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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    I will replace this engine with the rebuild, Again, thanks to everyone for all of your input and help throughout this project. Bill
  2. 4 points
    I guess it's about time I posted a few pictures of my project. I got this truck about 3 years ago, it was either I bought it or it went to the crusher, as I was only paying scrap price I figured I had nothing to loose. I knew once I started though, that It would be a very time and money consuming project. Besides replacing a bunch of sheet metal, I changed the rear end to a Jeep Cherokee with a 3.5 ratio and drum brakes. I installed a front ScareBird brake kit. The engine that is currently in the truck was supplied by Dan Babb. The engine that I am rebuilding is the one that was in the truck when I got it. Although the engine has some issues I have been driving it, I really love driving this old truck and am amazed at the amount of attention it draws, seems I can't go anywhere without someone wanting to examine the truck and relate fond memories of old Dodge trucks they have known. The paint color is called Laguna Green and was available on Mini Cooper convertibles for a short time. I put the truck together to make a comfortable driver, not a show truck.
  3. 3 points
    Read this. Three times. http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/
  4. 2 points
    Dodgeb4ya

    Bell housing hole plug

    Okay today I looked thru both a 1929-39 Plymouth parts book and a 1936-42 Plymouth parts book.... It's very unclear as to exactly which plug and part # is the one needed... but here you go. see what you can do with these #'s.. P3/P4 and up....661080 upper housing plug All this info from thru 1936-42 Ply parts book 661081 lower "" " The 1929-39 Ply parts book only listed Bell housing plug #660324 Try these parts numbers on a search. Good luck!
  5. 1 point
    Depending on your long term plans for the car, and since you have plans for front disc conversion, you might want to look at replacing the axle assembly with something a bit more user friendly. Explorer 8.8 is a good option.
  6. 1 point
    The Amazon link I posted above is for 0.156 bullet connectors for 10-12 gauge wire. They were the only ones that size I could find. That's why I was willing to wait on shipment from China. I pull off the yellow insulation and use heat shrink. They fit my 1939 headlight switch without modification. So they do exist...
  7. 1 point
    Can bolt on Scarebirds in an hr or so.. Either are good kits, Scarebird gets you brand new hubs too, but the kit costs $100 more
  8. 1 point
    DonaldSmith

    Time to clean the workbench.

    Just build a new countertop over the old one. Or just set a countertop on a few bricks. You can push stuff apart enough to spot a few bricks.
  9. 1 point
    rhelm1953

    1951 Meadowbrook Rebuild

    Back in the day I refreshed the engine or more than one old beater with just rings and bearings using a hone and plastigage. You won't know until you pull the head, if the ring ridge at the top of the cylinder is minor then you can probably reuse the old pistons, hone the cylinders and drop in new rings. It won't be the same as a rebuild but can get you another 20,000 to 30,000 miles. On a lightly used hobby car that might be enough. If you have broken pistons and the cylinders are rough shape then you are in for more work. Pull the head, take a look and decide what you want from the car/engine and proceed accordingly.
  10. 1 point
    You need a special puller to work on the rear brakes. You need to get a service manual for your car reproductions are on eBay all the time. A good investment. Will keep you from making expensive mistakes.
  11. 1 point
    Brakes are never an area to cut corners. Replace all the hard line with the new copper-nickel brake line that will never rust in or out,and replace the hoses,too, Replace the rear wheel cylinders with new ones and turn the drums.
  12. 1 point
    abra cadabra....many kits out there...I recommend our very own member who makes the kits, olddaddy@rustyhope.com
  13. 1 point
    greg g

    Antifreeze

    You could have the system pressure tested by a shop. Be advised these systems were not pressurized from the factory so any testing should not exceed 5 psi. Does you heater supply hose go any where close to the area in question?? In the mean time, clean it up, start it up and observe what happens. The other thing folks tend to do is overfill the radiator. There wants to be some room for expansion when hot. As long as the radiator core is covered with coolant you are good to go. If you put in more than needed it will belch it out.
  14. 1 point
    austinsailor

    Identifying a T786 motor

    All the 30" motors had 12 ports. I have a couple 331 ci motors, 12 ports.
  15. 1 point
    My dad was part of the team that designed the first transistor radio. Note the soldering process in this film clip.
  16. 1 point
    Here's a before and after of my 33 Plymouth .
  17. 1 point
    busycoupe

    Time to clean the workbench.

    I think that you should just close the door and build a new garage. 😛
  18. 1 point
    my buddy often said that cleaning a shop is best done by opening a door on each end and driving through with a front end loader....miss that guy, cancer took him a few years back.
  19. 1 point
    mattimuss

    Parking Brake Rebuild

    Hey All, I have been having an issue with the parking brake disengaging when I release the handle and finally decided to take a look. I am pretty sure that what I found was the original setup from the factory...original parking brake lining plus 77 years worth of dirt, grease and rust! Gotta give Ma Mopar credit where credit is due...77 years on one lining! I pulled it apart and found the the lining was worn down to the rivets. And knowing my Gramps as I do I know that he never, ever considered changing it as he never, ever used the parking brake! I knew I had a spare parking brake assembly in a box-o-parts, but when I pulled it I discovered that it was for a 1938-40 Plymouth and the mount point was about 10 degrees off to the right [see attachment]. Now, I probably could have made it work, but I didn't want to take the chance, and I am lucky enough to have a lining repair company less than a mile from my house! So I spent a few hours removing the old lining & rivets, cleaning, sand blasting and painting. Once this was done I took the original assembly [with original lining as pattern] over to Peck's and had them reline the assembly. I took it in last Saturday at 1:30pm and picked it up today at 3:30pm. Not too bad and it looks damn near new [see attachments]. Now I get to clean the tail shaft and parking brake drum, put her all back together, adjust the parking brake and take her out for a test drive to the milkshake shop 😁
  20. 1 point
    Mayo jars are the cat's pajamas for this kind o' stuff. Trader Joe's still sells their mayo in glass jar (w/blue top). I feel bad every time we throw one out!
  21. 1 point
    JB, I'm very envious, I desperately need to do that. Great job and great example.
  22. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    WC Rear axle removal

    This was the factory Miller tool to remove the axles...
  23. 1 point
    streamer

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    I restored this truck over a 2 year period, but sold it several years ago. I would like to know if anyone knows where it is today. It was sold to a person in Maine then he sold it to someone else. I anybody has seen it, please let me know. Thanks
  24. 1 point
    Ted

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    Just wanted to say to all of you from past to present that have proudly served our country. Thank You. I can speak for my family and say, we will always be in debt to you and will always have your back.
  25. 1 point
    48Dodger

    How did these kids survive?

    Pretty sure at 1:03 the guy calls the driver an a-hole........maybe cuz he didn't buckle in the kids?.....:D 48D


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