Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    A friend contacted me to tell me he saw my Chrysler and I on someone’s You Tube channel. A person unknown to me had asked me a few Q’s at a car show in June. Here we are. Jump to the 2:19 mark. I had a few people talk to me who were really, really into my old Windsor that day. It was a good day. I kinda feel special now. Lol. https://youtu.be/NgrpR17TKNA
  2. 7 points
  3. 6 points
    goingbush

    New '49 Dodge on the block.

    Anxious wait while our new Dodge delivery is completed. Bought sight unseen from a FaceBook Marketplace sale notice , Travelled 1700km via Webtow, http://www.webtow.com.au Can't be happier, non runner but way better than expected. Original books and paperwork included , receipts showing 4 previous owners. Toyed with the idea of converting it to EV , but its too damn good, going to bring back to new .
  4. 6 points
    n1gzd_plymouth

    my new 1939 P8 Business coupe

    Hi I have not posted in a while (but I am back). I just got another Plymouth (project). 1939 P8 business coupe. The previous owner had it since 1971 but for the past 22 years it was in his basement. Rebecca
  5. 5 points
    I just wanted to share the latest problem so that others could benefit from my stupidity experience. I had been chasing a performance problem for a couple of months which had prevented me from driving my 1941 Chrysler New Yorker very often. It had a moderately rough idle, difficult hot-starting, a bad stumble when coming off idle once it was warm, and it kept getting worse over time. It had started stalling when coming off idle once in a while. These fluid drive cars with the throttle guard are supposed to be impossible to stall, so that was the final straw. I had been avoiding driving it because of the lack of power when taking off from traffic lights -- couldn't guarantee it would actually go. I tried a lot of different things -- initially I worked on plugs and timing, cleaning plugs which were still relatively low miles, but admittedly 10 years old and had minor fouling. Tweaked the timing to try to advance it to get a little more power -- that just made it tough to start. Cleaned and re-gapped points, which seemed like they should still have plenty of life left in the wear block and the points dressed up nicely. Nope. Checked fuel system to see if was starving for fuel in coming off of idle. Had to run the idle speed a bit high to keep it from stalling, and it required a lot of nursing the throttle while stopped in traffic. I had replaced the fuel tank over the winter, mostly because the drain plug had been frozen in place forever, yet it dripped pretty steadily ... And the tank was not in terrible shape, but I could really never properly drain it easily, and it was pretty nasty on the outside, with some minor dirty stuff on the inside. Replaced scungy fuel line; replaced old fuel filter, realized I was doing the glass bowl fuel filter wrong; re-installed fuel filter; checked the carb, which had only a small amount of sediment in the bowl, but I had thought that a clogged accelerator pump circuit could have been the source of the stumble. Even though I could visually see that the accelerator pump was giving a squirt. Nope, that wasn't it either. Carb is now very nice, but tuning the (2bbl) carb with the idle mix screws was puzzlingly not responsive. Was it fuel flow problem? Did the new gas cap I got (after I left one on the pump last year after a fill-up) vent properly (i.e. prevent a vacuum in the tank from working against the fuel pump)? Nope, gas cap is properly vented for vacuum. Gas caps taste pretty nasty, too. Fuel bowl level? Nope. Checked distributor some more. Free play acceptable. Cleaned vacuum advance, it was basically working, if dirty, and the diaphragm was sound and the spring good. Mechanical advance was basically within spec using a timing light. Distributor slightly dirty inside. Condenser checked out okay with a multimeter. It's about 300 nF, for those who want to know. Finally went to poke around more with timing and I said to myself, "You know, self, what do you really know about that ignition coil? How long's that been in there?" and I figured I didn't have much to lose checking that out. It does require crawling under the dash to get the coil out, because it's got one of those coils through the firewall with the ignition lead to the coil primary on the back side of the coil inside the car. So I pulled that out, and put the coil on the bench with the voltmeter, and it looked "funny". The primary read unsteadily at between 0.3 and 1.3 ohms, rather than a steady value somewhere around 1.5 ohms. The primary-to-secondary resistance was not the expected 7000 - 10,000 ohms, either. It was mega-ohms or open-circuit. It wasn't really a definitive answer that the coil was bad -- I mean I had checked spark previously, and while it might have been intermittent or missing a bit, it still put out a basically good spark, I thought. One of those cheap spark-gap checkers is a nice tool instead of zapping yourself by holding the lead near the engine block. But the local auto parts joint had a 6 volt coil in stock for only $20, so I figured I may as well just check that out, for all the time I'd been dumping into this. It required a little gimcrackery to get the ignition lead to the front of the coil in the engine bay. But it just fired right up and I could not believe how smooth the idle sounded. Quick check to tweak the timing back to TDC. I let it warm up for several minutes, come off the fast idle cam on the choke, and it runs much nicer now. Drove it for a half-hour on a warm day, and it just pounces off the idle now. Whole different car, seriously. Drove it straight up the hill that has the stop sign in the middle of it and no hesitation or stumble now. Where did all this power come from? It's still a heavy car and underpowered by modern standards, but it drove like I remember it running. Practically leaps off the line. Finally. Now re-check the carb tune, and it is very much more responsive to carb adjustment, and the idle speed can be adjusted all the way down to the 500 rpm given in the manual without any trouble. What's the moral of the story? Well, "99% of carburetor problems are electrical," that's for sure. And the coil check was simple, but the annoying firewall installation of the coil discouraged me from checking it earlier. Have to stop getting suckered into checking and fixing things just because they're easy and accessible. I think I'd do almost anything to avoid crawling under the dash. And I also should have trusted my ear when it was telling me that it was missing intermittently (and not on any one cylinder). Smooth running is a good thing to pay attention to. But also, I want to thank the forum for being here and full of questions and for the people who have the good sense to answer "Just keep at it, you'll figure it out. Track it down, these cars aren't rocket science." Of course, I went down some blind alleys based on irrelevant questions... Now I have to make the coil install look a little prettier. There are a few people on the web who have the original style 6 volt coils with the primary lead on the back, but boy, do they want serious money for them. Cheapest I saw was $140, and it's NOS, so who knows how sound it is and how long it'll last? Others want $200. I'm gonna stay with the off-the-rack coil, I reckon.
  6. 5 points
    ntxcustoms

