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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 16 points

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    1940 Plymouth Truck ,PT 105 ,98 % Original
  2. 10 points

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    My 1938 Dodge Brothers RC half ton. Picture taken about 20 years ago. It's seen a lot of work since then. Pete
  3. 8 points
    Matt Wilson

    Manifold Stud Replacement

    Ok, I have an update. This past Wednesday evening, I decided to give it a little go, by just trying the worst-looking stud. It was the rear-most stud. I turned the engine on its side (on the engine stand), took a pair of nuts, tightened them against each other and began applying some force with an open-end wrench on the bottom nut, in the loosening direction. At first, the nuts just turned on the stud, so I tightened up the nuts about as hard as I felt comfortable without stripping them. Then it was back at it with the wrench on the lower nut. To my surprise, the stud started to turn. I kept at it until I thought I could grip it with my vice-grips (not clamped down, but just using them like an ordinary pair of pliers) and I did this until the stud was out. Ok, I said, that went well....let's try another one. So I moved on to the next one and did the same thing. After the third or fourth one, I stopped using the two nuts and just used the vice-grips to get a very firm grip on the studs and removed them that way. Unbelievably, they all came out that way in less than an hour, except for the final one, which was the front-most one. I worked on that one for a little while, spraying penetrating oil and tapping with a brass mallet, grabbing with vice-grips, double-nutting it, etc., and it didn't budge. So....I let it sit with penetrating oil for a couple of days, till just a few minutes ago, when I went out there and tapped on it some more (actually several fairly sharp raps in all directions), then did the double-nut thing with the open-end wrench AND the vice-grips clamped down really tightly, placed 180 degrees opposite the wrench. I grabbed the wrench with one hand and vice-grips with the other and applied quite a bit of force to each. I was a little afraid I was getting close to the point where the stud could twist off, so was about to give up and try some heat, when.....voila!....the stud started to turn. So I kept at this until it was removed, though it fought me most of the way. But in the end, I prevailed. Now I have a nice, stud-free manifold mating surface. I'm glad I went ahead and did this. It was really a pretty small effort. I think I will now try to clean up the surface with a few light file strokes, or maybe a very brief/light sanding with my Black and Decker Mouse (which is a small orbital type of sander, I guess you'd say), as the manifold surface looks somewhat pitted. I suppose I could even take it back to my machinist and have him surface that region to get it really good, but not sure if need to do that and I'd prefer to avoid it if possible. Following that, I will clean out the threaded holes with a thread chaser, and spray the holes nice and clean with brake parts cleaner and install new studs with sealant or maybe anti-seize as suggested by MB Fowler in his post above. Thanks to everyone for the tips and more importantly for giving me the nudge to proceed with this. I was afraid it would going to turn into a nightmare, but it worked out amazingly well. I know it doesn't work out this way a lot of times, but I suppose I got lucky. I guess I was due, considering the trouble I've had with other areas of the project, LOL.
  4. 6 points
    My experience is a bit different. Dual Webers, shorty headers into a single 2.25 exhaust made a noticeable difference with no internal engine mods.
  5. 5 points
    Todd B

    severe storms in AL/GA

    What was the cause of bad storms 100 years ago????????
  6. 5 points


    new guy with a new toy 1953 Dodge Coronet ... barn car 33 k original miles came with a parts car
  7. 5 points
    Shave the head, two carbs and duals, with a slightly bigger cam than stock.....that will perk it right up if you damage anything with that simple combo then its operator error. All for less than $1,500.......
  8. 5 points

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    Location: Very South of Germany A quick prestory to the pictures ... Today I went to the Lake to go for a walk with the dog and taking some pictures of my 1939 PT ... But first a quick jump to the last weekend. Winter suddenly has stopped, rain had washed away the salt from the roads over night. I went to the lake early in the morning. Sun was just before rising up. I could see a yellow orange stripe along the horizon, super clear water, swans slowly waking up. What a panorama !!! From our side of the shore you can see the mountains of the Swiss Alps, if the sky is clear. That morning they where super clear, white shining snow on top. Simply perfect ! Unfortunately I neither had a camera nor my PT with me. So I decided to come back the next weekend ... Today morning , Feb. 23rd, 2019 something between 6.00 and 6.30 a.m. Knowing that there is just one access to the shore and it is strictly forbidden to enter it with a vehicle, I arrived a bit too early. Drove in with a slight bad conscience. Nobody was there. But today, no mountain view, just a grey haze. No swan just some scattered ducks. No orange horizon. Damned. Since I took the risk to get serious trouble, I yet decided to take some quick shots with the camera and quickly sneak away off of the shore. Jumped into the truck, wrooom, rear wheels scrabbled in the sand, ooops. A bit less throttle, but too late. Rear wheels went deeper and deeper .... then a man walked by, he was looking a bit wrathful / surprised. I probably like a caught little boy. But hey, that was a colleague from work !! I quick explained my situation, he just: ohooohhh. Now to make it short. He rushed to his home, came back with his car and a rope. (Still nobody else came to the shore - biiig trouble, if the sheriff or a conservationist would have appeared). Hooked in the rope and towed me out of my awkward situation. Yesss !!! I asked him what he wants to get, but he did refuse ... "hmm, maybe a ride in the PT !?" he said. So yes, I gladly will take him to a tour along the lake !!! So here some adventure pics I shot, although they are certainly not perfect: Was it worth it ? For me YESSS !
  9. 4 points
    Managed to get the engine in this weekend. Most of the ancillaries fitted too. Started after a couple of cranks which was a result. Need to sort the timing out etc., but at least it runs!
  10. 4 points

    Show your tools.

