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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/17/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point

    2018 HAMB Drags

    Saturday will be the 2018 HAMB Drags at MoKan Dragway. Hoping to see Bob BobT-47P15 at the host hotel tomorrow evening. Made the drive up from Dallas to Joplin today in the 37 coupe with my trusty Co-Pilot who will visit with my mom while I am running around doing car stuff. Unfortunately I did not get my AC back together before the trip so we had to brave the heat. The roll out windshield made it bearable, but greatly elevated the volume. Will share photos over the next couple of days.
  2. 1 point
    Hello I'm new to the forum so this is also my intoduction. I'm Patrick. I'm the third owner of a 1936 dodge LC pickup. I bought the truck last September. The truck had been sitting since 1974. 20 years inside and 20 years outside. The truck is in "running when parked" condition so that was a real plus for me. I understand it was a daily driver that was simply parked when the owner bought a bigger truck. When I bought it the motor was stuck. I got it unstuck a year ago and got it running yesterday. I put fresh oil in it, disassembled and cleaned the carb, filed the points and checked the gap, put new plugs in it, fresh gas, new battery and with a little work it fired up yesterday. Im very pleased and excited to get it running however after running it for about 15 minutes it continues to smoke white smoke very badly. Its not the white dissipating kind. It fills up the whole neighborhood. The motor seems to purr really well but Im unsure what is causing the smoke and which direction to go from here. Any help would be more than greatly appreciated. Here is a picture of the truck.
  3. 1 point

    37 Plymouth Sedan Resto- New Member

    Modern V-8 engine means complete resto-mod, leaving only body/frame and gutting out everything else. Once you say "A", you have to say B, C, D, etc., until you end up at Z. Modern engine will require all new powertrain and modern wheels. With modern wheels, you will need modern power steering, front disc brakes, and new suspension. Kiss goodbye to original dash with instrument cluster. To put otherwise, you will be in the open sea designing and building your all new Turboaddict brand automobile that has outward semblance to a '37 Plymouth touring sedan. For me, the task would be too intimidating, and the end result too unpredictable in terms of performance and safety. So, with my '37 Plymouth, I am taking a path much closer to original restoration, although not strictly original as viewed by the purists. Original powertrain, but with engine mods including 12V electric with alternator, transistorized ignition, electric radiator fan, modern carburetor, aluminum cylinder head, etc. Original rear end, but with taller gearing. Original suspension, but with new production leaf springs and modern shocks. Some folks do resto-mod because they are afraid of not being able to find original parts. Nothing could be further from truth - parts for these cars are still plentiful and surprisingly inexpensive, at least not more expensive than parts for modern cars - if you are a knowledgeable and patient shopper. And then there is poetry in the original restoration. The look and the feel. There is nothing like the feel of smoothness and torque of a Mopar flat six. Enjoyed your pictures. Eye candy.
  4. 1 point

    218 performance bump

    Only if his 230 is post 55, and 125 came in a 56 engine...so you would need to know all of that as well and be sure what your building. I’m not sure what changed, possibly head clearance and valve or cam changes, but the 54 and older 230 are all around 110 or less hp, very close to the 218. I would build whichever is the cleanest and most un molested block to start, if it’s already bored 30 + over you may want to use a different block
  5. 1 point
    brian b

    37 Plymouth Sedan Resto- New Member

    I used Master Power Brakes for my 39 dodges stock IFS. Check with Mark Chichester, he was very helpful with my build. Quality stuff, excellent stopping power, and after about four years, very little wear on the brakes themselves. I agree with rhelm 1953, your stock front end is better than a mustang II, which was basically regurgitated Pinto hardware. As some of these aftermarket MII based set ups have gotten older, I hear more and more stories of failure. Rebuild your stock set up, you will be happy with it. Good luck with your build. brian b
  6. 1 point

    37 Plymouth Sedan Resto- New Member

    Can't tell you about disc option for the stock axel but I cannot recommend an aftermarket Mustang II setup. Most of the aftermarket Mustang II kits, Fatman, Heidts, etc, have a serious design flaw where a single long bolt is used to fasten the Lower control arm to the frame. The bolt is loaded in single shear and over time it will suffer fatigue failure and shear off where it exits the frame. I have read of several cases of this happening and it happened to me. In my case it was after about 7 years and 50k miles, luckily when the bolt sheared it was at low speed and a few blocks from home and the only damage was a bent lower control arm. Had it happened a month earlier when we were driving the car to Lake Tahoe, through the mountains at highway speeds the ending could have been much worse. Depending on your fabrication skills you could get a dropped axle from a company like speedway and convert to a four link and coil overs, that would give you a lot of options for brakes and ride height.
  7. 1 point
    '36 Glasstruck