    Saying hello again

    It's been awhile maybe 5 since I've posted? Had a 39 dodge coupe and wound up selling it. Anyway life, the shop, other projects...and time flew by. So me loves me Mopars! I've gone through 5 (39-46) dodge trucks and 2 (1.5 ton) COEs in that time. I still have a half ton dodge truck I'm currently building. Anyway it's been too long since I've had a running car to scoot around in. I own a rod/resto shop but always focus on getting customer rides done. That changed this last weekend when I picked up this sweet 41 Plymouth deluxe coupe. It's to solid to go chopping and all that, but I am installing disk brakes and doing the ol' shock relocation thing. I've drooled over this coupe since the previous owner mentioned he may sell it. Half a year later and its mine!
  7. 5 points
    The car when we stopped for fuel in New Ulm. The mileage calculated to 17 mpg!
  8. 5 points
    In a previous thread the discussion was centered around whether or not a bypass filter is needed and the best oil for our mature engines. Based on that discussion and pondering this topic for a few days after pulling the oil pan I decided to install a spin-on filter on my non-filtered engine. I've seen a couple of photos on the forum of filter installations but decided to offer a more complete tutorial for the benefit of owners who may want to explore a filter installation. I chose a mount and filter from Wix because they offer a mount and selection of filters that are specifically for bypass operation. Bypass filters are constructed differently from full-flow filters and provide a finer degree of filtration than conventional filters. I sourced the mount and filter from Rock Auto who have not only the filter I use but also the same filter in three additional lengths. I selected the next to shortest due to the confined space around the engine. Here is the mount, part number WIX 24755: Note the arrows indicating the proper direction of flow. This mount is only for bypass installations and has a small 5/8" nipple instead of the more common 3/4" seen on full-flow installations. It also has 1/8" NPT threads that allow 3/16" steel brake lines to be attached with only one 90* adapter. The filter is WIX 51051: The other Wix bypass filters that fit this mount are 51050, 51320, and 51704. A bracket must be fabricated to attach the mount to the engine block. I used 1/8" steel and drilled it for the mount and two studs on the engine head: The two fittings on the engine accept 3/16" brake lines with no modification. I found 12" lines to be ideal for this installation. Accessing the fittings and getting the threads straight deep in the engine compartment is kinda tedious....just consider it a character-building experience. Permatex #2 (non-hardening) gasket sealer was used on the brass fitting where they screwed in the filter mount. I've seen teflon tape used in situations like this but that is risky in oil systems unless you really know what you are doing. A small sliver of tape that breaks loose can create havoc if it plugs an oil passage. A couple of thick washers are behind the bracket to provide clearance for the heads of the bolts securing the filter mount. The threads in the cylinder head are common 3/8" and the nuts on the studs are 3/8" fine thread. One of the studs backed out so I replaced it with a bolt. Prior to installing the filter I filled it with oil. This photo shows the difference between a bypass filter and full-flow---notice the tiny holes through which oil flows in/out of the filter. Filling the filter was very tedious....if I had to