in it to prevent suction collapse if you have deleted the metal u-tube...
  4. 3 points

    Rolled A pillar?

    just wanted to mention what i did to fix the problem i had with the door fit that was having me stumped. some were maybe wondering what the heck did i do to fix the door fit because i never did get back. took all the info that was suggested and a big thanks to los_control for the measurements. it has been almost a year since i walked away from it because of work, kids and what not. i just completed the repair last week and it damn near made me sick grinding my new paint job. i ground off the weld at the pillar and floor and tightened down with c clamp to bring pillar against floor, measured and welded. when i clamped it brought the pillar back to where it was originally with a little persuasion to give me the correct gap. pic shows pillar is now against floor with a flush fit. door is installed and fits the way it should.
  5. 3 points
    Your close.. we were talking canadian 25 1/2" engines.. from 1935 to 1959. My Grandfather was hired by Walter Chrysler himself and was an Engineer. My Dad was an automotive engineer, worked on a ton of different chrysler engines, from flatheads to v8s to Hemis and over all kinds of applications and racing. He did not work for Chrysler. My Grandfather was the GM of the engine plant in Windsor Ontario. I do not have all of the stuff grandfather had.. I do have an entire room 12 x 24 feet, set up like a library with rows 8 feet high with documentation. When Grandfather retired, the flathead was no longer even remotely current and as part of his retirement package he was allowed to take home his personal library from the engine plant of all the obsolete stuff. Honestly I have no clue how much there is. its not dozens of manuals. Its not hundreds of manuals, its thousands. I would guess just his work diaries, notes, drawings etc would be several hundred thousands of pages. At one point he offered to give it all to the Chrysler Museum and they passed. He did donate about a couple of pallets of documentation.
  6. 3 points

    Chrysler Industrial Transplants

    My tug with the 218 Industrial.
  7. 2 points

    Photos of my B2B 4th try

    The truck runs well. I changed the oil, flushed the gas tank and lines, put in new plugs, and an Optima battery. The truck started up on the first turn after i poured some gas in the carb. The truck was last licensed in 1981. It has been in my wife's family since being bought new in 1950 by her father. I have the original bill of sale which i will post. My father in law worked for Mobil Oil, Socony, in Rifle, Colorado. He drove this truck carrying supplies and pipe fittings up into the mountains. They worked in line camps, on the oil and gas wells during the week. My wife's brother (94) passed and the heirs offered me the truck. It has 88,000 miles. A sticker on the pillar indicates that in 1965 the oil was changed with 85000 miles. So it has not been driven much since then. It has always been garaged. I am replacing the brakes on the front. I am very anxious to get it on the road. I used to ride in it up in the mountains with my father in law, 53 years ago. It was slow going, but couldn't be in a hurry on those roads. I was really happy to find this forum, i will be asking questions. took me forever to figure out how to post pictures.
  8. 2 points