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Hi all, I'm back and I still have the truck! Sorry for the long absence. The new site format looks great!! It took a minute to find my thread. I have other hobbies and very one-track mind. It seems I can only immerse myself in one hobby at a time. I'm also a musician, and have been very into bass playing for the last 5 years. Since last posting I've been in 4 bands, changed jobs, sold and bought a house, and had a baby...but I've started on the truck project again. The truck has been living quietly and untouched in my garage since I've last posted. I've recently pulled the gas tank off and I'm taking it in to have it acid dipped next week I hope. I tred testing the sending unit with my multi-meter set to ohms. Its a one-wire sending unit and I'm not sure where to put the other lead from the multi-meter. I put one lead on the connection, and one to ground and did see some movement on the readout as I moved the arm up and down. Maybe it will still work but we'll see. Also, I tried to take out the fuel pickup tube, but I'm not sure its supposed to come out. There is a copper fitting that looks to be directly connected to the tube inside, that is screwed into at 3/4 size nut. I got the nut to spin, but it doesn't seem to want to screw out of the tank. Almost like it's press-fit. I should have left that part alone. Now the 3/4 nut turns, but not the like its going to come out.....more like its now going to leak in the future. I also pulled the brake hubs off. The front shoes actually look great, but I should probably still buy new, as I'm not sure how well the linings are still adhered. They're 1960's replacements I assume, as they are not riveted on. I'm having a dilemma on where to buy my new parts. I've checked with Kanter, DCM Classics, Oldmoparts, Roberts Motor Parts, Ebay, and my new find, Vic's Dodge Garage, which crazy enough is in Corvalis Oregon, only about 30 miles north of me. That will hopefully be a godsend. He offers full brake line reproduction kits. But as far as shoes, cylinders, hoses etc, it seems everyone has almost everything, but no one has everything I need for a one-stop-shop, except for that kit on ebay from mopar-direct, which is far too expensive. I need lines, shoes, cylinders, master cylinder, rubber hoses, maybe junctions, and two new seals for the rear axle. One for sure, but might as well do both. Money is tight so progress may be slow, but I'm older, wiser, sober, and feeling much more confident about working on this truck. I will post updates, along with a few photos of the process. I was thinking of starting a new build thread, or changing the title of this thread, but I'm not sure I have the option.
  8. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Time for an overhaul...

    Spinning the engine that long with the starter motor is a sure way to melt the starter motor. Short 10-15 second bursts with at least that much cool down time in between starting attempts will insure much longer starter motor life
  9. 1 point

    Time for an overhaul...

    Retorqued the head again this afternoon. Gained a little bit more squish on that gasket.... When done we hooked up an O2 sensor to the bung we'd installed Saturday and went for a spin. Idle AFR was right at 11.3:1. A bit rich. I can fiddle with that a bit. When cold the car didn't like the screw touched though. We tried turning it in until we saw mid 12's, but the engine didn't sound as happy. WOT saw 12.8:1 and cruising was right at 15.2:1. If I can figure out a way to both add more main jet (easy...) and take away a touch of the power circuit I think I can get both of those numbers closer to the mid 13's. One thing I can say is this thing is really smooth. You know that Plymouth commercial where they set a glass of water on the fender? Well, I'm betting I can set it right on top of the air cleaner. It doesn't budge.
  10. 1 point

    Updates on my 1940 Windsor!

    This will be my plenum to hopefully help balance out the carbs. It will sit between the carbs and the intake runners
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point

    Time for an overhaul...

    So, a long day yesterday, and the end being in sight I didn’t want to quit. Neither did my pal Brian who pitched in and ran errands in the evening to get the car started. In the am I got the radiator hoses on, bypass on and the oil adapter plumbed and painted. Filled up the radiator with distilled water, or at least started... when I found my first mistake of the day. I hadn’t tightened the water temp bulb in place and water was pouring out the back of rhe head. Sigh.... also, I’d forgotten to tighten the plug I’d put in the bypass housing as I’m not replacing the useless heater line that was connected to the back of the head when I got thr car. So, got that sorted out and topped it off. I figured if it was going to leak I’d fill it early and find the issue. Well, it did and I did. Also, got the air cleaner and breather decals on. Is there one on top for a ‘37...? I have a red and black “Chrysler” air cleaner decal that obviously goes on the top of something, but didn’t apply it. Made up a wire set and made my second mistake of the day. I’m not sure why I wasn’t thinking by 6pm, but I wasn’t. Wire set came with the plug ends installed and i threaded them and promptly clamped the wrong end of the cap terminals to the wire. I have extra terminal ends at home, but not at the shop. Figures. But Brian had a nice set of mix and match Ford metallic wires on the shelf from another build and we installed those for the start up. While I was screwing up that Brian ran out and got me a battery. Had tried to charge mine overnight but it didn’t take, and there wasn’t enough voltage to even turn the starter motor over without plugs to find the compression stroke for No1. Then, when he got back, he drained the year old gas from the tank (“I didn’t expect it to take a whole year, Brian”) so we could make an attempt. Wasn’t much over a dribble in there, so that worked out okay. First I left the plugs out and cranked the motor over to get oil pressure up. Installed plugs and cranked for a while and weren’t seeing gas in the fuel pump bowl. Brian gave the gas tank a bit of compressed air to assist, and within moments there was fuel up and into the pre carb filter. Tried to fire it again and it wanted to start, but wouldn’t quite. Took about four attempts to get it to catch and run, but it wouldn’t idle until the fast idle screw was adjusted, and then.... well, it purred. 😬 No smoke, no misfires, and one leak; just needed a 1/4 turn on the line at the fuel pump that feeds the carburetor to fix that. No oil leaks so far. No water leaks noted. DID notice some compression seeping at a few head studs though once it was warm. Not sure how significant that is or if a retorque post initial heat cycle will fix it. Hoping so.... Still haven’t driven it yet. It’s penned in by a later model Trans Am on the lift (between me and the door) that is getting fancy suspension installed and my car is too tall to get under it. Hopefully that project will be gone by next weekend and I’ll get a chance to drive and see how the new clutch and rebuilt transmission work out.
  13. 1 point

    Time for an overhaul...

    Yeaterday was my wife’s and my 28th anniversary. Still, she let me go to the shop to make some headway. 😊 Got the floor in. Put an inexpensive layer of insulation down first. Hand brake installed. Floor mat down. Job is starting to look finished..... Radiator reinstalled. Not sure I like the flat black, but that’s how it came back. In it goes. And finally made up a new oil pressure line. Hard to see, but it’s in there.


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