do this very often I would rig up some sort of syringe to push oil into the filter instead of spending 1/2 hour adding oil a fraction of an ounce at a time. The filter accepted a cupful of oil before it was satisfied. The finished installation complete with a note on the mileage and date of filter change. The oil lines need to be formed for clearance so the filter can be easily changed. Yes, this is not for those who want a period-correct engine bay, but I like having a modern filter which can be easily sourced through common channels. If my engine is happy....I'm happy.
  9. 5 points
    13th ANNUAL CLEMENTS TAILGATE BBQ APRIL 4TH 2020 SATURDAY 9AM TIL WHENEVER EARLY TOW-IN BEGINS NOW AND LATE TOW-OUT ENDED YESTERDAY Show up Thursday or Friday and Camp-Out til Sunday or Monday, always need the Help! "Lucky 13teen" Its the best day ever! Old trucks and old friends! The car guys are part of the whole deal too, but man, I love the trucks! Its the place where the largest number of Dodge Pilot-House Era Trucks meet in the whole WORLD !!! (at least no one's proven otherwise ..lol) The people I've met over the last 12 BBQ's has made my life so much better. This time of year is so awesome because finishing an old truck actually has meaning to the crowd you'll see here! Fenders and bumpers to hang on, hoods to lift, parts to swap, and stories to tell! I look forward to it all. Every year is special with returning long distant travelers and new ones that are finally able to make the trip! I always look forward to meeting you all! If you have an old frail beater truck that is weak on the road.....trailer it here early! I'll keep it here on the ranch til show day and you can pick it up when you can.....save your energy for the best weekend ever! ITS A BBQ, NOT A FOO FOO CAR SHOW!! *what is a "foo foo"?* If you have a "Real Bitchin" Shoebox, Shovelhead, Stovebolt, A-Bomb, Backhalf, Barn Find, Basket Case, Chopped Up, Belly Pan, Boat Tail, Nailhead, Pancaked, Resto Rod, ........well, Bring-It-On-Down, me and my friends got a few Dodge Trucks for you'all to see!!! I love Hot Rods and Muscle Cars too.....it is an awesome time to show off the hard work we all put into these old rigs and no need to fuss, Its all Good! ...no mini coopers please...., yea, go ahead and bring one, they're kinda cool. It really is my favorite time of the year. Happy 13teen guys. "The car crowd is growing and more than welcome to come. I could easily call it "The Tailgate/Trunk BBQ"!" "I can't tell you how much I look forward to this every year, its a blast and for some, lasts a few days. Campers show up on Thursday or Friday and leave on a Sunday morning.....all enjoying late night chat sessions around the fire pit." "I hope new and old members alike are inspired to make the trip and maybe even drive their trucks the distance....you know we have your back! " "So many good stories around the fire pit the nights before and after the event. I can't tell how cool it is to have forum members stay several days and just relax....." "Looking forward to a great party! Now build it, and bring it!!!" "It was around 2007 when Bob Koch, Jim Shepard, and myself (Tim Estrada), went to Reg Evans' place to check out his "yard". While we were eating hotdogs, drinking cold beverages, solving international and regional issues....we thought "lets have a BBQ". "Get the wheels on, and the tanks full....its time to finish up and git to the Q! It ain't no beauty pageant of trailer queens, its a truck show...so flex your rust as well as your shine!" Tim aka 48Dodger
  10. 5 points
    Michael Sams