    Valve Lash Setting

    I can understand, however would like to offer another perspective that I have, from setting my 1953 265 valves. I am not a seasoned pro. However I I did set my valves cold, then later checked and re-set them hot, with the engine running. The exhaust manifold is hot. An average pair of gloves takes care of that easily. It's not messy. Pretty well most of the same steps are taken to set the valves cold or hot. The front wheel comes off. The inner fender window removed. The valve covers removed. Then the feeler gages and wrenches are needed. When cold, the engine must be turned over so that you are setting the valve clearance with the tappet 180 degrees from the top of the cam ramp. I believe TDC gets you there. Once set, the 6 cylinder engine is turned again another 120 degrees to set the next set of valves. In the proper firing order. You carry on, for each cylinder. With the engine hot and running, for example you put your .010 feeler gage in the exhaust valve/tappet gap and measure. If it won't go in the gap, clearance is too tight. If it goes in easily and ticking stops, then its too loose. I found that a proper valve setting, offered a slight tug on the feeler gage. It naturally wanted to slowly, and softly pull the feeler gage into the clearance gap while the engine was running. There is no mess. Oil is not splashing around and getting on everything. The feeling that l developed, of the running engine, the engine pulling the feeler gage in, was solid confirmation that I felt I had it set right. The fine threads on the tappets make for nice easy adjustments. After a few trial and error lessons you get a good feeling how much to turn the threads to make up a 1 or 2 thou adjustment. My engine is running excellent and I feel like I got the valve clearances right. Seems to me that setting the valves cold is a great start. Then put the valve covers back on and the front tire. Go for a drive and come back home hot. Quickly jack up car, pull wheel and valve covers. Access the valves and test the clearances with the car running. Its a nice confirmation. As you know, incorrectly set valves often leads to a mess of related problems. Yes its hot. Messy? I did not have a mess. I found it was way messier pulling the oil filter, sucking the oil out and removing the sludge, than setting hot valves. Good luck whatever you decide to do. I just thought it may be helpful to share my experience. Initially I was intimidated at the thought of sticking my hands in a hot running engine. Near hot exhaust and moving parts with tons of force. In the end I thoroughly enjoyed the new experience.
  9. 2 points
    Young Ed

    Speak Now or Forever Hold Your . . .

    Mine haven't been used for other's weddings but I sure used them for my own!
  10. 2 points
    Great day to skip work and go on a cruise. Fall is well under way up here in Western Canada. Today is the only cruise friendly day I’ve seen in the past 2 weeks. Not many days left for the ‘53 in 2017. I’m savoring every minute. Certainly not a day to be stuck at work. Off to another icecream stand!
  11. 2 points
    Anybody like this person in the ad who sells with make an offer, shoot me a price, or whats it worth to ya is a conniving weasel......they know exactly what they want for it but hope you are an uninformed dummy that will shoot them a price much, much higher than what they will take. I refuse to be the buyer and the seller . Be honest and state your price up front........rant over. .
  12. 2 points
    Umm If I didnt say dont post that one the forum I should have and the reason being is almost every time it winds up costing me tons of time to defend the facts or winds up into a scrap which to be honest is why I stay off the forum as much as I can. The why are you here now.. well 8 members emailed me today and lol... dragged me back in. I also hate Wikepedia, but to save some time, here is the listing for just the car engines https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_flathead_engine I haven't checked for accuracy but it shows 27 engines and I know from my Grandfathers documentation, just out of the Canadian Engine Plant starting in 1935 for the 1936 model year to the end of production in 1959 there were over 55 cams just for cars. On the truck side, there were specs for pickups and bigger trucks using the exact same engine, and then another cam change for those engines where they used multiple carbs. Aka 1952 265. Now ad over 37 different combination of the flathead 6 for marine, ranging from civilian to military to different variation for different countries depending on octane level. Next we have the agricultural sector which had combines for 4 different manufacturers, 6 swathers, 3 tractors and then different generations of those and you have a bunch more cams. Then there were water pumps, which used 11 different flatheads, welders with over 22 different flatheads, aircraft, welders, snowmobiles, tugs for aircraft, fork lifts, loaders and generators. There were 14 cams just for air compressors, some of which drove a compressor and some of which used some of the cylinders to produce air. On the miltary side absolutely ever engine had its one spec and cams. From cars, trucks, power wagons, heck even tanks. The reality is we have the specs we can grind over 80 different cams, it is not there were over 80 different cams.. Hell I havent even counted it but its several hundred different cams for flatheads. Go find any engine in history that was used in more places than the flathead mopar 6 cylinder... If there is one, Its sure wont be a small block chevy.. Lol.. why do people this a small block chevy is the gold standard for anything ? Actually but since your on the topic.. Just for marine.. not talking whatever else a SBC is used for, but just marine, I could find 17 different cam specs. Im not picking on you but I did have to laugh.. 8.. There are at least 51 cam patterns just for the Canadian, USA, British, and Israel military just for the Canadian 25 1/2" engine.. Different hp, different octane, different fuel from gas to propane to some weird fuel requirements out on the field. I have no idea how many more there were for the USA side. I do agree there are lots of 25 1/2" still around which is amazing given the last one rolled out of the engine plant in Windsor before I was born in 1960. But the plant pretty much ran around the clock from 1952 to the switch over to the slant six in 1959.
  13. 2 points
    James G

    No reverse or first gear

    Got the transmission back in today. I now have first and reverse, Yaaaa! Went out cruising around for about 4 hours
  14. 2 points

    Just What I Needed !

