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  1. 8 points
    52b3b Joe

    48 Desoto Project

    It's black again! It went pretty good. No runs or sags, and minimal to no orange peel, BUT (there's always a but lol) I had some moisture problems with the air compressor. I ended up with quite a few spots on the final coat that I'm not too happy about. I'm hoping I'll be able to wet sand and buff them out, but we'll see. I am definitely happy with the body work though!
  2. 8 points
    Bob Riding

    New NOS Seller in Selma

    California, not Alabama! I was looking on eBay for the center grill piece for my '52 Suburban and found it for a very good price, AND the seller was located in a little town about 30 miles away, so I made arrangements to pick it up. The location originally was the home of an old lumber yard in the downtown, and when I walked into the yard, there sat a restored P15 Club Coupe. I wondered how extensive his inventory of Mopar parts might be- turns out very extensive with lots of NOS parts! The owner, Steve Rothholz has been buying and selling 30s-60s parts for a long time and has an eBay store: http://stores.ebay.com/forthebeachonly I spent some time with Steve and he told me that he is constantly buying parts and that it's a bit of an addiction. I think I resemble that remark! He is part owner in Globe Auto Wrecking, which has been in business since 1938. He currently has multiples of NOS parts (some in the original box) including brakes, engine stuff, body, interior and exterior trim, hubcaps, etc. He has over 900 cars in various local salvage yards, including Turner's Auto Wrecking in Fresno. He mentioned that he also has a number of Mopar engines available for sale including ones with Spitfire heads. He wants to move inventory so his prices are very reasonable. For example, the NOS P15 radio grilI (below) is $50 on his eBay store. Because he has so much inventory, only a fraction of it is listed on eBay. I suggested that he join the Forum and register, and maybe run a banner ad, so our members can benefit. He welcomes phone inquiries.Here is his contact info: Steve Rothholz 2135 McCall Ave Selma, CA (559) 352-1407 fourthebeachonly@hotmail.com
  3. 6 points
    David Conwill

    A Reintroduction

    If you look at my older posts, you’ll see that I joined up for a different reason, but I’m glad I did. Late last fall, I purchased a 1960 Dodge D200 Utiline pickup from a friend. It was running when he bought it, but a broken weld on the radiator support dropped the radiator into the fan and it has been sitting since. It’s nothing fancy, but it will make a solid transportation/work truck for me—preferable to a used Dakota, S10, or Ranger and all the associated electrical gremlins of older late-model vehicles. To get the truck back on the road, I need to troubleshoot the rear lighting (I have taillights, but no brake lights), replace the fuel tank, fix the radiator, and re-do the shift linkage. That last bit has proved to be the biggest hurdle. The column shifter on the T85 was removed by a previous owner and discarded. I have most of the missing pieces gathered up, but I’m still in need of a control rod and a shift lever before I can replace the floor shifter. I know the Power Giants are a little late for this forum, but as the last of the flatheads, I figure the folks here will appreciate them a bit more than the Sweptline folks. This one is going to remain all stock unless some deviation aids keeping it on the road. The only possible exception is if I get a wild hair someday and decide to attempt putting a Megasquirt EFI system on the 230, and perhaps an Edgy high-compression flathead. No questions currently, I just wanted to say hi. Thanks for looking!
  4. 6 points

    Newly cleaned and painted engine

    Finally got the old red paint and grim off my engine and repainted to silver using POR-15 engine enamel. Painted the valve covers and timing chain cover black and am painting the oil pan black as well to provide some contrast. Happy with the POR-15 product but we will see what happens once the engine is running again. Next big job, strip and paint the frame...
  5. 6 points
    Not kidding. Get it!! They are great and unusual cars with only 345 made in 1951 and I am the lucky owner of one! The car is actually much further along than the second picture shows. All body parts are now on and all wiring completed. Basically just the interior left. Just showed the driver's side as the green fender made me choose the colour I did. I remember as a kid that a lot of these cars were the green shown. Colour is slightly different to what shows as the car is under fluorescent lights. Keep your Chrysler as well. These kind of deals do not come often and if the car checks out well, you can always find room or rent a space somewhere. You only live once!! Carpe Diem!! I did manage to sneak another picture in to show where the car is presently at in its restoration.
  6. 5 points