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    Guys this is what I'm going to be working with. But I guess you have to start somewhere. I will be the official second owner of this beauty. And have the whole history on this truck. It's going to be a long road but I'm in for the long haul. I can't wait to get it back up and running and start to drive it. Thanks for all the help so far and hope that I might be able to call on you all for some help.
  11. 5 points
    pflaming

    Age 80, a new normal

    I’m there, 81 in September so best to say some thankyous. (1) Names very difficult but Plymouthy Adams, Tim Estrada, Casper 50, Bob Riding quickly emerge. (2) Quick, unexpected passing of friends and relatives. Lost two, one with a six month illness, the other a 60 day illness. (3) personal note: my health seems to be good, only two pills per day, eye sight is fine, no apparent heart or lung problems. But do have a severe hearing loss, I.e., cannot hear without my hearing aid, and now struggling with leg strength (4) forum gratitude : when I started 12 years ago did not understand intake vs exhaust manifold, , the three essentials for an engine to run, the difference between an engine and a motor, negative/ positive ground, body vs chassis. This forum taught me mechanical skills, personal tolerance, better respect for alternate views, religion, politics, and profanity are toxic, the means and value of internet friendships. Few things have been as enjoyable, rewarding, mental expansion as what I have enjoyed this past decade. So then, my unreserved, heartfelt gratitude to each and all. I trust this post is premature, but better that than never. Paul Flaming aka pflaming
  12. 4 points
  13. 4 points
    Fargone

    Yep it's Hemi orange!

    The engine is an over sized 251 that I thought was a 265, but with help from Tim and George at Aok I've got a really strong and cool engine. George supplied cam, triple carb intake, rebuilt the carbs, crafted the throttle linkage and carved up my exhaust manifolds. Keith Black Racing actually had pistons for this thing not forged but nice cast units. All that's left is about 2000 small and medium sized jobs to finish her. The guys at Pro Stock Performance Machining asked if I wanted the factory engine color for my engine or if they could use hemi orange.
  14. 4 points
    BobT-47P15

    Mopar Hoarders...Good guys?

    I read an editorial in Hemmings Classic Car recently where the editor, who has been fighting cancer, is advocating that if you can't sell your stockpile of extra parts....give them away to people you meet who can use them. That way they will hopefully get used instead of your widow and kids having them hauled to the dump. And, you can ask the recipient to "pay" for the stuff by making a donation to a charity. Not such a bad idea in my book.
  15. 4 points
    HotRodTractor

    Fed Up

    Here is another vote for no aluminum. Go with Nickel Copper. Easy to cut and bend, and holds up a lot better.
  16. 4 points
    Brent B3B

    Sun Visor Mounting Bracket Color

    😘
  17. 4 points
    Note to self...."bring grass from California"......uh, wait.... 48D
  18. 4 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    Fed Up

    change your condenser...….inspect your points for signs of over current ie bluing....I bet it runs like new money out of gear....
  19. 4 points
    ggdad1951