    That is probably true. I use the postage paid envelopes that usually are included with the offer to send all the stuff back with a big NO written with black marker. Sometimes, I switch the info into other unrelated envelopes and send it back. Maybe they will learn to stop sending me stuff.
  15. 2 points
    They will siphon the new road $$$ off like they did to the other road taxes that are currently being charged at the pump so the roads will not get any better but we get to enjoy the honored distinction of paying the highest (by far) fuel taxes in the country. The only reason your cost per mile has dropped is your fuel mileage has doubled. Some of us need to drive TRUCKS. I think the registration goes up an average of ~$100.00, might be mistaken though. The current road taxes should repair the roads, not get diverted.... Electric and Hybrid cars should pay the additional taxes based on mileage. To use their terms, "their fair share." You are braver than me, I'm afraid of plugging it into a spreadsheet. I already know we are getting ripped off. It WILL be repealed. My God, California sucks... Adam
  16. 2 points
    You can avoid the cost of electric wiper conversion kits and still have electric wipers....get a rear wiper motor from an s-10 blazer....it is a back and forth not a circle motor...the sweep is close to what you need...a few pieces from the hardware store and some creative bracketry and you're all set ...12 v of course ...about $20 will do it..
  17. 1 point
    greg g

    Look what I found!

    Get some of that flex seal stuff in a can. And keep your filthy old car parts off the kitchen counter......
  18. 1 point
    Mark D

    Look what I found!

    More progress to report, and the top installation is wrapping up today. Took these pictures last week. Here the rear panel is tacked in place and the top pads are shown below. New Top pads needed to be made as the ones from Hirsch did not fit correctly in width and length. The pads prevent the Hartz cloth from wearing prematurely. I was able to assist with the next step which was to lay the top over the car and start to stretch and tack it in place. The following day it was brought out in the sun to warm. The guys then removed the temporary staples and started to stretch and re-tack it into its final position. Over the weekend the windlace was put onto cover all of the staple lines and the snaps were installed in the top to mirror the locations that were factory installed on the body. New rubber window seals from Steele arrived and were covered with the appropriate self adhesive black fabric also supplied by Steele. I should have the car back in my possession in the next day or so.
  19. 1 point
    Charlie Stephenson

    Photos of my B2B 4th try

    My Dad Owned and Operated a Mobil Station at the corner of 23rd and Forest Ave. near DRAKE University, where he graduated in 1938. I put up Four of the "Flying Red Horse Flags" (Black and White Checkered) when I was 15, they were gone the next morning, haven't seen a real one since. Charlie Stephenson
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point

    53 bed wood install help

    Hey guys... Looking for some help to get the bed back together. I picked up the strips and bolt kit with pads from MarK...and some cheap planks from Lowes. I only have two crossmembers out of the four (?) I'm supposed to have, so I'll have to makeat those. Does anyone else have a diagram, or a link to help me figure this out ?? Thanks !!
  22. 1 point

    silver engine paint

    Thanks a bunch for the input. It helped a ton. I ended up using duplicolor aluminum cast coat engine paint (rattle can). It looks great. Not too bright.
  23. 1 point