    Edgy heads being poured now

    As someone who stepped up to the plate 10 yrs ago and bought a finned Head for the 230 i was building from Earl and after freight it cost over $1200.00 Australian I would suggest that one reason for the cost of these is purely an economic one based on the market size.........I sincerely hope that they HAVE to make hundreds if not thousands to satisfy the demand but unfortunately that may not be the case so the smaller number that are made result in a higher cost............just hope it remains a viable proposition for all concerned..........andyd.
  7. 5 points

    We and the Windsor 2018

    Inspired by @Worden18 and his Meadowbrook thread , I decided that I will host a thread of my 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe this season. I was thinking about why I wanted to do this. Why share my year of travels and interactions in my old Mopar on the internet? I think there are several good reasons. None really more important than any other. Arguably it could summed up as just plain cool. It feels good to know that here at P15-D24, there are many others who share my passion for the old Mopars. We have a lot in common. We have lots to share. The good folks here care about keeping these old cars running and out on the roads. And if like me, enjoy reading other's adventures. Seeing the sites in another part of the world is fun. Every photo tells a thousand words. I hope there will be lots to show and tell this coming season. I also want to give back a little to this forum. The help I found here is much appreciated. Maybe I can repay you folks a little by giving you a little entertainment. Here we go.... My car season is anxiously beginning as temps are forecasted to hit 17C (62F) over the next few days. That'll kick start the big snow melt. My Chrysler is ready to cruise now after a busy winter. We sold our home and moved in the middle of my planned winter car repair schedule. Then we went on a 10 day trip to a much warmer climate. Since I got back home and settled, I've been busting my knuckles getting everything I wanted done to the car before the April 1 deadline. That's when Vintage Car Club Parade is. I'm not sure who's more excited. My 19 yr old son or I, for the cruising season. He's almost found daily out in the garage, sitting in the car making vroom- vroom noises. "Feeling the new brakes and clutch pedal adjustments", he says. Tonight my car is jockey'd up in the garage ready to get out. Hopefully the snow on the sides of the roads get knocked back enough this weekend to keep water off the pavement. Then it's go time. Cruising 2018 is but just around the bend here.
  8. 5 points

    Flathead Guru?

    Thanks for the compliment and I agree that it's just as good to cut the steel head and detail the motor with nice paint and acorn nut covers on the head bolts. Carbs and exhaust. One of the best options on my wagon is the overdrive. Makes the car a true driver. I had a t5 ready to install with one of dave's vintage metal works adapter kits but once I got the car sorted out and the overdrive working I couldn't bring myself to cut that hole in the floor. I'm so glad I kept it period correct
  9. 5 points
    I always believe one should build their cars however they want and to hell with what anyone else says. That being said, a Chevy and been done, redone and overdone. Everybody and their brother drops a 350/350 combo into all makes and then thinks they have something special. I modify every car I own so I'm not giving you the "purist" point of view either, and it doesn't have to have a Chevy in it to be a daily driver. For a few bucks more you could drop the 270 in it Plymouthy was talking about and be just as reliable but the cool factor goes to a new high. I really enjoyed dropping a 440 in a pre-war Chevy coupe and sticking it to the SBC crowd though. You are in the right place and just because you're dropping a V8 in your car doesn't make you unwelcome here. I completely disagree with anyone who tells you to go to the HAMB, like your modified car is not welcome here. Read the P15-D24 banner, I think some people have never read the description to the right. Adam
  10. 5 points
    Good news, rain ended up less than forecast! Creek is flowing pretty good but no flooding danger for this round. :-)
  11. 5 points
    Thanks for the compliment! It is going to be a driver, not a trailer queen. I had the engine professionally rebuilt and I intend to put a lot of miles on it. I'm 69 and hope to be driving this car for 10-15 years and try to wear it out. LOL One trip I want to do is from where I live in Lethbridge, Alberta to Vancouver Island to visit dpollo, also on this thread, who has helped me with advice and lots of difficult to find parts. About 800 miles one way.
  12. 5 points