    Just picked up these from the local community college auto department. They replaced them with Chinese tools from harbor freight 🤔 They are not allowed to sell them and can only scrap or give away. I know someone there and he let me have them. Three phase grinder and 55 ton press. Grinder has 3 new wheels, 2" wide 12" diameter. It will take 30 years to wear them out! Greg
  11. 3 points
    Finished up on installing new hard and soft brakelines, brake pistons and new shoes. Time to move onto the next job, installed the motor today, now with some minor basic wiring I can see if I can get the engine to run next weekend....
  12. 3 points

    1948 dodge pilot house dually!

    I just got my 1948 dodge pilot house! I have a few questions! It has the 251 flathead in it where is the best place to get parts for it! I have seen tons of parts for the 230 but not the 251! Also I was wondering if there is a company that makes a wheel that looks like the original trying to get away from the old ring style wheel but trying to keep it looking original! Thanks for any help!!!!
  13. 3 points

    New member with a question

    Hey everybody. I recently acquired a 1948 P15 and am really enjoying it. It's a driver with alot of great qualities including a great interior and exterior. I currently addressing a few little details prior to the local car show season startup. I've had an issue with the headlights and taillights not working so after disassembling the switch and cleaning it the lights now work. with the exception of the front left signal now flashes slowly and in unison with the right front signal. I'm sure I'll straighten that out tho. My question is regarding the toggle switch under the dash near the radio. There is no response at all when the switch is flicked. Also, there is a slide switch on the driver's door pillar between both doors that also does nothing when operated. I've searched and come to believe that the dash switch is tied to the dash lights but not too sure of the details on haw or is supposed to work. and the slide switch is a mystery to me. there is no cab light visible otherwise I would think it was for that. I'm sure everybody on this site is aware of these switches and their purpose lol but I'm in the "dark" lol. I'm thoroughly enjoying the wealth of information presented on this forum and thank the mods for opening the door for me! I've attached a pic of my car.
  14. 3 points
    John Reddie

    rebuilt engines from the past

    I saw this ad and it brought fond memories from the '50's. I remember that a place in Boston used to advertise that for $188.00, one could drop their car off in the morning and at day's end, drive home with a completely rebuilt exchanged engine. Ford, Plymouth and Chevrolet were listed but I'm sure that other makes could be done as well. I also recall a young man that attended the school that I did had a rebuilt engine in his '47 Plymouth that was purchased from Sears. I remember that we made less money back then and these prices would be expensive for many families but I find it interesting to look back just the same. John R
  15. 3 points
    Frank Elder

    Show your tools.

    I have a Simpson Analog multimeter somewhere in the garage, I won't tell you where it came from but if you yell "Attention on Deck!" it'll pop right up.....lol.
  16. 3 points
    Brent B3B

    Heater Control Valve

    Glenn, in my opinion, I think in the parts book there is two different part numbers for that valve. only about six of us would look at the one you have and question it and out of that six, only one of us would really care, if it is correct or not. if you don't keep that valve PM me, cause I wont care what the other five think (this is not a solicitation of parts or classified add outside the proper avenue)
  17. 3 points
    My fuel pump packed it. Pin that holds lever will not stay in and do not want to mouse it. Anyone know where I could get a new one?? It must have a bolt or threads on top to bolt to bottom of heat shield. Also lever pin must be held by clip or other means. I filled out contact for DCM Classics twice now amd not hearing back. Worrisome.... Here is pic of truck at work for kicks. By the way NAPA does not sell these any more. Thanks, Duffy
  18. 3 points
    get a rebuilt kit from then and now and specify you want the pin with the C clips on it
  19. 3 points

    Front Bumper Guard Question

    Two grille guards were the option for 1951-53 instead of three as used on the 1948-50 trucks. $4.44 was the cost for both in January of 1952.
  20. 3 points

    Rear ended not turning .

    Lots of people do that. But, it is in direct contrast to the shop manuals' procedure. Clean and dry with nothing to promote ease of movement. The tight fit is to retard rotation. The lube puts all the load on the key instead of the taper fit.
  21. 3 points
    Frank Elder

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    Hey that truck has Paultina.......
  22. 3 points
    Brent B3B

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    Hey I have a blue (ish) truck 😄
  23. 3 points
    Took a drive over to Scottsdale for the afternoon. Car is running fine... Needing shocks though...
  24. 3 points
    Somebody in Chicago is using this '50 year-round. My daughter took this picture last night!!
  25. 3 points
    I am using a by-pass spin on oil filter on my 230 and did not loose any oil pressure were a full flow set up would. parts used were a Wix by pass filter head 24755 ( e bay) an a Fram PB50 by pass filter.


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