    6v positive ground question

    I think the issue with the radio only applies if you have changed to an electronic oscillator; when I switched from positive to negative ground with the original radio it kept working just fine. Marty
  24. 1 point
    A few pics from this evening's cruise. These darn cars make me eat so much ice cream. I wonder how many cones have been eaten in this car over the past 64 years? I was experimenting with my iPhone tonight taking some pics. You can get some groovy distorted looking images. Lots of fanatical waves and thumbs up tonight during my cruise route. I stopped for gas and a guy approached and said he loved the car. Could he take a few pictures? Of course, I replied. Thank you. I took her up several good hills tonight. Testing her for speed and watching the temp gauge. I hit my local hill in 3rd, pulled hard, shifted into 4th and pushed on up, hitting 50 MH. Speed limit was 30 MPH so I did not go any faster. She ran great. Great cars these old Chryslers.
  25. 1 point

    Dim headlights

    Reg, Great!!! I’m looking forward to it, and I know you’ll be pleased with the head lights. Warmest regards . . . .
  26. 1 point

    Dim headlights

    Reg, Sure—I got them at a local independent auto parts store whose owner (a friend of mine) has a Carquest franchise. I’m sitting here looking at the receipt for those sealed beams right now, and the part number is: CLB H6006. The cost when I ordered them (he doesn’t carry them in stock—not much call for 6v components until I got the ’46 Club Coupe) on the 19th of June, 2015, was $23.99, but I didn’t pay that much for them. I’d guess they’d still be in the $20-25 range. If that part number doesn’t work, let me know. I’ll talk to him and get another number (if there is one) for you.
  27. 1 point

    Looking for a good oil

    I just had a oil pickup professionally hot tanked and looked really clean........... But I knew I would have to open it up... remove the baffle and screen to properly clean it.... cleanliness a must to protect the bearings...
  28. 1 point

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    We stopped at the market for a few groceries. A guy I never seen before walked up to me in the store and said he liked the old Dodge and wanted to know what year it was. He commented that it was nice that we seemed to take it out to do every day things, like go to the grocery store. I told him we've put on 6,000 miles since May. He seemed happy to hear that. Just passed the 68,000 mile mark on the car. It had 59,125 miles on it when I bought it back in March of 2016.
  29. 1 point
    Lookin' good man! You did the right thing by taking the day off. Otherwise its a day you can never get back. What an awesome way to enjoy it!
  30. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Spring under axle rear b2b

    same song and dance routine on the car side also......KISKIR
  31. 1 point
    Jeff Balazs

    Spring under axle rear b2b

    I am constantly baffled by all the talk of lowering these trucks. Not sure why there is so much interest and effort put into this process? I have about 10,000 miles on my B-3-C now and am extremely happy with it's ride qualities. I just can't imagine messing about with the standard set up. It is easily the nicest riding and handling solid front axle vintage truck in these parts. IMO the factory got it right from the beginning. And no.....I don't think they look any better lowered. Jeff
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point

    silver engine paint

    I use VHT engine paint in cast aluminum color. It holds up well and looks pretty good.
  34. 1 point

    Looking for a good oil

    Remove the pickup while you have the pan off because it will be full of crud too. Uncrimp the pickup housing that holds the screen and clean behind it, the screen is easily removed.
  35. 1 point

    Dim headlights

    Use a 30 amp self resetting breaker and take power directly from battery for max volts at bulbs. Otherwise you still have all the power going through dash and switch first and high losses. Google it. Plenty of schematics out there. Simple to do. By going from the battery the only power on your switches and dash harness is the fraction of an amps to trip the relay And yes. Gen alt will sense the load and compensate/charge as normal.
  36. 1 point
    My apologies, Tim. I won't quote you again when trying to add to a forum topic. This info was based on notes I had taken when you and I had some lengthy conversations many months ago. I had hoped that disseminating this kind of information would add something positive to the discussion, and I for one, believe you carry a lot of credibility, considering your background, so I figured this kind of info would be of benefit to others as well. But....I also understand that people sometimes like to get into debates over things that in my mind should not be all that debatable, and I certainly understand your desire not to get into yet another scrap. Consider your message received - I'll certainly respect your wishes.
  37. 1 point

    Cowl vent linkage

    These pics are of my p-15's linkage but probably similar enough to yours to help. Hope so. they are taken with the vent open. Olds fiesta hubcaps on your ride? Nice!
  38. 1 point

    Radiator question

    Also check to see that the manifold heat riser isn't stuck closed.
  39. 1 point
    Has anyone asked Charlie about this?
  40. 1 point
    Yes your 52 Cranbrook can be converted to propane very easily with bolt on parts from a Yale forklift ( late 60's early 70's vintage ). The engine in my 46 came from one.
  41. 1 point

    Just What I Needed !