    50 Coronet project

    Yep, new tanks are a couple hundred dollars. I made this because I wanted to. I like the challenge. Keeps the mind active when doing things like this and I always learn something. Greg
  13. 4 points
    52b3b Joe

    48 Desoto Project

    I finally finished the cut and buff on the paint, this weekend. My arms are pretty sore! It looks good for a DIY job in a dirty garage. I also put the rear fenders on for the last time! I still need to push the fender welt in though and tighten the bolts.
  14. 4 points

    Sbc in 50 plymouth

    If your main concern with the rebuild of the flat head is 'money' then that concern should still be there with an engine swap. Because you have the sbc and box doesn't mean it will be a cheap or an easy install. The best budget option would be to find a good running flat head. This would also be the fastest way of getting your Plymouth/Dodge on the road.
  15. 4 points
    ready for installation... mission accomplished...
  16. 4 points

    water tube question

    this is an endoscopic view from the inside of the cooling tube channel....
  17. 4 points
    tested the flag today, I think it will make from the motel in Lodi to the ranch
  18. 4 points

    265 Dampner

    '40 Club, You definitely should have a vibration dampener on an automotive application! All of us, face the same clearance issues when we replace a 23" engine with a 25" one. A readily available solution is to use a Canadian passenger car dampener. It is a combination dampener and pulley, that shortens the front crankshaft area dimension by approximately 1" and also has a smaller diameter. Illustrated below is my (upside down) 265 with this set-up! Walt
  19. 4 points

    1942 chrysler windsor

    Hello everybody what a rare find i got here ! a 1942 windsor, canadian built, but the cnadian and american chrysler are the same but i wanna be sure of this someone have details about this? here my new 42 chrysler ^^
  20. 4 points

    Chrysler A161 Prototype Hemi

    I feel like I have seen more pictures of the prototype hemi 6 that was based on our favorite Flathead. Please post them up! I'm a fan of early curiosities. Also - didn't I recall that someone had either the original setup, or a reproduction of the setup at one point in time? Phillips Performance perhaps? It was a long time ago I remember reading that it existed, but I don't recall any pictures or other evidence other than I read it on the internet so it must be true. Jason
  21. 4 points

    Sun D1 Tach

    Sorry about the no photo thread. let's try this again
  22. 4 points
    Merle Coggins

    Define Irony.

  23. 4 points
    greg g

    Newspaper Archives

    From spring of 47 before city dales tax enacted. Prices for used cars still high from war years.
  24. 4 points
    I know that Julie is pretty keen on these old trucks... I reckon its the other way around and she's actually bringing Brent along to the BBQ
  25. 4 points
    52b3b Joe

    48 Desoto Project

    Today was spent wet sanding and buffing (just when I thought we were done with sanding on this car...). We took the car down to 2000 grit and I hit it with a course compound to start bring back the shine. The next step will be a fine polish, then hand glaze. The water in the paint made a lot of craters that are down the the primer in spots. We sanded out what we could, but some we are going to have to live with. I touched up all of them with a brush before I quit today, and am hoping I can wet sand them lightly again to make them go away. I'm pretty happy with how it is coming out. It's just going to be a driver, not a show car. It's a little hard to believe the drivers side is as straight as it is with all the damage it had!
  26. 4 points
    Don Coatney

    My first classic

    I do believe that 4 door cars have done more to increase the population than 2 door cars have.
  27. 4 points

    My first classic

  28. 4 points
    Don Coatney

    Holy crap! Glass prices

    Cost of living going up. Who cares? You cant take it with you. Spend it all and enjoy it. Chance of living going down. You worked hard all your life to make this small fortune but it will not buy an increase in your chance of living. Spend it all and enjoy it. You cant take it with you and the beer delivery truck is lurking around the next bend in the road.
  29. 4 points

    Take care buying parts long distance.