    Todd Build Thread

    done for now, primed and painted...what's next on the list?
  20. 4 points
    Todd B

    Todd Build Thread

    You don’t know Mark very well.
  21. 4 points
    Bobacuda

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    Michael - I have restored a B4B, long wheel base with Fluid Drive. Take LOTS of photos and expect frustration on a regular basis. When you rewire it, make the wires behind the dash longer than original - it will make your life MUCH easier when you put it back together or have to change a light bulb (I wish someone had warned me to do that). If you get stuck on something, I might have a photo that will help. Oh, and if you have the one year only plastic Dodge emblem from the dash (Brent's photo), be darn careful with it and not club-fisted like me. The little metal clips on the mounting prongs work great for breaking off the prongs, and clumsy fingers are great for breaking the script. On top of that, it isn't really made of plastic, its made from pure Unobtanium. Brent's photo is the one from my truck that I kinda broke twice, glued back together, painted the back white and got mounted in my truck. Photo is my truck at Luckenbach, TX. Good luck working on your "Time Machine." Bob
  22. 4 points
    keithb7

    We and the Windsor 2018

    Was nice to get out for a summer cruise tonite. The old Chrysler is running very well. My ’38 is getting most of my time and attention this summer. Additionally, my wife is renovating so we haven’t been getting out cruising much this season. I saw tons of thumbs up tonite while out cruising. Even the girl at drive-thru for ice creme l was smiling and offered positive comments. I walked out to a parking lot to find a fellow illegally parked, his drivers door left wide open. He was taking 4-corner shots of my Chrysler. It feels good to see other folks appreciating and enjoying these old cars. I get a kick out of some folks reactions.
  23. 4 points
  24. 3 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    48 Plymouth wanted?

    if a loud busy sounding engine is a bother to you when driving at speed...turn down the hearing aide and press down on the accelerator...
  25. 3 points
    Sam Buchanan

    Engine Mounts, P15; Caution

    The information in this thread is scattered over multiple threads with unrelated titles. For archiving purposes the info is condensed in this thread so future owners can more easily find it. The rear engine mounts in my '48 P15 were totally shot so I ordered new ones from Andy Bernbaum. They arrived promptly and looked like the mounts I've seen advertised from other vendors. The lower mount was thicker than my old set so longer, 4-inch bolts were necessary to install the mounts. The engine could be jacked up sufficiently to insert the upper mount into the frame crossmember. I noticed the new mounts were quite hard....it wasn't possible to press a thumbnail into the material. I pulled the bolts up snug and everything looked as it should. As soon as the engine fired for the first test drive it was obvious a large amount of vibration was being transmitted into the car. Matter of fact, it was really unpleasant. After the first test drive I backed off the torque on the bolts and tested again. Significant vibration was still present, especially around 40mph in third gear. The engine smoothed out at higher speed. I have changed to nyloc nuts on the bolts so they can be torqued only enough to hold the mounts and lower washers in place. There is still more vibration that I like....but it seems obvious these mounts are made out of a material that is much firmer than needed. The reason for this thread is to caution owners that hard mounts are out there.....and you don't want them! Posts on the forum have indicated that softer mounts are available and if anyone knows a source for softer mounts it would be greatly appreciated if that info could be provided. This is another case of replacing worn-out parts but ending up with a situation that is not what we expected.....old cars can be a character-building process.....
  26. 3 points
    Frank Elder

    Wired Correctly?