    In Illinois we to have a complete retest at 75 and every 4 years after. i m wondering if going through the CDL test again at that age is worth the trouble . Parallel parking a 40 foot school bus was a thrill the first time. Not to mention the yearly CDL Medical exam
  42. 1 point

    things i find in the woods....

    a little foliage/etc.
  43. 1 point
    Ah, I had you confused with another person who's also working on vacuum wipers. He's running a small block Chevy. I was lucky and didn't have to disassemble my wiper motor. I'd probably cut out a piece of thin leather or inner tube and try that. Otherwise wiperman.com may be your best bet.
  44. 1 point
    There's some kind of grommet in the arms but I can't remember if they're rubber, plastic, or oilite. The arms on yours look correct to me. I'm not sure what shaft you're saying isn't working correctly. Also keep in mind that these motors don't turn in a circle like a more modern unit. They wag back and forth if that makes sense. My wiper motor worked but wouldn't make it through a complete cycle. I disconnected the arms from the motor and left them under the dash when I took the motor out, poured some lube through the vacuum port and worked the actuator back and forth until it seemed like it had freed up somewhat. Then I hooked the motor up to vacuum to test it before re-installing it. I managed to lose one of the jesus clips and replaced it with a clip from my collection. Lubing solved my problem and hopefully will solve yours, too. Vacuum wipers aren't really all that bad. If I had a V8 like yours I might have to worry about not having wipers when passing someone but with a stock 218 that won't happen very often.
  45. 1 point

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    Just a quick update on the front end. Progress is slow ... there was so much to clean. But, I finally got it all cleaned up and painted. The the parts I took off/replacements waiting to go on are all painted too. Scarebird conversion is here as well as the new ECI master and pedal bracket. I'll keep everyone posted, with pics of course, of the re-assembly and disk brakes.
  46. 1 point

    The Gathering of the Faithful

    I started out the show season in June by attending The Race of Gentlemen (TROG) in NJ wearing my The Gathering of the Faithful tee shirt, and yesterday I ended my show season at The Gathering of the Faithful wearing my TROG tee shirt! The Gathering draws vintage race cars and "traditional" (not "rat") rods and customs. It has been organized for nearly twenty years here in south east Massachusetts by a group of people committed to vintage speed. While there was rain in the forecast, there was still a good turn out. They lined the flatheads up along a stone wall (including my P12 and a couple other Plymouths pictured here). While we've never met, I do believe that's Member Moose's '54 Belvedere, and the P15 is a real road warrior, having made the trip out to the Syracuse Nationals a few times. In keeping with my interests, everything pictured below is MoPar powered, with the nice '34 Dodge sedan having a Mercedes Benz mill! (it was all in the family - once!). Enjoy the pics!
  47. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    DODGE logo art

    sorry bout that, I haven't forgot about you ( and kinda figured you were busy.....) I will work on it
  48. 1 point

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    Nothing too exciting tonight, but at least wifey and I got the Meadowbrook out for a ride. We drove over to the Houston Nature Trail to take a walk. It was a perfect night for a short cruise, and for a casual stroll on the trail. The fall colors are really starting to look nice around these parts.
  49. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams


    more of the older threads needs some updates and closure as many leave you hanging wondering if finished, worked when finished, attentions to needed changes to make work or still a work in progress...
  50. 1 point
    greg g

    6v positive ground question

    When running, what does the amp gauge show? Discharge or charge?