    I've had a few ads on different forums for a rear bumper and center chrome hood strip. I was contacted by a guy in New York state a couple of weeks ago. Said he had them and would sell them for $300. Had been rechromed 5 years ago and stored inside since. I asked for photos. He kept sending me really bad ones over a 10 day period. Made me think that he was cropping a web photo and enlarging it. He told me that he was 71 years old and wasn't tech savvy. I asked for a photo with a can or bottle on the bumper. Last I heard from him. Alway at least ask for a photo with something that you come up with in it. That way it's not just pulled off of the web
  30. 4 points

    47 1/2 ton, 4BT cummins

    Took my 99 3/4 ton Dodge to the local Cummins mechanic today. He was in a talkative mood, said " Want to see my trucks?". Sure. Very nice 47 with a 4BT cummins, turbo 350. One sweet swap. Sounds bad. then, his 4wd Little Red Wagon. 6 cylinder cummins. No picture, it was too tight in the trailer.
  31. 4 points
    Thanks for the compliment. The original was plastic and beyond saving. I thought I had found a correct Canadian metal one for the car based on the part number provided by the seller. It turned out to be for the US Dodge and would not fit my car. I noticed that the bolts holes were the same size though so modified the US medallion. Canadian Dodge is really a Plymouth with Dodge trim (Plogde) and the medallion needed a bit more curvature to it. I put it on the edge of my bench and gently bent it to fit. First time perfect except I did damage the black in it. I used a filler there and painted it black. Up close you can notice if I point it out but otherwiswe it's hard to tell. Getting a new '51 Canadian Dodge medallion proved impossible for me so I improvised. As can be seen in the first picture the middle D is missing. Again, due to curvature, the D for a Canadian Dodge was a different part number than its US counterpart. I did find an NOS Canadian one from a Canadian supplier. Sometime you do get lucky! All other letters are original to the car but needed drilling, tapping, and a small bolt minus its head put in so I could get a nut on. All previous attachments were broken off or badly damaged. This was a long and laborious process but worked out OK.
  32. 4 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    Another 230 build thread

    this is why at our age they say that high cholesterol is such a problem for us...
  33. 4 points