    Heres mine.....
  27. 3 points
    Merle Coggins

    Testing a ballast resistor

    When there is an open circuit (not a completed circuit to ground) there won’t be any current flow. Without current flow the resistor won’t drop the voltage. Hence you have the same voltage readings at both ends. When you add another load (ie. the coil) to the circuit and current flows you will be able to measure the voltage drops across both loads. Or you would need to measure the resistance value, in Ohms, and calculate the voltage drop(s) using Ohms Law. Voltage = Amperage X Resistance (V = I x R)
  28. 3 points
    You’re getting in early Tim 😷 I had hoped to be there in 2020, but life (or my soon to be ex-wife) threw me a curve ball 😩 I’ll be in Canada early next year, but will certainly look at bringing my new life-partner to the 2021 BBQ. She’s just itching to drive my 53 truck when I get back on track again. well wishes to all my BBQ buddies.
  29. 3 points
    Big Easy

    What is my pickup worth?

    I love the fluid drive, I wouldn’t swap it for anything. If you feel like being all “farmer brown” and stuff, you can run her through the gears... but if your working on a burger and shake driving her around town, it sure comes in handy. And synchro shmynchro... I feel very noble and at one with my late Granpa when I take ten seconds to double-clutch coax her into the next gear.
  30. 3 points
    One tired elephant.
  31. 3 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    Tiny coolant line

    let me run my flag of qualification up the pole.....
  32. 3 points
    Sam Buchanan

    Refurbishing Steering Wheel

    Frank, I selected an exquisite JB Weld product from the auto restoration department of Lowes. This stuff starts firing off in about 5-6 minutes so I only mixed up a one-inch long bead each time. My steering wheel was in pretty good shape, the only large cracks were on the back side. A Dremel was used to open up the cracks so the epoxy could be forced into the cracks. To facilitate that process masking tape was firmly applied over the epoxy repairs to help it flow into the wounds. After an hour the tape was removed. Even though the epoxy was a little tacky it sanded very easily with 120 sandpaper. After some quality time priming and sanding the repairs and entire wheel, it received several luscious coats of Rustoleum Gloss Black and the paint is curing in the warm shop as we speak. Reassembly is complete and the ol' girl should be back on the road and no longer insulting her driver by gifting smudged hands.
  33. 3 points
    51_Meadowbrook

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    Inspired by John and Adam, I taught my friend how to drive the old Meadowbrook. It was completely different to finally ride passenger in the car.
  34. 3 points
    Dan Hiebert

    Refurbishing Steering Wheel

    If there are cracks, might as well fix them now. File them out in a V shape down to the base of the crack, even if it's to the metal core. Then fill with two-part epoxy putty. Pits and chips can be filled this way too, always best to rough-up the surface you will be applying the putty to, and don't apply it to a painted surface. The epoxy putty is supposed to stand up to expanding/contracting better than body filler. Sand, prime, paint. I used rattle cans. I used Krylon's "Khaki", much lighter than the original tan, but I like it better. I used rattle cans to have a ready source for touch-ups. Before: After: This has been through some serious freeze / thaw cycles since, with a couple hair-line cracks showing up that I really have to look for to find.
  35. 3 points
    180 to 190 is an ideal temperature for your engine to run at.
  36. 3 points
    Worden18

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    8-1-19: I'm still here fellas! Been super busy at work and with the sale of our home. The closing is over, now I should have more time to do the things I really want to do, like work on the Meadowbrook and the 48 B1D. Anyway, tonight was another driving lesson for my daughter. I worked the accelerator while she did the clutch pedal and shifted through the gears to get us going. Then she traveled about 40 to 45 miles an hour for about 8 Miles and then came to a stop on the side of the road, pushed in the clutch pedal, put the car in neutral, and pulled the ebrake. She's doing better each time. She doesn't want to drive any of our other cars. Just the Meadowbrook!
  37. 3 points
    Bbdakota

    The Windward 48 dodge survivor

    Recieved the new cables, as suggested. I ordered 1/0. I had no trouble starting the car with the small cables currently on the car but cruisin the coast is fast approaching and I'll be relying on this thing starting when heat soaked.....for days. Just a little feel good insurance.
  38. 3 points
    40plyrod