    Todd Build Thread

    ok boys....feast your eyes....
  34. 3 points

    Sbc in 50 plymouth

    Seems some like to piss in other Wheaties! Stock steering clearance? Trans mount? Can he weld or have others do it? Here is a motor mount kit, trans mount kit to fit with 1" passenger offset for $300. http://www.butchscoolstuff.com/eng-trans-mounting-kits-4/ DJ
  35. 3 points
    Bringing this back so I can add to it. I finally got to road test it and I hadn’t made any other changes besides the intake and headers. The exhaust is y-piped into a single 2.25 pipe going through a stock 2010 Mustang GT muffler exiting before the rear tire. It sounds pretty good and works well. Engine is a fairly stock fresh 230 with a .030 overbore and .050 off the head, cam is stock. It has a modified slant 6 distributor, 1.5 ohm canister coil, HEI module and plugs set at .040. Using 7mm resistor wires. Went from the stock intake and exhaust and Carter carb. The ignition system was already done so it is not new. Other than taking a screwdriver to the Weber’s, I haven’t made any changes, they are Langdons out of the box First impressions: BOTTOM END improvement! Big difference down low! It idles really well and better throttle response all around. Even works ok with the Fluid Drive despite not having a dashpot but I may add one. 2000 rpm and punch it: good improvement. Slight bog when the secondaries open but it pulls through and if you roll into it, no bog at all. 3500-4500: I’m almost never there but I backed out at 4500 and it was still pulling so I’m definitely not running out of carb. Overall I’m very happy with the results. Hope this helps someone who is considering similar mods. Adam
  36. 3 points
    You only need the clutch for starting off, waiting for a long train, and for shutting down. If you had to, you could use a cane to work the clutch. Or come up with a Rube Goldberg contraption. Or find out what is available commercially. It sounds a lot easier than putting in an automatic transmission.
  37. 3 points
    https://www.chonday.com/25830/busterstunts5/ Buster Keaton did all of his own stunts in his silent movies. Between the scenes with old cars there are instances of great stunt work.
  38. 3 points
    I'll try to document my adventure in removal of a stuck oil pressure relief valve for others who may have a similar problem. Many of you will not have to go to the extremes I did and only need to try some of them. Maybe this will be a source to consider should you ever encounter similar problems. Symptoms: Excessive oil pressure can be noted by a pegged oil gauge. If your engine is equipped with an oil filter, oil may be forced past the oil filter gasket. Spin on filters may blow the gasket out of the oil filter no mater how much you tighten the filter. The high oil pressure reading may be only at startup and may be followed by low oil pressure afterward. Oil pressure relief valves can stick both ways, sticking closed at startup and open after warm up and exhibit low oil pressure. Remedy: An initial attempt at determining how stuck your relief valve is can give you some clue as to how far you will have to go to fix your problem. A newly installed relief valve that is well lubricated should easily slip in and out of its bore by inserting the tip of you pinky finger and pulling it out. In my case I started with it completely stuck and rusted fast. The best advice to start with is to attempt to lodge a 1/4 npt pipe tap into the end of the relief valve piston. the tip of the pipe tap may need to be ground down to facilitate a tight fit without bottoming out in the end of the piston. Use an open end or adjustable wrench to turn the pipe tap while taping the square end of the tap. The metal the piston is constructed of is case hardened and the threads of the tap will have difficulty biting into the metal. With a flash light, look past the tap to see if the piston is turning in the bore. If not, spray with PB Blaster and continue to work it alternating spraying and tapping the tap while turning it with a wrench. At some point if you are failing to make headway, it may be necessary to apply heat. The ability to concentrate as much heat to the inside of the relief valve piston will reap the most reward. An Acetylene torch will work best if you are fortunate enough to have one. Mapp gas can also work but you will not be able to concentrate the flame as much. Alternating the method mentioned in the last paragraph and heating with the torch. I found for my case which was one of the more extreme I had to heat the piston to red and allow it to cool before using the pipe tap and tapping. It may take a while but several heatings and coolings will gradually help to loosen the stuck valve. Do not heat the metal so much that you are seeing the metal melt and flow. Heat it slowly to red, and let it cool. The heating of the metal will serve two purposes. First the heating and contracting of the metal affects the hardened piston and the cast block differently. The piston will expand in the bore of the cast block and spread the bore slightly. as the metal cools the casting will tend to retain it shape while the hardened metal will more/less return to its original shape. The piston will also lose its hardness or temper making it easier for the pipe tap to get a bite. I'm my case the piston lost enough temper and the pipe tap got enough bite that the piston could then turn in its bore. I the used some emery cloth to shine up what was visible of the bore. I chucked the pipe tap in a drill and began working the pipe tap/piston back and forth in bore and gradually was able to pull the piston out. I cleaned up the bore best that I could so that the new piston was able to move freely in the bore. There were no easy remedy's in my case. Persistence and elbow grease, an acetylene wrench, accompanied with a little percussive persuasion was what it took to get the job done.
  39. 3 points

    We and the Windsor 2018

    You guys were right. So quiet now and no fumes! I got the tail pipe bling addressed too at the exhaust shop. I think My car drives as good or better than it ever has tonite. Quiet. Soft ride like a caddy. Good smooth power. Great Brakes. Radials. Full tune up. Valve grind and set. Idles like warm butter. It really feels like a new car. Very, very happy over here.
  40. 3 points

    Sbc in 50 plymouth

    I just wanted to thank you for saving the car, rather see it on the road with a sbc then in the scrap yard. Seems to me that a early 283 with the horseshoe mount would be dead simple, but any year sbc the mounts would not be difficult to fabricate. I think your big issue may be clearance with the steering box. That is where you need to research and see what others have done with the exhaust or even moving the box. Once you start getting into custom exhaust headers and or moving the steering box, A inline six could look like a good alternative. Either way, I like the idea of the sbc if I wanted to make a highway cruiser, I personally prefer a flathead to haul my arse to the lumber store and back. All about choices. ... I hope you make a build thread and keep us updated, always good to have some excitement around here Forgot to add, check clearances with the brake, clutch pedals mounted under the cab, just keep it in mind.
  41. 3 points

    We and the Windsor 2018

    The sun was out all day today. I took the opportunity to pull the car out of the garage into the light. First wash of the year. I also installed new seat belts today. 2 point lap belts. Nice dark green colour to match too. I am quite happy with the product from seatbeltsplus.com Of course we had to cruise my neighbourhood to test the seat belts. All my new neighbours seemed quite happy to see my old car out. Lots of melting today. The car sits about 2" lower overall now with the proper stock sized tires installed. I think I want to try and lower the rear end a little to have it either sit flat or a little lower than the front. Mine is about 1.5" taller at the rear compared to the front. I am thinking I will order a 2" block kit. In all the original '53 ads I have seen, the rear ends appear a little lower than the front.
  42. 3 points

    1951 dodge Business Mans Coupe

    Several points need clarification before you proceed. D 54 is the engineering code for a 55 model built in Canada which was powered by a 251 6 cylinder engine. There is no such engine as a 231 but you need to know that cars built in Canada used an engine which was 2 inches longer than their US cousins. There was no model called the Regal, however in Canada there was a mid line model called the Regent. Dodge , in Canada used a 228 cu inch engine and later a 251. In the USA, a 230 cubic inch engine was used through 1959. Its cylinder head measured 23 inches compared to the Canadian's 25. You have not identified your coupe by its engineering code, which is likely D39. Maybe, given this information, forum members will be able to help.
  43. 3 points

    Hint of spring

    Drove my car to work this morning; it was awesome
  44. 3 points

    '50 Plymouth brakes adjust or upgrade?

    For what it's worth, here's my two cents worth - I've been running original drum brakes on my '50 Deluxe since I bought the car four years ago with no problems. I had all the wheel cylinders rebuilt, and replaced the linings on the rear brakes after we discovered that the old linings had separated from the brake shoes. My mechanic then put everything back together, adjusted the brakes, checked the mc and all brake lines and the brakes have been fine ever since. I do mostly city driving with some highway driving, (about 1000+ miles per year) and have never had an issue with the drum brakes.
  45. 3 points
    15 is too young, 36 is too old, 24 is just right. Now you can remember. All straight 6 motors.
  46. 3 points

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    Fabbed up an alternator bracket to get that 1 wire down low and out of sight. Also fixed a stripped thermostat housing. Progress is a bit slow, but should be ready to start as soon as the starter arrives.
  47. 3 points
    Larry Leibhart

    Whose Truck Got A Workout?

    The pickup is a 1974 Dodge W350. Dually automatic transmission 360 V8 with a 4 10 rear end. The pickup started out as a government vehicle in the Bessey National Forrest (the largest man made forrest in the United States) at Halsey NE, thus the green color. From there it was purchased by an eccentric large 300 pound cowboy, known for riding horses fast and putting them up wet. He maintained his vehicles the same way. Some of the pickup's duties included chasing coyotes across the Nebraska sandhills and as a pusher vehicle at the local demolition derby. It was sold on his Dad's estate sale to a farmer neighbor Clifford Sterner. It was Clifford's first pickup with a bale unroller flatbed. He is now on his third. I purchased it 11/22/2005 for $3500. I planned on using it to feed cattle and to use the hydraulics to make a power soil sampler. I moved on to a different soil sampling system but kept the pickup around as a spare way to feed cattle when tractor is out of commission.
  48. 3 points
    52b3b Joe

    Clements BBQ raffle.

    I'll start this off at $100. It can be the first step in the cab over project!
  49. 3 points

    Another 230 build thread

    Went by the machine shop to check on progress ( they’ve had the block and parts for over two weeks now). They said they had to hot tank the block and spray it out several times to get all the crap out ( no surprise). When in brought the block in, I expressed my concern that I thought it might be cracked. They magnaflux the block and head twice and found no cracks. So, that’s good news. They cylinders will be bored .030 main and rods .010 head shaved .030 block shaved 0.010
  50. 3 points
    Don ranks right at the top of involved regulars on the site and is always willing to help answer a question! Thank you Don, for both your donation and your participation. Regards, GT