    Rust free 40 plymouth sedan

    Quick update. I hosted a BBQ for some car buddies that came up for the big Deuce Days car show held in Victoria, BC and now I'm finally ready and revved up to get going on putting this engine together. I spent some time this weekend l trying to lap the valves and see how they're seating the conclusion is that I'm going to have to grind the valves and seats. Pictures Pictures 1-3) BBQ held at my place for some car folk (Green Fargo belongs to dpollo and black 32 with the shower cap belongs to mrwstory) Picture 4) valves after an attempt at lapping (the best ones shown) Trip to dpollo for seat and valve grinding in the near future Picture 5) some assembly required Picture 6) switched off the too small white walls for white rims and black walls
  39. 3 points
    MarkB2PW

    Rattlesnakes

    I'm going to chime in because I live in the foothills of Northern California that are full of rattlesnakes. My property is semi remote so I can use guns when necessary. When we first moved in 23 years ago we had rattlers every spring. Having small kids at the time, I had a "the only good rattler is a dead rattler" policy. My wife and I killed many, and now we don't have them. Maybe 1 per year. We have gopher snakes, milk snakes and garter snakes to keep the rodent population down. The bite from a rattler can be deadly but is also going to rot the flesh around the bite area (see google images). I'll spare you my snake stories because it's a car site. I have not yet run one over with the p15 yet, but, I will at the first opportunity.
  40. 3 points
    The tiny circle in the middle of the headlamp switch lites up when the hi-beams are on. I had no idea. This car is totally foreign to me. The old concepts totally new to me. I don’t know anyone locally with a car like this. Lol. Those crafty Chrylser engineers....They are schoolin’ me 81 years later. Getting back on track now cleaning up more wiring.
  41. 3 points
  42. 3 points
  43. 3 points
    Cold Blue

    Changing Ground Cable Location

    When I got my car, the ground cable was attached at the front head bolt. But I moved it to the factory location at the generator mounting bracket bolt. I just didn't like the looks of it at the top of the engine, and I didn't like tightening a head bolt with the ground cable end under it. Probably makes no difference, but makes me feel better. Yes, it's a bit of a pain to install it, but how many times will I have to replace the ground cable? Hopefully years from now or never? Just my 2 cents worth....
  44. 3 points
  45. 3 points
    I know it's your car and you make the decisions, and I know there are lot of guys on here that are for doing anything and everything to modify these old cars, but I would like to put in my two cents for keeping it original with 6 volts. And I also like the original oil bath air cleaner, even though there are many here who prefer to update that to a paper filter. Sometimes I don't know why the guys who want everything to be modern don't just buy a Dodge Demon or a Plymouth Duster, rather than a 48. I don't mind putting on modern radial tires and modern paint and all that, but just prefer to keep the other things historically correct. It will mean your wiring harness will cost more if you get the correct cloth covered type, but you can keep your original gauges, and radio, clock, etc. You did a very nice job polishing that up. Congrats on getting a great car! Plymouth Builds Great Cars!
  46. 3 points
    Bizzy coupes are cool. Had mine for 49 years.
  47. 3 points
    1949 Wraith

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    I just had my 1951 Dodge delivered a couple of days ago. She is in overall very good shape, as she is a Canadian build DG1(B3B) that spent her whole life in eastern Canada. The gentleman I bought it from had her for 35 years and he bought it of the the original owners estate, so I am the third owner. She had a few changes: Ford 9" rear end, radials and 12 volt. Also the last owner also converted the 3 speed to a top loader for a floor shift. I'm happy with everything i've found so far as I'm checking everything out before her safety inspection next week.
  48. 3 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    ‘53 Plymouth coupe purchase

    looks two tone to me...light rust, dark rust...🤡
  49. 2 points
    Gives me the willies just looking at it; can't imagine me getting under that contraption. 😁
  50. 2 points
    Sam Buchanan

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    Love this photo! Reminds me of the days when I was learning to drive in our '56 Savoy.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use